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Found 9 results

  1. Hi. I have a question and wanted to see what you guys thought. Some background: I'm not a particularly fast player (e.g., low to mid 150's ball speed with driver; low 120's ball speed with a traditional loft 6i.). I used to take the club back flat, come over it initially, but jump to shallow it out. I had a strong grip and I had days where a nice push draw was achievable; other days, it was military golf. Nowadays, I play with a more neutral grip and have much less dynamic movement. I more or less play with some forward shaft lean at address and feel like I hinge the toe up quickly toward my face (to get the club more upright instead of my flat takeaway) while trying to stay more "Kevin Kisner/Charley Hoffman still." The downswing is just swing down and through the ball quickly, feeling the head of the club hit down on/cover/trap the ball and taking a nice divot like a club tracking down a hula hoop where the ball is collected on the way down. I use a simulator, so I work hard on my start line as well. I like to see a 0* azimuth/start line or there about to feel more control over the ball and I'll just adjust my aim for my draw. I mostly hit the ball relatively straight or with a slight draw or if I heel it slightly, it'll fade a bit, but nothing disastrous. I'm relatively comfortable hitting every club in my bag except driver. I'm at a loss with driver. It's so bad. Last time I played, I had little clue where to look for the ball and with my eyes, it's hard to see the ball in the air. That brings me to the issue: I hit the ball pretty solid for my speed. With driver, the problem appears to be figuring out the shape I want to play, the face angle I should have, and how I should aim. First, I'm terrified of a draw with driver. I'll hook it, push it, or maybe get the odd push draw I'm looking for. I've gone the way of the fade. I just feel like I can swing as fast as I want and not fear a disastrous shot and lose a ball. I understand the ball flight laws and I know that the face should be closed to my intended target but open to my path and that face angle for the large part dictates start line. I get that. I also know that with the ball teed up off my front foot, that will allow me to swing up and left to get my path left to hit the fade. For some reason, I feel like I swing faster when hitting a fade with driver. It feels more natural to swing left and hit the cutter. The problem is figuring out the optimal start line. Like I said, with my approach shots, I like to get as close to 0* start line as I can, even with any curve--I just pick a tree or something to the right a little and let it draw back slightly. But I really like trying to get as neutral/straight of a start line as I can--I feel more in control of the ball that way. With a fade driver, I feel like I should toe the club in (somewhere around 7 to 8:30 on the clock) and swing more left. This has given me great results--high flying, low spin fades that start left of straight and bend back toward 0*. When I toe the club in relative to 0*, I feel like I can just let it rip. It'll fade back but rarely over fades, if anything it might just hang there. Right now, I have my driver set to 8*, draw setting on hosel, and weight in the heel as well. The question: Should I, 1) like with my approach shots, strive for a 0* start line and just adjust my aim or 2) strive for a start line of a few degrees left? The problem with #1 seems to be an issue with the ball flight laws. If I keep my swing the same (swinging more left), then I feel like a face angle around 0* will result in what looks like a big push fade. But I do like the idea of controlling my start line and having it more on straight like my approach shots. However, with driver, I do not like the feeling of starting the ball straight because I feel like the ball will only go more to the right from there and I'll lose the ball. The problem with #2 seems to be an issue of knowing how far left to start the ball. For instance, during my last practice session I had start lines just a few degrees to the left (2-4* left) all the way up to 12* left. The 12* left ball was a good ball, 157 mph ball speed, with just a tiny fade on it. I guess a bit of a pull fade. The best ball I hit was a 162 mph pull fade as well. I admit, I like the pull fade feeling best. I just feel like I get through the ball better and hit it more solidly. However, it does make for a different swing and start line than all my other clubs in the bag. Also, I wonder about aiming here. Depending on how much left I start the ball, I may actually need to aim more RIGHT even though I'm playing a FADE due to the nature of the pull fade. Thanks for any tips you might have. I look forward to the responses.
