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Handicap Index

Found 59 results

  1. I've been Playing Golf for: 25 years off and on. I retired from the military in 2016 and want to play more. With my new job I have time to get out more. But I have only been playing about twice a year. I want to learn more and play more. Getting discouraged with my play ends up pushing my clubs to the basement and I give up. I want to stick with it and learn to play better and enjoy the game. My current handicap index or average score is: Average Score usually high 90 to 110 My typical ball flight is: All over. New driver and relearning everything from grip to stance to swing The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: hard slices. I want to be able to hit it straight and maybe play a fade. But most of all I want to feel comfortable with my swing and ball flight. Please be nice. LOL. I'm open to whatever help or tips you are willing to give. Thank you in advance. Videos:
  2. Hi. I have a question and wanted to see what you guys thought. Some background: I'm not a particularly fast player (e.g., low to mid 150's ball speed with driver; low 120's ball speed with a traditional loft 6i.). I used to take the club back flat, come over it initially, but jump to shallow it out. I had a strong grip and I had days where a nice push draw was achievable; other days, it was military golf. Nowadays, I play with a more neutral grip and have much less dynamic movement. I more or less play with some forward shaft lean at address and feel like I hinge the toe up quickly toward my face (to get the club more upright instead of my flat takeaway) while trying to stay more "Kevin Kisner/Charley Hoffman still." The downswing is just swing down and through the ball quickly, feeling the head of the club hit down on/cover/trap the ball and taking a nice divot like a club tracking down a hula hoop where the ball is collected on the way down. I use a simulator, so I work hard on my start line as well. I like to see a 0* azimuth/start line or there about to feel more control over the ball and I'll just adjust my aim for my draw. I mostly hit the ball relatively straight or with a slight draw or if I heel it slightly, it'll fade a bit, but nothing disastrous. I'm relatively comfortable hitting every club in my bag except driver. I'm at a loss with driver. It's so bad. Last time I played, I had little clue where to look for the ball and with my eyes, it's hard to see the ball in the air. That brings me to the issue: I hit the ball pretty solid for my speed. With driver, the problem appears to be figuring out the shape I want to play, the face angle I should have, and how I should aim. First, I'm terrified of a draw with driver. I'll hook it, push it, or maybe get the odd push draw I'm looking for. I've gone the way of the fade. I just feel like I can swing as fast as I want and not fear a disastrous shot and lose a ball. I understand the ball flight laws and I know that the face should be closed to my intended target but open to my path and that face angle for the large part dictates start line. I get that. I also know that with the ball teed up off my front foot, that will allow me to swing up and left to get my path left to hit the fade. For some reason, I feel like I swing faster when hitting a fade with driver. It feels more natural to swing left and hit the cutter. The problem is figuring out the optimal start line. Like I said, with my approach shots, I like to get as close to 0* start line as I can, even with any curve--I just pick a tree or something to the right a little and let it draw back slightly. But I really like trying to get as neutral/straight of a start line as I can--I feel more in control of the ball that way. With a fade driver, I feel like I should toe the club in (somewhere around 7 to 8:30 on the clock) and swing more left. This has given me great results--high flying, low spin fades that start left of straight and bend back toward 0*. When I toe the club in relative to 0*, I feel like I can just let it rip. It'll fade back but rarely over fades, if anything it might just hang there. Right now, I have my driver set to 8*, draw setting on hosel, and weight in the heel as well. The question: Should I, 1) like with my approach shots, strive for a 0* start line and just adjust my aim or 2) strive for a start line of a few degrees left? The problem with #1 seems to be an issue with the ball flight laws. If I keep my swing the same (swinging more left), then I feel like a face angle around 0* will result in what looks like a big push fade. But I do like the idea of controlling my start line and having it more on straight like my approach shots. However, with driver, I do not like the feeling of starting the ball straight because I feel like the ball will only go more to the right from there and I'll lose the ball. The problem with #2 seems to be an issue of knowing how far left to start the ball. For instance, during my last practice session I had start lines just a few degrees to the left (2-4* left) all the way up to 12* left. The 12* left ball was a good ball, 157 mph ball speed, with just a tiny fade on it. I guess a bit of a pull fade. The best ball I hit was a 162 mph pull fade as well. I admit, I like the pull fade feeling best. I just feel like I get through the ball better and hit it more solidly. However, it does make for a different swing and start line than all my other clubs in the bag. Also, I wonder about aiming here. Depending on how much left I start the ball, I may actually need to aim more RIGHT even though I'm playing a FADE due to the nature of the pull fade. Thanks for any tips you might have. I look forward to the responses.
