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Handicap Index

Found 18 results

  1. Bought a new to me shaft pull Hzrdus black 6.5. Cleaned it all up and went to install the adapter and noticed there was alot of pressure. Got it installed and tried it out and it was like a steel rod. My average ss is 118 and I have a pretty aggressive transition. Pulled it off and tried to clean the tip out. Got 3.5 inches into the shaft and it was still solid?!? Did something change? Are shafts not hollow anymore? Dont want to dig further in and break something.
  2. I was hitting a Seve driver Ballesteros 10.5 loft driver and irons with regular flex. Never gave flex much thought until now. Was looking to buy a set of TaylorMade (TM) M1 Irons and 'woods'. To better understand what flex I needed, I went for a 30 min lesson with radar for club head speed and tracker for distance etc. TM recommend assessment using 6 iron and driver. 6 iron head speed was 92 mph and distance 168 yards. TM would rate this as Stiff for distance and Tour Stiff for head speed. The driver head speed wasn't measured but average distance over 100 balls was 258 yards and max was 286 yards. TM would recommend Tour Still for max distance but Stiff for average distance. As I am coming back from a 5-7 year hiatus, the instructor said the head speed and distance would only get better. I took ownership of the M1 .9.5 loft yesterday afternoon. I ordered Stiff in both irons and 'woods' based on instructor recommendation and TM fitting table albeit I was concerned that, should my game improve, I would need Stiffer So here's the question: I was hitting yesterday 258 yards average, and 286 yards max over 100 balls with the old Seve 10.5 loft and reg flex. I expected to blitz that with the new M1 9.5 loft with Stiff flex. I was wrong. I am obtaining only 244 yards average distance over 100 balls and 276 yard. Well short of my Seve. Worth noting that both has similar consistency. Any advice? Is the guide flex chart wrong? Is it the loft insufficient?
  3. So im going to be buying a new shaft for a driver i bought. dont like the shaft at all. its a 915D head. When i cut the shaft how should i measure it? I need a 43 inch shaft, thats what i was fitted for. So is that measurement from the tip of the adapter to the end of the shaft before i put the grip on? Or do i cut the shaft at 43" then put the adapter on? Thanks in advance
  4. Hello, I am hoping someone has experience with this. I have titanium plates and screws on both bones in my forearm on my right arm from an injury. I golf right handed and I have stiff steel shafts. I am in pain 70% of my shots and my question is. Would graphite shafts be more forgiving on my arm? I’ve had the plates since I was 20 and I’m now 41 I doubt i’ll ever get them removed. i have a graphite shafted pitching wedge that I swing for fun and it seems to be less energy transferring to my bones but it is very flexible and obviously not going to match my swing speed. Thank you.
  5. Good Morning, I have finally got some extra spending money to re-shaft my driver shaft that I broke last month. The club is a taylormade burner super fast 2.0 10.5 degree loft. Would it be best to just get it re-shafted with the stock shaft (if thats possible) or is there a particular shaft that would be beneficial for me to try out (22 cap, 95-100 mph swing speed average)? Do you guys typically buy your shaft online and have it re-shafted at a local shop or just have the local shop turnkey it? I am fairly new to details about my golf equipment, and I have always just used what came off the shelf. This broken shaft is giving me an opportunity to explore it a little deeper..just curious as to what to get and where to get it.
  6. Well yesterday I was on Trackman trying to get my shot zones (which was not what I hoped it would be, but thats a different story) and during my driver swings I broke the shaft on my driver!! Caught a couple shots in a row near the heel and all of a sudden it felt like my driver head was loose. It took two more swings to figure out what was causing the feeling, and I looked down and sure enough my driver shaft had a crack in it. I was pretty bummed because I was really looking forward to hitting driver more often, due to what I read about the distant gradient in LSW. Looks like I will either be hitting 3 wood or a Taylormade Minidriver I still have until I can afford a new driver.
  7. I'm having a hard time producing the right launch angle on my driver, last week I worked on a trackman and my carry distance with my driver was on average about 215. My ball speed came in at about 139-141 on average but my launch angle was only at a 9. I haven't shot higher then 82 in the past three months but I feel like if I can get my drivers distance up a tad I can have more shorter irons into greens. I have a stiff shaft that came with my driver (titliest 915 d2). My swing coach says that usually if a players ball speed is under 140 is best to stay with a regular shaft. I'm right on the edge of regular and stiff, will getting a regular shaft make a considerable difference? How can I get my launch angle up to 10-12? Thanks!
