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Adam C

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Posts posted by Adam C

  1. If it worked well when you gripped them down, then you do not need to worry about changing the swing weight. Gripping down vs. cutting down will give you the same SW to within 1 point. Too many people put too much emphasis on SW and they're being some perfect swing weight. If they don't feel too light when you gripped down, they won't be too light if you cut them down.

    As far as value goes, yes cutting them down an inch will lower the value some if you tried to sell them as you have reduced the number of potential buyers, but the fact is that golf clubs lose value so quickly, the difference will be minimal unless you are talking current or 1 model previous clubs.

  2. On 7/18/2019 at 11:12 AM, Howard Jones said:

    We have the same relation ship between a face angle thats 1* open or closed to path as we have for 1* up or 1* flat for lie angles, they cause the same tilt on the spin axis, on this case as roll. 
    At 8 yards (24 feets), we dont hit the cup at all if lie is more than 1* off, (and the cup is 4.25") so at 4* off and 30 feets, way outside the cup, just try it yourself. If lie angle on putters was no more important than that we would all play 72* or what ever they deliver as "standard"


    Howard, that's not accurate. The influence of lie angle diminishes as we decrease the loft towards 0. A one degree up or flat lie will not equate to anything close to a 1 degree face angle change. Unless I missed it, I did not see anything in the link specifically about this?

  3. You probably got them extremely cheap b/c first, there aren't many people looking for clubs that old and second, with those specs you only have 1/100 of 1% of golfers who would fit into that club. Probably less than that. All that being said, it's pretty simple to figure out if the lie angle is an issue for you with a ball line check.

    If you have not done it, get a dry erase marker or sharpie works okay. Draw a straight line on the ball about an inch long. Position the ball with the line on the back of the ball, perpendicular to the ground. Make sure you are on a flat lie (very important!) Hit the ball and see where the line mark on the club face points. If it's up and down on the face, the lie angle is good, if it's at an angle, you might need an adjustment. Ideally you should go through the set and check them all but at the very least I would check the short irons.

  4. 1 hour ago, ncates00 said:

    lamkin full cord.  They tear your hands/glove up, but haven't found a better combo for my VERY sweaty hands in TN humidity than those grips and FJ rain grip gloves.

    Agree. Crossline full cord. Closest thing to wrapping sandpaper around your shafts, but those suckers aren't going anywhere. You can dunk those grips in a bucket and go hit balls with them.

    That being said, I might try some Royal Grip cords next as they seem to have good reviews and cost what the Lamkins did 15 years ago.

  5. Oops. I was thinking of a previous Cleveland shaft so my weight was wrong. Just go with a 55 gram shaft. I don't want to say that torque isn't important, but actually yes, it's not important. Basically every other spec of a shaft is more important than torque. Pick a shaft based on weight, balance, bend profile (aka trajectory), flex, and just go with whatever torque is on that shaft. The shaft companies match torque up with other specs so you don't have to worry about it.

  6. You can still find those shafts around, although I would guess you were hitting the TaylorMade TP version of the shaft. I know they made an A,B, and C versions. I found the B version 50gm R flex on Diamond Tour Golf website. A and B were similar except the B is counterbalanced. C was a different animal all together. If you can't find the A, the B should work, just be aware that the swing weight might drop if you don't extend the playing length or add some head weight. Honestly I believe the most important aspect of a shaft is the weight, so if you can't find the exact one you want, start looking at others with similar weights first, then move on to other specs.

  7. 21 hours ago, Kskelly said:

    Is this what you mean 

    is this what you mean by Taper Tip? It has the groves tapered down the shaft? I’ve attached an image. 

    Thanks for the replies ! 


    Like F2YGolf said, you can't really see the taper unless you hold a .355 next to a .370 and look at the very tip. It's just something you have to measure or you just know like here, Mizuno alway use .355 taper. What you're referring to is the stepping on the shaft. Basically how the shaft maker reduces the diameter from the butt to the tip. Each shaft will have slightly different step patterns (the spacing, the number of steps) and some shafts will have no steps (like a Project X shaft). This helps determine how the shaft bends and feels.

  8. That's an aftermarket Matrix shaft. 85 is actually not the weight. That is the flex designation on these shafts. I think these shafts sold pretty poorly, and that numbering system probably didn't help. 85 is basically the swing speed recommendation for that shaft. They go from 75 up to 115 which equals light up to XX flex. So 85 would be the R flex. They do come in different weights and that number should be printed somewhere on the main graphics section in a small font.

  9. Are you sure they didn't say soft step? That would make more sense to me at least. What the seller told you was right, the shafts have not been tipped b/c they are taper tip meaning you can not tip (aka cut) them. Soft stepping refers to taking the shaft that is pre designed to fit into say the 6 iron, and instead install it in the 7 iron, and so on through the set. This gives you slightly softer and higher launch compared to the standard install.

    I would try them and see what you think of the shafts. Everything they told you is more or less correct. I don't like when shaft companies try to say they have high launch/low spin shafts. Spin and launch go hand in hand, if you have higher launch, you will have higher spin. That's just how golf balls work. You could always pull the shafts and soft step them after, would just have to butt trim them down after to get the length back to where you want it. Would only do that however if you felt you wanted a bit more height.

    11 minutes ago, Vinsk said:

    @Adam C is your guy. Sorry Adam....I send you a lot of referrals lol.

    No problem. I appreciate the vote of confidence. 

