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  1. Here are three graphs of putting strokes. The s axis is "speed" and the "t" axis is time. We'll take a look at each of these in a moment, but consider first how putting can behave like a pendulum. In virtually all good putting strokes, the ball is hit with a slight positive angle of attack (AoA) - about 2-3° or so. This positive AoA helps minimize backspin, produce no spin, or even to produce a tiny bit of forward spin if the dynamic loft is 1-2°. But the point is: the ball is struck while the putter head is ascending, or after low point . If you were to swing a pendulum back and through, maximum speed would be where? At the bottom. At low point. At every point after that, the speed would be lower. Even one tenth of one degree after low point, the pendulum is slowing down (negative acceleration, or deceleration). The best putters almost all tend to have a decelerating putter head at or even slightly before impact. Their putting stroke resembles a pendulum, reaching maximum speed at or slightly before impact. Consider also the length of a pendulum's swing. A theoretical pendulum (no loss of energy to friction) swings as far past center in one direction as it does in the other direction. Whether you measure it in degrees or a linear measurement, the pendulum swings 22.7° left and 22.7° right, or 13.1 inches left and 13.1 inches right. The best putters almost all tend to have similar length backswings and through-swings in their putting strokes. Their putting strokes continue to resemble a pendulum in this sense. Now let's take a look at each of these putting strokes. Here's a putting stroke typical of a golfer who has a terrible time controlling their distances. This golfer may have a great sense of touch from 5-10 feet, maybe even out to 15', but when you ask them to hit a 30' putt, you start to see issues. They'll hit one 27', the next 34', the one after that 25', and then maybe 33'. These golfers often make a backswing that's - let's just say - eight inches for a six-foot putt, nine inches for a 12-foot putt, and ten inches for a 30-foot putt. They're almost the same length. Then they have to accelerate their putters various amounts to reach various speeds at impact to send the ball various distances. If you wanted to make a pendulum swing faster at the bottom of the arc, given the same pendulum length and weight (we aren't changing putters or our setup appreciably), how would you accomplish this? Why… you'd simply pull the pendulum back farther before letting it go. So look at the speed and time plot of the poor putter above. I've marked the instantaneous speed at two points: just prior to impact and just after impact. Note that impact - even on a putting stroke - severely slows the putter head down. I've exaggerated it quite a bit in these graphs, but that's something I can do given that I haven't added any scale to these charts. :D It simply makes things clearer to see and thus easier to grasp. At any rate, note that the direction of each of the arrows - both the dashed (pre-impact) and dotted (post-impact) lines is pointing upwards. This means the putter head has positive acceleration. It's speeding up. Note the pronounced "hump" after impact. Though the ball slows the putter head down temporarily, it's still speeding up, so you see a second peak speed after impact. This golfer is roughly 99% likely to have poor distance control. Let's look at the good and great putting dynamics (and by good I mean pretty darn good, because as you'll note the differences between these two are subtle): Note how in Good the putting stroke reaches maximum speed at the ball. The proof of this is that the acceleration is neither positive nor negative - the arrow is pointing horizontally, indicating that the speed is neither going up nor down. Constant speed is no acceleration (positive or negative). Notice that this condition continues immediately after impact, and the putter head continues to slow down thereafter. In the Great image, the putter head is actually slowing down slightly at impact (the arrow points downward). Then you see the BIG deceleration caused by the putter impacting the ball, and then the deceleration continues from there. Contrast those with what we often see from the golfers with the absolute worst distance control: This golfer actually manages to reach peak/maximum speed after the ball has left the putter . Note that his acceleration curve going into impact actually steepens - he is accelerating more at impact than at any other point in the downstroke. Then he accelerates MORE until he rapidly decelerates, well after impact, to bring the putter to a halt. This is more common than you might think. Golfers have been told for decades to "accelerate through the ball" and to "putt authoritatively" and so on. This advice ranks near the top of my list for counter-productive, harmful advice. By and large, the poorest putters accelerate far too much for far too long (including up to and after impact), while the best putters have roughly matching backstrokes and through-strokes that deliver the putter head to the ball while it is either not accelerating at all or is negatively accelerating (i.e. decelerating, or slowing down). If you feel you may be "accelerating" your putter into impact, put three coins on the ground, equally spaced from each other, in a line. Put the ball near the middle one, and practice making backstrokes that go to one and finish at the other. Try to feel that you're not adding anything to the downstroke or follow-through: you're not accelerating the putter much (just let gravity do it - in reality your muscles will contribute, but it's uncommon to feel much muscle contribution) and you're not forcing yourself to "brake" the putter too much at the end, either. Just make a natural, smooth stroke that matches - coin to coin. To change how far you hit the ball, move the coins farther apart or closer together, keeping the distances the same. If you still struggle with this, swing to the second or third longest coin, but still try to hit the ball a short distance and finish at the first or second coin on the follow-through. It's that simple. P.S. Note that I've made no attempt to show the scale of t and s. Specifically, I've fudged things a bit by implying that the the t is the same for all of these strokes, and that impact occurs at the same moment. This is very unlikely to be true: if you make a short backstroke and accelerate all the way up to and even after impact, you're likely to have a shorter (time) downswing and to reach impact sooner. They line up because I wanted to keep things simple, and because timing isn't really the topic here. P.P.S. A really old example of a SAM PuttLab read-out can be seen here . P.P.P.S. (2014-08-13) A great series of pictures and a simple explanation of the "why" is found in post #179:
  2. Just a simple video, putting on my living room carpet this morning, and wanted to try to make a "comparison" video with the camera right down behind the ball, showing my putting stroke...1) Cheap, used, Odyssey Dual Force blade putter from "Play It Again Sports" here in town.2) My prized, custom made, generic component, "Butch Ammon" mallet putter (it's a copy of the Odyssey Rossie II).What do you think of my standard, pendulum, straight out 'n back, type of putting stroke? Those two errant shots off to the right, were me acting foolish and rushing the shot. Normally, I can make those simple 6' putts on the carpet over and over and over and over, 18... 19... 20 times in a row.
  3. In all the years that I have played golf (i.e. mid 1980's), I have discovered that everyone is unique when it comes to putting. Everyone has their own special grip, their own special stance, their own special swing tempo, etc...etc... I have my prized, custom made, generic/component mallet putter, 35" long, and resembles an old Odyssey Rossie II mallet putter with the black polymer insert. Anyway, I use a slightly bizarre putting grip, slightly upright stance, and it just works for me. I'll try to describe it when you look at the photo below, that I just took in my living room, while practicing putting across the carpet. Anyone ever seen a putting grip like mine? Right hand: Right thumb centered on grip, covering up the "Crown" logo of Titleist/Scotty Cameron Baby T putter grip. Right fingers naturally curl around the grip. Left hand: Left thumb centered on grip and tightly nestled into fleshy part of right hand palm. Left index finger, as odd as it looks, the left index finger points down the shaft, resting on top of the right hand fingers. Left fingers (middle, ring, pinky) naturally curl around the grip.