  3. Hi All, I have been hitting a Tour Edge Driver with a 12* loft and a 12* offset. Senior Flex. (2017) It has been disappointing. It brought my distance down to 200 yards and sometimes less. (Carry) I finally went back to my Ignite (Nike) 450cc and no offset with a 10.5* loft. Regular Flex. (2005-2006) Immediately, my control came back and my distance went back to 220 yards and a little more sometimes. I was hoping to get back to 240 yards and probably will as I build my strength back up. The Ignite Driver is just a little heavier and somewhat harder to control when I get tired. Right now, if I get too tired, I just hit my 3 wood off the tee and stay in the fairway. Searching on the internet, I found the most forgiving driver (rated) is the Cobra F-Max. I found one fairly reasonable on EBay but it is a 460cc club head. I am 73 years old and soon to be 74 years old. Excellent health, but with Parkinson's in my right hand, which causes me to tire out a little when playing 18 + holes. My question is: Would I be able to feel the weight difference in 10cc's? I am leaning toward getting this driver but if it is too heavy from the start, I will search for a 450cc. Your thoughts and comments appreciated. (smart remarks will be graded 🧐 ) Retired Old Man
  4. I've started hitting some awful tee shots lately, my bad tendencies come out most with driver so i'll attach the video of my driver swing. I have been hitting it absolutely everywhere sometimes a pull slices other time a push fade. Any feedback is more than welcome. Thanks
  5. PING - Blogs Pretty good article from Chris Broadie, the head of fitting science at Ping, showing the advantage of hitting the ball straighter. Outliers like Bubba Watson (he's mentioned in the article) aside, better players tend to curve the ball less. That makes sense. Straighter shots are more accurate and more predictable, so it would lead to better golf scores. Chris demonstrates the effect of large curves by using a tour pro's impact variability and simulating straight shots ( average of 0° face-to-path) vs a big draw (average of -6° face-to-path) So if the average tour player were to hit drives with large curves, he would lose 24 yards off the tee and gain 12% accuracy. People always like to have the distance vs accuracy debate, but I don't think anyone can reasonably argue that 12% accuracy is worth losing 2-3 clubs for on the second shot. He does point out that the accuracy can be advantageous. I suppose if you hit the ball 320 yards, you can afford to hit it 296 yards to get a better chance at hitting the fairway when you really need to. The 1.1 strokes per round is significant though. That's a lot of strokes the simulated tour player is giving up off the tee with the bigger curve. A more realistic scenario for a tour player looks like this: Here you can see the difference between the straight shot vs the curved shot is negligible. So a curve is not bad in and of itself, but too much curve and you're not getting the most out of your drives.
  6. I've been Playing Golf for: 20 years My current handicap index or average score is: 80 My typical ball flight is: straight/weak draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Short drives. Videos: I'm 6' and 200 lbs.; pretty strong and flexible. I feel like I should be hitting 280-300 yard drives. Is it that I'm not generating enough clubhead speed? Releasing too early? Out of sync somewhere? In the head-on video (video 1), I can see an early release where my wrists uncock before impact. I never would have guessed that was happening without the slow motion proof. The other two don't look like I'm doing that, but still only getting 250 or 260 MAX, and that's on a good day. I also noticed in these that I start the downswing simultaneously with the weight shift. I feel like there should be a slight pause at the top as I start unwinding. Any suggestions for getting a better feel for holding lag and generating more clubhead speed? Thanks in advance.
