zanemoseley

Well I googled it and looks like a unanimous NO to a stiff shaft with the intent on fixing a slice. For the life of me I don't understand why my 3 wood shots are so much nicer than the driver. I know the driver is a longer club but its not "that" much longer.

I'm still a noob (100+) and have fought a slice ever since starting. My set of clubs is a bit pieced together: TM Burner 2008 Reg. Shaft Titleist 904 3 Wood Stiff Shaft TM Rescue 3h Stiff Shaft Ping I3's with steel shafts I thought I was always slicing the driver because its the longest and most difficult to control club and me being a noob. So this led to me using the 3 wood a lot from the tee. On the couple range visits I've had this early Spring to start warming up I'm still slicing the driver horribly but when I hit my 3 wood it is much more straight, sometimes even straight as an arrow. Same goes for the 3h, I usually hit it fairly decent. I've had stretches where I could hit straight drives and even had a few hooks but by far my worst part of the drive is severe slices. So since my 3W and 3h have stiff shafts and seem to be going fairly straight does this mean I should fit my Burner with a stiff shaft or is this just a waste of money trying to bandaid my poor swing?? I never thought of myself as having an extremely fast swing speed but perhaps its faster than I think (I'm 6'0", 185lb and 28yrs old). Actually I always thought it was a macho/douchbag move for noobs to fit drivers with stiff and x-stiff shafts when their skill was the obvious deficit. I do plan on getting some lessons finally this Spring after getting back in the groove a bit. Just wondering if I should make the move to a stiff shaft and get the hang of it before some lessons?

Just finishing my 2nd season. My first season I only played about 9 holes a week but got hooked quick, ended the season with a nasty slice. This year I've played a lot more, usually 18-27 holes a week. I got rid of the slice for the most part but picked up a nasty hook. My mid to short game improved greatly but I rarely count a full/accurate score as I take too many mulligans, mostly off the tee. Next season I plan to take 6-8 lessons to get a proper swing/grip/stance developed. I don't want to get to far in just to have to rebuild. By the end of next season I'd like to be playing each round without mulligans and counting a true score. I'd almost be happy with it being under 100 if it was really honest. I'd prefer 95 or even 90 but don't want to be greedy. Long term I'd like to drop 5 strokes a year. So if I get to 100 in 2012 I'd be thrilled to be at an honest 80 by the end of 2016, I'm only 28 now so have time. Given I've never been the most athletic type I'm not sure if being a near scratch golfer is in my future. Hole in ones too me would be fun but to me represent too much of a fluke event, none the less your odds are greatly increased as you skill increases.

Twins huh.... Hope your game isn't as bad as mine lol.

Just ordered the 35" Lined putter. I'll have to have my wife put it in her closet before I get to look at it to keep the suspense going till Christmas. Glad I went to the store today though because prior to going I thought 34" was the standard length but after trying a few putters I realized 35" was the right length for me (I'm 6'0"). Wish I was right handed though, it would make trying out clubs so much easier.

Great feedback guys. I think I'm going with the lines. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something special about the no line version.

So I'm thinking of buying one of these putter for myself for Christmas. Rock Bottom Golf has LH versions (I'm a lefty) on ebay for $50 with shipping. I just can't decide between lined or un-lined. My gut says to get the ones with lines but is there some magical alignment at work if I just have the 2 balls only? I guess I don't entirely understand the 2 ball alignment system. I went to the local sporting goods store today to see what they had to look at and of course the only LH odyssey they had was a blade, of course most of theirs were $150+.

So this is my second season golfing and probably play 90-100 not counting my mulligans off the tee box which I need to work on next season, so realistically 110 with all penalties probably. My putting is pretty poor, it really just hasn't been my emphasis for improving this season. I got a used Ping Pal putter when I started that is pretty old and I'm not really in love with it. Occasionally I make a nice putt but I make a lot of poor ones too. I'm not under the impression that its all the putter but I'm wondering how much better new putters are than this dinosaur? Are they just prettied up versions or are there substantial improvements?

Our local courses don't do a good job if any of ever grouping singles in with other players even on busy days. This last Sunday I decided to get 9 holes in walking at a local course that was busy and the clubhouse made no attempt at pairing me with others. By the 2nd hole I already had a twosome behind me while I was waiting on a foursome in front. I ended up playing with the pair. I wouldn't have expected the foursome to let me through as they had players ahead of them too. Just makes common sense to do so if its busy. On the other hand if the course is half empty then I'd expect to at least be given the option of playing through even though I don't really like to. A couple weeks ago a group of 5 (yes 5, and I've seen the same group play with 6) let me play through and not being the best play ever I get a bit anxious about 5 guys watching me play while I'm trying not to hit them.

