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Found 14 results

  1. Hey guys what's up. Have you ever thought about the importance of the golf ball and being fit for it? I would like to start a discussion on this topic. Let me know. If you don't yet know the difference between different balls I suggest taking a look here: https://www.golfgalaxy.com/s/golf-ball-comparison-chart It merely scratches the surface but it is very helpful in my opinion.
  2. Hey all, I live quite north (Edmonton AB), and it's gotten a bit cold to be out on the range or the course. I recently made a bit of a swing change that got rid of my dreaded late flip at impact, and have hit at the range but not on the course. I felt like I was hitting it a bit further and more solidly, but wasn't sure on my club gapping (have never been 100% on this) so I went into a local indoor facility to see if I could get a good idea on what was going on. It was an aboutgolf 3Trak system, which I was told should be fairly accurate as far as indoor systems go, but I was quite surprised by my distances. They seemed a little too deep on some clubs. I went back to my flippy at impact swing a few times to get a baseline and it was bang on for my previous course distances, but I'm still skeptical. Anyone have any experience with these systems? How reliable should I consider the data I was getting back? I did remove the outliers (obvious spin misreads), from my averages, but still would be uncomfortable with these distances on the course.
  3. I got my current set of irons about six years ago. I know I obsessively used the Mizuno swing optimizer to select a shaft. I ended up with FST 115, stiff flex, soft stepped, -1/2". I have had some great rounds and great shots with these irons. These are not Mizuno irons (they are Maltby K-30s). I was debating a new set of irons, and in part I was wondering if this was still the right fit for me. I know I deluded myself about a number of things back then, and I've found posts from that era when I say I hit an 8-iron 135 yards (for reference, that's a toss up of 6- or 7-iron for me at the moment). I bet I hit very few GIRs back then if that was my thinking (I didn't keep as detailed records as you'd think). There was a convenient Ping Demo / Fitting day near me at a Roger Dunn a few days ago that had a launch monitor, so I figured I'd go try. If I were to get a new set of irons, Ping's offerings are at the top of the list (I marginally prefer the look over Titleist APs, and also their partnership with TST would break the tie in their favor). My goal was to find out what, if anything, the difference would be between my current set and the Pings, plus if I decide to buy the Ping irons, now I have the specs to order. After trying many combinations (I even took practice swings before hitting the ball, trying to emulate a good range/course practice), we ended up with a suggestion for R-flex and a shaft that weighs 105g (they gave a specific one). On the store's launch monitor, I was hitting the G-400 7-iron 148-150 yards with the recommended shaft. Now, that 7-iron is one degree STRONGER than my 6-iron. Six years ago, I would have said "well, that's why I hit it so much farther," as I was quick to dismiss any set that had a PW with less than 47 degrees of loft (back before I understood there were non-marketing reasons to have these lofts). Except... I hit it more than a club further. If I need anything over 140 yards, I'm probably not hitting my 6-iron. GameGolf has my 6-iron at 136 yards. I can recall one shot where I hit my 6-iron more than 140 yards recently. I was trying to lay up short of a green that I couldn't see because of my tee shot position. I could see the greenside bunker left of the green, a little over 140 yards away and up hill. Well, I don't hit my 6-iron that far, so I'll hit that and use the bunker as a target. Guess where I ended up. Anyway, I thought I'd ask if anyone thinks I'm deluding myself (I don't think that's something I can figure out from within) about flex. If I am, and given that I'm taking lessons fairly regularly, am I possibly looking at running into a situation before too long where I should have stiff flex? Or maybe there's another factor with their clubs (they also suggest I play -1/4" not -1/2", but that's not the big difference in distance either). Can shaft flex really be that big a difference? My 31-degree iron at 136 yards, their (smaller sample size of shots hit) 30 degree at 148? Even if you think of "their 7" and "my 6" as the "same club," that's over a ten yard difference because of shaft flex (or other variables). And if it carries up the line at 10-yard increments, I'd replace 4-hybrid through PW in my set (I don't hit full shots with my GW, so I'd keep that). For what it's worth, I think my approach shots are a game strength at the moment. I lose 1.29 shots per round average on approach **compared to a 5-handicap**. I gain 1.32 per round compared to a 10-handicap (today's revision places me at a 14.0). Versus the 10 handicap, I lose .22 driving and... let's say more on the other two categories. My latest "My Swing" post includes two videos of me swinging at speed in case someone with a far better eye than I have wants to see how the shaft behaves in a swing (direct link to comment with videos (edit: or maybe just the last page of the My Swing thread?)): Thanks in advance for any insight offered! I'm up for learning more about flex, if I'm deluding myself, and for advice and suggestions about whether I should consider shaft flex changes. One other data point: two years ago or so, a Titleist rep fit me for my driver and I have stiff flex in that. I don't think I swung better then than I do now, and I don't think that shaft is mis-fit either.
