
Hacker-G
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Everything posted by Hacker-G
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Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the Fujikura Blur 60 (found on the R11 Ti Fairway Wood) and 70 (found on the regular R11 Fairway Wood)? I was told by an Ebay merchant that the 60 stands for 60g whereas the 70 is a 70g shaft. However, according to the Taylormade website, they're virtually identical weighted shafts! On the TM website: The Blur 60 (stiff) : Tip: 0.35 Butt Diameter: 0.600 Shaft weight: 60g Torque: 3.8 The Blur 70 (stiff) : Tip: 0.35 Butt Diameter: 0.600 Shaft weight: 59g Torque: 3.4 The only difference numbers wise is that the Blur 60 has more torque (greater flex?). Am I missing something? With this small difference in torque, would your average Joe be able to tell the difference between the two?
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Hitting fairway wood and 3H beyond 220yds
Hacker-G replied to Sai-Jin's topic in Instruction and Playing Tips
Strange that you hit your 3H further than your 3W!? -
Thanks again. If I do have more of a R300 swing, would playing with the S300s actually not hurt my progress? I understand that playing too stiff can lessen distance (I read this a lot, but never quite read about HOW MUCH distance is lost), but I dont care about losing a few yards if my shots are more accurate.
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Thanks TourSpoon, that is useful information! I understand what you are saying with the lofts, and occasionally I can get the 9 iron (40*) out to 150, but that would be only if I caught it very clean (say 1/3 of the time), so I suspect I can get there with practice and lessons and a more consistent swing. The R300 sounds good to me, as in I dont have to play my socks off every single swing to hit the S300s, but I wonder what effect the R300 SL shafts will have on the trajectory. The clubs, as you pointed out, are quite strongly lofted and I tend to get a high trajectory. From my reading, the SL shafts are lighter in weight allowing faster swing speeds which could translate into higher ball flight (although the DG are supposed to be low ball flight). My goal in golf is to get to single digit HC. I play many different ball-sports competitively and I don't see golf being any different.
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3 lowish end stock steel shafts? Since when are TT Dynamic Golds and Rifles considered low end? And where in my message did I bring up any comparison to graphite shafts? 1. I tried a search for folks using X-20s with those 3 shafts with my distance numbers and surprisingly came up with nothing.... perhaps my question is personal and not old to me? Also, perhaps not everything can be found by search, which I have spent hours online doing and only yielded half-useful information. 2. I mentioned in my post that I did go to a local fitter and he said it would be impossible to fit me since I dont have a consistent swing yet. Hence my reason for asking experience peoples opinions, since I have no experience of my own to draw from. Isn't that the whole point of forums, to get peoples opinions?
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29 views and not a comment? Is this too basic a question to be asking, or is this forum just not beginner-friendly?
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Any comments/recommendations/suggestions?!! CPO is having a sale through tomorrow, so would like to decide today preferably.
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Hi guys, I'm a newcomer to golf and originally purchased the Callaway Diablo Edge iron set used through Callaway PreOwned. Took them to the range a couple of times and hit the ball pretty well, but just couldn't get over the ridiculously fat shovel-like soles and the fat topline, which put me off since I felt like i was swinging a shovel. I sent them back to CPO and am looking to pick up another set. After trying them out at the local store, I've set my mind on the X-20s, which are still game-improvement irons, but have thinner topline and slimmer sole. At CPO, they have the X-20s with 3 different shafts on special at the moment: TT DG S300 Royal Precision Rifle 6.0 TT DG R300 SL They all retail for roughly the same price at CPO (~$220), but not quite sure which shafts to get. I have not gotten fitted, since the local fitter said it would be a waste of my time and money trying to get fitted without having a consistent swing. SO I'm stuck guess based on my yardages. With the Edge irons I was hitting: 150 yards: 8 iron 185 yards: 5 iron 220 yards: 3 hybrid (TM Superfast 2.0 Stiff) Trajectory on all the irons was high, not sure if that was the club or my swing type. I could stand to lower it a little. On most the websites, these numbers seem to put me at the border between regular and stiff flex, so I would be somewhere between the S300 and the R300 SL. I believe from my research that the Rifle 6.0 would be way too much. What would folks recommend?
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I've seen plenty of reviews on the different iron shafts out there, but cant find a thread where it's clear to me what the different is between the Royal Precision Rifle 6.0 is compared to the Royal Precision Project X 6.0 is. How do they play differently from one another?
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You can find really good quality clubs at excellent prices at Callaway PreOwned. They're used clubs, but in fantastic shape, and the wesbite runs specials all the time. Actually, they're currently running a 20-30% discount on all their X-series irons and woods. I recently bought a used set of Diablo Edges for $200. Brand new they retail for around $400. Quite the deal!
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I was at the driving range the other days and got a huge blister on my right hand (I'm a righty, so the hand without the glove). The blister is on the middle finger bottom joint just above the palm. I have absolutely no idea why I would get blister on this hand, and in this position of my grip (i do an interlocking grip where the left index finger fits inbetween the pinkie and ring finger of the right hand). Is this a sign of a weak grip, or gripping too tightly?
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Any suggestions at all?
