Second Chance

I can't disagree with your feedback...and your experience in this field. I just think that once people under how the swing path and impact angles affect ball flight it becomes an issue of feel. Some feel it in their hands, others in their legs/arms, etc.

Yes and yes... I taped my mirror for my wedges ( I have issues with my stance getting too wide) and my putter. Wife hates a bunch of clubs in the house... It's a full length mirror that is elevated on my bathroom door. My wife was sweet enough to tape when I held the club appropriately...at least to Hogan/Foley standards. I've found that doing 10-25 reps a night has helped me go unconscious during my setup in a round. I'm so focused on the target, and everything else is on auto pilot. I used athletic tape because it didn't leave a bunch of residue on the mirror, the wife was thankful. I taped my foot positions, shoulder positions, hand positions, and head position. I also taped impact positions for my hands and hips. Only face on, not down the line. One thing that motivated me to do it was when learned that steve striker did it through the winter. Good luck!

I'm actually really satisfied with my swing... it's not perfect, but then again that's what makes golf different and such a challenge. I truly believe it had a lot to do with my shoe grip. Over the winter I spent hours working with a golf specific trainer, TPI certified. I went from 106mph swing speed to 115+mph on good days. However, sometimes I find that the extra power is very difficult to control in wet weather or when my spikes get clogged. I was mostly looking for stance/posture tips that might help me work through playing in wetter conditions...thanks for the feedback on swing videos, but I have 2 pros that I work with and we are all happy with my swing at the moment. Thanks, J

Does anyone have issues when it's raining/wet out of your ball going left? I really had to slow my swing WAY down today in wet weather or everything went left. I kept cleaning my spikes, but it didn't seem to solve the problem... I normally play a cut, but today it was just left...no cut. I've been hitting 7-10 FIR and 9-13 GIR lately, but today I couldn't even hit the broad side of a barn. I just never felt solid over the ball...or connected to the ground. Anyone have any tips to overcome this in wet weather? Thanks, J

I've incorporated a range ritual that helps me avoid this issue, hope you can gain something from what works for me. When I am at the range I hit one=three shots utilizing a drill (step drill for weight shift as an example), the next shot I attempt to feel the same thing in my golf swing looking for the right trajectory. Once I get that feeling I move on to the next shot. Then I begin hitting shots with a video (V1 app on my phone) to make sure what I'm doing is actually what I'm feeling...if that doesn't work I rinse/repeat steps one & two. Once I see the video and know it is what I want... I revert to feel only, and ball flight of course. Once I feel like I can feel it consistently, I pick a target and go through my pre-shot routine...still holding onto that swing thought/feeling. After about the third to fifth swing... I take a video. If all is still on track, I begin transitioning into "unconscious" swings. I pick a target and just swing. If the ball flight is on... I know I executed properly. I then hit about 5-10 balls utilizing the "unconscious" swinging. At the end of the drill/feeling session, I take one last video swinging freely with no thought.... if all is in order I go home. If it isn't, I go get another bucket...typical good days take 2-3 buckets. NOTE: I only work 1-2 swing thoughts per range session...and I never allow myself to think on the golf course. Too bad I really suck at it. :)

You can check out the trackman data anytime...just visit thier website. It's been proven that the way we understand a fade/draw has changed. Your discussion of spin is very accurate, but I have experimented with the feel of both and know for a fact that your hands play a far more critical role that either of us discussed. Either way, we are saying very similar things...and I doubt arguing over semantics is worth it at this point. HOWEVER, I recently did some research on club manufacturing specs. Over the past 4 years...clubs have become more upright and turned down. Take a look at the rocketbladz specs and my case is made. Although an upright club promotes a shot starting left, it also forces your hands to become more upright at impact if you plan to hit it straight...there are only two ways to accomplish this, and they both lead to swing planes that resemble a "traditional" draw/hook. No other need to argue...the specs speak for themselves. I've had to flatten every club I've bought this year to 2005 "standard" lie angles (which by the way took a lot of searching to find). They were right off the rack, Mizuno MP-59's... explain that?