  7. This video sums up my frustration as a golfer. I can usually hit my irons, hybrid and woods just fine, but when it comes to my driver, consistency is out the window. I imagine I early extend, as seen in the video, with every club, but it’s always most apparent in ball flight with my driver. This shot happened to fly fairly straight, but often, the ball won’t get more than 10 feet off the ground and severely Duck-hook left. Or, the opposite will happen, with the club face being left wide open and the ball traveling miles to the right. I feel like I’ve tried everything, trying to feel weight in the heels on the backswing and coming through, weakened grip, keeping head still, right pocket/left pocket back drill, all with the same results. Anyone out there see anything I’m missing here? Thanks I've been Playing Golf for: 10 years My current handicap index or average score is: 80s My typical ball flight is: draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is
  8. High everyone, I have got myself in a bind and need some advice and some thinking, other than my own. In 2018, I ordered a Tour Edge, Hot Launch 2, Driver with a 12* offset. Picture below. I think my loft angle is also 12*. (Maybe Not 12* Loft) It has a Senior Flex Shaft. I really like it. It is easy to hit and 99% of the time is straight down the fairway. If I have a really good fairway lie I can hit in out in the fairway. (About 210 to 225 yards off the tee, at Fort Hays playing grass greens) The problem is, the ball flies too high and I lose distance. I play in a windy location and as a rule wind up about 20 yards short on my drives. I can tee it lower but when I do, it becomes harder to hit the sweet spot and thus I may not get a good drive as I usually do. I started playing "Grass Greens'" at Fort Hays Municipal Golf Course. On the Sand Greens that I play, the fairway is usually a "Buffalo Grass" fairway. This is a real thin grass and very hard ground. Thus, when I hit the Hot Launch, I get a lot of roll after the ball lands. (Easily 20 to 30 yards and farther.) If I take the Hot Launch to Fort Hays, my drives usually take a single bounce and quit rolling, due to thick grass fairways. So,,,,,,I had the opportunity to buy a Taylor Made RBZ Driver. (Early this summer) I like it but it did take some getting used to before I started getting good drives. It is an adjustable loft and I have it set on 9.5* and is a "Stiff Shaft." Picture below. I hit the Taylor Made well. (About 250 to 265 yards off the tee.) The problem is if I get tired, the Taylor Made is not as forgiving as the Hot Launch. ( So, I have to concentrate on slowing my back swing down and hitting it more relaxed) The plus side is I usually can drive farther using the Taylor Made. If I am playing well and in my groove ,the Taylor Made seems to be the better driver. My golf bag is full and I would have to remove a 4 iron to carry both drivers. I have no trouble with the stiff shaft, as all of my clubs are stiff shafts. The Hot Launch is my only Senior Flex Club. I just hate seeing my Hot Launch gathering dust in my garage, but I like the extra distance I get from the Taylor Made. Your opinion and thoughts please. Would you ditch the 4 iron and carry 2 drivers or would you focus on playing with a single driver? Retired Old Man P.S.> Earlier this year I traded my MXD irons for a Senior Flex, graphite, Warrior Irons. I had a terrible time with them. Several players told me I wasn't ready for Senior Flex Clubs. So, I traded my senior flex irons for my old original stiff shaft MXD irons. Even at 72 years old, I play well using stiff shafts. I could probably get a little more distance going to a more flexible shaft but when I payed the Warrior irons my accuracy suffered a lot.
  9. Hello Everybody, I have really been improving my iron ball striking and getting some straight shots, which is great. However, my driver has fallen ill. Every swing lately has been a low hook that goes left and stays left and usually ends up unplayable. The last time that I was hitting the driver straight, I found that moving the ball unnaturally far back in my stance (about the middle of the stance or maybe even a touch back) gave me a straight-ish shot. However, the ball was still very low. Logically, I think I should start looking at my club head at address to see if it is closed. And I will. But I wanted to see if the crowd had any suggestions. I also don't think the club head would address the flight of the ball too much. I may be wrong there. At any rate, I've never felt comfortable swinging my driver, almost like I have little control over it versus swinging irons. So I'm interested in hearing your thoughts. Thanks!
