Jump to content

Howard Jones

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Sandbagger

About Howard Jones

  • Rank

Personal Information

  • Your Location
    Alhama de Murcia Spain

Your Golf Game

  • Handedness

Recent Profile Visitors

987 profile views
  1. Then tell what is, your reply is useless for all readers.
  2. We have the same relation ship between a face angle thats 1* open or closed to path as we have for 1* up or 1* flat for lie angles, they cause the same tilt on the spin axis, on this case as roll. At 8 yards (24 feets), we dont hit the cup at all if lie is more than 1* off, (and the cup is 4.25") so at 4* off and 30 feets, way outside the cup, just try it yourself. If lie angle on putters was no more important than that we would all play 72* or what ever they deliver as "standard"
  3. nope, read this https://www.quinticballroll.com/GFI111_Inst.Putt.pdf
  4. What he said, DONT grind anything here, its NOT needed. A hammer with a clean flat face, small LIGHT taps...many of them, and you will be able to "push it back" where it belongs. Its called "cold forging", and thats was "good enough" on weapon parts when i was a Gun Smith in the army, so its more than good enough on Golf clubs. Its a 5-10 minutes job, NO grinding or sanding, ONLY the hammer.....so thats "hammer time", and so easy you will be amazed. Just remember NO FORCE, only light small taps so dont use a "heavy hammer", but a small light one. And DO NOT fix the club head in a Vise, then you risk to hit loft or lie out of specs like PING adjust some club heads, so just hold it in one hand, and use the other for the hammer
  5. Make sure you can see where you make impact on the face. The numbers above is form a impact LOW on the face, where launch is low and spin is high. In your case there is room for improvement if you can dial in a better impact position, so make sure impact is on the upper 1/3 of the face. If your preference for ball flight is a draw, the upper 1/3 and 3/8 to 4/8" against the toe side is what makes the longest carry. The same club, shaft player and swing, might see spin levels from 4000 to below 2000 ALL depending on where we make impact (height) Launch angle might vary by up to 4* from low on the face to the upper 1/3, so just by dialing in a better impact, you can both gain a few miles ball speed, get launch angle 2 or maybe 3 higher, and cut spin levels below 2400. AS average we see a difference of 240 rpms of spin for each 1/8" we go up or down on the face, so to get below 3000, we need to move impact 3/8" higher than its now, but i suspect it to be way down, so your potential for improvement is very good. For ball speed, 154 is within reach, and if we say launch goes up by 2* and we raise impact by 6/8 we should see 1400-1500 as drop in spin, and if we enter those numbers on Flightscope optimizer (who give shorter return numbers than Trackman), it will look like this. All numbers from Flighstscope so we get the DIFFERENCE right. 151.5 Ball speed - 10.7 Launch - 3667 spin = 234 carry - 251 Total 154 Ball speed - 12.7 Launch - 2250 spin = 251 carry - 278 total About 16 yards more carry...total is depending on fairways, and lower spin is always more roll. Its still more than "1 club shorter inn" to get from the same club and swing. Both Trackman and Flightscope has CHANGED their algorithms lately, Trackman return numbers has become longer than they was, Flightscope has gone the other way and return shorter numbers, but dont ask me why, its just a observation where i notice that Flightscope has shrink-ed their numbers average about 5%, i dont have a number for Trackman, but i seems like 3-4% longer, so they are now close to the generous distances we might see from CG2, I made this chart using Flighscope optimizer a few years ago, and they are more inline whit what Trackman returns now. They was made to illustrate what we could gain simply by dialing in a better impact, so start numbers for spin and launch comes from Trackmans Optimum charts, but ive used 1.5 as smash instead of 1.48 as they use on their charts as the max for 100 mph club speed.
  6. To make this right, club length alone is not enough, we need "the 3 holy" parameters set right for the actual player, and those are Play length, Total weight, and Balance or how the player feels the weight distribution between head shaft and grip. Way to many player has the idea that the longer the shaft is, the more club speed are we able to generate, but thats not true at all, since its also a question of total weight and balance or resistance if you like. At some point we can no longer gain club speed, and all we get going longer than that is inconsistent impact. No drivers has the same BALL speed all over the face, so unless we are able to make impact where COR is at the max, we loose ball speed and distance, and impact who is to far out from VCOG puts horizontal gear effects to play, so we also