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Handicap Index

Found 20 results

  1. I was recently fitted for a new set of Ping i500 irons. I was playing an older set of Mizuno JPX 800 pros. After a few hours on the range, it didn’t look like the new irons were going longer. The lofts on the i500 are about 2 degrees less than my mizuno (long to mid iron, pw and gw are the same) My 7-iron is about a 170 yard club, but I seem to be about 5-10 yards shorter with the new irons. During the fitting, I went thru about 4 different shafts before I got something that gave me good numbers in the Trackman. Does anyone have any experience in this area? I know the i500 has been promoted as being longer, so I wasn’t expecting less distance.
  2. So im going to be buying a new shaft for a driver i bought. dont like the shaft at all. its a 915D head. When i cut the shaft how should i measure it? I need a 43 inch shaft, thats what i was fitted for. So is that measurement from the tip of the adapter to the end of the shaft before i put the grip on? Or do i cut the shaft at 43" then put the adapter on? Thanks in advance
  3. Ok I’m am convinced that getting fit for the correct clubs can help your game but until now I never considered the possibility that playing the wrong clubs can hinder your performance to a point where it really damages your whole game. I recently went and had a driver fitting. Before starting I was given a 7 iron to warm up with. After a dozen hits I had an average swing speed of 98mph with the 7 iron. Now 12 months ago when I got serious about golf I brought a secondhand set of cobra baffled irons with regular flex shafts. They are nice and easy to hit but as the year has gone on my consistency on the course had not improved and I am still only hitting about 30% fairways even though I only use irons. So I realise and have also been told by a couple of pros that these irons are not designed for me but for much lower swing speeds but not until the last week have a started to think that they may be the cause of my inconsistency. Has anybody else who had similar experience to me I would be great to hear from. I am really starting to loose confidence in my game.
  4. Hi. Im getting the new Marxman 2018 model. I really like the alignment aid. However, I am really confused when it comes to the face balanced option vs the toe hang option. The more I read, the more I get confused. There are few, if any putter fittings in Norway, so Im basically buying blindly. There is a lot of talk about arc = toe hang, sbst = face balanced, but then again others say that nearly every putting stroke has some arc. I know my putting technique is most likely poor, but it is alignment I have struggled with the most, specially on shorter puts. Resulting in 3 puts almost every time, some 4 puts and the occasional 5 put :( Im playing of 28 handicap after two seasons (that's 6 months each year), where Ive been playing 10-15 times a year. I have somewhat of an arc in my putting stroke, but I have a shorter backstroke, and longer follow through. I also like to stand closer to the ball when I putt, and think the lie angle of the "toe hang" models I`ve tried in the store makes me stand a bit longer away from the ball. Any suggestions? Thanks
  5. I'm all for getting fit for new clubs. However, I only have one set that I would classify as being "fitted". Also, I play with some guys who regularly score in the 70's who never have been "fitted" for their clubs as TST members understand fitting. It may just be the way they always have done things. In other cases, though, fitting may not be available to many for various reasons such as distance to fitting center locations, or cost, or what is offered is really static, not what TST members think of being fitting. And, also related to my question, there was a time when club fitting as TST members think of it either didn't exist or was not available. So there had to be/have to be alternative methods of choosing the clubs for the golfer's swing and game. What are the alternative methods to fitting that folks do or have used to arrive at a good club selection? Thanks, -Marv
  6. Hey guys what's up. Have you ever thought about the importance of the golf ball and being fit for it? I would like to start a discussion on this topic. Let me know. If you don't yet know the difference between different balls I suggest taking a look here: https://www.golfgalaxy.com/s/golf-ball-comparison-chart It merely scratches the surface but it is very helpful in my opinion.
