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First time poster, 20+ year player with ~9 handicap here.. In short- my 60° SM5 M-08b is my favorite club, I make solid contact even on firm lies.. Manipulating the clubface open/close is a relative strength of mine thus the M grind fits me well as a neutral ba striker.. I also hit full/square shots very well with my 52-F- 12b, but my Cleveland rtx 3 56° 12b is another story. I've narrowed my options down to the sm7 56- M(8 bounce) or S grind, but I'm hesitant to get the M as the sand near me is often thicker than thin (south-central NJ). Based on this info, will I be alright with the M grind in thicker sand if I open clubface a little bit? Or, should I shoot for the S with a little more bounce and stick with the traditional advice I keep hearing? Thanks in advance, look forward to hearing your thoughts!
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What bounce and grinds would you use on a 52 and 58, in a setup with a 47 degree PW? I'm looking into getting wedges that would allow me to use this set of lofts so I can drop a wedge from the bag. The 58 will basically be my lob and sand wedge, and my bunker club of choice most of the time. For somewhat longer sand shots the 52 will be used. This makes it hard to choose the right bounce and grind because both clubs will need to play well opened up, without raising the leading edge, but both are used from the sand too, for which higher bounce usually helps. The gap between 52 and 58 is large enough that I'm going to want to open the 52. The 58 not being a 62-64 will need to be opened too when playing flops. The popular strategy of one club having low bounce and the other high bounce I think may not work well here? Should I get 8-ish bounce with a C or M grind for both the 52 and 58? The technique I plan hope on using with the 58 out of sand is Luke Donald's, he shows it in this youtube video. Because effective bounce can be added using the trailing edge, I'm hoping I can have the bounce on the clubs relatively low to not sacrifice bare lie playability at least for one of the clubs. What bounce and grind (and therefore which brand+model of wedge, I guess) would you go for, given these lofts? Or, would you not go this route at all because the wedges have to be a compromise, given that the 58 is my lob as well as my sand wedge? Your thoughts will be much appreciated. -
Hey guys, I purchased my first set of Vokey wedges about 2 months ago. I've got a 54 deg F grind(14 bounce) and a 58 deg K grind(11 bounce). Both have served me well. However, there is a noticeable problem when playing greenside flop shots within 20ft of the pin. The 58 degree wedge with it's face all the way open will not pop up the ball in "fluffy" grass since the grind an bounce won't let it. The 54 will do it, but the ball arc the club produces is shallow(turns into a bump and run)...even with a half swing. Being that I am a digger, and my wedges are "digger" friendly....what should I look for in something greater that 58 degree's for my style of play? For 60 degree wedges there are 4 different grinds....and if I go to 62, there is only one choice. OR should I just wait till the SM6 is available. I like having my 54, since it can blast me out of a bunker and the 58 is my friend in tighter lies.
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So I moved to Portland a year ago but didn't get to play at all last winter. Plus last winter was historically dry here, and the courses I got to play last summer were all well drained and well dried out by the time I was playing. I've now gotten to play 9 holes a few times this winter, which leads to a question about wedges. I've been using the same 60˚ for years now, and I've always loved it. Use it for almost all shots under ~80 yards, almost all shots around the green, when I'm playing regularly have it really dialed in (for my handicap), pretty rarely thin it and (literally) almost never hit it fat. I don't know the bounce, but it's definitely (very?) low bounce. This history was all in southern California where conditions tend to be firm. This past weekend I played 9 holes at a wet, soft course. With swings that felt great to me, with good lies in both tight grass and first cut light rough, I chunked most of my wedge shots around the green, and a couple partial swing shots from further out. I was by myself and just playing a practice round, so I was playing multiple balls on many shots. The only way I could not end up taking a big chunk of mud starting before the ball and hitting the ball 25% as far as I wanted was to play a steep chip shot, ball back a bit in the stance, hands forwards, try to hit ball before ground (i.e., try NOT to use the bounce, against what I've trained my short game swing towards). So my question, is this just an outlier, as in the course was SUPER wet and soft and soggy, and in those conditions you just can't use bounce and have to try to hit ball first short game shots, regardless of club setup? Or is this proof of the concept that wedge setup should be determined by predominant conditions, and I should invest in a high bounce 60˚ for all but the driest summer months?
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I was wanting some wedges for Christmas this year is I only have a pitching wedge. I think I should get a 56 in a 52 but my grandpa thinks I should get a 50 and 56. What combo should I get?
