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Handicap Index

Found 7 results

  1. Hi. I have a question and wanted to see what you guys thought. Some background: I'm not a particularly fast player (e.g., low to mid 150's ball speed with driver; low 120's ball speed with a traditional loft 6i.). I used to take the club back flat, come over it initially, but jump to shallow it out. I had a strong grip and I had days where a nice push draw was achievable; other days, it was military golf. Nowadays, I play with a more neutral grip and have much less dynamic movement. I more or less play with some forward shaft lean at address and feel like I hinge the toe up quickly toward my face (to get the club more upright instead of my flat takeaway) while trying to stay more "Kevin Kisner/Charley Hoffman still." The downswing is just swing down and through the ball quickly, feeling the head of the club hit down on/cover/trap the ball and taking a nice divot like a club tracking down a hula hoop where the ball is collected on the way down. I use a simulator, so I work hard on my start line as well. I like to see a 0* azimuth/start line or there about to feel more control over the ball and I'll just adjust my aim for my draw. I mostly hit the ball relatively straight or with a slight draw or if I heel it slightly, it'll fade a bit, but nothing disastrous. I'm relatively comfortable hitting every club in my bag except driver. I'm at a loss with driver. It's so bad. Last time I played, I had little clue where to look for the ball and with my eyes, it's hard to see the ball in the air. That brings me to the issue: I hit the ball pretty solid for my speed. With driver, the problem appears to be figuring out the shape I want to play, the face angle I should have, and how I should aim. First, I'm terrified of a draw with driver. I'll hook it, push it, or maybe get the odd push draw I'm looking for. I've gone the way of the fade. I just feel like I can swing as fast as I want and not fear a disastrous shot and lose a ball. I understand the ball flight laws and I know that the face should be closed to my intended target but open to my path and that face angle for the large part dictates start line. I get that. I also know that with the ball teed up off my front foot, that will allow me to swing up and left to get my path left to hit the fade. For some reason, I feel like I swing faster when hitting a fade with driver. It feels more natural to swing left and hit the cutter. The problem is figuring out the optimal start line. Like I said, with my approach shots, I like to get as close to 0* start line as I can, even with any curve--I just pick a tree or something to the right a little and let it draw back slightly. But I really like trying to get as neutral/straight of a start line as I can--I feel more in control of the ball that way. With a fade driver, I feel like I should toe the club in (somewhere around 7 to 8:30 on the clock) and swing more left. This has given me great results--high flying, low spin fades that start left of straight and bend back toward 0*. When I toe the club in relative to 0*, I feel like I can just let it rip. It'll fade back but rarely over fades, if anything it might just hang there. Right now, I have my driver set to 8*, draw setting on hosel, and weight in the heel as well. The question: Should I, 1) like with my approach shots, strive for a 0* start line and just adjust my aim or 2) strive for a start line of a few degrees left? The problem with #1 seems to be an issue with the ball flight laws. If I keep my swing the same (swinging more left), then I feel like a face angle around 0* will result in what looks like a big push fade. But I do like the idea of controlling my start line and having it more on straight like my approach shots. However, with driver, I do not like the feeling of starting the ball straight because I feel like the ball will only go more to the right from there and I'll lose the ball. The problem with #2 seems to be an issue of knowing how far left to start the ball. For instance, during my last practice session I had start lines just a few degrees to the left (2-4* left) all the way up to 12* left. The 12* left ball was a good ball, 157 mph ball speed, with just a tiny fade on it. I guess a bit of a pull fade. The best ball I hit was a 162 mph pull fade as well. I admit, I like the pull fade feeling best. I just feel like I get through the ball better and hit it more solidly. However, it does make for a different swing and start line than all my other clubs in the bag. Also, I wonder about aiming here. Depending on how much left I start the ball, I may actually need to aim more RIGHT even though I'm playing a FADE due to the nature of the pull fade. Thanks for any tips you might have. I look forward to the responses.
  2. Hi, recently I've been hitting my irons poorly from fairway. Duffs, tops, also hitting the ball "all over" the club face. But on the driving range, I can hit bucket after bucket with almost no bad shots. (And fairway woods shors are pretty good from both mat and grass.) I know that the mat "hides" bad shots, especially duffs, but is there any drill I can do on the mats? It's not easy to find a driving range that allows you to play from grass where I live. Or can this be a mental thing? When going from practice to play? Any advice is welcome!
  3. Recently torn intercostal muscles on left hand side. Was wondering if there's is anything wrong with my swing that has caused this or whether it's just overuse as I've been going to the range a fair bit. I'm very new to the game so have no idea really how to analyse the video. I know I could swing a bit further back on my back-swing but other than that, not much idea. Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks I've been Playing Golf for: 3 months My current handicap index or average score is: Don't have one My typical ball flight is: Slight Draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Anything without clean contact Videos: Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views.