  4. Hello everyone, I apologize if I'm posting in an inappropriate location as this is my first post, but I have a question regarding the Rules. I understand a person cannot place an object on the "line of the putt" at any point to help aid in a putt, but I was wondering if it's a rule violation to place a marker behind the hole while aligning the ball markings. It's easier to line the markings up with a smaller item sometimes than with the entire hole, and it would be placed directly behind the hole just while aligning the arrows on the ball. Rule 8-2b states one cannot place a mark on the "line of the putt," but "line of the putt" is defined as not extending past the hole, meaning that placing a mark behind the hole wouldn't violate this rule, as long as the mark was removed before the stroke was made. Thanks!
  5. I'm not sure I agree. It's differences in green speeds that affects people more. If your typical muni stimps 8.5, the golfer who is used to that will struggle when they play somewhere where the green stumps 11. But the reverse is true, as well. People used to 11-12 are going to struggle when they play an 8 green. Tour players complain when the greens are slow (sometimes we see this with American players at the British Open, for example). It's not just Tour players who play fast greens. Most of the private clubs I have played at have faster greens (though my munis are actually pretty good TBH) and the members of those clubs would be used to that speed. You don't just automatically become a better putter because the green is slower. You'll under-hit your speed and over-read breaks until you adjust. False
  6. Curious to hear why putts are missed in the 10 - 15 foot range.
  7. You may recall hearing Dave Pelz tell you that the optimal distance a putt has to roll past the hole is 17 inches. How big might you guess the hole is at 17 inches? 4 inches wide? 3 ½? What if I told you that the hole, at 17 inches, was only about 2¼ inches wide? What? Am I crazy? No - it's just math. Consider a well cut hole, and what's required for the putt to go in. For a putt to be holed, it has to have enough time for the ball - 1.68 inches in diameter - to fall half that distance, or 0.84 inches, or more. Gravity is a constant force (9.8 m/s 2 ) and 0.84 inches is about 0.021336 meters. Given that distance (d) = 0.5at 2 we can solve for t time: 0.021336m = 0.5 * 9.8 m/s 2 * t 2 . 0.021336m = 4.9 m/s 2 * t 2 . 0.021336m / 4.9m/s 2 = t 2 . 0.004354s 2 = t 2 . t = 0.065987 seconds. In other words, a golf ball needs approximately 0.066 seconds to fall 0.84 inches, striking some part of the back of the cup at the equator for the ball to be holed. As you all know, d=rt. Distance equals rate times time. For example, in two hours going 60 MPH you'll travel 120 miles. 120 miles = 2 hours * 60 miles/hour. Simple stuff. I don't know what the "rate" of a ball rolling 17" past the hole is, but smart people do and they've plugged that in to the equation. t is always going to be 0.066 seconds, and thus they can solve for d. That "d" is effectively the amount of air a ball needs to have under it's path in order to fall into the cup by dropping 0.84 inches (or more). A putt that rolls over the very very outside edge of the hole might only have a quarter of an inch of "air during which it can fall. If the putt is barely rolling at any speed, that'll take 0.66 seconds or longer and the putt will drop. If the ball is rolling really fast, it'll cross that 1/4 inch in no time at all, and not fall in. Here are the numbers, in graphical form: In other words, a putt that rolls six inches past the hole (0.5 feet, or 0.5') is effectively 3.8 inches wide. We lose 0.45 inches off the sides of the cup (0.225 off each side, the left and the right) and are effectively putting to a hole that's 3.8 inches wide. If this graphic shows you anything, it's that the cup gets really small, really quickly. The hole is less than an inch wide for a putt that rolls four feet past the hole. Heck, even a putt that rolls only three feet beyond the hole - leaving what would amount to a tap-in for most people - is only 1.4 inches wide. Here's that same graphic in a form that makes the distance a bit more obvious. Notice how at "A" the distance the ball needs to travel is much shorter than the distance needed in "B". Putt a ball about eight feet past the hole and there's almost no chance of it going in the hole - the target is virtually 0 inches wide. These are the putts that hit the back of the hole, fall 0.7 inches instead of 0.84, and pop up and sit behind the hole. (These numbers are for a flat green at about 8 on the stimp. On faster greens, these holes are a little larger because a ball can be rolling more slowly and still roll six inches past the hole, or two feet past the hole. On downhill putts, the hole can be a little larger too for the same reason - the ball is rolling more slowly - but this is often offset by the fact that the far edge of the cup is a little lower, so the ball has to fall more than 0.84 inches. On an uphill putt, a similar thing occurs - the ball will be traveling faster to roll out three feet past the hole (or whatever distance), but the back of the cup is a little higher so the ball only has to fall perhaps 0.8 inches.) So, what's the point of all of this? If you like putting to large targets, strive to hit your ball about six to twelve inches past the cup. 17 inches, two feet... three feet... they're all too firm. The ball will be rolling too fast at the hole and it will be rolling too fast to have a very large target - 2.25 inches, 1.9 inches, and 1.4 inches respectively. Okay, so why not strive for "dead at the hole" capture speed? After all, the hole becomes 4.25 inches wide then, right? Well, three reasons. If you're off by an inch in terms of your speed, or two inches, you're virtually 100% certain not to make the putt. Never up, never in. The lumpy donut. It's not a huge effect, but it can play a small role when the ball is moving that slowly. Wobble. As a ball comes to a stop, the last six inches of its roll are really, really affected by small imperfections in the green. The ball will sharply break left and right on these small things (spike marks, a tuft of grass, a heel print) and nobody wants to see their putts swerve half an inch right because of a tiny little bump and miss the hole. 6-12 inches gives you a pretty darn big hole to putt into and it avoids the "wobble" problem. You've probably heard about golfers hitting the ball "firmly" and "taking out the break." Well, guess what? You know all those putts that lip out? Capture speed problems. The hole was too small, the ball didn't have enough time to drop, and it hit the far side of the hole with most of the ball still above the edge of the hole, veered hard sideways off the back of the cup, and climbed out. Give yourselves the biggest hole to putt to: strive to roll the ball six to twelve inches past the hole. You might leave one short now and then, but I guarantee you'll make more than enough additional putts to offset the occasional ones left short. Update 2017-11-09: Here are the numbers for other stimp speeds: Effective Capture Width at Various Roll Speeds and Stimps Speed Stimp 8 Stimp 10 Stimp 12 Die 4.2" 4.2" 4.2" 6" 3.8" 3.9" 3.9" 1' 2.6" 2.7" 2.8" 2' 1.9" 2.1" 2.3" 3' 1.4" 1.7" 1.9" 4' 0.9" 1.3" 1.5" 5' 0.5" 0.9" 1.2"
  8. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/golfputt-ar/id1289750170?ls=1&mt=8 It's gonna be awhile before I'm on a putting green (maybe this afternoon), but the author wrote and the app can be used free. For $1.99 you can disable ads.