  7. Hey all, I live quite north (Edmonton AB), and it's gotten a bit cold to be out on the range or the course. I recently made a bit of a swing change that got rid of my dreaded late flip at impact, and have hit at the range but not on the course. I felt like I was hitting it a bit further and more solidly, but wasn't sure on my club gapping (have never been 100% on this) so I went into a local indoor facility to see if I could get a good idea on what was going on. It was an aboutgolf 3Trak system, which I was told should be fairly accurate as far as indoor systems go, but I was quite surprised by my distances. They seemed a little too deep on some clubs. I went back to my flippy at impact swing a few times to get a baseline and it was bang on for my previous course distances, but I'm still skeptical. Anyone have any experience with these systems? How reliable should I consider the data I was getting back? I did remove the outliers (obvious spin misreads), from my averages, but still would be uncomfortable with these distances on the course.
  8. I got my current set of irons about six years ago. I know I obsessively used the Mizuno swing optimizer to select a shaft. I ended up with FST 115, stiff flex, soft stepped, -1/2". I have had some great rounds and great shots with these irons. These are not Mizuno irons (they are Maltby K-30s). I was debating a new set of irons, and in part I was wondering if this was still the right fit for me. I know I deluded myself about a number of things back then, and I've found posts from that era when I say I hit an 8-iron 135 yards (for reference, that's a toss up of 6- or 7-iron for me at the moment). I bet I hit very few GIRs back then if that was my thinking (I didn't keep as detailed records as you'd think). There was a convenient Ping Demo / Fitting day near me at a Roger Dunn a few days ago that had a launch monitor, so I figured I'd go try. If I were to get a new set of irons, Ping's offerings are at the top of the list (I marginally prefer the look over Titleist APs, and also their partnership with TST would break the tie in their favor). My goal was to find out what, if anything, the difference would be between my current set and the Pings, plus if I decide to buy the Ping irons, now I have the specs to order. After trying many combinations (I even took practice swings before hitting the ball, trying to emulate a good range/course practice), we ended up with a suggestion for R-flex and a shaft that weighs 105g (they gave a specific one). On the store's launch monitor, I was hitting the G-400 7-iron 148-150 yards with the recommended shaft. Now, that 7-iron is one degree STRONGER than my 6-iron. Six years ago, I would have said "well, that's why I hit it so much farther," as I was quick to dismiss any set that had a PW with less than 47 degrees of loft (back before I understood there were non-marketing reasons to have these lofts). Except... I hit it more than a club further. If I need anything over 140 yards, I'm probably not hitting my 6-iron. GameGolf has my 6-iron at 136 yards. I can recall one shot where I hit my 6-iron more than 140 yards recently. I was trying to lay up short of a green that I couldn't see because of my tee shot position. I could see the greenside bunker left of the green, a little over 140 yards away and up hill. Well, I don't hit my 6-iron that far, so I'll hit that and use the bunker as a target. Guess where I ended up. Anyway, I thought I'd ask if anyone thinks I'm deluding myself (I don't think that's something I can figure out from within) about flex. If I am, and given that I'm taking lessons fairly regularly, am I possibly looking at running into a situation before too long where I should have stiff flex? Or maybe there's another factor with their clubs (they also suggest I play -1/4" not -1/2", but that's not the big difference in distance either). Can shaft flex really be that big a difference? My 31-degree iron at 136 yards, their (smaller sample size of shots hit) 30 degree at 148? Even if you think of "their 7" and "my 6" as the "same club," that's over a ten yard difference because of shaft flex (or other variables). And if it carries up the line at 10-yard increments, I'd replace 4-hybrid through PW in my set (I don't hit full shots with my GW, so I'd keep that). For what it's worth, I think my approach shots are a game strength at the moment. I lose 1.29 shots per round average on approach **compared to a 5-handicap**. I gain 1.32 per round compared to a 10-handicap (today's revision places me at a 14.0). Versus the 10 handicap, I lose .22 driving and... let's say more on the other two categories. My latest "My Swing" post includes two videos of me swinging at speed in case someone with a far better eye than I have wants to see how the shaft behaves in a swing (direct link to comment with videos (edit: or maybe just the last page of the My Swing thread?)): Thanks in advance for any insight offered! I'm up for learning more about flex, if I'm deluding myself, and for advice and suggestions about whether I should consider shaft flex changes. One other data point: two years ago or so, a Titleist rep fit me for my driver and I have stiff flex in that. I don't think I swung better then than I do now, and I don't think that shaft is mis-fit either.