  2. The World's First Adjustable Ball Marker | TRIDENT ALIGN This Next Generation Ball Marker Features An Adjustable Top Plate That Helps You Find Your Ideal Aim Line Without The Ball Being In Position On The Green. Basically, it's a ball marker which you can rotate the top without moving the base (these videos are queued up to where you can see this action in the first few seconds; you don't have to watch the whole video): To this point, I've never really cared much for the line on a ball, and the line on a ball marker has been fine, too. Even before people thought to use actual lines, I'd sometimes line the word "Titleist" up toward the hole. Every ball has a logo, a line, or even a series of dimples that would form a line. So adding a line on your ball marker and ball and lining them up, except for being slow, struck me as "fine." I've never really liked how long some people will take lining up a line or a thing, but they could have done that before, again, using the logo or whatever else was already on the ball, even if they didn't draw a line on it. As for the Rules, these are currently legal. The Rules define a ball marker as: It does that. And, because it has the "cupped" or concave part to it, the ball should be placed back in the same spot, within the acceptable margins. There aren't any real points in Rule 14 (Procedures for Ball: Marking, Lifting and Cleaning; Replacing on Spot; …) that apply here. They simply say to place a ball-marker or club beside the ball to mark its location… 10.2b says: You might think the red (highlighting my own work) text makes such a thing illegal, but ball-markers are basically excluded from this. The red text is talking about something else, like a water bottle placed on the line, or a caddie intentionally laying the bag down for the player to aim at. There are no real relevant interpretations under 10.2b. Finally, we can look at rule 4, Equipment. 4.1 is for clubs, 4.2 is for balls. 4.3 covers the "use of equipment" and one could almost make a case here: The problem? What I'll call "static" alignment ball markers have been legal for decades. But maybe the second bullet point matters?: The thing is, you don't use this equipment in making a stroke, and the text immediately after that bullet point says: So, nothing there helps out. What about this? Bingo? No. Again, if ball markers with lines on it are legal, then so is this, as you could always replace your ball and move the ball marker to your line, and then re-adjust the ball to match the line. In that sense this Trident thing might be fractionally faster. So, the mechanical ball marker is currently legal. What change would I make? It's simple: I'd require that all ball markers be non-mechanical. Just a solid piece of something (it could be multi-material, but by "solid" I mean not having moving parts or parts that move relative to each other). Is this a big deal? No. I don't even think I've ever seen anyone become a better putter by using any of these things anyway. But this feels like it's going a bit too far. I am aware as anyone about the dangers of "feels like" when discussing the Rules. But, by changing the definition of "ball-marker," we could head this off pretty quickly. What do you think? A bit too much or "who the heck cares?" P.S. I'm voting "No" they should not be legal in the poll, but it's not like I care too much. Maybe 60/40. 2/1 at most.
  3. New study shows golfers have been aiming wrong this whole time Most golfers see where they want their ball to end and aim straight for it. Pretty straightforward. Others incorporate an intermediary target — a spot a few inches in front of their ball in-line with their distant target — and focus... I'm considering trying the intermediate target only. I often use that on short putts to great effect.
