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Adam C

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Posts posted by Adam C


  1. Go ahead and check your lie angles yourself and then circle back around to what you are doing in your swing. This will at least give you the confidence that your clubs are correct.

    Use a sharpie test and check your lie angles.

    Draw a line on the ball about an inch long with a sharpie or dry erase marker. Set the ball on the ground with the line perpendicular to the ground with it pointing at your club face (ie away from your target). Hit a couple balls this way with each club and take note where the line imprint is pointing on the club's face. Straight up and down means lie is good. If it's at an angle then you need to adjust your lie angle.

    Remember when you do this make sure you are hitting on flat turf or the results are junk. Also I like to hit off a mat versus turf as the turf can rub the marker line off the face.

    It's easier said than done but try not to worry about how the club sits at set up, only worry about impact. 

    FYI, the main reason for the change in lie angle during the swing has less to do with the toe droop effect and more to do with your hands raising at impact. The centrifugal force pulls the club head and therefore your hands away from your body changing the necessary lie angle. My guess as to what you are experiencing is you are raising your hands at set up to level the club head lie, but you are also unknowingly standing further away from the ball when you do. Once you get to impact your body moves into it's natural impact position which is now further away from the ball, leading to toe and thin hits.


  2. 2 hours ago, KJK said:

    Thanks for the explanation, I wouldn't mind removing the fitting adapters and replacing them with something compatible for regular use, I'd just be hesitant to compromise the shaft in the process, but I suppose I have nothing to lose, might give this a try.

    The steel shafts are simple to pull, can just heat them and pull off the adapters with some pliers. The graphite shafts you would want to use a shaft puller to remove the shaft in a straight line if you were planning to use them again.


  3. Selling fitting iron shafts will be basically useless since they are all 6 iron shafts I am guessing. Unless you have a random person who needs to match up a 6 iron shaft and would then be okay with removing the adapter for reshaft. Lot of work for a $20-$40 shaft.

    If you have some driver fitting shafts, and remove the fitting adapters, then you can actually get some morey for them.


  4. I would start by bending a couple of your irons if you want to go down this road and see what the result look like. Those clubs should not have any issues bending a couple degrees down and need be back to spec if you don't like them.

    The lower lofts will usually only be an issue in the longer irons where you might see more hook or slice spin. The bounce you will just have to try and see if it causes any issues with your AoA.


  5. 5 hours ago, cnl390 said:

    I have my G410 Plus weight set to the Draw position, but still struggle with a slice.  Would it help if I went to a heavier weight?.

     

    There are certain golfers who may see a difference in path from changes in the swing weight, or total weight of a club. Sometimes a lighter or heavier club may help the golfer move the club into the correct position.

    If you have the heavier weights, I say give it a try. No loss if it doesn't work.


  6. Just FYI, there are still reputable dealers on Ebay but you have to do your homework. Be able to track a seller back to a source is key, do internet searches of the seller, and check what they have been selling previously. Again you can find legit dealers through OEM sites, even some Ebay based ones will be on there.

    Couple simple rules for spotting fakes and bad dealers:

    Be wary of any seller with either too few reviews, or many reviews but only over a short time.

    Anything coming directly from oversees is suspect.

    Bad grammer. Not always the case but if the seller can't put together simple sentences might want to stay away.

    Any post showing a generic image of an item and not the specific one mentioned, I think is super shady.

    Finally, good old "If it seems too good to be true...

     

    If you think you bought a fake follow your ears and nose. Fakes usually will sound different, although with things like putters it can be hard to tell. And if the club has a chemical smell usually coming from grip, good chance it's fake.

     


  7. You are probably low on the out the door price you could quickly end up with if you buy from them. Figure $125 for the fitting, that may or may not be credited back to the purchase price based on the fitting company. Driver head will be $450-$550. Shafts will probably be in the $300-$450 range as to what they recommend. Also they will tack on a $30 shaft PUREing charge and another $10 for the grip often.

    I have heard many people walk out with a $900 driver recommendation.

    My advise, go get fit, get the info for what seemed to be working well for you. Don't just look for one perfect shaft, look for shaft traits that seem to work with your swing. Most important element of a shaft is the weight, followed by balance point. After that shaft consistency, then bend profile. At the very bottom is torque.

    Find the right shaft weight and you are most of the way there. Then you can take those specs, along with the head type and related specs and go a few different ways. You can order the club new and find a stock or upgrade option that matches well against your fitting results. Or you can buy the head and shaft separately on eBay or a good golf forum.

    If you really feel the need to spend $900, to have a custom built driver then go ahead, in the end it's your money. Personally I don't think there is a golf club on the planet worth that. 


