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TennisGolf Love

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  1. Seriously, thanks so much guys. You've answered my questions so well, and given me enough to chew on for a while. This is exactly the sort of information I've been looking for; it's becoming apparent that golf club variance is a little more complex than it is for tennis racquets. Getting the opinions of people like yourselves really helps me cut through all the crap and narrow it down. Learning the game properly is my primary concern. I don't mind going through the steep learning curve, even if it takes years, as long as I know I'm doing it the right way and progressing. My goal is to eventually shape shots, learn to hit proper backspin, etc., so my "thinking" is I don't want clubs that mask my swing defects. Thanks for the heads up on the MPF chart. I'm going to delve into it later tonight when I have some time. P.S. - I was browsing a local golf store today and saw a used set (4-PW) of Titleist 690 MB's for $110, so I figured what the hell...I can always return in 30 days if I absolutely hate them.
  2. One more thing...any advice in this area would be appreciated, not just direct answers to my main questions. Thanks again 8)
  3. Greetings all, A little background: I've been an avid tennis player and teaching professional for many years. When I started playing tennis, I was overwhelmed with the equipment choices and took it upon myself to learn all I could. In tennis you have what are referred to as Game-Improvement Racquets and Player's Racquets. I firmly believe my choice of racquet(s) in the beginning helped forge me into the player I am today. G.I. Racquets Game-improvement rackets are the result of all the modern technology available to manufacturers. The game-improvement are designed for beginner to intermediate players who lack ability to generate the power and control of an advanced player with much more developed form/technique. In comparison to a "Player-Frame", the biggest differences are usually: -Very light weight -Oversized head (greater than 100 square inches in area) -Thicker beams (shaft) So, without going any further into the details of racquet design, these changes make it "easier" for lesser-skilled players to hit decent shots and play a more enjoyable game. They provide enhanced power (thicker beams and greater trampoline effect with large headsize), larger sweetspots (with the larger headsize) which also reduces shanking, and greater mobility (from the lighter weight). Game-improvement frames are also considered to be more forgiving and feature greatly reduced feedback (vibration) on mishits.These racquets are wonderful for players who are happy with their game and have no real desire to put in the immense effort normally required to improve stroke mechanics. However, for anyone who aspires to attain a higher level of proficiency, these racquets can be a poor choice in the long-run. Despite the advantages offered, game-improvement frames sometimes lead to poor form fundamentals, as they allow players to mask deficiencies in their tennis game on many levels. Player's Frames (Tour Racquets) - Usually significantly heavier - Generally a headsize no greater than 100 square inches - Thinner beams for greater feel The design of most player frames combines minimal modern technology with old-school purity. Basically, a player's racquet is a much more demanding tool and beginner to intermediate level players may struggle, but in the right hands it becomes a surgeon's scalpel. If you have good fundamentals, a players frame will reward you....etc. Anyway, that being said, there are some exceptions to these rules. The Williams sisters, for instance, use a 104 square inch headsize, but it suits their game which is built on pure dominating power as opposed to precision. Rafael Nadal, generally considered to be the greatest clay-court player of all time, uses a 100square inch racquet with a "lighter" frame than "normal" for a male player with his athletic ability, but it fits his game (and his actual racquet is altered and has added weight compared to the retail version). Roger Federer would be on the other end of the spectrum and uses a Racquet that is heavier and smaller headed than any other player on the Tour. Fed's game is also built on precision and is a unique blend of old-school and new-school play. I chose to start playing tennis with a player's frame and it wasn't easy, but it didn't allow me to "cheat" with my technique. When I hit the ball well, it felt deliciously crisp and buttery...like a laser beam straight off my racquet to my intended target. When I shanked the ball, my racquet provided uncomfortable (vibrating) but direct and accurate feedback. The learning curve was steep and frustrating, but over time I chiseled away the rough edges and eventually developed a very nice game. Blah blah blah... Anyway, so I recently decided to take up golf. I am now completely addicted and actually a little scared it may replace tennis as my #1 favorite sport, something I never anticipated! My perspective on golf and golf equipment is very much influenced by my tennis experience(s), as there seem to be so many parallels between the two sports. I currently own a set of used clubs that were gifted to me. After some research I've learned my clubs are "cavity-backs", the equivalent of game-improvement tennis racquets. I plan to approach golf the way I did with tennis, so as you may already be guessing, I am leaning toward purchasing a set of bladed irons, and herein lies my dilemma. I have many questions for you knowledgeable players and teachers so here goes: 1. Should I buy new or used, considering I'm learning? Do the grooves on the face of the club make so much of a difference for backspin that I need clubs with fresh faces or would an old set with worn club faces be just as good? I don't mind spending the money for new clubs, but only if it's necessary. I also don't mind because a set like this can pretty much stay with me until I die from what I've read. 2. Which brands are the best? For the money everything I've read leans toward Mizuno blades. I've been looking at the MP-69's. 3. How old can I go? Assuming I can get an old set of used blades cheaply off of Ebay where do I draw the line? 4. Shafts? Steel or Graphite? Why? 5. Fitted? Does it really matter that much? As I think of more questions I'll post them. I think that covers my main concerns for now. Thanks in advance for any and all help/information!
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