  4. I play a Mizuno TP Mills #6 blade putter, toe-balanced. I suffer from alignment issues (as well as other problems, I suppose). I'm thinking a mallet putter with newer technology in weighting and alignment aids might help my scoring on the greens. Any thoughts? Much appreciated. Best, -Marv
  5. Cornu Tension in Golf Greetings, Mattie watches a lot of golf swings on YouTube. She writes to me about those who have a "hip grip" and those who don’t. She suggests I write something about what she calls the "hip grip” and on Cornu Tension and share it with the golf community. The hip grip The hip grip is the core. Everyone talks about the core. In this view, the view that Mattie wants me to share with you—the core is a grip at the hips. Just like the muscles in your hands make a grip, so do the muscles in your hips. To get a hip grip your biology has to accomplish the physics of making a grip at the hip. Practically speaking, that is the ability to rotate around the axis that runs through your hips. You’re creating an axis of rotation out of thin air by establishing control of it. The muscles act in symphony to establish a grip, because a grip gives you the control you need to move. Or to stabilize. The hip grip stabilizes your pelvis. Hold your palm up; make a grip. That same engagement of muscles making a grip happens at your hips. Your ability to make a grip in your hand is the same ability to make a grip at your hips. One is just a lot more subtle than the other! So I would say Mattie wants me to tell you that the core everyone talks about is a grip at the hips. Cornu Tension Cornu tension comes from oppositional rotation between axes. Cornu tension gives you a sensation of alignment and more uniform usage of your muscles. The body has the ability to rotate around at least six different axes, “endpoints” if you will. The primary one is at the hips. Everybody uses Cornu Tension to move, whether they know it or not. Cornu tension goes to the heart of our biology accomplishing the physics we need to move through space. Students can usually find the feeling of Cornu tension from their ears to their shoulders first. Then, find it from their shoulders to their hips. Cornu Tension comes from the way you engage the muscles of your body, from oppositional rotation between axes in your body. In Cornu Tension, the rotation at the ears connects to the rotation at the shoulders and the rotation at the shoulders connects to the rotation at the hips. Cornu tension allows you to stretch your spine and hold it stable. There you go, Mattie! The Core is a grip at the hips. Cornu tension makes alignment sensational and distributes the load of the body. Thanks for sharing your feedback from watching all those golf swings on YouTube; I hope this post is what you were looking for!
  6. That thread turned into a small train wreck-But it did raise the question about what a player is to do if he lays his club down, it leaves a line, and then what does he do? Leaving the line there is against the rules.-But so is wiping it away. Or is it not in the area of his stance or swing? But it has to be, so what is the penalty? What is the penalty if he leaves the line and plays the shot?-Just the one under 8-2 right? What is the penalty if he leaves a line-But wipes it all away before he plays the shot? 13-2? Is it just two strokes if he does either of those things? It is not four because penalties often do not stack like that plus he did not make a stroke in the second case with the line there. Tagging @Martyn W, @Asheville, @iacas, @Rulesman.
  7. Product Name: Tee Claw Product Type: Rubber Tee Replacement and Training Aid Product Website/URL: teeclaw.com Cost: $14.95 (list) Ratings (out of 5): Quality: 5 Value: 5 Effectiveness: 5 Durability: 5 Esthetic Appeal: 4 My Member Review I hate those stupid rubber tees when you’re forced to hit off mats at the range or indoors. They are never the right height; they frequently rip or get torn; and once worn, they won’t support a ball any longer. I tried to solve this problem in the past by packing the tee hole in the mat with cardboard and sticking a regular tee in that. It works, but not for long, and you have to continually repack it. That’s one reason, I was pretty stoked to try out the Tee Claw. The first thing you notice when you open the Tee Claw package is that there is more in the box than expected. (At least, if like me, you start out thinking of the Tee Claw as a rubber tube tee replacement.) There are tees (makes sense), but also four elastic strings, which it turns out help you keep from losing your tee claw. Starting with its most obvious use, rubber tee replacement, the Tee Claw is near perfect. The Tee Claw has prongs on the bottom that screw into the mat to give it some grip. Then you stick a tee into the top, and you are basically ready to go (though you might want to add an anchor line as I’ll explain in a moment). My first experience with it, I just popped one out of the pack, gave it a quarter-twist into the mat, stuck a tee in, and started hitting drivers. Though it dislodged a few times, it never went far (generally a few feet backwards) and I was able to retrieve it. Typically, the tee