  9. Hi Guys, I'm fairly new to this website. I wanted to join to begin a forum on Indoor Putting Greens. I know most of us reside in the cold states where we can only sit and dream about golf. I grew tired of this routine of playing golf and finding my game by the time it was too late and the leaves began to fall and soon enough the snow-birds were snow-birding again.... lol. Anyways, I'm an avid golfer, a golf junkie, a golf pyscho, a serial golfer... whatever it is I'm just obsessed with the game. I love it, like all of us do on this site. I've got 3 kids, so this project was a MUST DO. I made a massive putting green in the basement after reading many reviews for the material Kevin Na and Ben Crane were touting about a couple years ago. I learnt many of the tour pros used this material so I HAD to get my hands on it. I thought it would've been pricey but it was super affordable. I spent about 2 weeks building and boy, was it worth it. The finished product was beyond my imagination - I've played many great golf courses and the green actually emulated the best. I even added slopes. And for the record, I'm basically here to spread the word that it is completely possible to have a massive(or small) putting green in your home without breaking the banks like these synthetic turf company's charge. The project literally cost me less than $400. The kids love it, they're down there and have practically forgotten about their Ipads and Ipods and video games(true story). But best of all, the WIFE APPROVES. Here are some pictures - If people are interested in how I constructed, please just feel free to comment. We do not need to be golf hibernators anymore! :)
  10. Mulligan87

    Close to giving up the game!

    Hi Guys I've been very close to giving up the game recently and just wanted to see if others have similar feelings post round. So passionate to play golf and improve and will always spend the time practicing to get better. Recently have been playing great golf only to be 3 putting from 15- 20 yards. whenever i'm playing well I can't hole 3 footers its insane!! I play off of 10 but I just can't putt when it means something. if i'm having a mediocre/bad round i'm ok with the putter but Havn't hit under my handicap in 20+ rounds and i'm actually creeping up when i'm playing/ striking the ball well enough to be lower. I'm at my wits end with it and just don't know where to go as it seems more of a mental problem that I just can't seem to overcome. Absolutely love the game of golf and spend every moment outside work thinking about golf if i'm not playing it. I know theres going to be cliché comments about not letting the last shot dictate your mood, I don't have a short fuse compared to some folk I see on the course but when its a constant problem, hole after hole after hitting in regulation i'm losing my head!!! Spend the weekend post round in a sometimes sombre mood and just thinking..... is this game worth playing if its constantly dictating my mood? Sorry to ramble on.... Cheers Guys
  11. natureboy

    What's the deal with grain?

    So at the event at Kapalua, announcers pointed out what they called an effect of grain on a putt by Ryan Moore (gif below) where the trajectory of a left-to-right putt seems to change in a slight double-break. Objections were raised that studies of grain effects indicated they were minimal...up to 2 inches on a 20' putt. Not sure if that was for mostly level or appreciable slope. This jibes with what I recall about grain from one of the original empirical looks at grain in Vector Putting (since superseded / updated by AimPoint)...that it was relatively a small contribution vs. slope. From what I've come across, the least 'grainy' grass is supposed to be Poa Annua as it has the most vertical 'growth habit', while creeping bentgrass has more tendency to develop grain, and Bermuda even more (greens at Kapalua). The intuitive assumption might be that amount of deflection is spread out evenly along the whole length of the putt (like slope is - ball is always falling) so grain-induced deflection is like .008" per foot of putt length. I'm not convinced that's how it would work as it seems likely that grass grain (if present) would have more effect on a slower moving ball (end portion of longer putts or most of a short putt that is only intended to go a bit past the hole). So shorter putts might experience a greater percentage of deflection (but still under 2"). Most of the information says that grass grain tends to follow the slope (downhill) if it's present. So grain and slope would typically be aligned the same. On that basis it's implied that in the GIF above there was most likely a slope change that is reflected in the color change of the grass. The more closely mown the grass, the less the grain tends to be in play because the stems are cropped nearer the ground. But here's a video where grain has developed independent of slope sun or maintenance practices due to some particular quirks of the site, green location, or the plants. Grain changes 180 degrees where there is no appreciable change in slope. Based on the video above it seems possible that the color change apparent on the green in the Kapalua GIF isn't a change is slope, but only a 'random' variation in the grain as in the video above. In that case it seems like the 'jog left' the putt seems to take might be a case of the 'rising fastball' effect where the anticipation of the curve on the early phase of the putt as the ball is falling with gravity on a 'fast' portion of grain continues to fall, but does so more slowly on a 'slow' portion of grain (opposite the slope / falling ball) and tracks into the hole on a less curved than expected line for the average 'grain with the slope' green speed? So what's your experience? Do you find that grain primarily follows slope so that you can use visual 'grain' cues to help find slope inflections? And do you find patches of grain on some courses / holes that does not follow the downhill slope? If so, how frequently, and do you notice any common patterns or is it more random? If you notice grain effects, what type of grass is it usually? Do you find short putts have an equal amount of break as longer putts or do you find the effect of grain proportional to the length of the putt? Do you notice differing effects from grain if the average stimp is high or low? Here's some general info on grain and green agronomy (who knew there was a global turf network):
  12. Note: this fix worked for me in order to achive better aligment to the target, may not work for u but you can try it. I always wanted to align the ball line to my target on putts inside 15 feet like the pro and a lot scratch amateur i played with do. So i give it a lot of hours and every time the same happened, i aligned the ball to my target from behind the ball but when i take my stance over the ball the line aims to the rigth of the target, i putted along that line of the ball and i always missed rigth. A week ago on the putting green i decided to give it a go one more time, and the same as always. But this time i get a little creative and try out this fix. For a 4,5 feet (1 yard and a half) straigth putt i aimed to the left lip of the hole from behind the ball and when i take my stance the line aimed at the middle of the hole. Eureca I thought, but not. Do the same from 9 feet, from behind to the left lip but over the ball it was aimed at the rigth lip. As a man who love math i easy realiced that at 4,5 feet the difference between back from top view was half a hole and from 9 feet ( exactly 4,5 feet x 2 ) was a complete hole. It was easy to figure out that from 18 feet the difference will be 2 complete holes so from behind i have to aim 1 hole and a half from the left lip of the hole, i tryed and it worked!! over the ball the line was aiming at the center of the hole, and every well stroke putter rolls in that line to the middle of the hole. I still had one problem, what about 4 feet.. 8 feet, how much left i have to aim..? it´s hard to guess the exact place to aim, even more in tournament when you have to speed up. I figured out that if i extend the arm (like i do in long shots to aim) and aim 1 finger to the left of the target from behind the ball, when i´m over the ball the line is aiming at the hole. This weekend played and important tournament (posted it on the tournament thread), such were the good results on the practice green i decided to put this fix into play. It worked beautifully, every good stroked putter started in my intended line. As a good green reader i holed a lot of putts in 11-12 speedmeter perfect greens. This is my routine with this fix for a 6 footer half a hole break from rigth to left: While other players are playing i read my put (speed/line), when it´s my turn i place the ball and look for a spot a finger left of my target. My target it´s right lip of the hole, 1 finger left at that range it´s 0,66 of a hole, so the spot will be a bit left of the center of the hole. I align the ball line to that spot and take my stance, now over the ball i see the line aiming at the rigth lip and i can putt with confidence that i´m aiming ok. Need to work on the stroke but at least now i know that i´m aiming a lot better to my target more often with the bonus of the feedback of the line roling true to the hole or not when i hit it bad.
