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Everything posted by ChetlovesMer

  1. Here you go. You can make your own Triple-Track Ball:
  2. @bwdial Nice one. Definitely not apocalyptic
  3. If @xrayvizhen is looking for spiked shoes then in my mind there is no question. He should buy Eccos. Ideally, one of the cage varieties. They pretty much last forever and a day. I've had good luck with Under Armour. I've had good luck with Nikes and with Footjoys. I've also had less than great experiences with those as well. The only two brands I seem to ALWAYS be satisfied with is Ecco and TRUE. If you want a SPIKED shoe, that will be comfortable and last a long time Ecco Cage shoes are a can't miss.
  4. I have to admit, I've been drinking the TRUE Linkswear cool-aid as well. I used to go with Eccos almost exclusively. But after I bought my first pair of TRUE Linkswear, I was sold. Now they are all I wear as well. My favorite for golf are the originals (or any of the ones that have the originals' spike pattern.) Here's my opinion:
  5. That top one (where the bottom folded under), that doesn't seem right. To my eye (admittedly I'm no expert). It looks like it was hit in the bottom not caved in from the face. Are you sure it wasn't damaged in your bag maybe? Do you keep a headcover on it? Perhaps it banged hard down onto the blade or toe of an iron. Maybe in your trunk?
  6. Why are all these stories of the future always so bleak? Doesn't anyone believe the world will be better in 2067?
  7. There are actually quite a few wooden putter heads out there. My guess is most of them have been built by folks who were both woodworkers AND golfers themselves. I know I've made a couple and most everyone in the woodworking group I used to belong to has built at least one. You can obviously use them on the golf course, but here's the problem. You may spend between 20 and 100 man-hours building a gorgeous putter. Very few of us want to take that out on the course where it's likely to get nicked, dinged, or at best dirty. Even with a headcover on it, the majority of us woodworkers made the decision to give them away as gifts or put them on display in our offices that sort of thing. I haven't built one in a long time. I'll see if I can dig up some photos of any of the ones I've built. In the meantime here's some stuff to watch. This guy went as far as even making the shaft. We always just bought a putter shaft from Golfworks or something like that. Here's kind of entry level type of build your own putter. Okay, last one. This is a commercial one. There really are a ton of these out there if you start looking for them. I still suggest building your own, because it's fun and why not?
  8. I'm in. I'll have to get data here in the next couple of days to see where I am in terms of speed right now. So, for now I put TBD on the starting speed. I will fill it in later.
  9. Nice work! Color me impressed.
  10. I like Bryson most of the time. I like his response here.
  11. Okay, I was just trying to spare us all the slideshow. But, I'll be sure to include the link in the future.
  12. So, that's really a thing? Never even heard of it.
  13. Yeah, I can see that. And you very well may be right. That's why this can be a difficult thing to do, especially with photos over the web. To my eye I thought I saw some almost greenish tint buried under that stain. That is very much a characteristic of birch. Birch is often used to imitate a lot of other woods. It's pours are almost as tight as maple, its patterns can be as pronounced as mahogany. It can do a good job blending in a lot of places for a ton less money. The one thing it can not do is imitate the hardness of maple or mahogany. @saevel25 could conceivably do a hardness test on it. Basically a ball bearing is pressed into the wood at a certain pressure and then based on the depth it sinks you'd look that up on a Janka scale. Hard Maple is about 1 and 1/2 times harder than birch. Mahogany is about 2 -1/2 times harder. The other thing about birch is as the stain starts to wear often the green tint that is so often running though the wood will start to show. It won't be consistent many strands will have more green than others. This can be reduced or eliminated with dye before staining. A lot of folks won't go that extra mile. Having said that, I really think we are looking a pretty custom job here. These do not look like any factory built drawers I've ever seen. So, in reality its very hard to say what the craftsman did here. So again, if you held a gun to my head I'd guess birch. But if you told me it turned out to be maple (especially soft maple, aka fast growing maple), mahogany, or possibly even a nut tree like pecan, I'd have to believe it. I had to study a lot of cabinetry to make my cover story believable.
  14. I don't think you are being OCD. I think its a legit question and I'd like to know the answer.
  15. Most woodworkers will dye maple not stain it. Maple has notoriously tight pores. Stain tends to just sit on top of it, rather than soak in. Factory made maple doors are commonly sprayed with stain. A lot of times you can then scrap stain off maple, even with your thumbnail. Okay, so those drawers are 9 layer plywood drawer boxes. Which probably means not Amish. In my experience the Amish like solid wood drawer boxes. Secondly their is no joinery on the corners of the drawer boxes. The Amish would most like use a box joint or dovetail joint (Not dovetails, but a dovetail joint. Dovetails would only be appropriate with hardwood boxes) with plywood drawer boxes I would have definitely done a drawer joint. I believe the Amish would have also. It's quick and it would last forever. I don't see any metal fasteners holding the drawer boxes together. I don't see any pegs. I don't see any the hint of spline. So, my guess is probably biscuit jointed. (Again, biscuit joinery is almost never used by the Amish) It is possible that there just isn't any joinery. It could be simply glued. But I think that's unlikely. 9 layer plywood is very high quality and would be used because it's extremely stable. (Read that as it doesn't move when the weather changes. Expanding and contracting wood is why sometimes drawers or doors stick in the summer, but not the winter.) A cabinet shop using that type of wood for a drawer box would be doing so because they want the drawer to outlast you and me. I would think they would have done some form of joinery otherwise one day the drawer front will literally be pulled off. With joinery it will last forever. That's another reason I'm guessing biscuit joints. Anyway, the good news is that a lot of really high quality custom guys do use plywood drawer boxes. (For the reasons mentioned above.) I've used it a ton for anything you want to be very functional. But with no visible joinery I gotta believe it's biscuit jointed. Otherwise there must be some fasteners I just can't see. BTW - Biscuit joinery was really common in the 80's and 90's. It's still used heavily today, but only for custom guys building on site. It's far too easy to set up a joinery station in a cabinet shop and make drawers that way. Is there a chance these cabinets were done in the 80's-90's? Can you also share a picture of the face frame between the hinge side of two cabinet doors?