  4. Hi All, Your advice is requested. I am playing again for the first time in 6 or 7 years, and picked up a cheap, old Ping G5 driver at the start of the season. It was 13º and lite-reg flex. Once I knew I was going to keep playing (who was I kidding!), I had a successful fitting session for some mizuno irons (standard lie, stiff shafts), but went somewhere else for my driver. I ended up buying a new M2, 10.5º in the stock stiff shaft, but I just can't get the distance regularly. With the G5 I was knocking it regularly 260+, where as most of my shots with the M2 are shorter, maybe 240. Disbursement is better, and the launch looks lower, so I'm not grumbling too much, but I wonder if I've been miss-fit and if thats the case then what I should do? Thanks in advance, Dan
  5. Hey Guys,Been using ping isi-k's for years and now have recently upgraded to ping ie 1's. On the isi's they were standard loft, lie and length in black code (7 of 36.75" length). They fitted well.The 2nd hand i e1's that i bought are standard loft and length (7 = 37") however the lie's are in colour purple, even with the lie being 1.5" flatter the toe of the clubs are pointing skywards too much and im hitting left of target more often.Using this ping chart im right in the middle of black which makes no sense for the i e1s (5ft 9" and 34.25" wrist to floor). I wouldn't of thought that the .25" would of made that much of a difference however the standard for those clubs being in blue may of.Unfortunately there are no ping fitters near me so i cant easily get down to one, however i can send them to ping and they will adjust foc bar shipping.Any help would be greatly appreciated as i really like these clubs but definitely need a bit of help or information regarding the lie.thanks
  6. I went to a Titleist fitting centre yesterday to get fitted for some new irons with the view of either getting the AP1's or AP2's. I am a 10 handicap, decent ball striker, 7 iron 165-170 yards. I went in with the view of maximum forgiveness (AP1's) but after hitting both clubs my numbers were virtually the same (except AP1's went little further due to lofts). My fitter was leaning towards recommending the AP2's as he didn't feel with my swing speed I would get anymore forgiveness out of the AP1's. However I still feel I would be giving up some forgiveness. I preferred the looks, sound off the face and flight of the AP2's, butmy current mindset is still whatever makes this game easier to score low! I want to get down to 8 this year and keep progressing lower so I guess my question is which would you go for out of the 2 sets? Ideally I'd combo the set but the lofts don't allow it which is annoying. For the record I am not at the level of shaping the ball my focus is generally on a consistent straight flight. Advice & opinions welcome?
  7. I'm getting a new toy for Christmas. I'm getting a new driver and it's going to be a Ping G30. I'm stuck between the regular G30 and G30 LS Tec. My solid/proffered hits are push draws with a mid launch. My mishits are blocks and the occasional push slice. My straight hits tends to be slight fade bias. Which way should I go? I'm leaning toward the LS.
  8. Hi, I made an android app (free app) for shaft length calculation and lie angle. It is especialy made for all golfers who do not fit to the standard. Mostly women, tall and short golfers. I would be glad if the app can help you: go to google play store and search for "biofitting" Please feel free to ask me or to make a review at google play store. I try to make the iTunes version too. Mike
  9. So there are some online driver deals this time of the year and I was thinking of making use of one of them. My biggest driver problem is missing toward the toe, and to a lesser extent thin. I also can (accidentally) curve the ball in either direction so specifically helping a slice or hook isn’t as important as perhaps just limiting side spin in general. I already know what length and shaft weights I like, and can play around with adjustable lofts so that’s not a problem. I found some nice deals on the Cobra F6 and Taylormade R15. The Cobra F6 has (or ties) the most rearward center of gravity of any club out there and thus has the highest MOI. A driver like that should help the most on off center hit in general. The R15 has 25 grams of left/right slidable weight which can move the center of gravity at least 1/8 inch toward the toe. Since my contact dispersion is between just a tiny inward of center to well out toward the toe that should also help a bit. The question is which would help me more? One concern with the R15 is moving the weight toward the toe will move the center of gravity in that direction relative to its neutral setting, but will it move it toward the toe relative to the Cobra or other clubs? That info is harder to come by on the web, but I might guess that most companies would tend to keep it more toward the heel if anything to help square the face for slicers. So I can move the sweet spot in the specific direction of my miss (maybe) with a club that is otherwise less forgiving, or I can go with the all round more forgiving club which may also help with thins and side spin — and for all I know might be better on toe hits as well. Thanks.