  13. chipandcharge

    Seeing slopes correctly on the green

    I discovered something curious about my vision--when I stand naturally and look at a line that is perfectly horizontal, I see it as descending to the left around three degrees to the left. This means that if I look at a green that is perfectly flat and perfectly horizontal, I see a three degree slope to the left. For years, I couldn't understand why putts that looked straight in, broke to the right, and putts that looked like they would break to the left, went straight. When I got some advice to also look from behind the cup and saw the opposite break compared to looking from behind the ball, I attributed it to an optical illusion. Then one day, I discovered in my living room that horizontal lines such as the intersection between a wall and the ceiling and the top of a tv set looked like they were descending to the left. I used a carpenter's level to make sure that the lines were horizontal. I had my vision checked and was told that my dominant eye must have rotated in my eye socket and that it could be corrected by surgery on the muscles. I didn't want to do that, so using my engineering background, I came up with two methods of adjusting for this problem. The first is looking at the slope near the cup from behind the ball and behind the cup and estimating an average. For example, if the slopes are three degrees to the left from behind the ball and behind the cup, they cancel out, and the surface is horizontal. If the slopes point in the same direction from behind the ball and behind the cup, the "true" slope is the average of the two. There are other combinations. There is a problem that still remains--after estimating the actual slope, I have to putt an imaginary slope, or I have to develop a "cause and effect" relationship between the false slope and how the ball breaks for that false slope. I found a second correction last night that I will write about later.
  14. Here's a thread where we can all speculate and share data and thoughts and discuss "theories" and hypotheses… I've shared parts of this in other topics, but I hope to collect everything here, while simultaneously simplifying my position (maybe? hopefully?). I'd previously written a post about how you should almost always leave the flagstick in when you're given the opportunity to (without penalty). It, when you're off the green, tends to help you far more often than it hurts. The flagstick typically slows the ball down and lets it fall into the hole or at least stay closer than it otherwise would have. Then few weeks ago, the USGA and R&A published their proposed rules changes for 2019 (talk about those in the Rules of Golf forum), and one of them was to abolish the two-stroke penalty for striking the flagstick (in the hole) after a stroke from on the putting green. A Dave Pelz study from decades ago backs this up, as does basic physics (collisions lose energy). This, I immediately felt, had the potential to massively change the game of golf. My experience, the research I've read, and talks with others in the sciences and in golf have virtually convinced me of this. The USGA/R&A seem to be ignoring this, saying only "On balance it is expected that there should be no advantage in being able to putt with the unattended flagstick in the hole:". I think they're wrong. The rule is proposed among many to speed up play, and while I admire the USGA's/R&A's desire to speed up play, I'm not even sure it will do that - many have said it may slow play in most instances because where we currently take the flagstick out and put it back in once per hole on most holes, we may find situations where different players prefer the flag in or out and change its status when it is their turn to putt. This topic will not discuss pace of play - just the potential (or real) advantages to be gained. I think these potential advantages will affect two types of putts: Short-medium putts from 4-6', with lesser benefits out to about 10' or 12'. These are putts where players are somewhat or quite likely to hit the hole and, thus, the flagstick. Long putts from 25+ feet. Currently "tap-ins" are about 2' out, but if the first bullet point becomes an issue, and "tap-in" range extends to 4' or 5', the importance of getting your 30-footer to a foot or two diminishes greatly. In this topic, I'd like to explore the pros/cons, the physics, the data, the science, the mentality/psychology… and all of that stuff. I'd like to discuss the theory, the hypotheses, etc. behind this "advantage." This topic isn't about pace of play. It's not about whether we play golf into a "hole" and that this violates some sacred idea or something. It's just about the "advantage." First, some stipulations: There are few regulations on flagsticks. Circular in cross-section, not super dampening like foam or something, not strongly tapered… that's about it. I'm only suggesting a change from 12" past capture speed to about 3' to 4' past capture speed. Do not take me saying "bash it at the stick" or things like that as suggesting that I think players should hit a 5' putt with enough speed to go 10' past the hole. There's some grey area here because greens stimp at different speeds, uphill putts stop closer to the hole than downhill putts traveling the same speed at the hole, etc. Grey areas are unfortunately unavoidable. Players all have different psychologies. Some players will be struggle to do things other players can do more easily. Let's jump right in. Credible arguments for this proposed rule creating an advantage: The flagstick slows the ball by a greater factor than it decreases the time the ball spends suspended over the hole. Unless you have exceptional distance control, effective capture speed can remain about the same. Hitting the ball more firmly allows for a larger margin of error. It also reduces the tendency of a slow-moving putt to "wobble" or be moved off-line due to imperfections. Players, particularly poorer putters, leave a lot of putts from 6' to 15' short. This change would let them be more aggressive. The situations where the flagstick should be removed (it leans too much, it's moving around a lot in the wind) almost never occur. The flagstick offers an aid - it gives the player yet another point or two at which to aim. Credible arguments against there being any advantage: Three putts from short range may increase. Poor putters miss the hole from short range and will miss a lot of the come-backers. Hitting putts faster eliminates the putts that would fall at the outer "edges" of the hole with slower capture speed. These putts don't touch the flagstick, and lip out with faster speeds, but would fall in the "edge" or "side" with slower speeds. Let me take a look at the "pro" list above. 1. The flagstick slows the ball by a greater factor than it decreases the time the ball spends suspended over the hole. Simply put, the ball has to fall 0.84" or so to fall into the hole. Gravity is a constant, so this becomes a matter of time - time which the ball is unsupported and able to fall (another grey area: the ball can be "supported" partially along the "side" of the ball, slowing its descent). But back to the idea of time… Time for an object to fall 0.84 inches is about 0.066 seconds. So what can affect the time it takes? Two things: the speed the ball is traveling (faster = less time), and the route it takes over the hole (going straight across the middle of the hole provides the longest route and the most time to fall) - taking a cord along the edge provides a much shorter route. Many who think they should take the flagstick out when they are chipping from off the green say "the flagstick takes up room in the hole." It does, and so no ball can take a "long" route through the middle of the hole - it will be deflected. So, the question becomes this: how does the flagstick function to affect the time the ball spends unsupported over the hole? It's not as simple as subtracting the diameter of the flagstick from the 4.25", because the ball will contact the flagstick with its outer edge. If you imagine a ball that's hit directly at the flagstick, it will only spend about 2.1" unsupported by the ground - 1.035" from the time the center of the ball goes over the front lip until the front side of the ball hits the stick, and another 1.035" on its way back directly the way it came. The first 1" will be much shorter in time because the ball is moving much more quickly. 