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About Waddaplaya

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  1. Hey all, Quick question for you. I discovered this dollar driver club online and am interested in renting a Ping G410 Plus driver. I have demoed it before and really enjoyed it. My current driver is a Ping G25 10.5 set to the neutral position. My natural shot shape is a fade. My question is: should I order a 9 degree G410 Plus and turn it up to 10.5 so that it closes the face a bit and neutralizes my ball flight or should I order the 10.5 and play with it in the draw position?
  2. I need to swap them out. I just have the Cobra Connect sensors in them so it is more of a pain in the ass and more expensive but I get it. Also I think I am putting my ball too far forward with my irons. In the past I moved my ball far forward to prevent hitting it fat by moving my weight forward to get to the ball without the ground first which really does help. I have almost completely stopped hitting fat shots. However now that I am trying to learn to hit a draw I think by the time my club face has gotten to the ball so far forward it is facing left of the target line causing a slice on an outside to inside path instead of in to out required for the draw shape.
  3. I have not placed the club back on the ground but I do think you may be on to something because since I am trying to hit a draw shot with all of my clubs I am attempting to roll my wrists through impact which may be leaving the club too open. Maybe I am rolling the face before impact.
  4. Hello all... I have been tinkering with learning how to hit a draw. I must say it has really helped with my driving. I hit more fairways today with the driver than I have in quite some time. I would say the ball is drawing a ton but it has definitely neutralized the miss to the right and gently drifts back to the left. However, one problem I am having is that I am losing control of my grip through the impact of the ball with my irons. It is causing shots that go way to the right. As soon as I make contact with the ball I lose my grip and the ball slices off to the right like crazy. Would a larger grip help this? I have been fitted for a midsize grip in the past however my new irons are only standard size. Could this make a difference? If not what else could it be. It doesn't happen all of the time but way more than I would like. Thanks , Nick
  5. I am not claiming for certainty that all manufacturers are not extremely consistent. I am providing some data from a specific experience I had to support the original post that clubs bought off of the rack or bought from Ping like my second set were not extremely consistent. Take the information however you like. I am not sour about anything. I just find it interesting and am glad I had the experience. I certainly would like to take specs from a fitting and apply it to other clubs I may want to purchase in the future instead of paying 150+ every time I purchase new clubs.
  6. My experience was with a set of Tommy Armour clubs bought off the rack. The manufacturers are not extremely consistent with mass built clubs, which is the point of the post. No I was not fit for those irons. The swing weights were more then 2 swing weights off between clubs. In terms of shaft flexes I meant there is no standard overall between companies. I understand you can get custom fit for everything under the sun. However if you wanted to buy a shaft from specs you had from a previous fitting then you should be able to figure out where the flexes fall from company to company without purchasing them and testing them for frequency.
  7. 100 percent agree. This is a post of mine from a few weeks ago: Hello all... Yesterday I went for my first iron fitting. The fitter used a different way to determine the shaft flex that a person needs. They use a measurement of "shaft loading" vs the popular swing speed method. I was basically hooked up to a machine and hit some shots and we determined what shafts I would need in my irons and my woods. The scale they use basically uses 5.0 in the middle as a Regular flex. So I was a 4.6 in my irons and a 5.2 in my woods. So we determined I need a little softer than R in the irons and a little stiffer than R in the woods. They explained that a person with a slower swing speed could still load the shaft higher than someone with a faster swing speed which was interesting. It is also interesting than I need a slightly different shaft in my irons than in my woods. The thing that was really crazy is that he tested the flex of each of my irons in my bag. I brought two sets of irons. I had an old set of Tommy Armours and a newer set of Ping G20s both of which are R Steel Flexes. He tested all of my iron shafts on a machine where he put the iron in a vise and then he pulled the head down and let it go. It bounced around and he got a reading that told him what flex the iron was. All of the irons were so different. None of them were 5.0 R Flex. They were all over the place on both sets. The pings were actually much softer than R in the A Flex range and the TAs were all over the place. I found this interesting because he explained that there are no standards for flexes in golf so a Stiff from company A may be an extra stiff from company B. That is definitely a disheartening thing to realize. Not only is there no standard but literally all of the shafts from Ping were considerably