  10. A couple of months ago, I went to the local Golftec to talk about getting fitted for some new irons. They sold me on the idea of getting some lessons before they fit me, so I signed up for 10 lessons. I've had 4 lessons so far, but I was thinking, hey, I came in for clubs, so I asked for them to go ahead and fit me, which they did yesterday. They had me hit some shots with my current 7-iron, to measure my clubhead speed, ball flight, distance,etc. They took some physical measurements, had me stand up straight, measured the distance from my fingers to the floor. Asked me my height. Then they brought out 3 7-irons, a TaylorMade, a Mizuno, and a Ping. All game-improvement type of irons with regular graphite shafts. I was a little surprised they didn't recommend a senior shaft, but they told me I was in between a regular shaft and a senior shaft, and according to them, there was too much twisting in a senior shaft, that I should go with a regular shaft instead. Especially since I had told them in my lessons I was not concerned with adding distance, I was much more concerned with consistency. I hit about 8 or 10 shots with each club. I really liked the ball-striking feel of the Mizuno, but I had better results with the Ping, and it felt almost as good, so I selected the Ping, G-series. According to the indoor radar, on average, I hit the Ping 7-iron about 10 yards farther than I hit my current Adams Idea 7-iron. (I bought the Adams irons used, a couple of years ago, for $200.) The ball-striking impact of the Ping feels a LOT better to me than my current Adams 7-iron, also. A LOT better. The Pings are very forgiving, it feels like I'm hitting the sweet spot almost every time. So I asked him the price, and he said about $100 per club, $112 with the graphite shafts. After I came home, I looked up these clubs on the internet, and the price Golftec is charging is pretty much in line with the off the rack prices you see at places like Edwin Watts. I ordered the 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, PW, GW. Seven irons, $112 each plus tax. Apparently, according to the results of my fitting, I could have bought the clubs right off the rack and gotten almost exactly the same thing. It's a Ping G Series with a regular flex graphite shaft, and they said they needed to bend it 1 degree to get the proper lie angle. I guess I'm a pretty average guy with a pretty average swing speed, average height, average hand size, etc. But what I did get from the fitting is the peace of mind, knowing that I have clubs that are correct for me. I think that's important. They told me I wouldn't need a senior shaft for another 15 or 20 years. I told them in 20 years, I'll be 83 years old. They were a little surprised by that. The worst part is, I may have to wait for up to a month to get my new clubs from the factory, due to Christmas season. Overall, I feel pretty good about the experience. They didn't push any particular set of clubs, they let the radar/simulator speak for itself, they asked me how I felt about the different alternatives, and they charged a reasonable price for the clubs.
  11. I had a free afternoon so I thought it would be fun to make an appointment at the nearby fitting studio Club Champion for an iron fitting. I wasn’t sure I would necessarily buy anything but that possibility was on the table. This isn’t going to be a thorough review of their fitting process, but I’ll say it was very nice. They spent at least 1 1/2 hours not including warm up time, had massive numbers of heads and shafts, and my fitter seemed knowledgeable and attentive. A few details that came to light is that the 6 iron on my current set is 4* too strong. And my 8 iron is 2* too strong. I knew my 6 iron was my worst iron and now I discovered why. I’d also lost my 5 iron and just played around with the loft settings on a few hybrids to try and cover the gap. (I actually already know I’d lost my 5 iron). All of that and the fact that I’ve had them for maybe 8 years convinces me to go ahead and replace the set sooner than later. So on to what they are trying to sell me. The specs of my fitted irons obviously give me better launch monitor readings than any other combinations, including of course my own. The last bit practically goes without saying since they use the 6 irons for comparisons. What they do is order a built set of clubs from the OEM at retail price. Then they buy your shafts and grips, pull out the shafts that the clubs came with and throw them away, install and pure your new shafts and grips. Then check all the loft and lie angles and bend them if necessary. You also get a lifetime of loft and lie checking and adjustment if they get out of whack. For all this you spend about double what you would from the manufacturer even with with upgraded shafts. Here’s the breakdown: 7 irons: ~ $800 (Mizuno JPX900) shafts installed: $100 * 7 (Paterson KG950-IRT30 Taper) grips: $10 * 7 shafts pured: $30 * 7 Plus tax equals just under $2000. Definitely seems excessive. I’m buying a whole extra set of shafts and grips and labor from the manufacture that I don’t use. For all I know Club Champion even reuses those shafts to install in other clubs. I looked up my shaft and they have a retail value of $60. So they are charging me $40 per shaft to install PLUS and extra $30 for puring, which seems like just part of the installation. So here are some options I’m thinking of. 1. I know a very good independent club builder about an hour away — I can ask him what he’ll charge for the same thing. Still won’t be cheap since he’d have to buy the full clubs and shafts. 