2.1" of travel does not afford the ball very much time to drop, and yet… we've all seen a ball rocketing at the flagstick, smack into it dead-center, and fall. In testing I've done, I've rolled balls with as much as 20' past capture speed on a flat portion of a green stimping at about 10 and had them repeatedly fall in to the hole. I shouldn't have to tell you… none of the balls rolled at the same speed went into the hole with the flagstick removed. Thus, the conclusion is simple: the flagstick dampens the speed of the ball by a significantly larger factor than it reduces the distance (and time) that the ball spends in free-fall. A few working physicists have supported this statement in my talks with them, though none have gone beyond preliminary calculations to quantify this, or to measure how advantage declines as you move away from direct hits, though one added that even a "half-ball hit" (he knew I played pool/billiards) should be pretty close to the same math - the ball traveling farther and thus having more time help to offset the less direct impact. Grey areas: 1. Flagsticks differ in their composition. I was using a pretty traditional flagstick, but some courses have wooden flagsticks, metal flagsticks, fiberglass, etc. 2. I'm unsure of how long this holds - It's obvious that a ball that overlaps the flagstick by 0.01" will act almost as if there was no flagstick in there, and regular capture speed rules will basically apply. 2. Unless you have exceptional distance control, effective capture speed can remain about the same. From this thread… … you'll see that a ball putted only 1' past the hole has only the center 2.6" of the hole. At 2' past, the capture width of the hole shrinks quickly to 1.9". Those look like this: Now, obviously that ball rolling 1' past isn't even close to hitting the flagstick, but it's still going to drop (in a pure physics standpoint). The ball hit 2' past is going to hit the flagstick if one was there, but even the edge of the ball isn't passing over the center of the hole (the ball is 1.68" in diameter). (These numbers are part physics, part experimental data, and come from Mark Sweeney.) A ball rolling 3.5' past the hole has an effective capture width of only about 1.2". That looks like this (the flagstick is pictured here simply for continuity): Losing 1.4" is significant (0.7" on both sides) to 0.8" (0.4" on each side) is fairly significant, and that's why, under the current rules, I've suggested people understand and read the capture speed topic, and to strive to deliver the ball with the speed that takes it only a foot or two past the hole. The question is now… what's an effective capture width with the flagstick in the hole and the ball rolling at about 3.5' past the hole? Obviously we need the ball to impact the flagstick enough to slow it down, so let's make an educated guess (based largely on the tests I did last fall, and yes, I know, you're going on a little faith here, but @david_wedzik and I will test thoroughly soon, hopefully this Friday). In my testing, and again I intend to document this fully very soon with Dave, 1.8" provided sufficient flagstick-ball contact to get putts to fall with the flagstick in the hole. "But we've lost 0.8"!", you'll say. And you're right. But remember, that's if you're able to deliver 1' past capture speed. Add just a little and hit your putt with 2' past capture speed and your 2.6" wide target drops down to 1.9" - basically the same width as the picture above. Also, that 0.8" you lost is not the same value. Huh? Consider that PGA Tour players make 77% of their five-foot putts. If we place a bell curve over the effective capture width of the hole, it would look something like this: PGA Tour pros hit the center of the hole more often than they hit the edges of the hole. They don't use whatever size capture width they are given evenly - that's why they make the majority of their putts from 5'. The outer edges - where we're relying on a slowly rolling ball to fall in - don't have the same value as the center of the hole. Bad putters make only about 50% of their putts from 5'. Their bell curve might look like this: Note: the center of the hole is still more important, but the edges are relatively more important. Bad putters hit the center of the hole less often and hit the edges or miss completely more often. If you're still awake at this point, you're correct that 2.6" is wider than 1.8". Even 1.9" is wider than 1.8". If you putt a ball with 3.5' past speed 1.1" off-center, it will miss the flagstick and be traveling too fast to go in. You're correct! But… here's the important thing… With the flagstick in, delivering the ball with 2' past speed within the 1.9" zone or 1' past speed within the 2.6" zone, and the ball will still fall. The flagstick is not hampering your ability to do this at all. There's no negative here - the only negative is if you choose to hit the ball with faster than 2' past capture speed… at which point the flagstick begins to help. At 3' past capture speed, without the flagstick the capture width of the hole shrinks to 1.4". Leaving the flagstick in gains 0.4". It’s insurance in case you hit the ball a little too firmly. If I had to boil down the “is it an advantage” thing to one thing, there it is. This is an important point, so I'm going to hammer it again. If you want to keep putting the way you’re putting now (without the flagstick), do it… but leave the flagstick in, because it will not hurt you if you have good distance control, and WILL help you if you don’t. There's literally no downside here (assuming one of those two conditions - flagstick leaning a LOT or high wind and a jostling flagstick - aren't met). Grey areas: 1. Ball speed vs. roll-out distance on different stimps is not linear - a ball rolling at a speed of x on a stimp 8 green and rolling out 2' past is not rolling 8x/12 if it rolls out 2' on a stimp 12 green. This is why a ball can roll out 3' but still fall in the sides of the hole at Augusta National: the ball is rolling slowly. 2. Players aren't robots. They won't control ball speed to 1' exactly. If they could, and people could read greens perfectly, and greens didn't have imperfections, I'd say take the flagstick out for these putts! 3. Hitting the ball more firmly allows for a larger margin of error. It also reduces the tendency of a slow-moving putt to "wobble" or be moved off-line due to imperfections. Let me address the second part first. In the last 6-12" of a putt, the ball has a tendency to wobble. It's moving more slowly, and minor imperfections can have a large effect on a ball. That's why, though the ideal capture speed is "dead weight" making the hole its full 4.25" wide, it's impractical because you'd leave too many putts short and the ball behaves unpredictably near the hole. Whether you call it the Dave Pelz "lumpy donut" or just the minor variations in the putting surface due to the fact that grass is not a perfectly flat, smooth surface (nor are golf balls, for that matter)… the ball can divert from its path quite a bit in the last foot of its travel. Hitting the ball more firmly makes the path more consistent and thus more predictable. Go ahead… roll a ball on a putting green and watch the last foot of its roll. It'll divert relatively easily, and more so on the slower, bumpier greens many average golfers play. Now, regarding the margin of error… time for more math. Gravity pulls a ball down the hill. If the hill had 0% slope (i.e. dead flat), it would not pull a ball at all. The acceleration due to gravity would be 0 distance/time^s. If the hill had infinite slope (i.e. was a vertical wall), acceleration would be x distance/time^2 (or 9.8m/s^2 if you want to use those units). Any slope between those two points: 0% and infinite %, will be between 0 and x. More slope = more acceleration downhill (i.e. more break). Hitting a ball more firmly means that a ball gets to the destination (the hole) in less time. This lower amount of time means that differences in gravity