loose directional dispersion. Thats why Tour players dont play standard, they loose directional dispersion and cant choose what side of the fairway they wants their lay up, so a potential few yards longer as max cant pay back what we loose on dispersion. Ive wrote a DIY driver tune up guide, who is the same method ive been using during fitting of players of all levels, and it works. You WILL improve both your average distance, AND dispersion, and thats good for scoring, so unless the club we make is for LONG DRIVING, most players benefit from going shorter than standard. If you fit to play "standard" length irons, 44.00" is a good match on the driver, and if your irons is plus 0.5" you might add the same to the driver who then becomes 44.50". Elite amateurs and PROs with a very good eye to hand coordination might add up to 0.5" inch on those numbers. ONLY players with a natural flat swing plane, with a very good eye to hand coordination will benefit from a driver longer than this, and thats why i never made a driver longer than 45.00" When we go shorter we loos SW or feel of head weight, but DONT reset the original value, but use this opportunity to find what works the best for you, and that might be both lower or higher than standard, so dont trace "standard values", its not the same as that they work for you. During this testing, lead tape is a must, and if you dont want to play with lead tape there is other options when you know how much weight is needed, but until then lead tape is whats needed so we can dial in what works the best. Total weight is also important, and when we go shorter, we can use 5 grams pr inch UP on shaft weight as rule of thumb, so if we have a club thats 45.00" who feel right on shaft weight, that shaft is not ideal at 44.00", so when going shorter, we should start from a shaft weight ABOVE our needs. About distance and ball speed. Many players who plays a standard length driver has a average PTR or Smash factor below 1.44 (on Trackman or Flightscope), and if this player has 100 mph as measured club speed he gets average 144 mph ball speed. If he can keep the same club speed, and improve his impact, he should be able to see a PTR of 1.50 to 1.52 as the max, (or 150 to 152 ball speed in this case), and for each mpg ball speed we can gain, we get average 2 yards more carry. The average player has the potential to improve ball speed from 144 to 150 or 152, so thats 6-8 Mph ball speed or 12-16 yards more carry, but now with better dispersion side ways. Some player will actually GAIN club speed going shorter, AND improve impact at the same time, so its all about finding the players limit for how long a club he should play, what total weight that club should have, and what balance, the rest is feel, and LOFT to get ball flight as we want it. Those who doubt this should give it a try them self, and pay attention to impact pattern on the face. Ideal for a draw is on the upper 1/3 of the face, 3/8 to 0.5" against the toe side, but to really make it right, we should start by finding where VCOG i located on the face. .
  7. WE have several models for that, and thats why this is so confusing. In a Lab world, we could but up the numbers like you do, but it demands knowledge of the actual club speed on the impact spot and we dont have any LMs who does that 100% correct but Foresight CG2 with HTM comes close. If we use Trackman or Flightscope we are on another system. The radar is behind the club at impact, so it dont know where we made impact, it capture the geometric head (the visual frame or image) and calculate a center of gravity based on that, but we can never make it right since heads of today is made with both carbon fiber and titanium, so weight distribution can be seen, only measured. But the machine will use that same spot on every stroke, so we do have a fixed reference point. IF we now make impact a tad toe side, ACTUAL club speed on that spot is higher that the spot Trackman mesured club speed on, and then we get to see PTR values above 1.5 Example A player where Trackman mesure his club speed to 100 and he makes a impact dead center, we should expect to see a ball speed of 150 or a PTR value of 1.50 If we make impact 0.5 inch against the toe, actual club speed is about 2 mph higher (1.85/1.9) so if the face is still hot out there, we get to see a ball speed of about 152/153 from the same 100 mph club speed and PTR now say 1.52 or 1.53 If we turn those numbers we can put them up like this> 153 ball speed / 102 actual club speed on impact spot gives a actual PTR value of 1.50 so we dont really get above this number, but the player was more effective vs a center impact The player IS more effective when he can boost ball speed with up to 3 mph from the same club speed, and thats why i like Trackman better for this, even if CG2 with HTM is more correct when we compare it to the theory model where we need to know actual club speed in the impact spot so we CANT compare the same club on PTR value between this 2 LM, we can only do that on BALL SPEED since the system they use to judge is totally different and give different return values.