  10. Please help! My drives fly out good for 50 yards and dive to the earth. 1 out of 10 I crush. Driver is 10*. I know the mere possibility of topspin is a hotter debate than creation vs evolution. I hope the embed works. If not here's the link. https://vimeo.com/333190194 I've been Playing Golf for: 6 months My current handicap index or average score is: zero My typical ball flight is: bad The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: driver Videos: https://vimeo.com/333190194
  11. Recently torn intercostal muscles on left hand side. Was wondering if there's is anything wrong with my swing that has caused this or whether it's just overuse as I've been going to the range a fair bit. I'm very new to the game so have no idea really how to analyse the video. I know I could swing a bit further back on my back-swing but other than that, not much idea. Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks I've been Playing Golf for: 3 months My current handicap index or average score is: Don't have one My typical ball flight is: Slight Draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Anything without clean contact Videos: Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views.
  12. PING Introduces G410 Drivers with moveable weight Technology Significant advancements in custom fitting while delivering golfers the highest MOI’s and ball speeds available highlight the new PING G410 Plus and G410 SFT drivers. The multi-material drivers are available for pre-order today, and custom fitting at authorized PING golf shops around the world beginning in mid February. Ping G410 Announcement From Ping:
  13. Bought a new to me shaft pull Hzrdus black 6.5. Cleaned it all up and went to install the adapter and noticed there was alot of pressure. Got it installed and tried it out and it was like a steel rod. My average ss is 118 and I have a pretty aggressive transition. Pulled it off and tried to clean the tip out. Got 3.5 inches into the shaft and it was still solid?!? Did something change? Are shafts not hollow anymore? Dont want to dig further in and break something.
  14. In line with another thread about which driver you own, what factors went into buying your current driver. You can select more than one factor. I can add more factors if anyone has good additional ones.
  15. Hey guys. Earlier this year I tore my calf and was in a walking boot for 6 weeks. Ever I’ve come back, I’ve had a nasty slice. Before I was working the ball both ways with ease. I have had a couple golf buddies it looks like my hands just release late. I can. Hit a draw and fade with everything but my driver. It’s getting frustrating. I’ve tried an in to out path for a draw but it just seems to be a push slice. It may be hard with no video. But does anyone have some ideas?
  16. How are you long ball guys wrapping your drivers ? I’ve went to the same set up as my baseball bats , using lizard skins .5 wraps seems to help the wrist actions swing speed is around 136mph when I really go for it with the long drive shaft golfing shaft is like 129mph
  17. Hi, this is my first post. I would appreciate some advice please. I have got old irons (Mizuno Pro II t zoids with regular steel shafts) and a Mizuno 600 driver (approx 2009). my handicap is 4.9. my fairways hit with driver is 53% greens in reg 36%. I have a shotscope 2 which is excellent for feedback. i went for an iron fitting but the quote was £2000 which is too expensive for me. The main benefit with the new irons would be 18-20 yards more distance per club. The dispersion was not improved. I have booked a driver fitting tomorrow. I just dont don’t know whether I should change my irons or driver? I’m finding hard to decide and don’t want to waste a lot of money. My driver clubhead speed is 103.5 Thank you Kind regards
  18. I used to be able to hit driver. It wasn’t always accurate. But I still hit it. Now something has gone wrong.... my swings off and I can’t figure it out. I can feel it though. In my wrist. It’s like it’s rolling. But I can’t find a swing plane that keeps the wrist from rolling. I was wondering if anyone could give me pointers? I have a scramble tomorrow and I would like to be able to carry my team on drives because they’re older gentleman(40-60) and I’m 21 so I’m hoping to get this dialed in by tomorrow. If I can get the swing plane and wrist down right I can get the accuracy down quick. All my other clubs are accurate. 915D2. Even though it doesn’t matter. Just thought the Titleist guys would help me quicker
  19. So im going to be buying a new shaft for a driver i bought. dont like the shaft at all. its a 915D head. When i cut the shaft how should i measure it? I need a 43 inch shaft, thats what i was fitted for. So is that measurement from the tip of the adapter to the end of the shaft before i put the grip on? Or do i cut the shaft at 43" then put the adapter on? Thanks in advance