due to a slight mis-read or a slight error in your start line can be reduced. I'll use some generic units here for distance and time, "d" and "t" because the specific units aren't important. Let's imagine that for a 2% slope, a putt breaks 100d/t^2. A 1% slope will be about 50d/t^2, and a 3% slope about 150d/t^2. Let's imagine two kinds of putts. One takes 10t (time units) to get to the hole (the one we hit firmly), and the other takes 12t to get to the hole. This chart shows how far the ball will deviate due to acceleration (from physics, the ball will travel d = 1/2*a*t^2). I've left the units off just to make the numbers convenient to use, so we could be talking about micrometers per hour squared (though given the units I chose, mm/sec^2 might be relatively close units). Putt Time 1% (50) 2% (100) 3% (150) Delta 10t 2500d 5000d 7500d +/- 2500d 12t 3600d 7200d 10800d +/- 3600d Let's assume the pro reads a putt as 2%. If he plays it firmly, and he's off by 1%, his ball will deviate from the line he read by 2500 distance units (say, 2.5cm). If he's wrong by that same 1%, but hits the ball more softly, and it takes longer to get to the hole… he's going to be off by 3600 distance units (say 3.6cm). A 120% difference (1.2) in time becomes a 144% (1.44) gap in the line. The firmer putt gives our golfer here a larger margin for error in his read. In graphic form, putts would look something like this, where the middle line of each is the proper read (this isn't to scale or the top and bottom blue and red lines would actually be a bit farther apart): If our golfer chooses to hit the ball at 2' past speed (red) or 4' past speed (blue), and 2500d translates to 0.75 inches offline (a make, with the flagstick in, as it is within the 1.8" zone), then his error will send his slower putted ball (red) 1.08" (0.75 * 1.44) offline, which is not within the 1.9" width allowed for a make. He'll miss with the slower putt, and make (comfortably) with the blue putt. In other words, and simplified… when you putt a little bit firmer, a putt has less time to deviate from the line before it reaches the hole if you misread the putt slightly. The faster putt gives you more margin for error in misreading your putt. Good players have known this for a long time. That's why PGA Tour pros rap the ball in the back of the hole (even without the flagstick). That's why you hear "I'll just firm it in and take the break out of it." They're not hitting the ball with 6' past speed… they just hit it with 3' past speed or so, to increase the margin of error on their read. Yes, they're comfortable at hitting their lines to within a small percentage, but as we know already, PGA Tour players make 77% of their putts, and that includes all putts… whether they misread them, hit them too softly or too firmly, etc. So > 77% of the time, they are able to hit their line pretty darn well. Within about half a degree, that number is actually well into the 90% range. 4. Players, particularly poorer putters, leave a lot of putts from 6' to 15' short. This change would let them be more aggressive. Higher handicap golfers leave a lot of their putts short from 6-15'. Just look at this chart, which pretty much matches what @david_wedzik and I have charted: On that chart, you'll see that the 90s golfer leaves over 10% of their 8' putts short of the hole, and nearly 30% of their 15' putts have no chance of going in because they don't even reach the hole! In a chart (there's no real scale here, but you may pretend the vertical line is at 15' or so), these results may look like this, with green representing good golfers, and red representing bad golfers: If leaving the flagstick in and making the come-back putt easier increases the confidence of the two groups to where they can hit their putts with the pace to go just one foot further, we might see a chart that looked more like this: As you can see here, this means 10-20% of their putts that previously came up short will now reach the hole and have a chance to go in. Now, not all of that 20% will go in, but if even half did, it would be a HUGE bonus. Hell, if even a quarter of the 20% went in, bananas! Who wouldn't want to make 5% more putts from 15' (where the 90s shooter only makes 20% right now… despite leaving nearly 30% short of the hole). Ah, but what about an increase in three-putts? Even without the flagstick, 90s shooters three-putt from 12-15' less than 5% of the time. That number is not going to double by adding one foot of pace to the putts, and even if it did double, it would still only break even if just a quarter of those 20% of putts that now reach the hole fall in. Plus, the flagstick will make the come-back putts easier to make. This advice, btw, to make sure you get your 6-15' putts to the hole, applies whether the flagstick is in or out, under the proposed rules or the current rules. This is advice you should follow now, and advice which would only be more relevant and important should this proposed rule actually be put into place in 2019. 5. The situations where the flagstick should be removed (it leans too much, it's moving around a lot in the wind) almost never occur. I debated even leaving this one in here. The first four reasons are pretty strong, IMO. But it's here, and I'll try to be quick about it. The flagstick impedes a ball going in under two very rare circumstances: The flagstick leans toward you so much a ball will not fit between it and the hole. (If it leans toward or away from you a little, it's actually even more advantageous than if the flagstick is straight up and down. So we're only talking about a LOT of lean, and only toward you, in this case.) The flagstick is jostling around in the hole because of high winds or something so it could knock your ball away. (Even this one requires perfect "bad" timing - if the flagstick is jostling away from your ball at the time of impact, your chances of holing the putt are increased even more over a steady flagstick left in.) So, if one was forced to make up some advice about putting with the flagstick in, and they understood ALL of the above five points, they would still conclude that you should leave the flagstick in, even if the advice was not allowed to add the addendum "unless one of these two situations exists." These two situations almost never occur. The ball is almost always helped by the flagstick being in the hole. 6. The flagstick offers an aid - it gives the player yet another point or two at which to aim. I've seen advice on shorter putts about aiming at a small blade of grass at the back of the cup, or where you want the ball to enter the cup, or other sorts of things. Jordan Spieth, for a number of years (he may still do it, I don't know) used to look AT the hole when putting short-ish putts… So, and yes, this is a very small reason or "pro," but that's why it's #6 and only gets three paragraphs: a flagstick can offer another thing at which to aim. It provides visual certainty as to where the middle of the hole is, and players and caddies can say things like "right edge of the stick" or "half a ball outside the stick" or whatever. For straight-ish putts, the flagstick is in the middle of the hole, and obviously offers a nice aiming point. Never mind that the flagstick shadow can be quite helpful in aiming. There have been a number of times when teaching AimPoint classes or playing by myself that where the flagstick shadow was on the green, on the edge of the hole, etc. was helpful in offering an aim point for my putting. In summary… Here's the deal… With the flag out, at 1' past, the capture width of a hole is 2.6". At 2' past, it's 1.9". At 3', it's 1.4", and at 4' it's 0.9". With the flag in, at 1' past, the capture width of a hole is 2.6". At 2' past, it's 1.9". At 3', it's 1.85", and at 4' it's 1.8". At 5', it's 1.7". For good putters, who can reasonably control their start lines to +/- about 0.9" at the hole, adding a little pace to their short-ish putts can remove some wobble, provide more margin for error on their reads, and allow them to make more putts. The flagstick offers a significant advantage. For poor putters… even if you just keep putting the same way you are now (except please take our advice on not leaving so many makeable putts