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I'm new to golf as a serious hobby/pastime, and this is the first time I've tried out some of my new clubs. So I spent a couple of hours at the driving range yesterday and notice 2 things that I would like help with: 1) my grip . When I got home, I had a huge blister on my right hand (I'm a righty, so the hand without the glove) -- on the middle, finger bottom joint just above the palm. Not quite sure why I would get blister on this hand, and in this position of my grip (i do an interlocking grip where the left index finger fits inbetween the pinkie and ring finger of the right hand). Anybody have ideas how I got this blister? Does this suggest a weak grip, or a too thin grip thickness (my hand length from wrist to top of middle finger is ~8")? 2) my clubs . Whereas I was getting a fair amount of inconsitency with my irons (all of them), I found I was nailing my 3H straight and long reproducibly. What I don't know is whether this is natural, or whether this is due to the difference in a) the length of the club, or b) the stiffness of the club. My irons are Diablo Edges (uniflex steel), and my 3H is a TM Superfast Burner 2.0 (stiff). At the range, I was hitting my 5i to 185 yards, my 8i to 150yards and my 3H out to 215 yards. That's pretty much all I have in terms of distance and indication of swing speed. Since the 3H felt infinitely better and I had significantly more control of it, I wonder whether this suggests I should be playing with a stiffer and/or longer shaft on the clubs? I felt the length of the 3H was more comfortable for me, with the clubs (standard length and lie) feeling 1/2 inch short or so. Felt like I had to bend a little more than I would like, so wonder if I could use a slightly longer shaft? I have been to a fitter to get myself fit, but the person there said that it would be impossible to fit me until I had a consistent swing. SO, I've not been able to get fitted. FYI, I'm 6'1" with a wrist height of 35". Any suggestions? I do have a 15 day return policy on the clubs at Callaway PreOwned, so I wonder whether I should return the clubs and maybe get another set that is stiffer shaft and 1/2" longer?
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How conscious are you of you ball position?
Hacker-G replied to upah's topic in Instruction and Playing Tips
Interesting. I've always read that the ball moves forward in your stance as the clubs get longer. This diagram suggests the ball stays in the same place, just widen your stance? Also, is opening your stance (ie. bringing the right foot up) a "traditional/conventional" method as your clubs get shorter -
Migrating from the range to the course?
Hacker-G replied to Hacker-G's topic in Instruction and Playing Tips
Yup, UGA golf course. Red tees: 73.2/136 (6825 yards) Silver: 71.4/125 (6444 yards) White: 69.4/120 (5997 yards) Black: 65.7/113 (5186) So, how do you decide which tees to go off of? Everything I have read says you should play the tees that allow you to hit the par 3 greens in 1 shot, and the par4 greens in two shots. Based on distances (using my driving range distances), I would be fine on the reds. Should I start on the blacks since that represents the "average" difficulty (113 slope), or play the whites or silvers and work my way up? -
How conscious are you of you ball position?
Hacker-G replied to upah's topic in Instruction and Playing Tips
I'm slow...how on earth do you read/interpret that figure? -
Migrating from the range to the course?
Hacker-G replied to Hacker-G's topic in Instruction and Playing Tips
The joys of being a student at a university owned golf course. A big bucket of balls is $10. A round of 9 is also $10 if I buy 10 rounds at once (normally it would be $16) So my goal was a late round of 9 holes. Sun is still up at 8pm so was thinking of going at 6pm and playing as late as I can. The DOWN side to this, is that the course is a challenging one. In fact, it has been upgraded over the recent years to be a harder course. The main reason for this is that we have an annual PGA nationwide tour event here (Stadion Classic). So, the course is running at a course rating of 73.2 and a slope of 136 on the red tees (total yards = 6800). So, from what I understand, this is a difficult course to play. Suspect it would be a baptism of fire .... with a lot of lost golf balls. That's why I've bought recycled balls :) Otherwise, no par-3 courses in the area, only other courses....but these dont come with the student discount...so would be double the price. -
Hi all, I'd like to introduce myself! Name's Garry and I've just started playing golf. A little history, I'm new to golf, but not new to ball sports. I've played ball sports all my life (soccer, squash, cricket, tennis etc) and have good coordination when it comes to ball sports. I've recently decided to get into golf, and bought myself some used clubs. My dad used to be a decent golfer in his time (single digit handicap), and taught me about the golf swing many many moons ago (lets say 10 years ago). Was at the driving range the other day and noticed, to my suprise, that I remembered most of what he told me...my swing wasn't too bad! Was making good connection on ~60% of the balls and was getting good distance and accuracy. The rest were good with length, but tended to push them a bit. But for my first time out, I was well pleased with myself. I guess this all just leads to my question: at what point does one actually migrate from the range to the course. I was considering instead of putting an hour or 2 in at the range, to try a round of 9 holes at he local course. With student discount, a round of 9 (walking) almost equals a big bucket of balls, so to me it seems the value would be hitting the course. I'd prefer to go around 6pm when I could possible have a round solo. So, at what point should one move from the range to the course. Is there some sort of goal skill level or accomplishment that marks the "you're ready now" point? Absolutely silly question, I know...but just excited and want to make sure I'd doing the "right" thing and not rushing. Thanks all. Love the website!!