peiserma

I have played Cape Fear National several times and it has always been in great shape. Challenging course, lots of natural areas where you are not allowed to retrieve your ball and quite a few large gators. Tomorrow I'll post a picture of one I encountered - I had to abandon that ball. River's Edge is a beautiful course. Lots of very picturesque views over the marshes. I played the course last year in a tournament, have not had the chance to go back since then. Mostly because Cape Fear National is much closer to home.

I have the 54 degree and 58 degree cavity-back version. I can get a lot of spin when struck correctly. A guy I golf with on occasion has a set and also likes how well the 588 can spin a ball. What I can't tell you is how it compares to another brand.

Thanks for the welcome everyone! The city course is being renovated to its original Donald Ross design. The plan was to close 1/2 of it for phase one, then close all of it for the second phase of restoration. Project was expected to be complete this October. Beau Rivage is one of the nicer courses in the area, though I have not played it recently. I may have to rectify that and let you know what kind of shape it is in. I can also recommend Cape Fear National off US-17 towards Leland. It opened 2010 (just a few years ago) and it was in great shape last week. It's about a 20-25 minute drive from downtown. Its a bit on the challenging side for higher-handicap golfers like myself. I regularly play Magnolia Greens on a work-related golf-league. Randy, yeah great place to live, but surely Pensacola has its advantages, too. I really like the Gulf side of Florida. PS - Dave, curious whereabouts in NE Ohio? I left that area 8 years ago to move here. I lived between Cleveland and Lorain. Its a small world I guess.

Distance-wise, marginally longer than my current club (Callaway Diablo), but i did not measure. The Diablo has a slightly closed face, the GT3 does not. So all initial shots went right. Have to learn this club before I can make a valid comparison. Also have not adjusted the swing weight yet, and I am not sure I need to. Despite being 1.5" shorter than the Diablo, swinging it does not feel wierd. It feels faster, but that is probably because i was swinging with my arms too much. The sound on impact is a dead thud, while the Callaway makes a little "clink"

Thanks Lihu. That helped. You got me thinking about shims, I used some tape on the 0.335 shaft as a shim. This allowed me to determine that the ID of the hosel was 0.345. Since i doubt that anyone would manufacture this size ID on purpose, I assumed that I simply failed to remove all the old epoxy. I went back and re-sanded the ID. Then the 0.35 shaft fit perfectly. I finished assembly over the weekend and I took it to the range on Monday. I'm happy to report the club head did not fall off

Hello Everyone, Just wanted to briefly introduce myself. I live in Wilmington, NC. That is on the Atlantic Coast, just about on the NC/SC border. I started golf late in life, almost 40. Sadly, that means I have no hope of ever achieving internet driving distances ... but I`m good with that. My avatar is a gravedigger. I chose it because the first 2 years I played, my divots were 4 inches before the ball and nearly as deep! This week I managed 100 (I did take two mulligans) so while I am not likely to achieve scratch, I am actively working on improving my game and feel like I am making some modest progress.

I was removing graphite from all the way down into the bore, so yes. I believe the original shaft was installed all the way down. Who sells the shims you mentioned? I've seen brass shims for 0.335 to 0.35, but i don't think that's what you had in mind.

Hi everyone, I've been reading the forums for a while, and finally decided to join. This is my first post on TST. I have wanted to try swapping shafts or building a club for a while. It seemed like it would be fun. So the other day, I found a broken driver that someone had stuffed in a trashcan on the course. That's a free driver head to me, so i figured this is the sign I've been waiting for. I cleaned out most of the broken shaft, measured the ID of the hosel and ordered a 0.350 shaft based on the measurement.I also ordered the sanding mandrel that golfworks sells to clean out the remaining fiberglass at the very bottom of the hosel. Everything's looking pretty easy until I dry-fit the shaft, and discovered that the shaft won't go in all the way. Its maybe a half-inch away from bottoming out. So I called up golfworks to order a new 0.335 shaft and ferrules. They issued me an RMA on the 0.35 shaft. I planned on returning the old shaft in the box the new shaft came. But when I dry-fitted the 0.335 shaft, its way too loose (in my inexperienced opinion, of course). By way too loose, i mean it wiggles like a loose tooth. More actually. I can definitely move the shaft off-center in relation to the hosel. My calipers can't extend all the way to the bottom of the hosel, so I can;t easily measure the hosel ID. I could use some help figuring out the next steps. First, I had assumed that the shaft would be fairly snug to make the shaft relatively easy to align. The fact that the shaft is tapered would provide the necessary room for the epoxy. Are these assumptions correct? How much play/clearance should there be? Second, how would you guys recommend I proceed? Sand the 0.35 shaft down a little? The difference between 0.35 and 0.335 is only 0.015. Since the 0.335 fits so sloppy, it can't require that much material to be removed. How much can a graphite shaft be sanded? Or would it be better to get some glass beads and use the 0.335 shaft? Any help would be greatly appreciated. If it helps, the head is an Adams GT3. The shaft is an Aldila NVS. I'm not worried about the perfect shaft/driver combo, I really just wanted to do this. Thanks.