short - hit them just a little harder), leaving the flagstick in can not hurt you, and on the putts you "goose" a little, can only really help you. Maybe you're confident from 4' at hitting the flagstick, but not from 6'. Or from 3' but not even 5'. Either way, it can't hurt you, and can only help you… just not as much as it can help a good putter. The "cons" above assume everyone's going to be smacking the ball at the hole so it runs out several feet farther than it does now. The cons above can be completely eliminated if everyone just putts as they do now, and recognizes situations where hitting the ball a bit firmer and using the flagstick is advantageous. There's no downside here. Not if you're smart enough to take the flagstick out (or re-center it in the hole) when it's leaning 30° toward you… And that is why I'm opposed to this rule. It's only really an advantage. The USGA and R&A are wrong that it will offer no advantage, and in fact, I would imagine that it will offer the biggest advantage to the better players. Despite the fact that, say, they make 77% of their five-footers while the 90s golfer makes 50%, and thus have a smaller range to improve (23% versus 50%), I still imagine, if this rule passed and was instituted, that we might see that 77% go up by a larger percentage than we see the 50% increase. In truly closing, look, this post was composed over three days, and multiple hours, and many, many stops and starts. I retain the right to fix any errors, tweak my conclusion, and otherwise to edit. For anything that affects the actual points and isn't just grammatical or spelling in nature, I'll note it publicly in this topic discussion. I encourage everyone to read this over, and to consider what I've said, and to discuss. I think this is important, and I think the USGA/R&A are risking seriously altering the game if this proposed rule sticks. I'm fighting this fight because I care about golf, and I do not think that we should be playing into anything but a hole, ultimately, for the shots that are more likely to go in - putts from on the green. I'd support a rule that let you keep the flagstick in the hole for putts outside of a certain distance, like 20', because for those I could perhaps be swayed by pace of play arguments… but I don't think such a rule will exist because then we'd have to be able to measure 20' or 7 yards or some distance pretty accurately (and often quickly).
  15. I have been working on putting lately, primarily bead and speed (I will work on read in the future, when I am able to take an AimPoint class). At least I think I have been. I've been doing drills, but maybe I'm more finding out what I do wrong than fixing them. It's now getting more than the baseline 15% of my practice time (GG tells me I'm losing more strokes there, by quite a margin, compared to other parts of my game), but I want to make sure that time is well spent and leads to improvement. I worry that I may be getting into the "just hitting balls at the range" equivalent for putting. My problem is, when I'm doing drills and learning that I am not hitting my goals (not getting the ball across the ruler for that drill, taking many iterations to do a 4' 8' 12' drill, etc), how do I figure out what, if anything to change? I also worry that when doing a clock drill, if I miss from the same position on a few iterations, my next attempt from there might be a false read by what happened, not because I read it wrong, but because I kept pushing from there and thus aim left to make it. I'm fine with the idea of compensating for a miss during a round, but I don't want to do that when I'm practicing. I know that putting particulars vary wildly; should this be a case of "go back to the Utley putting book and review each chapter in order," or is there something else I can do to help on this? Timeline wise, my club championship is in a little over a month. I'm not in cramming mode at the moment, and I would like to be a better putter by then, but my overall goal is long-term improvement not peaking for this particular event.
  16. lets say i putt and chip for an hour to 2 hours every single day for 60 days straight, and lets also say that i am a relatively new golfer that started this summer and shoots around a 55, do you think doing this would increase my scores pretty drastically? and if so by how much like how much would it really help and be worth it? i understand that putting/chipping makes up for half or even more than half your strokes so it basically makes it the most important part of the game. So how much would doing this much practice really help and lower my scores?
  17. I'll keep this short and sweet. I'm issuing a challenge to everyone here that can get out to a practice putting green and do this. Warm up putting around the green to get a feel for the speeds. Find a hole with a little slope to it. Not flat, but nothing crazy either (3% or so is fine). The putt should have 4-5' around it in all directions on the putting green. Put 12 balls down at the 12 clock positions and 4-5' away from the hole. Putt them toward the hole and count how many of the 12 you make. Put the flagstick in. Go to another hole and hit a few putts to get used to how firmly you can hit the putts and how little break you have to play.* Try to hit the ball with enough pace to go about 4' past the hole only. (Make sure the flagstick is pretty straight up and down, and ideally, it's somewhat like those available on the course. Bonus points if you can borrow a flagstick like those used on the course for your tests. Ask the head pro or superintendent.) Put 12 balls down in the same spots and repeat the process with the flagstick in. Count the number of putts you make. Repeat once or twice if you're not bored. This will get you 12, 24, or 36 putts of each type. Post your results here in this thread. Be honest. Also post your observations, like "I found it difficult to play so little break and missed a few putts high with the flagstick in." Or whatever you feel or think or observe. * I am allowing a brief amount of practice before both types - warm up (practicing) before you putt without the flagstick, and then warm up (practice) just how firmly you have to hit putts and how little break you have to play with the flagstick in. Again, 4' past the hole only. My advice is NOT to hit the ball with 10' past capture speed. Even if a bunch of you hit 72 putts each (36 to each configuration), this won't be too much more than anecdotal evidence, but I'm pretty sure that we'll find - within the limits of people's ability to quickly get comfortable with the break/speed of the flagstick-in method - that the flagstick in will noticeably increase the make percentage. I'll have a few of the kids do this downtown and will chart their results for them in this thread. Give every putt your best effort. Post multiple times if you like - if you try this several times, or if you get some buddies to do it, etc. I'll assign every entry a number and will draw a random number at the end for a small prize.
  18. I'm sure it's not just me. Just got back from our yearly golf pilgrimage in Arizona (which was incredible) and I'm the worst putter in the group, even worse than guys who are 5-8 shots worse than me hcp wise. One round I lost track of how many 3-putts after six times. I'm about 50% from 3-5 ft. Longer putts I'd save time and strokes by just taking 2 putts and staying in the cart. I have a hard time getting putts to start on line which makes it hard to make short ones. The putter tends to go all over the place on my backswing. Some things I've tried: Different types of putters (face vs. toe balanced). Left hand low (which is how I putt now). Claw grip. Putting mirror and rail. Putter wheel. Eyes closed (some success, but nothing long term). This at least helps me not watch the putter or look up too soon. I had pros look at my stroke on SAM a while back. My stroke is better one handed (either hand) than with both hands. Stroke tends to be fairly straight back, then follow through long and too far left. Everyone says putt with their shoulders, but what's the best move to start the putter back? Pull with your right shoulder blade? Push down with left shoulder? Thanks for the comments.