Ok well I've decided I'm just going to make my own outdoor putting green in my backyard lol. I live on a a 2 acre sloped lot and my backyard/sideyard already has a 1000 sqft vegi garden but I have plenty of room left for a green. It should have plenty of nice breaks. I was worried about the cost of the greens mower but I've found a McLane push greens mower for just over $300, or I may look at used powered unit but repair costs scare me. My biggest hurdle is going to be my crappy TN clay soil, I'll have to heavily amend the soil to improve its drainage. I will probably get a small indoor green to practice on this winter though.

Yeah I saw that tutorial the other night, I saw how he just shimmed it to create break.. I have access to some pretty capable software at work as well as a CNC panel router for cutting curves in parts but that would mainly be for making the perimeter shape cool. I had an idea of somehow trying to blend/slope the height of the main putting surface (say 6") with the concrete basement floor with some type of material and apply a rough type turf for some short chipping. I could possibly get away with some 15-16' chips. I also checked out the Birdie Ball putting mat. It looked a bit promising. I even looked and I could fit the 27' x 4' mat in my basement if I could fold it up when I wanted to play pool. But I searched for some reviews of it and some are better than others. Sounds like the consensus is that they putt ok but look kind of cheapy. Not great considering I was looking at spending almost $200 for the long one to get my putting in shape. I know $200 isn't much for a mat but I don't like wasting money on something that doesn't last.

Well thats part of the issue, how do I add contour to an indoor putting green? And if I were to add contour to the substrate how do you then cover it with the synthetic turf without getting wrinkling or other problems. I guess if the contour was gradual then it wouldn't pose a problem with covering. Otherwise its just redundant straight putts.

So my second season of golf is nearing its end and I'm looking at something to keep me doing something this Winter. I have a large basement although half (1000 sq/ft) is already a dedicated woodworking shop. I cannot get by with a full swing due to the ceiling height but a putting mat/green would be an option. I work for a production cabinet plant so I can build the green platform relatively inexpensive or even free from scraps but the synthetic turf is $2.50+ per sq/ft delivered from what I've seen, not using crappy green outdoor carpet. The material I've found is in 15' widths, you just buy the length in the other direction you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Wide-Artificial-Synthetic-Turf-Putting-Green-Grass-/220812487341?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var;=&hash;=item7914e636f7 What I can't decide is the shape of the green. I may be able to fit something as large as 7' x 15' (turf cost $240) with 3-4 holes, I could also shape it a bit but that would be for looks more than anything. Alternatively I could do a straight 2' x 15' (turf cost $80) that would only have one hole, I could move closer/further from the hole to practice different length putts. So would I gain much of anything from a larger multi-hole green in which the longest putt is not much longer than 15' and many of the holes for the most part are redundant? I guess more than anything the larger green would just have the "cool" factor that a smaller straight green would lack.

I'm just curious because I have been playing some used clubs for over a year, the Ping I3 irons (4-PW) I have are still looking really good and were nice to start but the Vokey's I bought were rough looking and cheap (~$30 ea) but look rough on the faces. The two I have look similar to this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/LH-TITLEIST-GOLF-BV-VOKEY-60-WEDGE-STEEL-SHAFT-/130537144555?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item1e649ec0eb I like hitting them (54 & 58) but I'm sure most single digit hc golfers wouldn't even play them due to such decreased spin with deteriorated grooves. Did this just mean whoever played with them before me hit out of a lot of bunkers or sandy soil? Or are wedges softer metal than typical irons?

So I'm on year two of playing, not counting the bit I played when I was younger. I've been battling the problems as I find them and my game is improving. Most recently I've been trying to work on my slice (to the left, I'm LH), it was VERY bad with the driver to the point where I started using a 3 wood to tee off. After watching some videos I found that my grip was flawed, it was very weak, the "V" on my top hand (right hand) faced my front shoulder. Once I got both "V's" going to my rear (left) shoulder my drives are starting to straighten out nicely and long too, I think a good one goes about 280. I've also switched from an interlocking grip to an overlapping grip which I've heard is less likely to slice. Now the problem, I used to be able to hit my mid irons fairly well and straight. Now since fixing my grip I am hooking them which is a problem I NEVER had before. Before I couldn't hook it if my life depended on it. Is my grip too strong for the irons but just right for the driver? Should I adjust the grip depending on the club I'm swinging? Perhaps I need more of a neutral grip (top "V" toward the chin area) for my irons. Just curious what you guys do. If I can straighten out all my clubs I think I'll be under 100 by the end of the season.