2. I can ask the above if he know some component heads that are very similar to the one’s I was fitted into. That would be a big saving and less wasteful. The components are unlikely to have the Boron/Chromoly/Kryptonite that Mizuno uses and might not perform exactly the same or look as nice. 3. I can find out if any of the shafts Mizuno offers have very similar characteristics as the shafts I was fitted for and just order from them. Then still have the loft and lies checked when I get them. This would be the cheapest but I wouldn’t get them pured (how important is that?) and I’ve already glanced at the specs they provide for their graphite shafts and they don’t quite seem the same as my Kevlar (lol?) shafts. 4. Stop nitting around and just do it. What do you think?
  12. 122 Club Speed

    Hello everyone, Im new to these forums. Little bit about myself......haven't been playing golf consistently for very long(sixth time at the range in about 3 years) but iv. I went to the range today and a lady had a trackman setup. Asked her if I could try it out and she was hesitant at first(was wearing gym shorts and shirt) but she agreed. I only got 1 swing in but it felt great even though i have been hitting the same driver(cobra ss 350) since highschool....currently 28yr. Anyways after looking at the numbers she was pretty surprised and told me my swing is very fast. A pro instructor came over and looked at the numbers and explain with a correct fitting and updated drive I could hit it 300+ no problem. My question for you all is what driver would fit best?
  13. I just received my last evolvr lesson, where we took a break from dynamic swing thoughts to focus on setup and address (I mentioned to my instructor that I have been hitting overdraws and pull draws, generally everything going left of target). He mentioned that I look too bent over at address and my butt it sticking out too much. I am 6'2", and he asked if my irons are over length, which they are by 1 inch, but they are at standard lie angle. When I first started playing, I was fit for irons at 1" over length as well as 2º upright. At that time I was swinging very steep and over the top, so I thought they were just fitting clubs to my (lousy) swing. At any rate, when trying to fix my posture at address, I want to pick the handle up a little higher, getting the heel of the club a bit off the ground. So I went down to the local golf store and asked to hit off a lie board to confirm I still need 2º upright lie angles. Using my current 7 iron, I hit twice off the lie board, both times making center contact on the sole, indicating I do not need a lie angle adjustment. So with all of that backstory, my question is this: Is it possible that I still need an upright lie, and because I set up with my current 7 iron soled properly was able to deliver the clubhead correctly at impact? Or is the lie board correct and I just need to get used to reaching farther down to the handle of the club? Perhaps I need to adjust to the new posture at address before hitting off the lie board. I very well could have inadvertently used my old setup when I went to hit off the lie board yesterday.
  14. Earlier today I fit a college player and a reasonably good putter with an Edel putter. His putter was a typical blade - the old PING/Cameron/Everyone-Has-a-Version classic blade putter with some heel/toe weighting. He could aim his putter, from about ten feet (bear in mind that the laser reflects back over the same ten feet, doubling the error), to about four inches outside the right edge of the cup. Not great, but not as bad as we've seen from many. His putter had a single, solitary thin line on the top part of the putter. What was his best fit putter? It was an almost identical Edel putter: the Umpqua head with no lines or dots at all. In fact, when I gave him just a dot - I like to give some players a bit more help to center the ball up beside just the heel/toe weighting - he aimed it about an inch right of the cup. Trying something, I drew a line on the putter. Bam! Back out to a cup right. Take the line away? Center of the cup every time. Sometimes the tiniest of things makes a fairly big difference. Where it pulled his focus and attention, I don't know, but it resulted in some pretty big changes. Just a little dot. P.S. His putter was also pretty badly weighted for him, too, or else I'd have recommended he find some way to make that putter work and save the cost of the Edel putter.
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