  19. I've struggled with putting for years. I've tried different putters, different grips, different techniques, all for naught. See my other post about "Anyone else have this much trouble putting?" This past week, I saw this video: I practiced this in my garage a couple of days, just working on getting a good roll and getting my eyes in a position where everything looked lined up, then I played yesterday and BAM! I had one of the best putting days I've ever had. I have no relation to this person or company, I just stumbled upon this video and hopefully it'll help other people. I made two birdies and a couple of par savers from 10-20' and had three 40'+ that either lipped out or stopped literally a ball's width from the hole! Even my friends were commenting on how well I was rolling it. I have no idea how I'll putt next time, but until then I'm just going to enjoy the memory!
  20. My putting is absolutely atrocious. Unfortunately my instructor has moved to another state and we had only worked on full swing. My full swing I'm able to work on myself for now and probably for quite some time but I've had zero putting instruction. My full swing is leaps and bounds ahead of my putting game right now. My last 2 full rounds of golf I averaged 2.7 putts per hole. Totally not kidding guys and gals, it's bad. I've been focused and practiced on my own on my inside green and at my local practice green but I cannot seem to master a consistent stroke. I think it's something someone needs to take a look at from the outside and see what I may be doing wrong? I could really use some recommendations for good putting instructors in the area (North Carolina). Last time I went out on my own to find one without a recommendation I wasted a lot of money. I don't even care if I have to make a drive. The strokes shaved will be worth it! Thanks in advance!
  21. I posted a question asking the rationale for a two stroke penalty for hitting the flagstick while putting from the green. I came to realize that the rationale was to prevent golfers from using the flagstick in long range or steep downhill situations from acting as a backstop thus avoiding a three putt. What got sticky was the question of putting or chipping from just off the green where your intent is to sink the putt not just to try to stop it close to the hole. My experience and that of most of the good golfers I have played with is your odds go up if you remove the flagstick. However, some people on the previous post insisted without any real evidence that I was wrong. So just for kicks and giggles I'd love to do a poll to hear what most people on this site do in that situation. To make it specific lets say the ball is resting not more than three feet off the green is relatively level and without a severe break and the distance to the hole is under 15 feet. In other words a putt you can have some confidence you could make.
  22. Hello - Can anyone take a look at the placement of this putting tape on my putter? 1) Is the tape too low on the face of my putter? 2) If not, am I hitting the ball too high on the face of the putter? above the 'perfect' spot on the tape 3) how can i fix where I hit the ball if I am hitting it "too high" on the face? Thanks!
  23. Now that I've finished up a bunch of home DIY projects primarily in anticipation of our WHOLE family coming to our house for the Thanksgiving holiday, it is now 1. cold outside, it came quickly, 2. I don't have many projects left and I'd like to do a fun one. I have a 14 x 21 ft. office that is basically an office/man cave all-in-one. My wife and I have no kids yet but we may have one soon. This would be a good opportunity to create something in the house that I can relax and do while still watching the baby. I started my research and found some awesome custom indoor practice greens with fringe and everything... check the price tag and nearly fell out of my chair! $3,000-$6,000 for something like what I was thinking. I would say my budget is < $1,000. It would be built over the existing tight berber carpet. My main focuses are: 1. A quality, durable, even putting surface. My NC greens are bentgrass. They play slow (stimp 9 to 11 if I recall). If I can get something similar to this that would be excellent. I don't mind spending more for higher quality here. 2. I would like fringe around the majority of the perimeter because it should look a little nicer and it would be good practice putting from some fringe (which I often do). Our fringe is typically bermuda - so something like this would be great. I believe my initial design has some good space to include some larger sections of fringe. 3. I do not care about adding break components in this project. I'd rather focus my indoor practice on getting putts on line and some distance control with good, straight and flat feedback on my stroke. 4. I want it to have real holes. I'll also get short flag sticks. I've attached my rough draft I just whipped up of my initial design thoughts. It should be relatively to scale. Rough overall dimensions would be 7' x 17'. Right now I'm thinking I'll make the base out of 2x4, 3.5-in height + 1/2-in drywall is about ~4-inches tall plus putting/fringe surfaces. I'm worried though that because of the overall length of the green that it will flex under the padding of the carpet. Maybe not a big deal though? I might be overthinking that one. For the various more rounded edges I'll just do multiple cuts at varying degrees of edge cut to make a turn and then just cut a more rounded fringe? Or maybe find a more creative way? I think the areas I need the most help with are the surface materials, what type, where to get them, how to apply them best, and also some design components for good practice. Should I make a larger chunk of it fringe? Maybe the first 3-5 ft from the top area all fringe? Hole locations? Different fringe area cutouts? What would you do to maximize practice/drills (but without any break ) Here's some stuff online that I really liked: http://www.carolinacustomputtinggreens.com/indoor-putting-greens I would likely start this build in late February 2017. I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row. TIA!
  24. This came up in a different thread so lets see if you do putt with a finger pointed down the shaft, if you did putt with a finger down the shaft or you use a different grip all together. If you select other, you can tell us your grip style.
  25. http://www.perfectstrokeputtingaid.com The PerfectStroke TPE putting training aid is a multifaceted putting training aid that reinforces a number of good things. It costs about $200 (some discounts are available) including shipping and comes with: A reflective base. Two posts to which you can attach… … one or two carbon fiber bars. … and one of two clear plastic strips with different alignment lines (single, double). The TPE can be used in a variety of combinations. You can attach or detach one or both carbon fiber rails and you can use use either (or neither) of the clear plastic alignment rails, which can also be oriented outward or inward if you're looking to encourage an exaggeration to change a stroke. The reflective base is great for seeing where your shoulders, your eyeliner, and things like that are at setup. The rails assist you in keeping the putter "on plane." If your putter stays on plane, it's tough to mis-hit the putt, and it's tougher (though not impossible of course) to over- or under-rotate the putter face. The alignment strips help you to line up square to the target line, with your feet, putter, etc. working back and through properly (ideally slightly inside the line on both sides, though how much it appears to do so will depend on where your eyes are aligned relative to the strip. Some Videos: This last video shows how easily the TPE can be set up: Over the next little bit, I'll be playing with and using the TPE 3.0 with students, with myself and my daughter, and checking out what else is possible (though the videos above really do show off the versatility!). Ultimately, I'll decide whether I'll recommend - or recommend against - the TPE 3.0 to golfers and instructors.

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