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Handicap Index

Found 6 results

  1. Hey everyone, sorry for being spotty with my presence here. Quit teaching high school after 7 years and entered a good law school. Finals are pretty tough. What little time I have had I've been able to swing on my gc2 a little bit and I've gained a lot of ballspeed in a year. I attribute it mostly to my strength level increases from powerlifting. Also, due to the long lay off, I don't have any swing thoughts or anything to bog me down. I just swing the clubhead like Ernest Jones talked about- just feel the clubhead throughout the swing and a freewheeling sling of the clubhead in the downswing. My average ball speed has gone up about 5 mph across the bag. Ok, here's my question for you guys. Do you prefer to 1) swing away from trouble and bend it back OR 2) swing at the trouble (or just inside it in case you straight ball it) and curve it away? I know there's a lot of variable like wind, pin location, sloping of the green or fairway, doglegs, etc. Further, I understand that many generally play one go-to shape (for me a draw, but i can fade it as well). I haven't played golf on a course in over a year, just 3 times on the sim (law school...) so was wondering what you guys think. I have a copy of LSW, but can't remember if it talks about this topic. When answering the question you can consider a tee shot or approach shot where there's absolute death on one side and the other side is fine. Further, assume for this question that you can draw/fade equally relatively fine. What do you do- aim at/just inside the trouble & curve it away OR aim away and curve it toward the trouble? Thanks guys.
  2. Let's hear your thoughts on it. My view Fade all day Long. Even though I played draw off the tee and approach into the green my whole life never really was able to depend on it. I recently started playing fades and only fades regardless of the situation, gained about 5-7 shots per round. Loss of Distance: 10-12 YDS with my driver, maybe 5ish YDS with irons. but what I gained in accuracy far outweighs the loss of distance IMHO
  3. I'm getting a new toy for Christmas. I'm getting a new driver and it's going to be a Ping G30. I'm stuck between the regular G30 and G30 LS Tec. My solid/proffered hits are push draws with a mid launch. My mishits are blocks and the occasional push slice. My straight hits tends to be slight fade bias. Which way should I go? I'm leaning toward the LS.
  4. So for the longest time, I've been trying to learn and accomplish a draw with my driver. After taking several lessons and countless hours on the range, I think I can count the number of times I've actually succeeded in hitting a draw on one hand. . However, I have been able to tweak my slice into more of a fade and am now thinking I should just embrace the fade, line up on the right side of the tee box and let it rip. BUT, the one issue that remains is the lack of distance. One main reason I wanted to learn the draw was to get a bit more roll and more distance on my drives. Does anybody have any tips on increasing distance with the fade? Tips on hitting a power fade? OR, do I just need to work on increasing my swing speed for more distance?
  5. Ramnation

    My Swing (Ramnation)