stayed in the Tee Claw (and didn’t even change height), but claw and tee sometimes dislodged as one. How often it dislodges depends on how well the mat accepts the Tee Claw as well as on the extent to which the player makes contact with the claw and the tee during the swing. That was indoors, though, and into a net. On a crowded range, and especially if the wind is blowing, I highly recommend using the elastic keepers that come included. The Tee Claw itself is lightweight and even a moderate wind could catch it in the air and blow it out onto the range or into your neighbors. Happily, the Tee Claw designers thought of that. Just stick one end on the Tee Claw and the other on a tee to create an anchor, then tuck that tee end under the mat. This way if the Tee Claw dislodges, and it will from time to time, you can easily (and safely) retrieve it. As other reviewers have noted, you do need to use shorter tees than normal. When inserted in the Tee Claw, the point of the tee is still sitting above the surface of the mat so you have an extra 1/3 to ½ inch of effective tee height. This can easily be addressed by using old, broken tees of appropriate, cutting down some new wood ones, or buying a small pack of shorter tees than normal just for use with the Tee Claw. (As noted earlier, each pack comes with three tees of varying lengths, but chances are you’re going to lose them at some point.) The second, less obvious use of the Tee Claw is as a training aid. With the aforementioned elastic strings, you can set up all manner of path and alignment aids for both full swings and even putts, though you won’t want to, and don’t need to, screw the Tee Claw into those felt like putting surfaces. I was able to create most of the guides that I typically set up with alignment sticks and golf balls. I suspect that many of us who use golf balls as path guides have from time to time got the tolerances too tight, clipped the guide, and fired a chili pepper or two down the line. True story, I once clipped a guide ball that hit the pile of balls next to the tee ground and sent them flying everywhere. That will shake your confidence. Substitute a Tee Claw for a golf ball, even on real grass, and you’ll be far less likely to have to apologize to those around you on the range for endangering their well being. I gave the Tee Claw all fives (except esthetics), because I think it's a great solution to the problem it addresses. That said, a few caveats... The Tee Claw is not going to wow you in the quality of materials. It's made mostly of fairly lightweight plastic, which is perfectly appropriate for what it does and the price at which it is offered. While my Tee Claw is still "like new" after a number of range trips, I suspect if I took to hitting irons directly off the top (which is an advertised feature) I suspect it would show wear fairly quickly (especially the way I'm swinging right now). But frankly, I very rarely practice irons off a tee anyway. As for esthetics, the tee claw looks a ton better than a rubber tube tee, and I'm not sure how I'd improve it. But to say it blows me away right now on looks alone, would be a lie. Then again, I don't need it to. This device is about function (and price) and it's just about perfect on both. The Tee Claw does its job with aplomb. It’s a simple, useful solution to a common pain point for golfers. If you hate rubber tube tees (and who doesn’t?) or if you need a flexible alignment guide, the Tee Claw works (and works well) for both.
  8. Stop lining way to the right. This seems to affect about 90% of the golfers out there, maybe more. Alignment is not a commonality - not every good player aligns exactly the same - but none of them align WAY THE HECK RIGHT like many amateurs do.
  9. A couple weeks ago, I was playing to my personal best ball-striking ability. These were the first few rounds of my season, and my short game was way out of whack and I still ended up shooting 88,89, etc. Since then, my short game has magically appeared and saved me multiple times, but my iron play has became very inconsistent and my tee game with driver/wood/hybrid has been absolutely horrible. I went from hitting 10/14 fairways 2 weeks ago, to hitting just 2/14 fairways yesterday at the same course. And one of those came with a 4 iron. I have been hitting huge slices instead of my normal slight fade. I shot 47-49-96 at the same course that I went 45-44-89 with 5 3-putts at just 2 weeks ago. I feel like I am hitting the ball in the center of the clubface with the face relatively square, so I must be coming over the top. I was looking in the mirror at my set up, and noticed when I have driver/3w/3h off the tee, my shoulders are considerably open to the target. I'm a righty, and my left shoulder has to be pointing between 15-25 degrees left of target. I haven't been able to work on it yet, but I'm assuming this is the most likely cause of my slicing issues. I was wondering more about the effects of shoulder alignment... Should my shoulders be square to the target at address? What about at impact? And what are the effects of improper alignment? Thanks in advance to all responses.
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