  10. The uniflex Callaway shaft was basically a TT Lite. True Temper 115-118 gram, mid to high launch. I would be looking at shafts that are mid-high launch R flex. Weight wise probably figure 60g driver, 70g 3 wood, 85g hybrids give or take.

    Are you looking at re-shafting your current woods and hybrids, or buying new? Most of the stock shaft offerings for new clubs will fall pretty close to these basic specs if you pick out the right weight. If you are re-shafting, I can try and focus you on some options but would need to know some basic fitting info. Club speed, typical miss, ball flight, price point.

  11. Simple issue, difficult fix. You lose your leg to spine angle in your downswing. You can see it very simply in the video if you put your cursor arrow right on your butt at the far left edge. Run the video with the cursor there and watch what happens going into impact and after. All of a sudden there is a large space between the cursor and your butt or left hip if you move all the way to the finish. Compare that to any PGA pro down the line swing video and you will see they never move their butt off that initial spot and finish with the left hip covering that same spot. They keep that spine angle through the entire movement and that is so important for consistency.

    Practice leaning with your butt just up against the back of a chair, or stool, or your golf bag if you have a stand bag and work on swinging and hitting shots while making continuous contact with that surface. Don't let the hips thrust towards the ball. Or practice without a club with your butt against a wall, and make half practice swings again keeping contact with the wall. Keep taking video, so you can monitor progress.

    It's a good looking swing, get this fixed and look out.

  12. You have two issues that I would address, one lower body and one upper body. 

    I would really focus on your knees first. Right now you can see your left knee move forward while your back knee straightens and basically locks at the start of your swing. Your weight moves forward at the start of your swing and ends up moving backwards through your downswing aka reverse pivot. I would focus on taking that initial knee bend you have in your set up, and work on keeping that same knee flex through the entire swing. Never lock your knees. From there, you should be able to hopefully move your weight back a little at the start and forward on the downswing.

    The upper body issue I see isn't a chicken wing, it's a very early release, some would call a cast. The club head has moved past your hands a good 10 inches behind the ball. This will lead to all kinds of fat and thin shots, high ball flight, and a big loss of distance. I would start with working on your chipping. I would be willing to bet that this issue is also present in your chipping movement. Really try practicing hitting your chips where the club head never passes the hands. Keep that left wrist firm and don't let it break down. Once you can do that, try and do the same with a longer pitching movement. Just half swing, but again keep your hands in front of the club head through the entire swing.

    Only do this up to a half swing. After that, hopefully the feel will stay with you into your fuller swings. Anything longer than a half swing will require letting the club head eventually move in front of the hands, so you don't hurt yourself, but if you focus on leading with the hands through impact on the shorter swings, it should make the longer swings easier to apply the same idea to.

  13. Those TA3s were sweet. However,

    1. They are not forgiving, move forgiving then the TA1s, but still need to bring a swing to use them.

    2. They are almost 20 years old now, so I wouldn't pay more than $50 for the set with new grips.

    If you are looking for Cleveland, would want to find a set of TA5s or TA7s for more forgiveness. But there are plenty of forgiving irons out there that are newer, more forgiving, and still relatively cheap.

  14. 33 minutes ago, JoshSang14 said:

    This actually makes a lot of sense. I rarely see videos of my swing (this was my first time videoing myself in the past year), but now that I look at it more I definitely see where I'm moving my hips towards the ball on the downswing (thereby changing my leg to spine angle). Just tried a few practice swings in the apartment, and it feels so much different to keep the hips back; really frees up the arms to swing naturally instead of being stuck at the right hip. 

    I'll work on that and potentially post a follow up vid. Thanks for the feedback! 

    It's hard to fix. I know because I fight it also with my longer clubs but it makes a huge difference in my consistency when that angle is maintained.

  15. You're losing your angle between your upper leg and your lower spine. Your hips are moving in towards the ball through the impact zone which does two bad things. Changes your spine angle and basically forces you to change your swing path to the left of target. Result, slice, or high slice, or straight pull, or pull hook, all depending on how you get your hands to the ball at impact. Second it closes any space you had for your hands to move past your hips. This can quickly result in flippy hand motion which is very hard to time correctly.

    Work on maintaining that posture at set up through impact. Hit some balls leaning back against your golf bag if it has a stand, or a chair back, or even just practice swing without a club with your back side against a wall. Keep your butt in contact with that surface, whatever it is. On the through swing the contact point will move from your butt to your left hip as you turn through, but again alway keep contact. Fix that and you will be way more consistent.

  16. 17 minutes ago, iacas said:

    Which, of course, like many others is not original either.

    I'm not a Scotty Cameron kinda guy. Get fit for a putter and use that one. 😄

    But, yeah, I have a Bullseye Cameron. And I like it quite a bit.

    I have that one, too, with the leather head cover and the leather wrap grip. The American Classic III Blade, I believe.

    That's her. I changed the grip. I know, I know, to a Lamkin Crossline. Simple lines are always best in my book. Less distractions the better.

  17. 5 minutes ago, boogielicious said:

    I think many high handicap players have more issue with fat and thin than left/right of center hits. In that case, more bounce would be more forgiving. Left/right misses are more common on longer clubs with full swings than wedges with partial and short game swings, aren't they?

    Agree. Getting the ball up in the air and flying the right distance is what most higher handicappers would be happy with. More bounce and a fuller sole.

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