RickCarpenter

I miss the sound of a wood wood.

The deal is: a shaft was broken in the midst of reshafting. The question is: was the shaft authentic and worth what the owner thinks, or was it counterfeit and worth far less as is what GS claims. Get worked up all you want, lback14, you are not contributing to any solution. Maybe y^u ought to l**k into the GS p_licies regarding c!ub work before p+pping &ff; and a$$igning resp@nsibility. I don't know them, I've never dealt with them. Sounds like proper protocols were not followed by anyone, starting with authenticating the shaft. I think you are shafted, cemeb4dk, perhaps by the online seller, perhaps by yourself, and/or perhaps by GS. Regardless of who bears fault and what value the shaft is, given the events you've told, looks like you are shafted. And I'm sorry to hear that.

Sounds like the wrong morals, or complete lack thereof...

I am going to buy one or two hybrids after I get my irons reshafted to regular flex steel. I'll dump my 3W, keep my graphite reg flex 5W, and go with the hybrid(s). Knowing than no flex standards exist, how do I choose the hybrid graphite shaft flex to best 'match' my new iron shafts?

Yeah, he did, he's on the phone with his momma now. Cool...

Texas Tech just beat #4 Oklahoma 34-27, whoohoo! My son might have been one of the Raider fans who stormed the field.

I have v-groove Eye 2s (1983, original zz-lite stiff shafts) that were bought used but in very good shape. Do your own research on stainless steel, and then choose which products you want to use and which to avoid. Every once in a while (rarely!) to clean them, I use new steel wool and that waxy club cleaner as a first step, but you have to be careful and not leave any remnants of the steel wool on the clubs. After every round I just use plain water, however if they need better cleaning (and especially if I use that waxy stuff) I use orange clean or simple green but immediately follow with dw soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Then I hit them with wd40 and wipe that off thoroughly. It may be illegal to leave wd40 on, but I think pretty sure its OK to use if I wipe it off. I did this all when I first got them and they shined up nicely, but like I said they were in good shape to begin with. They look good after cleaning, ss has self-healing qualities which helps a lot. I don't use any topcoats of any kind, ss doesn't like that. Even with some minor dingeyness in the cavities, they don't look 24 years old.

I have v-groove Eye 2s (1983, original zz-lite stiff shafts) that were bought used but in very good shape. Do your own research on stainless steel, and then choose which products you want to use and which to avoid. Every once in a while (rarely!) to clean them, I use new steel wool and that waxy club cleaner as a first step, but you have to be careful and not leave any remnants of the steel wool on the clubs. After every round I just use plain water, however if they need better cleaning I use orange clean or simple green but immediately follow with dw soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Then I hit them with wd40 and wipe that off thoroughly. It may be illegal to leave wd40 on, but I think pretty sure its OK to use if I wipe it off. I did this all when I first got them, but like I said they were in good shape to begin with. They look good after cleaning, ss has self-healing qualities which helps a lot. I don't use any topcoats of any kind, ss doesn't like that. Even with some minor dingeyness in the cavities, they don't look 24 years old.

I have a set of original v-groove black dot Eye 2s, zz-lite shafts, c-9 swing weight, built on 05/31/83. All this courtesy of registering my set with Ping and then inquiring about them. Had 'em regripped and they play nicely, though I'm looking for a Ping hybrid/g2 hl combo to retire the longer irons from play. So what about cleaning stains/etc from them. The cavities are somewhat dingy, and the some of the paint in the cavities has what looks like rust spots. Rick