different flexes and the shafts from TA were all over the place. He tested my wedge set and they were XX Stiff. All of the lofts of the wedges were wrong as well. Another thing he tested was the loft of my G25 driver set to 9.0. He measured the loft and it was actually 12 or 13 degrees and when set to the 9.0 (the standard position is 10.5) this opened the club face 3 degrees. So not only did the lofts not match hosel indication but the lie angle was 3 degrees open when set to the loft of 9, which could explain why I am pushing the driver right. He then tested my hybrid and the loft was off by 1 degree and it was 3 degrees closed. He also weighed all of the clubs and explained that most of the clubs were "shaft heavy" and "head light" which means they were not balanced very well and could make it difficult to be aware of where your club head is during the swing. In conclusion almost every aspect of every club in my bag was all jacked up. What I learned is that: 1. There is no standard for shaft flexes which makes it nearly impossible to buy shafts on your own 2. The shaft flexes on your set of clubs can vary greatly from iron to iron which do not match the actual flex that they say they are 3. The irons are not balanced properly so you could potentially be shaft or head heavy. 4. The lofts are usually wrong on the clubs 5. The lie angles can be open or closed coming as a standard from the company (you didn't request it to be so). 6. When adjusting your adjustable driver you can actually open and close the club face without knowing it causing your shot patterns to change Mama mia.... I definitely learned a lot through the process. They are going to build one of my clubs to my specs and then I am going to test that one club. If I like it I will get the whole bag done the same way. It was really eye opening. Although I did find it to be the case that my irons were all over the place, the fitter did measure them himself like Adam mentioned and then wanted to charge me 70 per club to rebuild a 20 year set of Tommy Armour cast irons. So it would have been 700 bucks to do the remaining bag.
  8. I will definitely do that. I will say I was definitely making more solid contact with the ball. The shots drawing left were definitely not "mis hits" as in fat, thin, toe, or heel shots. They are definitely middle struck. If I can tame the draw down I would be in love for sure. They did feel really nice. The one thing I noticed is that because they are longer, I tried to stand up straighter and when I flushed one it felt beautiful with more power than normal. I will give them a couple more grass range sessions and tinker a bit.
  9. Ok fair enough... now another question to my endless list of questions. I hit the 6 iron that had been rebuilt for me for the first time today. The changes were a shaft rebuild with the TT XL Lite shafts which, a change of grip to a little larger midsize from a standard I was using before, and an addition of .5 inch to the shaft than before. I like the way the club felt. I have to get used to the length and become more conscience of standing up straighter not to hit fat shots. One thing I did notice that when I make good contact all of the balls were tending to go left. I am not talking about a hook but more of a 10 yard slow draw. It is essentially just drawing too much to the left. I called the fitter and asked if it is possible that the lie angle is too upright and he said by his standard at that length they actually flatten out the lie angle of the club. Right now the 6 iron is set to a 60 degree lie. Is it possible that it needs to be flatter? Is it possible the addition of the length and the slightly softer shaft is causing shots to go left? I imagine it could be my swing as well obviously. I called the fitter and asked him if we could flatten it out and he said it was already a little flatter than normal.
  10. Why is that? Why couldn't they be bent farther? The metal used? I've read you can bend clubs farther than that.
  11. Ok I appreciate that information as well. Another question I have is that with my set of Tommy Armour 845 EVO Cavity irons what would I do if I needed to adjust the loft and lie of the irons? I know that some irons are easy to bend and some irons are not. Could you explain that to me?
  12. If you find a shaft that works for you what ways can you use the specs of that shaft to find others you will like from different companies? Would you take a frequency reading of the shaft and then find another shaft with the same frequency? For example, when I went for my fitting the fitter measured the frequency of all of my current shafts and they were all over the place. He explained that they weren't even in the range of what a Regular flex is. So, if you find a flex you like, how do you pick another shaft from a different company with similar qualities? Is the frequency all you need or are there other characteristics of the shaft besides that?
  13. I am not relating our swing to that of a PGA professional. I am saying if the pros literally choose to use shorter drivers because it is easier to keep in play that means it could help the average player as well.
  14. This is the best step by step club altering video I have seen so far. It is extremely detailed and you explained everything perfectly. You don't gloss over any of the steps which is very helpful for people who have never done it before.
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