  9. Hi All, Your advice is requested. I am playing again for the first time in 6 or 7 years, and picked up a cheap, old Ping G5 driver at the start of the season. It was 13º and lite-reg flex. Once I knew I was going to keep playing (who was I kidding!), I had a successful fitting session for some mizuno irons (standard lie, stiff shafts), but went somewhere else for my driver. I ended up buying a new M2, 10.5º in the stock stiff shaft, but I just can't get the distance regularly. With the G5 I was knocking it regularly 260+, where as most of my shots with the M2 are shorter, maybe 240. Disbursement is better, and the launch looks lower, so I'm not grumbling too much, but I wonder if I've been miss-fit and if thats the case then what I should do? Thanks in advance, Dan
  10. Hey Guys,Been using ping isi-k's for years and now have recently upgraded to ping ie 1's. On the isi's they were standard loft, lie and length in black code (7 of 36.75" length). They fitted well.The 2nd hand i e1's that i bought are standard loft and length (7 = 37") however the lie's are in colour purple, even with the lie being 1.5" flatter the toe of the clubs are pointing skywards too much and im hitting left of target more often.Using this ping chart im right in the middle of black which makes no sense for the i e1s (5ft 9" and 34.25" wrist to floor). I wouldn't of thought that the .25" would of made that much of a difference however the standard for those clubs being in blue may of.Unfortunately there are no ping fitters near me so i cant easily get down to one, however i can send them to ping and they will adjust foc bar shipping.Any help would be greatly appreciated as i really like these clubs but definitely need a bit of help or information regarding the lie.thanks
  11. Hello, I recently was fitted for Mizuno JPX 900 irons with a true temper XP 95 S300 shaft. During the fitting, i was told that my swing speed was around 85mph. On my long/mid irons (4-8 irons). I can't seem to hold the greens as my ball just rolls off the back. I've only played two rounds. One round on greens that were recently punched. The other was on a very hot day and greens were very firm. I have played a round with a callaway chrome soft and a vice Pro which is a new ball. I have struck the ball fairly well and have placed the ball towards the front of my stance. My question is, what recourse do i have to make these irons work? Should I bite the bullet and change the shafts? This will certainly will require more money, which would not be good. I don't think Rodger Dunn would swap out. Should i add a degree if loft? Im not even sure if this would ve an option. I know i may be overreacting very early, but this is frustrating as I paid about $1000 irons that aren't doing the job.
  12. Hi all ! Next Saturday I´m getting a Titleist fitting for my driver. I have a Titleist 915 D2, 9,5 loft (lowered to 8,75 draw setup). Shaft: Rogue Black 95MSI 70-3,3-S. I hit 250 Carry in average but everyone i play said I hit the ball to high and I agree, i hit up on the ball (AoA +) with draw. Never been fitted before, so i don´t know my swing speed, lunch angle, spin rate.. etc. Do u have any good/bad experiencies of driving fitting? Any recomendations for me to do or to check douring the fitting ? (A video of me hitting the driver it´s on the proper section of TST) Driving it´s the worst part of my game, even in length and accuracy so i hope with this fitting mybe i could improve a little bit al least one of those areas. It´s to much to ask for a fitting?