  20. Hi everyone, First time here posting a thread, loving reading prior to this but never participated, but now i desperately need people help lol. Ill start at the beginning. Im 28 and have been playing 15 months and am currently handicap 12.7. I started playing with a friend old beaten up idrive 12° driver aldilia vx reg shaft, and man i could bomb that driver, apart from pros i could outdrive anyone and exceptionally accurately too, were talking landing on greens on par 4's (all the while not being able to hit a single iron haha). But as christmas came around and i was getting better i thought it would special for my partner to buy me a replacment for my boom stick. So i looked around and got my heart set on the wilson fg tour f5 driver, the thing just looked gorgeous to me. Now due to the distance i was getting with the idrive, perhaps stupidly got it with the stiff shaft(50 gram fubuki z), that was my first mistake, turns out i have a swing speed of 90-96mph and couldnt hit the damn thing. So a couple of months later a friend gave me a aldilia nvs 65 lite tm-3, lovely looking shaft and looks fantastic with the wilson head, the complements i get on the looks sometimes makes me giddy. However no matter how i hit the club (centre face, nice controlled swing) or how high or low(i prefer low, the red shortees if everyones familiar) the peak of my ball flight is about 5- 10 yards off the grounds, for a little while i thought i was closing down the face, but this isnt the case no matter what i seem to do the ball just wont get up. So ive been looking at info online and on ebay and read the nvs has a low kick point whereas the fubuki z has a high point, and bearing in mind i feel the wilson head is quite heavy, very heavy against say a tm rbz, i was wondering if this is where my problems are coming from? As im hitting the ball with a heavy head is it flexing too much? See, i dont mind spending the money on a 3rd shaft (fubuki z 50 reg) if its going to solve the problem, but this isnt the case and i do, then ive wasted stupid money just to end up getting rid of the thing and probably going for a cobra f6.... Please any insight from people who know what they're talking about would be soo appreciated, and i would certainly owe u a drink. Oh, and should mention due the the low ball flight i use the 0g weight and my old driver being set quite high, i set it at 11.5 deg the next setting up would be 12.5 deg and i just feel that would be ridiculous. Please no tee suggestions, if the tee exists ive tried it. Thank you very much in advance
  21. So here is my situation. I was playing a Ping G25 with a tour x-stiff shaft and 10.5 loft. It was about 5 years old and about 2 weeks ago, it snapped due to a bad swing. Being that it was 5 years old, I opted to check out something different. I went to a place that does club fitting and I registered a swing speed between 99 and 111 mph with an average being about 106 mph so a move down to a stiff shaft was recommended. After trying a Ping G400, Callway Rogue Sub Zero, a Titleist 917 D3 (I believe) and a Taylormade M2, I decided to take the Taylormade. I hit all of the clubs pretty similarly with the exception of the Titleist. I chose the Taylormade because I seemed to have a lower spin rate and the ball flight was more consistent. The problem is, I'm consistently hitting this driver 25-50 yards shorter than my previous driver. I am keeping it in the fairway, but I had no real trouble with that before. Does anyone have thoughts regarding the loss of distance?
  22. Hi everyone, I'm in the market for a new driver, but trying to keep cost down. I'm currently looking at the JPX 850 and the Callaway BB Alpha 816 BBD. Anyone used either and which would you good folks recommend? New here, so thanks in advance:)
  23. Ok, let me start off with that I am 100% new to the game. Went to the driving range for the first time today. I have my driver set at 11. Hit 75 balls and maybe 5 got decent loft. The rest were line drives about a foot off the ground. Please, any tips or opinions would be appreciated.
  24. I've been Playing Golf for: 16 years My current handicap index or average score is: 2.5 My typical ball flight is: medium-high draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: snap hook Videos: DL FO
  25. Hey everybody, I’m pretty new to golf and just purchased a used Cleveland Classic 270 driver from second swing to upgrade my starter set driver. It was rated an 8. The club looks great except for an ugly scratch on the face. Must have hit a rock or something. Looks almost like a nail was dragged on it. So does this ruin the club? I can return it if so. I just honestly don’t know how much it will affect the ball when hit. Hopefully you can see in the pictures, the scratch starts under the shaft and travels down to the bottom center. Thanks!
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