• Announcements

    • iacas

      Visit FlagstickRule.com   03/13/2017

      Visit the site flagstickrule.com to read about and sign a petition for the USGA/R&A regarding the one terrible rule in the proposed "modernized" rules for 2019.

WUTiger

Supporter
  • Content count

    6,720
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

WUTiger last won the day on November 13 2016

WUTiger had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

337 First-Ballot Hall of Famer

3 Followers

About WUTiger

  • Rank
    Fine-tuning the draw
  • Birthday 11/02/1950

Personal Information

  • Your Location
    St. Louis area

Your Golf Game

  • Handicap Index
    25.4
  • Handedness
    Righty

Recent Profile Visitors

4,178 profile views
  1. I've played a 4W + 7W + 4H for four years. I've changed up a little - I have a Callaway 815 Alpha, set to 15* and 19* (more 3W + 5W), but I may end up setting them to 16* and 20* for reliability (closer to 4W, 7W). I have the Alpha 20-gram sole weight set at the back of the sole, so I get really good launch from them. One of the local pros carries a 5W with a 4W-length shaft for his sole FW. One of our TST guys, @Mr. Desmond, has a 4W, 7W, 9W + two hybrids. It just depends on what works. I got a basic online Ping fitting, and the recommended mix was an 18* 5W, a 17* 2H (go figure...) and a 22* 4H. The key to a FW that works is getting one that fits your game. If you have medium swing speed and get a FW with a head for "low, boring trajectory," you may have trouble getting a high enough launch. (The low-launch heads tend to be paired - stock - with more robust shafts). A wood head that tends toward low profile can also help with launch. That said, I played with an athletic 20-something last season who carried a driver, a 2H and 4H, and no FW. Playing from the 6,700-yd. tees, he had the distance to get home in two on two of four Par 5 holes with his hybrids. (One shot he landed, the other he pulled pin high into the hillside to left of the green.) Again, go with what works. Players having long-term trouble with FWs should go to a couple of demo days, try out lots of FWs and take notes, and then get fittings on a couple of finalists. Between adjustability and dozens of shafts available for no upcharge, there's a lot of variety on FWs.
  2. Others have hinted at this, so I'll be direct: What do you hope to get out of your new irons? The ISI.K ranked on the line between GI/SGI (using Golf Digest Hot List categories). If the K model has stiff shafts and you're losing yardage, or not getting good launch, a move to the Ping G model might help. I got repeated hits with the G at different demo days, and despite a larger head really pops the ball out of the rough with authority. I would suggest that the G is a seminal club - a distinctive and versatile model among the Ping offerings. Again, what do you hope to get out of new irons?
  3. Here's my plan: This is pure fantasy, so I'll do a Capt. Kirk, skirt the Kobayashi Maru, break the rules and play in six! March 23-26 Puerto Rico Open (pre-season) June 8-11 FedEx St. Jude's Classic (Al Geiberger shot first ever PGA tour round of 59 here in 1977) June 22-24 Traveler's Champ (in CT, sweaters in June, may keep away faint-hearted) July 13-16 John Deere Classic (been as fan - it's friendly) July 20-23 Barbasol Championship (superstars at The Open) July 27-30 RBC Canadian Open (Canada is cool - weather and people!) I would have a week off between the June events to reload, and then play three straight in July. I'm 66, so playing five straight weeks probably isn't a good idea. If I didn't win and get more exemptions, I could still work as a fill-in caddie late in the season. Sponsorships: Probably go with Callaway, as long as I could keep the Slotline putter. Clothing? I'd just check with my playing partners to make sure we had on different colored shirts to cut down on confusion for TV fans.
  4. A friend of mine from high school played college golf, and was Missouri Valley Player of Year before he graduated. I've kept up with him, and he still shoots under par on occasion. He played some mini-tour, and Dylan Dethier's story brings to mind a lot of things my classmate said about the experience. * He was really good, but others were better. * No-name guys from Texas and Florida often beat more-famous Northerners. * A couple of bad shots can tank your week. * It takes a lot of money just to show up and play the mini-tour. * You can't dabble at it and make a go. You're either in or you're not. A college coach I know had a shot at the higher level. He played in the old PGA Q-school back in the 1990s and needed pars on the final-day 17th and 18th to get his card. He bogied both of them, and walked away from his tour bid. There's no margin for error, he said.