  8. Hello there! I went to get fitted for a new driver fully expecting to get the Epic, but turns out the new Ping G400 LTS is the club for me. It keeps my spin rate down low enough and I was getting an extra 15 yards or so of distance from my current driver. However, the club fitter fit me for an after market shaft at $400. I just can't afford to spend almost $900 on a driver right now, so I am going to just purchase one of the stock shafts from Ping but I am looking for some help selecting the right one. I was fitted for a Mitsubishi Diamana W series 60, which of the shaft options would be best for me? The G400 LST Alta Stiff shaft (59g) or the Stiff Tour Shaft (61g). Any suggestions on which would be closest to that one? Thanks!
  9. For the first time in my short golf career, I finally bent a club (4-iron). Unfortunately the shaft is bent and cracked at the ferrule, therefore unsalvageable. Dick’s Sporting Goods wants $57 to replace the shaft. The shaft is a True Temper Dynamic Gold that came stock w/ the club. Dick’s said they could save the grip, which is almost brand new. $57 seems really high to me for this kind of repair. Unfortunately all the local courses also send their clubs out to Dick’s for repair, so I am out of options. Is $57 reasonable for this kind of repair? How difficult is it to do this job at home? I'm afraid this experience has made me paranoid about hitting off of mats.
  10. Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and would like to ask a series of questions mainly pertaining to a 58 degree wedge that I cut down and regripped. Here's the problem: I recently have gotten extremely accurate with my 54 and 58 degree wedges. Though I've never been fitted for wedges, I noticed that when I started to get really accurate with them I was always choking down. I mean a good 2in's down on full shots(3/4 swings). Being able to stop it where it lands, one hop stops, low shots, high shots, everything. On occasion all that extra shaft would get in the way or make some shots that seemed easy, complicated, so I did what anyone would do, I cut it. I measured how much I was gripping down, left an extra 1/4 inch that my palm wouldnt contact and cut it. Now the club is so different I can only control it on chips and short pitches, but anything beyond 60 yrs is a disaster. I was previously able to use that 58 from 85yrds to the green comfortable. Here are the changes I've made. Original set up: Mizuno mp t4 58/10 stock everything to include standard grip, with stock dg spinner shaft, wedge flex. Changes: Cut 2.25 in from shaft, regripped with golf pride tour velvet midsize grip. I know that sounds short but that is an awesome length for me. I just need to know how to get the feel back. I was thinking lead tape, but how much? Thanks in advance!
  11. So my Mizuno MP67's have DG S300 shafts in them. I like them and have them in my Miura's. I got some Mizuno wedges for Christmas and they have DG Spinner shafts in them. This will be the first set of irons I have that do not have the same shafts in all of them. Will this be an issue? Does anyone have any feedback for these shafts? How about anyone playing these in their wedges but different shafts in their irons? I want to take them out and try them but have not had the chance yet. I have been chipping plastic balls in the house and so far they feel pretty good. Not sure if they will feel/act differently in the grass with real balls.