  13. In another thread, an interesting question was brought up... does the average golfer produce consistent enough swings to really do a fairly quick ball test? For those that haven't read any of my previous posts, I have been in the golf business for over 18 years. Almost 10 of those were spent as an equipment tech for Bridgestone Golf. I am no longer employed by B-stone, so I'm not promoting them and am not receiving compensation from them. This information is based on the knowledge and experience I have gathered from a hands-on view point over many years. There are different thoughts and opinions on the concept of ball fitting and which method is the best to determine the correct model. Some believe starting at the green and working backwards is the most effective way and others start with the driver and work towards the green, just like the game is played. Since the question that triggered this post was based off of a video that was demonstrating the idea that all golf ball perform almost the same off the driver, we will look at fittings that are based off of the driver. Let's discuss very quickly the reason for using the driver when fitting for golf balls instead of starting at the green with a wedge. Because the driver is the longest club in the bag with the least amount of loft, it reveals a player's tendencies and the differences in golf ball construction. If a player tends to launch the ball too low or has excessive backspin for example, the driver lets you know. When starting with a wedge, the overall performance of the ball can be masked by the effect of loft and backspin. What do I mean by that? Because a wedge is a shorter club with a lot of loft, it's very easy to hit straight (when was the last time you sliced a wedge shot?) and if the ball flight is high with a lot of spin...well, that's what you'd expect to see. But it's hard to tell if it's spinning too much (or maybe not enough). To be clear, this doesn't mean it's only fitting for the driver, or this isn't a good method because the ball needs to work on all shots and the majority of all shots are played within 100 yds of the green. I realize there are a lot of players who use Titleist balls...they are the number one selling ball, so there are a lot of loyal customers out there, and people buy into what they say. But I'd like everyone to keep an open mind and realize what I'm saying is true and it makes sense. I don't have a dog in this fight, but that doesn't mean I won't tell you if something is b.s. Claiming that using a driver for fitting only takes distance into account, or that the driver is only used 14 times but the ball needs to work on all shots is like saying if you start at the green with a wedge like Titleist recommends, you'll be playing a ball that only works on wedge shots. How is it that starting with a wedge means the ball will work with all clubs for all kinds of shots, but starting with a driver means that ball will only work with the driver? Now that we know there is a logical reason to use a driver for initial ball fitting, can a mid to high handicapper who typically has an inconsistent swing produce meaningful data by hitting 3 or 4 shots to determine the best ball for them? In all honesty, players who struggle with making contact with the ball, who top the ball or swing under it and pop it up for example will not create usable numbers. A good tech will still be able to consult with you and make a suggestion, but it won't be based off of launch monitor results. That's ok...we were all beginners at one point, but for the launch monitor to produce data we need usable shots. So what about players who make contact but their shots are inconsistent? This is pretty normal. The majority of players are mid to high handicappers, and their swings will be inconsistent...some more than others. Even if your swing is inconsistent, one thing all players have is tendencies. It doesn't matter if you're a Tour player or a 36 handicapper, every player has certain tendencies. So even if you don't hit every shot exactly the same, your tendencies will be noticeable. For example, if a player with a 100 mph swing hits 3 shots with spin rates of 3324 rpms, 2966 rpms and 3519 rpms, yes,those are all different, but they have one thing in common...they are all too high. This player has a tendency to spin the ball too much, so we know a move to a lower spinning model is needed. If you're wondering what would happen if the numbers were something like 3324, 1508, 3672 where 2 shots are way too high and one was way too low...I would suspect the 2nd shot was a mishit and have the player hit another one. Mishits will happen from time to time and should be eliminated as they will just skew the results. So I absolutely do feel that ball fitting is beneficial for all players. I welcome comments and questions that are constructive and or intriguing and will be glad to answer or explain thoughts or clear up any confusion.