  5. We should probably talk to @Club Rat on this. Do we want the Archland TST season opener east (Stonewolf) or west (WingHaven)?
  6. Division III schools have no athletic scholarships for students. They do have academic scholarships, and varying forms of grant in aid, which all students can compete for. Div. III schools get heavily monitored by the NCAA to ensure their student athletes don't get more financial aid than other students.
  7. Last summer I switched wedges from CG14s to Calla MD3 family, and got an XR16 Pro driver (R-flex) which straightened out my tee shots. Now, I've made a couple of other changes, mainly by chance "good deals" over the winter which are working out. New FWs and a new putter. I reluctantly have put aside my Tour Edge XRail 4W and 7W for Callaway 815 Alpha FW which I kept stumbling across. I got an 18° with the idea of using it at 17° as a single FW. Got an unhit model at a Thanksgiving area clearance sale for $129. Then, I stumbled across a slightly used 14° Alpha, also for $129 at Golfsmith switching to GG. My original plan was to open the two up to 16° and 20°, but the 15° setting gets the ball up fairly well. So, I've got the two at 15° and 19° for the short run. The Alpha head has two sole weights: put the heavy one up front, and you get a more penetrating flight. Put the heavy in back, and you get higher launch. I'm keeping heavy in back. I got to try both out at Myrtle Beach last week, and they have equal distance to the XRails but the Alphas seem easier to keep on line. Both have the Speeder 665 R-flex shaft (62 grams), with a 3.9 torque. My driver has the Speeder 665 TS R-flex, but the standard 665 works better for me in the FWs. The Alphas are a tad heavier overall, which helps. On the week, I had three 15° shots that traveled 220 yds. total. The Alpha misses tend to end up in first cut of rough, rather than in never-never land. I got the same tip from two different pros at the February golf expo. I had too much footwork in my swing, which sometimes led to poor balance. I've focused on keeping my weight back on the heels, and this has really helped keep me on balance. My wife says I'm swinging the best and most balanced in 10 years. At MB, I had a couple of spells each 18 where my swing got flaky, but was able to recover both times. Had trouble shaking off the "bad return" last two years. I shot a 91 at Heathland (five pars, including two 2-putt pars after approach shots from fairway bunkers) and a 96 at Shaftesbury Glen (weird back nine at the Glen: a birdie, a double b, a triple bogie and six bogies). I played tees measuring out at about 6,000 yards at both courses. As for putter, I stumbled across a local shop which has a good inventory of the Slotline Inertia putters. The heads have tungsten heel and toe weighting, and I got the SL-583F model. Slotline got sold to Dynamic Brands about 5 years ago, and I'm not sure the putters are a production model anymore. The putter had really straightened out my line, and I just need to work a bit on distance control. For set-up, my hands should be about a half-inch in front of the clubface for a square hit and good roll. I sometime put the hands back too much, and hit too much on the upswing and leave the putt short.
  8. Our local Amateur circuit plays "ready golf." Another thing that helps: the marshal will sometimes act as forward spotter on blind tee shot holes to help players find their balls.
  9. Also, there's a problem that not all the people are "up to speed" on the rules. In our local Amateur circuit, last year's opening round took 6 hours, 10 minutes for my group. We didn't play that well, but we were still having to wait 5-10 minutes on each tee box to hit. Biggest problem was knuckleheads who would hit a high draw or fade off the tee that was clearly OB in the deep woods. Did these chops hit a provisional? Nooooo. They went down, looked for the ball - maybe wood nymphs threw it back to the fairway? - then came back and re-teed it. One of my playing partners was playing in his first ever circuit event, and he said he would never play the circuit again. This was unfortunate, as he had the game to finish in top 5 for season points.
