Ken1222

Hello all - USGA rule 8-2a grants a player permission to place a mark or aid to indicate the line of play (e.g., placing clubs on the ground to align yourself for the shot) prior to playing the stroke. However, the item(s) being used to indicate the line of play must be removed before the stroke is actually played. Basically, a player may place (other than on the green) golf clubs at his feet to align his s tance for the str oke , so long as he removes those clubs before actually hitting the ball. My questions are: 1. May I make a footprint on the fairway or tee box in front of my ball (2 ft or so) to help me align my shot towards the green? 2. May I drop a leaf or grass stems on the fairway or tee box in front of my ball (2 ft or so) to help me align my shot towards the green? If you answer, could you please refer me to a rule or prior precedent. My golf buddies and I had a spirited conversation about this subject today. Thanks!

For your reading entertainment below is a email I just sent to Golfsmith customer service (in the past I have spent basically all my money in Golfsmith and The Golf Warehouse, and have always been satisfied). ------------------------------- I am writing to detail the nightmare I have experienced in the last 2 weeks with Golfsmith. 19 March - Since the shafts were too short, I returned my 675XC irons from order #xxxxxxxx to the local Golfsmith store in East Brunswick, NJ. They were mailed back to Texas that day, and told me it would take 4 business days to arrive. 25 March - Golfsmith customer service told me they have not processed the return since they were deluged with packages from the demo return promotion. 26 March - Golfsmith customer service told me they have not processed the return since they were deluged with packages from the demo return promotion. 27 March - Golfsmith customer service told me they have not processed the return since they were deluged with packages from the demo return promotion. 28 March - Golfsmith customer service told me they have not processed the return since they were deluged with packages from the demo return promotion. 01 April - Golfsmith customer service told me the clubs were received on the 24th, sent to production, fixed, and mailed back to me. When I asked what they meant by "fixed" he said I'd have to ask production. I was transferred to production and the lady told me she had no idea what they did to my clubs but she would check (I WILL NOT ACCEPT EXTENSIONS, I WANTED NEW SHAFTS) and I should call back on 02 April. 02 April - I called back and customer service told me that there is no one in production today or tomorrow, since they are helping out the shipping department due to the deluge of packages from the demo return promotion and I should try back on 04 April. Again, they could not tell me what was done to my clubs, only that they were shipped back to me. GOLFSMITH CUSTOMER SERVICE IS A MESS AS FAR AS I AM CONCERNED. OBVIOUSLY THE PRODUCTION GROUP DOESNT COMMUNICATE WITH CUSTOMER SERVICE, WHO DOESNT COMMUNICATE WITH RETURNS. I AM TEMPTED TO CANCEL THE WHOLE ORDER AND GET A FULL REFUND AS SOON AS I RECEIVE THE CLUBS. I'LL JUST DIRECT ORDER FROM CALLAWAY.

thanks Ken

Thanks. I will request nothing less than $100 credit, otherwise I send them back and they try again. Golfsmith is very good in that regard.

I just took delivery on my new Snake Eyes 675XC irons with Aerotech i95 shafts from Golfsmith. Problem is the irons are 1/4" too short. GS will order new set for me or extend the irons 1/4". My question is if I let them do the extension, does it compromise the performance of the shaft/club at all? My 2nd issue is that the brand-new iron heads all have very small "nicks" (about 1/8") in the topline and on the toe of the sole. In addition, they also have a dimple (about the size of a pinhead) in the heel. Am I being too picky by complining? Is this normal with brand new iron heads? Thanks Ken

I have been fitted and need 1 inch over and a 63 degree 6 iron (for sake of reference say 2 dgrees up). My two questions are: 1. Does that translate across the board, i.e. should my wedges also be 2 degrees up, which in most cases would be a 66 degree lie angle? 2. A Cleveland phone rep told me that by adding 1 inch in length to clubs, I am effectively adding 2 degrees up. Is this true? Doe that mean if I added 1 inch + 2 degrees I am now looking at a 4 degree up club? Thanks

Thanks Hytrew, very informative. Actually, I was liking the longer shaft due to my back (less hunched over). Your advice to try different shaft lengths is good, I will do that.

I have determined thru several measurements that my club length requirement is "one inch over." Assuming the standard 5 iron is 37.5" in steel and 38" graphite, does that mean that my steel 5 iron would be 38.5" and graphite 39"? My basic question is whether the graphite should only be "1/2 inch over" since it is already .5" longer than steel or should the full one inch increase should be applied to the graphite shafts. Thanks Ken B NJ hacker

thanks guys

Just picked up the GS catalog, and am considering their SR-460 driver (HiBore XL clone) as well as Snake Eyes hybrids and GS D2 irons (X-20 clones). These are all assembled with name brand shafts and are much cheaper cost than their counterparts from Cleveland, Callaway, etc. My question is: Will a 27 handicapper such as myself notice the diffrerence between Golfsmith and Callaway? I am taking lessons from the Golftec pro in the Golfsmith store, and will soon do a fitting session with him. Just seeking some opinions on the Golfsmith custom heads and workmanship. Thanks

Thanks for the responses, gents.