  8. I will go ahead and answer your question you are asking. The X line is different in 3 ways from the standard Rogue, all of which are designed purely to up the distance. First, the X line is physically longer by 1/4 inch over the Rogue. Figure the standard Rogue is also a bit long (talking static length here) to start with so the X could be considered 1/2 inch over standard. Second, the lofts are around 3 degrees stronger than the Rogue line (and the Rogue line is pretty strong to begin with). Third, the X line is 3 points lighter on the swing weight scale. Now as far as I can recall the shaft options are the same for both, so that means that the X line has a much lighter headweight.

    The first two differences probably won't make any difference as to which you like more, but the SW difference would be the one I would be most concerned with. With your current game as you described it, I would think the light weight shouldn't bother you. The other consideration is if the club does end up feeling light, you can always add some lead tape to the head to increase that feel. You can't however go the other way if it's too heavy in the case of the standard Rogues.


  9. 1 hour ago, Lewis55555 said:

    Thanks for the advice. I think I'll change the ferrule as well. It seams like a bad epoxy job to be honest. 

    Is it worth getting some golf shaft epoxy or just some strong 24 hour set resin epoxy

    I just watched one of you YouTube tutorials about ferrules and doesn't seam too hard. 

    I have everything apart from epoxy and ferrules.

    Any recommendations on epoxy. I'm from the UK so may be different brands here.

    3M brand is a good one for epoxy. The DP420 two part is used by many OEMs. When it comes down to it, most 2 part epoxies will work as long as they have a lap/shear strength of 2500-4000 psi.


  10. 21 minutes ago, Release said:

     

    It matters not whether it's a .355 or the ,370 advertised ferrule.  The tapered section of a .355 shaft is but about 5/8" down the very end of the tip of the shaft , all shafts measure at .370 just above the ferrule.  

    This is not true. You can not use a .355 ferrule on a .370 tip shaft. I will not fit. These are .370 irons, so you will need the matching size ferrule. You can go the other way and use a .370 ferrule on a .355 shaft, and I often do, but not the other way.


  11. You are going to need .370 tip ferrules, that is the inside diameter. As far as outside diameter, you need to get a caliper and measure the outside diameter of the hosel to see what you need. Ideally you would buy ferrules that have a slightly larger OD than the hosel so you could turn them down, however that can be intimidating to many new club builders. If you don't want to mess with it at all, you can get ferrules that are slightly smaller OD than the hosel and not have to do anything with them. Club builders will shake their heads at this but it works and still looks okay when you're all done.

    Shameless self promotion. If you look up Mobile Clubmaker on Youtube, I have a series of videos on club making including ones specifically on installing and turning down ferrules if you want to do it the professional way. Best of luck.


  12. 26 minutes ago, Bonvivant said:

    Offset is on my mind too. I am not a fan. Are there certain makes that have let's say mid thickness top lines but next to no offset. Great points in the other post. Just something im going to have to get used to

    I am playing a set of Mizuno MP-18 MMCs, and really like them. They have a thin cavity, thin top line, and minimal offset. The SC version would also work. New MP-20s would be similar.

    Also if you don't mind a bit thicker top, something like the Callaway Rogue Pros are smaller headed with very little offset. 

    Again every company makes a small headed cavity back at this point. 

    Might also want to check out some of the component options. Maltby has some heads that would fit the bill if you don't care about what name is stamped on your irons.


  13. It's really just a gimmick. The reason why most wedges don't have grooves all over the face is because you don't make contact with the face in those areas. If you are, then you have bigger issues than a lack of spin and you should probably be looking at something more forgiving like Cleveland CBX. I know if you open the face and take a full swing you may miss out on the high toe more often, but I don't think I have ever made contact on those parts of the face. This is just TaylorMade and Callaway trying to steal a little more market share from Titleist Vokeys.


  14. I am just going to answer the question's you are asking, and not getting into the fitting discussion. The shaft difference in terms of length between mens and women's is 1 inch. That being said, manufacturers have made the "standard" driver so long that you would easily be able to use the women's length at 5'10" regardless of flex. I am 6ft and use a 44.5 driver (which in this case would be standard women's length). The senior flex shaft will be slightly stiffer, but if you can hit one, you can usually hit the other. Only caveat is if you always miss with a slice or have issues with launch height, a softer shaft can help.

    The stiffer shaft will be heavier in total weight by a few grams. The swing weight will also be heavier with the senior club.

    I would say figure out how hard you swing the club and if your miss is as described above, to determine the flex. However if you do go with the senior club, I would play it at 44.5, not at 45.5 length. A 45.5 driver rarely does you any favors.


  15. Just looked at the specs of the TS1, and it is exceptionally light. 175g head (compared to 197g average), 45g shaft, and 30g grip. So I was mistaken in that it is lighter than the stock options from other companies. You can get to those numbers with other OEMs but it may require an upgrade charge somewhere. That being said, that is super light and I don't know how the swing weight can't be in the mid C range. You definitely would want to hit a club like that before buying. It may work for you but you also might hate it.

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