  16. If you get a chance open a drawer and take a picture of the area where the drawer box meets the drawer front. You can learn a lot about a cabinet from looking at that area. Also, do you know what year they were installed?
  17. This is really good advice. As a long time woodworker and a guy who formerly owned his own custom cabinet business I can tell you I'm not sure. Here's why. Very often guys like me take cheaper woods and make them look like more premium wood. The best example I can think of is if you give me a pile of Birch, I can build you cabinets and tell you that they are Mahogany and you will never know that they aren't. Obviously nobody would ever confuse Maple with Oak or Pine with Ebony. But those are the far ends of the spectrum. A lot of cabinet grade lumber can be made to look very similar. Here are some tips. 1 - Very often non-custom, but still high quality cabinets have a spec sticker on the bottom side of a drawer. Check for that first. If you find the spec or even the maker/product code, BOOM! You're done. BTW - some manufactures put the sticker on the back of the drawer. 2 - Check your sink base cabinet for a KCMA label. 3 - Check the bottom of the wall cabinets or on an inside panel in the sink base cabinet. A lot of time the brand of the cabinet is marked there. Sometimes the color, door style, and construction of the cabinet will be there too. 4 - If you end up getting just the brand name, you can get their catalog (either online or a real one) and try to match yours up. That's hit or miss, because a lot of times the maker will do just what I said and make a birch cabinet that looks like a mahogany or something of that ilk. But you may be able to figure it out. 5 - If they are truly custom you will be able to tell because all of the faceplates between two cabinets will be seamless. Meaning the faceplates were put on after the cabinet boxes were installed. If your cabinets have those little lines between the doors or between the drawers than those cabinets were built in a factory or possibly a shop and installed, rather than boxes being custom built and facepates made on site. 6 - If your cabinets are truly custom. Firstly, congratulations that's mighty rare. Secondly, you will have to contact the builder to find out who did the work. Unless they were like me and stamped (literally) their name and logo on the bottom of every drawer. 7 - If none of that works. You may have to cut into a piece. Fresh cut wood is far easier to identify. If you find this stamped on the bottom of the drawers, then I made them.
  18. Interesting: "You can be the world’s best putter, but if it’s a putt for bogey or par on every hole… good luck. " and "more games to play with putting and the short game, too, which makes it a bit easier for golfers to practice them." Controversial: Nothing.
  19. Oak has very open pours. Imagine millions of soda straws glued together and then sliced diagonally. I can't tell from your photos. Look at the wood closely and at an angle. Like this: If it's oak, you'll see the open pours.
  20. I'm not sure how hard it would be to actually stop a golf ball coming at you. But it sure doesn't LOOK that hard. It looks as if the goalie should have easily made the save.
  21. Okay so Golf Digest published the 15 signs you watch too much golf on TV. I giggled just a bit because I may be guilty of one or two of these. I thought I'd post them here and maybe if you all have additional signs you watch too much golf on TV you could add them. For example, my sister has literally taken the Wednesday, Thursday and Friday of Masters Week off work for a Staycation. Anyhow, for your reading pleasure. Here are Golf Digest's 15 Signs You Watch Too Much Golf On TV. 1) You greet everyone by saying, “Hello, friends.” Even if they aren’t your actual friends. Even if it’s just one friend. 2) You can still rattle off every location where Golf Channel’s “Big Break” has ever been filmed. 3) You often start whispering like Roger Maltbie for no reason. 4) You know the difference between “Victory Red,” “Gym Red” and every other shade of Tiger Woods Sunday red. 5) You get all your Christmas gift ideas from golf informercials. 6) You have trained yourself to plan bathroom breaks around those obligatory CEO interviews. 7) Your DVR is full of European Tour reruns. 😎 You often forget to shower during weeks of major championships. 9) You plan your vacations to fall during weaker-field events. 10) When you check into a hotel, your first question is, “What channel is the Golf Channel?” 11) You frequently find yourself wondering, “What would Sir Nick think?” about major life decisions. 12) You have nightmares about bad weather—affecting that week’s PGA Tour event. 13) You are better at remembering the names of tour caddies than your in-laws. 14) You have trouble reading stop signs, but you can tell immediately what iron a player pulls from his bag. 15) You miss Johnny Miller in the booth more than you miss your own parents.
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