  12. Hello, I've recently been changing a couple of things up in my swing and game for a couple of reasons and it has been moving along nicely, however I am having trouble hitting my driver. Everything in my bag up to driver I am getting consistent results with, albeit not always what I want. My driver however seems to be very inconsistent in terms of dispersion and flight, moreso than I think it should be relative to the consistency of the rest of my game. I play a Taylormade R15 with the stock Speeder 661 Tour spec in X flex with a larger midsized grip and cut down to 42 inches. It is also the 430 cc head. I have hit a couple of my friends drivers ranging from the M1/M2 to the 915 all with stiff, low launch/spin shafts choking up to the 42-43 inch range. I seem to be getting a lot more consistent results, although they are much too high and spinny with a big fade, but atleast it is consistent. So my question is could this possibly be an equipment issue or is it likely just me. The other drivers I have tried do seem to be a lot more consistent but I am not entirely convinced it isn't just a placebo or me swinging better or something when I try them. When a driver is cut down 3 inches from the butt does that drastically impact launch conditions? Is maybe an X flex simple too stiff for me to hit a repeatable and smooth swing with, and are there other ways to drop spin? Does swingweight have much impact on how consistently the club is delivered (mine still feels heavy but I have no idea what the swing weight is)? Are the newer drivers simply more forgiving than my 430 cc head and maybe that is why I am seeing differences? I'm thinking maybe it would be best for me to get a newer driver in the 460 head with a stiff flex shaft and Im going to lengthen it to 42.5 inches. Sorry if that is confusing I can add more detail if need be. Thanks
  13. I have been playing golf for about 5 years now but never really invested time into equipment or training but that has all changed. I got a deal on basically mint JPX 800 pro clubs with KBS Tour X shafts. I had my swing speed clocked around 110 at about 90% effort so I was told the X shafts would work for me but I have some worries. The other day on the range I was hitting shots at about 70% effort which I was spreading the ball (slice/hook/fat) but when I bumped up the effort to 90% I was hitting straight screamers that had penetrating flight with fades. Obviously distances between the 2 efforts were incredibly different (50+ yrds) as well. My worry: at 70% I felt more in control of my swing and more consistent with my technique but at 90% I felt that though I maintained my technique I had little control/stability; yet the ball flight was the complete opposite for the 2 efforts. Was this due to the shaft stiffness and slowing my swing down or was trying to slow my swing down throwing off my timing/ tempo causing my troubles? Or is this just a simple case of needing my practice so that I become comfortable swinging my club at 90% effort? What should I do?
  14. Hey guys, I recently got a bomb tech grenade driver that plays 45.5" I'm going to shave down the driver length to 44.5 from the butt end. The current swing weight is d2 and I'd like to stay between d1-d2. Will adding lead tape underneath the grip increase the swing weight? I have no interest in adding lead tape to the driver head.
  15. Ramnation

    My Swing (Ramnation)

    6'5" 230, two torn shoulders, and in the woods Jk, but really. First post here, but not new to a forum community. Quick back ground. Played baseball til I was 24, have a slap tear in both my labrums from it, and need some help with swing path due to range of motion. My lead (left) shoulder has a tendency to click when my backswing is on the ideal path, so my natural path gets reallyyy shallow to subconsciously avoid that pain. I shoot anywhere from a 74-85 and the driver is all 11 of those strokes.Thanks a bunch in advance. Been a long time reader -- look forward to contributing where I can.
  16. When say things like "Sergio plays a driver at 43 inches ", etc. Or, "the standard driver length is 45.5". Are they referring to the shaft length (tip to grip) or the total club length with clubhead installed? How much length does the clubhead add to the shaft length for an average 460cc driver? Apologies if this has been discussed before.. Many thanks in advance!
  17. I've been gaming TEE XCG3s w/ ProjectX 6.0 (stiff+) for about 6 months with the thought that these shafts are too stiff for my swing. the P6 have the following flexes; 5.0-Regular, 5.5-Stiff, 6.0-Stiff+, 6.5-XStiff and 7.0-Tour XStiff. My swing speed is about 106mph (play Stiff in Driver, 3 wood and 4 rescue) but isn't up to speed for these Stiff+ shafts IMO. My dispersion is pushed right, straight, and pulled left....with a push right being the dominate approach shot. I had a friend explain soft-stepping iron shafts to me (putting 3iron shaft in 4iron, 4iron in 5iron and so on) which softens the flex to what we guessed would be about a 5.6-5.7 flex in Project X shafts. Of course I would need to get a shaft for my 3 iron and have read that this will help (on the true temper youtube channel) and can only do this process 2x. Any thoughts or recommendations on this process!? Being the irons are 5-6 yo, I don't want to put a lot of $$$ into all new shafts. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  18. I currently have a set of Ping i15 irons that are 3-4 years old. I like these irons and I'm not one to upgrade often (I played with my previous set of irons for over 10 years). However, I can't help but wonder if I could benefit from better and newer technology. How often should one upgrade their irons? Has the technology advanced enough in the last few years to justify spending $1200 or more on a new set or is that what the golf industry just wants me to think?
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