See the shot, find my intermediate target. Pause, breath...see the shot landing close to the pin. Sometimes I take a practice swing...but it's only to get the muscles ready to hit. I line up, look at my target, return my eyes to the ball...see the target in my mind. I look back at the ball...find a dimple, look at the target...back to the dimple, feel a solid impact in my hands, back to the target waggle, back to the dimple, SWING!!!

If you want to go under (coming from a former +2) you don't absolutely need a rangefinder. However, to do it faster...you will! What TourSpoon outlined above is course management...which leads to improved confidence. A rangefinder will only speed up that process, which actually gives you more time to COMMIT to your shot. It dropped my handicap from a 4 to a 2 almost immediately... I am starting to go under par on 9 holes, but can't string together a full 18 yet. I do believe that the rangefinder (now that I trust it) has really expedited that level of play!

Thanks man! I have the diamana x60 shaft XXXX/5000...which retails for "WAY TOO MUCH"... and I would hate to cut it, screw up the swing weight and have to deal with the aftermath of wasted money. I'm in communication with my club fitter, but he seems to think I'm crazy. Funny how sensitive clubmaker's are...regardless of the overwhelming data to support this argument. Either way, once I get the right amount of choke up-- I'll probably go the same route you did. My current project is bending my irons flatter and flatter...I'm going to get rid of the left side of the golf course if it kills me! :)

Thanks! Yeah, I want to go to a 44"-44.5 driver. I've been experimenting with choking up a half inch and see no loss of distance, but tons of feel and a lot more accuracy. It's an obvious improvement, but I'm worried that cutting the shaft won't be the fix. I think I'm just going to continue anthony kimming it... :)

Fair enough... and I obviously still feel like there are big differences around the green, especially putting--but that is only going against my case so I'll suck it UP! ONE BALL... :-)

Ok... alot of guys here seem a bit confused. First, we need to identify how to hit a fade/slice and a draw/hook, based on actual trackman/radar/video data. All this is reverse for lefties... FADE: Club path is across the ball from right to left. Imagine the drill the tiger was exaggerating, pulling the club left. The club face at impact is also pointed slightly left of target (hence an open stance promotes this. Fades are MORE CONSISTENT because they utilize the big muscles and remove your hands from the equation. All you have to do is hold your hands through impact until gravity naturally takes over, and spin your hips through ahead of the hands. However, make sure that right foot is under control or you'll get stuck and hit the wretched double cross.... DRAW: The club path is inside to out, imagine an ellipse vs. an arc where the club goes right of target. This imparts side spin to the ball making it go right to left. The club face is pointed just right of target at impact. Draws are LESS CONSISTENT because they require excellent timing when releasing the club, since your hips are pulling in the exact opposite direction that you want the club to go...your hands have to be almost perfect. This is why hooks happen more often than slices... So, now that we have that down--hitting a draw is simple! If you ball is going right and not drawing back, you are simply not releasing the club right of the line you are starting it on. In other words, you have to FEEL like you are exaggerating throwing your hands well right, while allowing your hips to completely clear. Finally, most players hit draws nowadays because club manufacturers are compensating for 99% of amatuer golfers slices. I would venture to say that most clubs you will find in neutral positions today are a solid 1 to 2 degrees upright (promoting a draw)... GOOD LUCK!

Has anyone actually cut their driver/3W shafts down? If so, what length did you go with and why? Where there any issues you encountered doing it...?

Thanks for all your thoughts... I still find this rule silly, but very clear. I agree that it COULD be driven by manufacturers, but I am a bit of a consipiracy therorist... Just to clarify, I've taken all the tour level balls out this year and played rounds with them, taking very detailed notes. The only area where they are completely seperate is in the wind...where callaway fails horribly. Otherwise they are all pretty equal...so I will continue to say this rule is silly if not stupid for those reasons. Either way, my opinion means nothing...just thought I'd give it one last rant.

I'm not talking about playing a distance ball and a tour ball. I'm talking about playing a different brand of tour ball... TM Lethal or Pro V or Callaway Hex or Nike 20XI-S or Srixon Star-XV or Bridgestone BB330 Why does that matter?