NCHank

I've only been playing a month or so after a long, long absence and after trying several different balls settled on the e6. I did try one of the others on your short list, the Supersoft, but it was too soft and I didn't get nearly as much distance as with the e6. Don't think I'm ready for the Pro V1x's yet... .

Thank you for the list of options. I must admit I am somewhat overwhelmed by the myriad of clubs available today vs. what I could choose from in the '80's and '90's. After doing some component pricing, I'm thinking that buying used but original may be less expensive than my proposed re-shafting project.

I want a set of good quality, used forged clubs, but the problem is that nearly all of the used iron sets I see have stiff shafts. At age 71, I can't take advantage of them so I was thinking of re-shafting a set with regular shafts. So, why do the forged irons have stiff shafts? Is there something about the metallurgy of a forged head that requires a stiff shaft, is it that better players buy them and they have the higher club head speed needed, or something else. If putting regular flex shafts in older forged heads (MP-33's) is not going to give me a good feeling and hitting club, I won't do it. Your input is very much appreciated.

Thanks for the picture and explanation, Shorty. The worst of mine on the 7 and PW were not that dark but larger. They cleaned up well enough for me, but I'll have to try to tap the large ding on the 7 iron down a bit.

They are MP-33's and I did buy them today. $75.00 for 3-PW sounded like an OK price for my project. They remind me a little of "The Standards" I played with many years ago. The grooves look alright except the 7,8, and PW could use a little dressing up but they're not flattened. They have the usual bag dings and a few "hey, I didn't know there was a rock under there" marks, but again, nothing that would keep me from playing them when I'm finished. The shop owner said he would help me pick some shafts when I was ready and he'll measure to make sure I get them the right length for my swing. Time to start pricing some components. dkolo, the guy who had these was no pro. The dark spots are more like a silver dollar.... .

As I look for a set of used, forged irons for my winter project, I notice that a lot of the irons on Ebay have some discoloration on their faces especially lower numbered clubs and wedges. The Mizuno's seem to have more than others. Is this something to avoid or can they be cleaned with steel wool or wet/dry sandpaper. Is there something about the metal or process that Mizuno uses that makes them more susceptible to discoloration?? I was leaning toward getting a set of those but not if they won't stay looking nice after cleaning.

Thank you for your observations and advice, Mike. Both of those models look like good candidates if this latest development doesn't work out. I was talking to an old golfing friend recently about my "project" and he has just given me a set (4-PW) of Wilson Staff Gooseneck irons. Based on the used clubs I see on Ebay, I would rate them between good and very good condition. The shafts are labeled Dyna-Step, 02A 530056, and have a red band below the first step. He doesn't remember what flex they are so I've been looking on the internet for information. My best guess is that they are stiff, but I'm still trying to confirm that. I did hit the six iron today before the rain set in and it felt really nice. Only getting about 145-150 yards with it, but that is more than enough distance for the local courses I play. I'll try them next time I play a round and see what happens; should be very interesting... .

dkolo, thank you for the courtesy of a reply and for the comments on the issue of hitting the older forged irons. I agree they are more difficult to hit well, but there is the challenge for me. I am not as concerned now with my scores as I was years ago. It's more about doing what I want to and what I want to do it with.... . A few pars in a round playing with some old forged irons would be as satisfying to me as a couple birdies with the GI clubs. I'm just not familiar with the post 2000 forged irons and am not certain how they would "feel" compared to the earlier irons.

I'm getting back into golf after nearly 15 years of not playing regularly. I have a set of Cleveland TA5's that I play reasonably well, but I remember the feel of the forged irons I used with when I started in the '70's and would like to have another set. I'm 71, retired, and enjoy projects so I'm thinking of buying a set of older, forged irons and re-shafting and re-gripping them. What are your thoughts on the differences, if any, between the forged irons manufactured during the past 15 years vs. the pre-2000 forged irons? I played a set of The Standards by Palmer before I bought the Cleveland's, and I can find another set for my project, but would consider newer irons if there is a reason (a local shop has a set well used Mizuno MP-33's for $75) Whatever I choose to re-work will be blades not cavity backs or whatever the correct term is. A little more information: I have re-shafted and re-gripped clubs, I understand this is a looser money-wise, but less expensive than my last hobby which was target shooting, and I enjoy hitting balls at the range so a set of blades will make me work harder for a good shot which could result in an improved swing with whatever clubs I use,

I have a few questions, but want to make certain I post them in the correct area. I've been looking over the site this afternoon just trying to see how things are organized. A big question is going to be: is it worth the money to buy new clubs? I have Cleveland TA5 irons and a Callaway X 460 driver. I've been hitting balls at the range for about 3 weeks now and have 3 nine hole sessions under my belt. I feel that I need several more range trips to make certain my swing has stabilized before I begin trying the new clubs. A local golf mart has Callaway, Titleist, Mizuno, and Ping demo's and I'm looking forward to seeing how the new irons and shafts feel compared to my old TA5's. Hope this approach makes sense. Hank

I've been away from golf about 15 years, but at the tender age of 71 I decided I wanted to play again. My lowest handicap when I played regularly was a 5. So, taking my best back then and adding 15 which is the number of years I've not been playing, I'm hoping to have a 20 handicap in a few months. I'm very impressed with the information I've read here and look forward to getting up to speed on the current equipment and improving my game by learning from you folks.