  8. When ball speed is higher, distance is longer, so yes, LPGA players has a average better impact and PTR / Power Transfer Ratio, also called Smash factor, but since PGA has a way higher club speed the difference to PTR is not large enough to equalize the difference to club speed so PGA players is still longer...ball speed tells that story, so focus more on ball speed, less on club speed. Launch and spin is a big mess here since launch is a question of so many parameters from both the players swing and the equipment, so this average numbers is hardly ever representative for the player in from of you. His Angle of attach, the loft he plays on his clubs, the heads VCOG and RCOG, the ball.....put all those parameters from 300 players in a bucket and shake the bucket well, then we get this numbers....average, not representative for anyone, so that number becomes like human nature, where the actual norm is not being normal since hardly nobody hits that norm number, we are all a bit off from the norm in one direction or the other and its the same here.
  9. They vary way more than most think they do. Just take a look into Trackmans PGA Average numbers, they are only average, NOT ideal or anything like that, just the average. There you will find the numbers ive used above for the #7 iron where we see a PTR value of 1.33 as the average. TrackMan PGA Tour Averages Stats Tour stats include: Club Speed, Attack Angle, Ball Speed, Smash Factor, Launch Angle, Spin Rate, Max Height, Land Angle and Carry. TrackMan... Then take a peak into different Trackman blogs....ups, numbers is not even close to average, and tells its large varities here, this is one example, a test between turf and mats and how launch and spin might vary. This player is in the 92-94 mph range with his #7 iron, and a PTR value of 1.38 to 1.4 so he is just like the example above compared to the average numbers for "impact quality" and ability to convert club speed to ball speed. http://blog.trackmangolf.jp/mats-vs-grass-whats-difference/ If we now took the same numbers again, and this time compared this "no name average PGA player" with 90 mph CS and 1.33 PTR and a ball speed of 120, and compare to the player from the blog and say he was average 93 and a PTR of 1.39 average he gets a ball speed of 129.2 9.2 mph more ball speed is more than 18 yards more carry vs the average...from only 3 mph higher club speed, because his PTR is very good. Even among the best players there is huge varieties, so dont think for a second that they are all "perfectly fitted" or have maximized their potential, its not like that at all, they are just like us deadly players, they vary both between players, and the same player vary day to day and stroke to stroke, just like us, just not with so large varieties between the good and the bad ones and less mistakes in general, thats what makes them better than us. so here we got 2 numbers, the average of 1.33 and we have a example of 1.4 or plus 0.07 so that means we also have some down at 1.33 - 0.07 = 1.26 and from 90 CS they will only get 113 as ball speed and thats 7 mph or 14 yards carry shorter than the average number
  10. Give me some LM numbers for both and i can tell, better impact gives a higher PRT value, its that simple, so 2 players with the same clubs and club speed is NOT the same as equal ball speed and distance, it might vary quite a lot, and we see that all the time. Example, the average PGA, PTR for a #7 iron is 1.33 while there is many players up at 1.4 to 1.41. If their club speed was the same and as average, we can do the numbers: 90 mph club speed x 1.33 = 119.7 mph ball speed 90 mph club speed x 1.41 = 126.9 mph ball speed Thats 7.4 mph difference to ball speed, and you can as average use 1 mph ball speed = 2 yards carry so we have 2 players with the same clubs and club speed but with 15 yards difference to carry, all due to impact quality If we now ask, how much higher club speed does player 1 need to hit the same distance as player 2, we get this numbers. 126.9 ball speed (target and equal to player 2) / 1.33 PTR value (same as player 1 has now) = 95.4 mph club speed needed. Player 1 need to raise his club speed from 90 to 95.4 or up 5.4 Mph or 6%..not easy. Its easier to improve impact by better fitted clubs, and better fitted clubs OFTEN means higher club speed for that reason alone, still with improved impact, so its a no brainer really.