  14. Hi, I made an android app (free app) for shaft length calculation and lie angle. It is especialy made for all golfers who do not fit to the standard. Mostly women, tall and short golfers. I would be glad if the app can help you: go to google play store and search for "biofitting" Please feel free to ask me or to make a review at google play store. I try to make the iTunes version too. Mike
  15. So there are some online driver deals this time of the year and I was thinking of making use of one of them. My biggest driver problem is missing toward the toe, and to a lesser extent thin. I also can (accidentally) curve the ball in either direction so specifically helping a slice or hook isn’t as important as perhaps just limiting side spin in general. I already know what length and shaft weights I like, and can play around with adjustable lofts so that’s not a problem. I found some nice deals on the Cobra F6 and Taylormade R15. The Cobra F6 has (or ties) the most rearward center of gravity of any club out there and thus has the highest MOI. A driver like that should help the most on off center hit in general. The R15 has 25 grams of left/right slidable weight which can move the center of gravity at least 1/8 inch toward the toe. Since my contact dispersion is between just a tiny inward of center to well out toward the toe that should also help a bit. The question is which would help me more? One concern with the R15 is moving the weight toward the toe will move the center of gravity in that direction relative to its neutral setting, but will it move it toward the toe relative to the Cobra or other clubs? That info is harder to come by on the web, but I might guess that most companies would tend to keep it more toward the heel if anything to help square the face for slicers. So I can move the sweet spot in the specific direction of my miss (maybe) with a club that is otherwise less forgiving, or I can go with the all round more forgiving club which may also help with thins and side spin — and for all I know might be better on toe hits as well. Thanks.
  16. I had a free afternoon so I thought it would be fun to make an appointment at the nearby fitting studio Club Champion for an iron fitting. I wasn’t sure I would necessarily buy anything but that possibility was on the table. This isn’t going to be a thorough review of their fitting process, but I’ll say it was very nice. They spent at least 1 1/2 hours not including warm up time, had massive numbers of heads and shafts, and my fitter seemed knowledgeable and attentive. A few details that came to light is that the 6 iron on my current set is 4* too strong. And my 8 iron is 2* too strong. I knew my 6 iron was my worst iron and now I discovered why. I’d also lost my 5 iron and just played around with the loft settings on a few hybrids to try and cover the gap. (I actually already know I’d lost my 5 iron). All of that and the fact that I’ve had them for maybe 8 years convinces me to go ahead and replace the set sooner than later. So on to what they are trying to sell me. The specs of my fitted irons obviously give me better launch monitor readings than any other combinations, including of course my own. The last bit practically goes without saying since they use the 6 irons for comparisons. What they do is order a built set of clubs from the OEM at retail price. Then they buy your shafts and grips, pull out the shafts that the clubs came with and throw them away, install and pure your new shafts and grips. Then check all the loft and lie angles and bend them if necessary. You also get a lifetime of loft and lie checking and adjustment if they get out of whack. For all this you spend about double what you would from the manufacturer even with with upgraded shafts. Here’s the breakdown: 7 irons: ~ $800 (Mizuno JPX900) shafts installed: $100 * 7 (Paterson KG950-IRT30 Taper) grips: $10 * 7 shafts pured: $30 * 7 Plus tax equals just under $2000. Definitely seems excessive. I’m buying a whole extra set of shafts and grips and labor from the manufacture that I don’t use. For all I know Club Champion even reuses those shafts to install in other clubs. I looked up my shaft and they have a retail value of $60. So they are charging me $40 per shaft to install PLUS and extra $30 for puring, which seems like just part of the installation. So here are some options I’m thinking of. 1. I know a very good independent club builder about an hour away — I can ask him what he’ll charge for the same thing. Still won’t be cheap since he’d have to buy the full clubs and shafts. 2. I can ask the above if he know some component heads that are very similar to the one’s I was fitted into. That would be a big saving and less wasteful. The components are unlikely to have the Boron/Chromoly/Kryptonite that Mizuno uses and might not perform exactly the same or look as nice. 3. I can find out if any of the shafts Mizuno offers have very similar characteristics as the shafts I was fitted for and just order from them. Then still have the loft and lies checked when I get them. This would be the cheapest but I wouldn’t get them pured (how important is that?) and I’ve already glanced at the specs they provide for their graphite shafts and they don’t quite seem the same as my Kevlar (lol?) shafts. 4. Stop nitting around and just do it. What do you think?