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There are roughly three basic motions or shots you can hit with a wedge. They are: Full swing (includes any "normal" swing down to as little as a 1/4 swing). Chip (short to medium length shot, good shaft lean, uses the leading edge) Pitch (short to medium length shot, minimal shaft lean, uses the bounce; includes bunker blasts) In each, bounce is important: Full swing (gets the clubhead out of the ground, prevents taking big divots, enhancing feel) Chip (same as a full swing, but you don't want so much bounce you need to have your hands excessively forward) Pitch (bounce allows the clubhead to glide along the ground and not dig in, giving you a wide margin of error for shots hit slightly behind the golf ball). Around the greens, 95% of the shots I play tend to be pitches of some variety or another. Though there's a continuum of shots ranging from "extreme pitch" to "extreme chip," on virtually every short game shot I'm actively using and engaging the bounce more than I'm trying to use the leading edge. It's a simpler, easier way to play, and the game rarely presents opportunities where the precision required to let the leading edge engage with the ground is a good thing. I even play a "pitch" shot off hardpan, and though this shot is the closest I'll typically play to a chip shot, using even a few degrees of bounce gives you a slight margin for error that doesn't exist when you use the leading edge. Anyway… Edel has long made what I consider the best putters and the best fitting system in the game. We carry them not because we make much money doing so, but because we truly believe that it offers the best for golfers, and can dramatically increase their enjoyment of the game. We think the Edel putter fitting system is, far and away and bar none, the best in the game. It's changed the way we putt for the better and every one of the students we've fit into an Edel loves it. The same holds true for the wedge fitting system. We've always taught the short game by teaching people to use the bounce on the club, but the problem is some people have wedges with 6, 4, or even less bounce! They have a hard time using the bounce when they have so little. A proper pitch shot still has forward lean, and with 18° bounce (to throw out a number), even 6° forward shaft lean provides ample bounce. Instead of providing proper bounce, wedge manufacturers have, by and large, gone with small amounts of bounce but increasingly wider soles. This does help to decrease the club's tendency to dig, but I would argue that it goes about it the wrong way. What's the problem here? It's simple. Players who play wedges with less bounce will tend to "teach" themselves to play wedge shots poorly. On full swing shots, they'll flip at the ball a little more than they should because they want the club to get out of the ground. Too little bounce and you take big divots that don't feel good at all. On short game shots, they'll either flip more or they'll use the leading edge more, figuring "if the club's going to dig I may as well try to use it." The wedges perform pretty well from the bunker, which is where the wider sole can do some good, but a better grind can still improve even bunker performance (plus most people are just bad out of the bunker, period). The Edel wedge fitting system has eight different grinds and bounce options (in order from least bounce to most): sweeper, picker, nipper wide, nipper narrow, pincher, trapper, driver, digger. A typical wedge fitting system takes about 15 minutes. Players are given a 60 degree sweeper wedge and hit a few 3/4 shots (1/2 to 3/4 shots let the fitter assess ground interaction of the bounce for the player that holds true across a variety of shot types). Then they're handed a picker wedge. And then a nipper wide, a nipper narrow, and on down the line. The divots will start out heavy and thick feeling, and at some point - unique to each student - they'll find a wedge that sounds and feels different by a surprisingly wide margin. It's pretty nifty when it happens - the impact sounds clean, the divot exists but is more like a "bacon strip than a pork chop" (to steal from Moe Norman), and the feel is just different. It's tough to describe, but you know it instantly when you hit it. Once the proper grind/sole/bounce is found, the player hits off a lie board to help determine lie angle and length, and then the player is given a 52 or 56° head in approximately the grind of their preference and asked to hit a variety of shots. The fitter changes out 20+ shafts until the proper spin and launch angle are found for the student, and they've built wedge! The student can then order wedges in whatever lofts they want from 44 to 64°. They can paint fill and stamp them however they'd like (we've had people use the names of their kids as the lofts, for example - I chose "1" "2" and "3" for my wedges with "IACAS" on the toe), etc. There are some other unique things about the Edel wedges that bear mentioning. First, their grooves produce a good amount of spin. They have more grooves that produce higher and more predictable spin rates from the junk. You'll give up nothing from any other manufacturer using these wedges. Second, the position of the grooves is shifted towards the toe. The grooves line up with the center of gravity (the sweetspot) of the club, which unlike most other wedges, is in the center of the head. Most wedges shift the grooves and the sweetspot towards the heel slightly. Just a week or so ago we took our wedge fitting bag up to the course and had a few players go through a fitting. We were just training ourselves and had no intention of selling any clubs. We're skeptics, and we'd have sent the bag back if we didn't think the system worked or provided a benefit to golfers. And yet every golfer who helped us train ourselves bought a set of wedges. The difference was that remarkable to them. And to us - the sound, ball flight, and feel is remarkable. I encourage everyone to consider going for an Edel wedge fitting. Again, we don't do this for the money - and I certainly don't post this kind of stuff here for the money because very very few of you will ever take a lesson or go through a wedge fitting with me - we do it because we want to share information that makes people enjoy the game of golf more. So go through a fitting. If you don't instantly "get" the same sensation or "wow moment" that everyone we've tested gets, don't buy them. I'd wager that, whether you know it or not, your wedges aren't really fit for you, and you've adapted the way you swing them to avoid the feeling their bounce and shafts would give you if you swung them properly. In other words, you probably either flip your wedges a bit more than you should, or you take some big divots. Learn what a proper divot feels like without having to flip at the suckers! Here are some photos of my set of wedges. I had two sets made: one's forged and blacked, and the second is a cast set that's going to be my practice set (because I don't want the blackening to wear out too quickly). Oh, and guess what? They feel identical . I only got the forged set because I really, really like the black finish and it's not available on the cast clubs. :) And despite what some people who gobble marketing materials like it's candy will tell you, nobody can tell the difference between the same club that's cast or forged. Many have assumed the clubs they hit in the test are forged. They're not. Back of the wedge, with some of the unique pattern from the "blackening" visible here. Like a fingerprint, they're unique. "3" stands for my lob wedge, 60°. I have a 2 wedge (54°) and a 1 wedge (48°) as well. The three wedges at (roughly) address. The three wedges. The faces of the three wedges. The grips. The circles let you consistently grip down on the club. I replaced these grips with PURE grips. I don't need the circles. :) The sole grind of my 3 Wedge. The backs of the wedges. The bounce and grinds. My lob wedge has 22° bounce, my sand wedge has 17°, and my pitching wedge has 14°. http://edelgolf.com/index.php?option=com_content&view;=article&id;=31&j;=wedges&Itemid;=31
