Ed Rooney

Call the credit card company and file a dispute for the greens fees. Tell Amex or Mastercard or whoever that you are disputing because of the pace of play and the dact that you had to walk off. When they call the course to discuss the why they are taking money back, THAT will get their attention.

I really think it depends on the player. In my case, I switched to MP33's shortly shelter I broke 90 for the first time. I was practicing a lot, playing at least twice a week and had pretty good club head speed. Once I got the blades, I started improving rapidly. Still, over the years, I was such a club ho that I kept trying more forgiving sets, then watching as my game tanked. I would switch back to blades and get mu game back pretty quickly. Anything with a big sole and offset was like poison to me. That made me skeptical, and I decided that forgiving irons were a myth. The only benefits I could possibly see were in getting long irons in the air. Dispersion was still terrible in the short irons. A ten-handicapper playing blades isn't going to go buy a set of Ping G-20's and shoot par, or even 7-over. He might pick up a stroke, but real gains will be made by simply playing smarter. Don't try to hit the par-5 green in two and then make an 8. Do punch the ball out of the woods and back into play rather than trying to hit the 5-iron on to the green through a small gap in the trees. Do take 10 minutes and chip before he round, rather than bash a small bucket with the driver. I think the forged cavities or a progressive set are the best compromises. But I just don't think forgiveness in irons is as important as in the driver or putter.