Great article---thanks

It cost me $475 and even though thats a lot for a fitting, I felt satisfied. Very professional, very thorough. They will answer ALL of your questions no matter what. Got fitted for driver, irons, putter and balls. My only gripe was that their ball data base was incomplete (no Top Flite, no DT Solo, no Pinnacle, no Wilson). My comment was how can you properly fit me for a ball when you dont even have the total listing. I was able to take whatever clubs I wanted for 2 days, and went back Monday with more questions which they courteously answered. My only question now is whether to spend $3000 for a complete set of pured, freq matched clubs?

Greetings all - I just returned from Arizona, having spent an afternoon at HotStix golf for a complete fitting. They are very professional, friendly, and knowledgeable. I want to dump my heavy steel Tour Edge irons for some lighter graphites. The HotStix analysis concluded: 1. Cleveland HiBore XL driver, fairway woods. I hit this the best and the spin, launch angle, etc were the best of all I tried. 2. Mizuno MX-900 irons. This was a tough decision betw MX-23, Callaway Fusion Wide Sole and Callaway X-20. Any thoughts? HotStix gave me all the clubs I wanted to demo over the weekend and I returned them yesterday. My dilemma is that they suggest I go for Aerotech shafts (graphite/steel fusion) in which they would frequency match and pure each shaft. Same thing with the woods except those would be Fujikura shafts. The cost of the frequency matching and puring will be about $1500 extra on top of the costs of the clubs. I love the idea of this but for someone like me (52.5 years old, good shape, 27 handicap, drives about 230-254 yds total carry @ 91-95 mph, hit 7 iron about 140 yards @ 65-75 mph) IS IT REALLY WORTH IT? WILL I SEE A DIFFERENCE? I HAVE READ THAT PURING INCREASES THE LIKELIHOOD OF HITTING THE SWWET SPOT BY 35%. Thanks in advance for the opinions

Thanks. I think I like the wide soles. My only concern is exactly what you said---I buy them (not cheap) and iron out my swing, and then what, trade up for "game-improvement" irons (in my case may be X-20s or R7s for example). Why not get get "game improvemen" (X-20) now instead of "max game improvement" (wide sole). Guess I will ponder that one for awhile.

I hit pretty straight (now that I went from interlocking to overlap + trying to control tempo). My issues are consistency and control. I tried the Adams A2, but I dont feel confident looking at the smallish head. Plus they felt clanky. Is there a chance that I will "outgrow" the wide soles and that they will limit my improvement? BTW, if you look under the "reviews" area on this site, there is a nice review of the wide sole. One of the members responding to the review claims he went from 18 hdcp to 12 hdcp in 2 months becasue the wide soles are so great.

Greetings - I am 52, play 1-3x per week, and have a 25 handicap, and hoping to get better this summer. Currently using Tour Edge HP3 uniflex steel, and I am ready to switch to graphite shafts. Have hit the Aldila NV 85, which I felt comfortable with. I like the Callaway X-20s, Fusions, and Fusion Wide Soles. Does anyone have any opinions on the performance of these three models? I know the Wide Soles are considered "max game improvement" but have read reviews on the web from players with 12 handicaps using them. I phoned Callaway and they will make them with the NV shafts. Thanks

I have been fitted and measured, and all agree that I require 1 inch over on my iron lengths. I have been playing steel, and now am considering graphite. Since graphite is usually 1/2 inch longer than steel on a given set, does that mean I would be 1/2 inch over for the graphite, or would I still be 1 inch over? Also, should I apply the extra length requirement to a 3-4 hybrid I am consdiering? Thanks

One other question---I have been measured and play 1" over. Graphite shafts are normally 1/2 inch longer than Steel. Does that mean I should get graphite 1/2" over? thanks

I am 51 years old, 27 handicapper, 94 mph driver speed, 78 mph 6 iron speed. Currently playing Tour Edge steel irons, uni-flex. I am considering going to Tour Edge QL graphite (or Mizuno or Callaway). Should I go to stiff flex or regular? I am worried regular may be too whippy. Is a stiff graphite equal to regular steel flex-wise? Thanks

I am 51.5 years old, 6'4" 215 lbs, in decent shape and a consistent 26handicapper, who hits drives about 250-260 yards (total carry) with 95 mph swing speed / 7 iron about 140 yards with 65-75 mph swing. With my driver (Ping G5, R flex, Aldila NV shaft), 75% of the time I have the dreaded slice. With my 3-wood (Ping G5, R flex, 15 degrees, stock ping shaft) I hit straight down the middle, almost all the time, tho not as far. Is the extra loft what makes the 3-wood go so straight? Does this indicate that I could benefit from a 12 degree driver loft? I demoed a 12 degree loft and seemed to be hitting the drives way too high. Thanks

I am 51, 6'4" 215 lbs, 25 handicap. Hit drives about 260 (when I hit it perfect) with 95 mph swing speed (Ping G5, stock shaft, regular flex, 10.5 degrees). I tend to hit "fade" drives. Six iron is about 150 yards with 75-80 mph swing speed. I have gone to two Ping Demo Days and tried Aldila, Graffaloy, Ping shafts. Ping guys gave me stiff shafts with offset head, and they all felt & looked good. But thats a driving range, so who knows? My question is: What is the difference with all the Ping G5 shafts? Ping guys said Graffaloy hits with more spin, Aldila is lower trajectory. I just dont know if I should switch from Reg to Stiff flex. What should be my considerations? Thanks!

Three words: Tour Edge Bazooka

Thanks everyone! By the way...Shigeki...I had a couple of snowmen PLUS the aching feet!