  11. Im new on this forum, and very late to this party, but my eyes is rolling when i read what you post here, its not even close to how it works. Lets start with play length itself. Its a question of stance and ability to "move", so both the short and the long end of a set has to be set right for THIS player. The Old school thinking who say distance is 80% loft and 20% added club speed is NOT correct and never has been, since distance is BALL SPEED add a question of impact quality, NOT impact speed. So club speed dont help if impact quality suffer, we DONT gain anything that way. Shaft flex. Cutting dont a club DONT make it stiffer, thats a myth, because we now have to look into what flex slope that shaft model has by nature. A Shaft like DG X100 had a flex slope of 10.8 CPM pr inch, so when we cut a club 1.0" shorter, it MUST be at least 10.8 CPM stronger "to be the same flex", and most shafts respond only with the difference in SW value, so going down 1 inch gains 6 CPM equal to 6 SWP while it should have been 10.8 stronger, so the fact is, we went WEAKER by butt cutting 1 inch. We count it as SS1 at minus 0.5 " and as SS2 at minus 1, the same the other way where added SW EATS flex,. and then 0.5 longer is SS1 and 1.0 inch longer becomes SS2. The shaft itself will bend LESS because its shorter, but FLEX is NOT measure that way, not even on a deflection board since both the CPM and the deflection method is a question of how long this club is. Lie angle progression on todays clubs is average 0.5" between clubs with 4/8" increments so going 1 inch shorter, means we end 1 flat vs where we started from, and should compensate by going 1 upright. (look at original specs for lie, and compare the #3 vs the #5 iron, its most likely 1*, not "a couple of degrees"), but if they was set CORRECT as they was, and now is 1 off, that alone move impact spot and reduce power transfer ratio = lower ball speed and shorter distance, but its more issues in your set. Play length itself is the most important parameter, #2 is total weight, #3 is balance, and im NOT talking SW values, but how THIS player is able to sense Shaft weight vs head weight, and thats very individual. So why did it turn out wrong for you? - Judgement of play length might be wrong, the total wgt/shaft wgt you started from is NOT good for you in the first place, balance was never set right, and now its far off, and lie angle is not set right either, so how can you expect that just cutting them down 1.0 inch would "solve it all"? Solution - evaluate what club in the set works the best now? is it the same club as it used to be or is it now a club in the longer end like the 5 or 6, but it used to be the 8 or 9? IF the answer is, its a longer club than it used to be, then its RESISTANCE during release thats messed up, and you should consider a complete rebuild, and get OFF the flat SW system, because it dont work for most of us. Pick up what used to be your favorite iron, and add lead tape to the head in steps of 2 grams at the time until its to much, and dial back again to the level it works the best. When done rip of that lead tape and put it on a gram scale, and tell what play length that club has, and i can help you with how much weight the other heads needs to become like that club. If i was earlier on this forum, i would have stopped you from cutting down those shaft like you did, and made a different approach to it all, (going 3/8 or 9.5 mm alternative10 mm instead of 4/8" and 12.7 mm) but it still not to late, your clubs can still be improved, but to make a really good fit, its way more that just play length and head weight, its also a question of shaft weight and total weight, and how that weight is distributed on the club. PS! when we lower or hands on the club like you used to do, you got the ACTUAL resistance a shorter club would give (the new SW value 6 point lower at 1 inch), and the feel of flex difference that would give, so nothing changed from that to actually cutting them down, except that the inch above your hand who made a small counterweight is now gone. If they worked good 1 when gripping down 1 inch, they should work just as good after cutting down, and if they dont, they was NOT a good starting point and DID NOT work good gripping down either, they have been "off all the time" so where could they be come "better or worse" when its the same thing gripping down or cutting down? Its still tons of myths about how golf club works, thats what ive been fighting on the net for more than 10 years now, and this case is a school example of mis-understandings, so im afraid the set is "far off good specs for you" no matter what we do with it, but dont give up yet, ask yourself if there now is another club who turns out to be the best vs was it used to be, and then we have at least isolated 1 issue, RESISTANCE or lack of it in the others, since your clubs is SW based. Flat SW value means Progressive HIGHER resistance as we go longer, so your set still has higher resistance as they go longer, but if the favorite club now is a longer club than it used to be, you need a head weight tune up to get the rest into place, and that can be done. Cheers HJ
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...