  10. I understand about not wanting to alter your main iron set. That is why you would find a demonstrator 6i which matches your model of irons. You take the demonstrator 6i and make the loft a degree stronger, and add a 1/4" plug to the butt when you regrip the iron. Then, you put your set's original 4i and 5i on the shelf - uncut - in case you have a course where you want more longer irons. Then, the low-end irons in your bag would be: 4 Iron 22° 190 Strong 6 Iron 28° -->27° + 1/4" shaft plug = 175? Fine tune with test shots. 7 Iron 31° 160 The idea of in-between or "tweener" irons comes from Dave Pelz's Short Game Bible, Chap. 10.
  11. You might leave out the 47* (it's a late add on and you don't label it). If you did this, you would have to learn how to choke down 1/2" or so on the 43* to shave off yardage. If you did that, you might put two extra wraps of tape under the lower hand so you could choke down without getting too much taper narrowness, and possibly rolling the face closed. Also, try a 3/4 swing with the 39* 9i. You would just have to experiment and see how these work. Or, you could find a demo 6i that matches your set, bend it to 27* and add 1/4" to the shaft, and drop out the 5i. (You would keep the original 6i and the 5i at home). This might give you 15 yds. between a strong 6i and the residual 4i, but that would be manageable.
  12. I tend to play better overall in scrambles than I do in individual rounds. I guess there's less pressure to hit the perfect shot. Also, on shorter holes, I'll hit the safety tee shot and let the others swing away. About half the time, the "swing away" shots are disasters and we end up using my ball from the fairway for our approach. Also, I'm a bit inconsistent with my partial wedges, so I can drop in a couple of good ones to tap-in range for the team. The benefit scrambles are a good way for me to get outside my normal golf circle and meet new people. That said, I don't care much for league scrambles where your group plays once a week at different course. I prefer best ball events, so I can turn in my own score at the end of the day.
  13. Not yet. I don't have direct connections there, and I don't have the discretionary $1,500 to buy into high-end benefit scrambles that play there in summer. I've met head pro Mike Tucker at area golf events, and got to talk to him at the 2016 PGA Merchandise show. I'm familiar with the course - camped out there as spectator during 2004 Senior Open, and volunteered there during 2013 Senior PGA. Kohki Idoki won it by shooting 6-under in the rainy final round to edge frontrunners Kenny Perry and Jay Haas. B is a long tough course, and has several greens that are a bit shallow to hold from long range. No. 14 at Bellerive is very interesting - usually plays about 400 yds., a dogleg left with hazard along the left side up to the green. The green is shallow and angles to the left. I think it's easier for amateurs who can draw the ball, and bring it right down the long axis of the green. The pros that usually hit cut shots are taking an angle into the shallow dimension of the green. It's a birdie hole - except when it's not!
  14. A clubsmith can do a final tweak with a tip weight inserted into the shaft before it is installed. +2 grams in the tip would raise the swingweight 1 point. That said, tip weighting technically changes the balance point of the club a bit, since the weight is added above the hosel rather than in the clubhead. Adding 2 grams wouldn't influence balance much, but adding 6 or 8 grams might. A veteran clubsmith could advise you better on tipweighting a specific amount.
  15. One thing to consider is shaft length. In stock shafts, the RSi1 5i has 38.25", the XTD Ti 23* has a 39.5". So from a length standpoint, the hybrid should carry farther as it will give you a longer swing arc, probably 10-15 yards distance difference. But that doesn't take into account shaft weight. Assuming stock shafts: RSi1 has... * REAX Steel / 90 gr. R and 95 gr. S / Mid-Hi launch, or * REAX Graphite / 87 gr. R and 90 gr. S / Hi launch. STD Ti has Matrix Ozik Red Tie HQ3 // 87 gr. R and 90 gr. S // both midlaunch. Given the tendency to have lighter shafts in longer clubs, the hybrid shaft is fairly heavy compared to the iron shaft. So for swinging, you may find the RSi1 good but the STD too heavy, or, the RSi1 too light and the STD good. Let us know how things test out.