    6'5" 230, two torn shoulders, and in the woods Jk, but really. First post here, but not new to a forum community. Quick back ground. Played baseball til I was 24, have a slap tear in both my labrums from it, and need some help with swing path due to range of motion. My lead (left) shoulder has a tendency to click when my backswing is on the ideal path, so my natural path gets reallyyy shallow to subconsciously avoid that pain. I shoot anywhere from a 74-85 and the driver is all 11 of those strokes.Thanks a bunch in advance. Been a long time reader -- look forward to contributing where I can.
  6. Just have the path further to the right of the face....The End I wanted to put this thread together to help players that have never hit a draw or players that want to reduce the amount they slice/fade it. To do that we need to start moving the path more OUTward and identify what is going on with your swing to create the slice. Below you'll find a list of things I typically see slicers do. You also find me demonstrating these pieces (left pics). If you want to start drawing the ball or hitting a slight fade, STOP DOING THE THINGS ON THE SLICE LIST. One thing that's a little pet peeve of mine is how golfers love to talk about the club face when it comes to hitting draws and they usually describe the face as being "closed". While the face has to be closed to the path to draw the ball, the description can be misleading. If I was to tell someone to close their face, good chance they'll just aim the face left of the target or try to "close" the face dynamically during the swing. For a better description of ball flights, go here http://thesandtrap.com/b/playing_tips/ball_flight_laws For a draw we want to have the ball start right of the target (for a right handed golfer) and curve back to the target. The ball curves back because the path is further OUTward of the club face. So for the ball to start right of the target, this means the face has to be aimed somewhere right of the target at impact. Quick way to remember it, the ball starts where the face is pointed and curves away from the path. Typically slicers have the face aimed left of the target at impact, yet common advice for a slicer is that need to "release it" and that they need to be more relaxed to allow the toe to pass over the heel. It's just flat out bad information. Rolling the toe over more won't really help because it does two things: it's orients the face left and can move the club head more INward or left. So if you slice it the culprit isn't the face, it's the club path! The path is too INward or too much across the ball. Slice List Here's a list of all the pieces I'm demonstrating in the left pics for the slice swing. Again, the reason you slice it is because the path is well Inward or left of the club face, these are the pieces that are contributing to that problem. This doesn't mean that you have ALL of these issues, if there was a "model" slicer swing, this is what they would do. You might only need to fix two or three of them to move the path more OUTward so you can draw it or play a slight fade. - Weak or palmy left hand grip - Shoulders aimed left - Knees rotated inward - Lack of axis tilt (spine is vertical) - Hips slide back on the backswing - Minimal turn on the backswing - Weight doesn't go forward on the downswing - Club head is outside the hands at A6 (club shaft parallel to the ground on the downswing) - Lack of Key #3, the shaft and lead arm line up well before impact - Club head overtakes the hands at a fast rate. Draw List Here's the list of all the draw pieces I'm implementing in the pics/video. Just like with the slice list above, you don't need to implement all these pieces in order to draw it/fade it. I would start with the set-up stuff, it doesn't take any skill to have a good grip and address the ball correctly - "Good" grip, left hand is in the fingers, heel pad on top - Aim your body parallel left or slight right of the target - Feet are flared, knees are rotated out slightly - Axis tilt due to the hips being a few inches forward with the head not moving forward - Hips turn, left hip stays forward - Shaft points slightly outside the ball at A5 (lead arm parallel to the ground on the downswing) - Weight is well forward at impact, allows me to achieve Key #3 Inline Impact - "Stretching" the arm into the followthrough 100% Guarantee Draw Pattern For the pics below, rather than describe what not to do I'll be mostly pointing out what I'm doing in the right pics, the "draw" examples. Again the swings on the right are me putting in ALL the draws pieces. If $1000 was on the line and I had to draw the golf ball (and start it right of the target), this is the procedure I would use. A1 Feet are turned out, knees are rotated out slightly. This will make it much easier for me to turn my hips, which will allow my torso to rotate. Left hand grip is in the fingers, heel pad on top. If the grip is weak, it's going to be difficult to create or sustain "lag". If the club shaft lines up with the lead forearm before impact, the club path can start to rotate left. Hips are "bumped" a few inches forward while not moving the head forward which creates some axis tilt. Handle is forward. Golfers that slice are tried of seeing the ball go right so they start to aim more and more left, this only rotates the swing direction more left, meaning you're only making the problem worse. On the right, body lines are square or slightly right. For the example I rotated them right, helps pre-set a little rightward path. I want to point out that I'm only aimed right with my body a few degrees, anymore than that and you might find yourself swinging INward because path can be instinctual. This means that you know you're aiming away from the target and will swing on a path trying to start the ball more online with the target. Basically don't aim 20-30 yards right of your final target. A3 Hips turn with the left hip staying forward. Note the difference in the amount of torso rotation. Try to get in the 80-90 degree range by A3. A4 Being able to turn a good amount has allowed my hands/arms to gain depth. This is going to help me swing OUT on the downswing. Same kind of thing as A3, hips have continued to turn, left hip is forward, head is steady. A5 Since I turned my hips and my hands on were able to travel inward on the backswing, I still have some "depth" at A5, I have space to move my hands down and OUT. Kind of had to cheat with the lines on this one Typically see slicers with the shaft pointing inside the ball at A5, players that draw the ball will have it pointed at or just outside the ball. If the shaft points inside the ball, the club is going to want and travel across the ball. A6 Similar theme to the A5 pics. Club outside the hands on the left, club path will be left. On the right club is inside the hands (the fact that I'm rotated more right at set-up makes it look more "in" than it actually is). My lead wrist is flat to slightly bowed (palmar flexed) on the right. In the left pic there will be some cup or dorsiflexion. The club head being inside the hands at A6 doesn't "guarantee" that you'll draw it, I've seen some players actually fade it because they start rolling their forearms and the face "wipes" across the ball. So make sure to stretch the arms into the followthrough. A7 On the left the shaft and lead forearm lines up well before impact. On the right, good example of Inline Impact. Importance of Key #2, Weight/Pressure/Force favoring the lead side at impact. Note how the weight is forward with axis tilt, helps me swing OUTward longer. A9 Full release on the left! On the right, I'm "stretching" my arms. Again doing everything I can to make sure the club is moving out. I don't want to pull my arms apart and have the club head "wipe" across the ball. Yes you can hit draws all day without having to "roll the toe over". You may have noticed that I talk a lot about Keys 1-3, they are every important, especially when it comes to hitting the ball solid and drawing it. If you're wondering what the heck I mean by Keys, please check this out
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