  4. PING Introduces G410 Fairway Woods, Hybrids & Crossovers Ping G410 Fairway, Hybrid and Crossover Announcement Other Features: Maraging-Steel Face Technology A Focus on Forgiveness PING’s First Adjustable Hybrid Hose
  5. Some of us remember the original Steelhead fairways of the late '90's, and it was Callaway's best selling fairway with a rounded sole profile and unique sole design to power through various conditions and a deep face. Step forward 20 years and Doc Hoc and Callaway R&D bring you the modern Steelhead. Callaway has updated the sole design for efficiency through the turf, given it their latest cup face, and a J36 Carbon crown to move COG low to launch the ball with its deep face. It's also priced $50 less than its Epic fairway. The J36 crown is not as light as the more expensive Epic crown, which also has adjustability. The Steelhead XR's are glued hosels coming in regular models of 3,5, 7 and 9 wds; and the + models, which are 13.5 and 16 for better/tour players. I've spent 4 rounds and several range sessions with the 5 wood and recently acquired the 3 and 7 woods. Fun clubs with distance. Not really game improvement but can be - it's a fairway for all player types. I found the Steelhead XR is designed for real life course conditions -- from ease out of the rough and fairway, and a monster off the tee with that deep face. Haven't tried a bunker yet. The rounded sole and deep face matters. Doc Hoc said this fairway is not driver DNA like their other fairways, but fairway DNA - meaning it is meant for various conditions and lies. Address: set it down and club sits square. Pick it up and and you may close it. The deep face has a good amount of bulge from heel to toe but the white painted grooves give you the center position. Feel/Sound: HIgh metallic, pleasing crack, hot feel.Deep face: tee it high, let it fly - forget shallow face misgivings off the tee, this deep face makes it easy and long off the tee. Long, long. Don't know about Epic long, but as you know, people react differently to different heads. I found them long with a smile on my face. Demo.Shaft: Tensei Fairway Shaft (it is not the driver shaft) is softer/smoother at both ends than the Tensei driver shaft. The profile is based on the Blueboard shaft - mid launch/mid spin smooth. The 56-59g 55 seems to hold up to most swings and is fine off the deck. No ballooning. After swinging the 5 wd for 3 weeks and 4 rounds, all I can say is that I'm having fun with the club.Performance: Off the fairway, I earn a high mid to lowish high trajectory depending on speed and swing. I am just an R flex and I'm getting 220+ off the deck in decent conditions and warm temps, and more off the tee. It is excellent, comparatively speaking, out of the rough than your normal fairway. This is more of a total distance club than a carry monster. Ball takes off like a rocket on a mid to mid high trajectory, descending shallow, and then rolls. I drove a 265 par 4 a couple of times at Pacific Grove (okay, so that hole had some downhill features). Earned max 230 with roll with the 5 wd, in warm temps, 70-90F, slightly downhill or flat conditions. Against a strong ocean wind, I was getting 200 with a lowish trajectory. Hiit a few tee shots that ended up at 260-270 in favorable conditions. It is a total distance club. Mishits - fats go lower and roll far, face turns over and ball rolls left at end, thins go lowish, straight, far - dependent on dry conditions. Very forgiving if you are looking at the deep face, rounded sole, and wondering about launch.Again, Steelhead is not a GI fairway in the sense that it does not appear overly large at address, ballon, spin too much, or launch too high in my experience - it's like a piercing high mid to lowish high rocket launcher that rolls.I ended up also buying the 3 wood in the 55g shaft - it flat out launches off the tee like a driver's flight - arcs a bit and descends slowly. Off the deck at 15 degree, I am earning a mid flight with great roll. Bought the 7 wd in the 65g shaft and it is also a monster. Was concerned about the 65g bringing flight down, but in the 7 wd, it gets up. I think the 5 wd, if you were buying only one, is an ideal fairway. I am a tweener in terms of flex with a 95 driver speed. But I opted for R flex, and find the club controllable, not a lot of spin, no ballooning. I would not go "caveman" on shaft. The Tensei 55 will fit most players in the lower lofts. See www.callaway.com to build a club and see many no upcharge shaft choices.What I've heard about the + fairways (13.5 and 16), is that they are meant for the better/tour player - weight is a bit more forward, flatter lie angle by 2 degrees, neutral to fade bias, tough to turn over. Watch the shaft choice - may want the 55g here. The + are too much club for me, but for others, it's what they want.Fun club. Check them out if you are looking for a versatile fairway. Picture - you see a comparison of the Steelhead XR at the top versus the XR16.
  6. From the album: Memorial 2016

    © 2016, Erik J. Barzeski

  7. Need advice; I am coming back to the game of golf after a back injury and am finally ready to purchase a new set. All this new technology is confusing and I have roughly a $2000 budget to cover bag, balls, driver, irons etc. My handicap I'm unsure of but a few years ago I was hitting in high 90s. Was using Callaway's 'til I gave them away. Thought I'd never play again! I am looking at Ping G, Taylor Made M2, Callaway xr I think, and a bunch of others. They all say their the best, but what I am after is nice ball height, good feel, and forgiveness ( I tend to slice ). If you had @ 2 grand what would you buy and why?
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