  17. I have decided to upgrade my clubs. I live in Jacksonville, so I visited MasterFit in Orange Park. The person I talked to in the store said they have been in business for over 20 years. He showed me the swing monitors, a whole bunch of charts and graphs from the previous fitting session, showing clubhead speed, ball speed, smash factor, the flex in the shaft, so on and so forth. It appears to be a very professional and experienced fitting company. The prices seem very reasonable for a set of irons, ranging from around $400 to around $800, depending on what kind of shaft, head, etc. Here is my question. What they sell is their own private label club heads. They aren't Mizuno, Titleist, etc. clubs. They are MasterFit clubs. Are these private label clubs as good as brand name clubs?
  18. Hello everyone, Im new to these forums. Little bit about myself......haven't been playing golf consistently for very long(sixth time at the range in about 3 years) but iv. I went to the range today and a lady had a trackman setup. Asked her if I could try it out and she was hesitant at first(was wearing gym shorts and shirt) but she agreed. I only got 1 swing in but it felt great even though i have been hitting the same driver(cobra ss 350) since highschool....currently 28yr. Anyways after looking at the numbers she was pretty surprised and told me my swing is very fast. A pro instructor came over and looked at the numbers and explain with a correct fitting and updated drive I could hit it 300+ no problem. My question for you all is what driver would fit best?
  19. I just received my last evolvr lesson, where we took a break from dynamic swing thoughts to focus on setup and address (I mentioned to my instructor that I have been hitting overdraws and pull draws, generally everything going left of target). He mentioned that I look too bent over at address and my butt it sticking out too much. I am 6'2", and he asked if my irons are over length, which they are by 1 inch, but they are at standard lie angle. When I first started playing, I was fit for irons at 1" over length as well as 2º upright. At that time I was swinging very steep and over the top, so I thought they were just fitting clubs to my (lousy) swing. At any rate, when trying to fix my posture at address, I want to pick the handle up a little higher, getting the heel of the club a bit off the ground. So I went down to the local golf store and asked to hit off a lie board to confirm I still need 2º upright lie angles. Using my current 7 iron, I hit twice off the lie board, both times making center contact on the sole, indicating I do not need a lie angle adjustment. So with all of that backstory, my question is this: Is it possible that I still need an upright lie, and because I set up with my current 7 iron soled properly was able to deliver the clubhead correctly at impact? Or is the lie board correct and I just need to get used to reaching farther down to the handle of the club? Perhaps I need to adjust to the new posture at address before hitting off the lie board. I very well could have inadvertently used my old setup when I went to hit off the lie board yesterday.
  20. Earlier today I fit a college player and a reasonably good putter with an Edel putter. His putter was a typical blade - the old PING/Cameron/Everyone-Has-a-Version classic blade putter with some heel/toe weighting. He could aim his putter, from about ten feet (bear in mind that the laser reflects back over the same ten feet, doubling the error), to about four inches outside the right edge of the cup. Not great, but not as bad as we've seen from many. His putter had a single, solitary thin line on the top part of the putter. What was his best fit putter? It was an almost identical Edel putter: the Umpqua head with no lines or dots at all. In fact, when I gave him just a dot - I like to give some players a bit more help to center the ball up beside just the heel/toe weighting - he aimed it about an inch right of the cup. Trying something, I drew a line on the putter. Bam! Back out to a cup right. Take the line away? Center of the cup every time. Sometimes the tiniest of things makes a fairly big difference. Where it pulled his focus and attention, I don't know, but it resulted in some pretty big changes. Just a little dot. P.S. His putter was also pretty badly weighted for him, too, or else I'd have recommended he find some way to make that putter work and save the cost of the Edel putter.
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