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PastPerforance

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  1. There are two areas where over rotating becomes an issue. As you alluded to, by over rotating your back swing, you actually change where in the aspect ratio your lever (club) is because the timing has a delay mapped in now, usually leading to some sort of hitch to gain the time needed to get back to the ball. The second area negatively affected is, that by over rotating, you are most likely no longer on a good solid swing plane, which coupled to that delayed position creates a need to release early, stealing distance through club head speed bleeding away. If you think more on the terms of your swing's width is seen as a sort of reach back motion, and not so much behind you as sort of to your right, along your shoulder plane. Add width to your swing path, which adds a more manageable angle of attack. Build width, and gain accuracy. Gain control over launch angles.
  2. A lot of players will aim specifically for that bunker, and play from there. If you know how to play from the sand pretty well. it is a strategy that may help you score your best on the hole.
  3. Play it where it lies. Even if you tear up the green, you are allowed to hit a pitch, flop, or full shot for that matter. from the green's surface. Just repair the damage when done. The damage is therefore a result of the design,and as such, the damage is to be expected from time to time.
  4. The sixeenth at the Stadium Course at PGA West is somewhat like that. On the right is OB about 15 feet from the green's edge, on the left a trap that is over 20 feet deep greenside. Get in that trap, and you can easily go OB if you can hit the shot out of the trapat a lees than perfect launch angle. I myself have in fact. Most hit back down the fairway and approach again. That course is used for qualification rounds for the PGA Tour Q school.
  5. Poser..... If you stop your video at frame 00:14, I want to point out a couple things for you. First of all the position your are entering at this point is a critical position known as the delivery position The more consistent you are at reaching it properly, the more consistent you will be as a player. But you are not quite where you need to be. First of all. If you were to draw a line down your spine towards the ground at address, you would find that the ball is slightly in front (towards your target) of your zipper. The idea is to have your right knee moved toward that imaginary line when you reach the delivery position. You should also have that right elbow out front of you (at least as far as your front pocket), and as far as you can get it towards that line as well. The closer you can get to that imaginary line, the more club head speed you will generate. That positions is is very important, and almost every pro you ever watch, reaches that delivery position. For players like Bubba Watson, and the longer hitters, their right elbow ( of left if they are left handed) moves almost to their zipper. The reason is that if you can get that elbow by that zipper, you will have held your "ells" very deep into your swing. Here are two videos for you to watch. the first shows the delivery position, so you can see it and understand where you want to get to. The second is about what you benefit from if you can get that shaft to align with your lead arm at impact. Golf is about your physiology, coupled to the engineering built into the club. They work together. Part is about physics. The holding of the "ells" creates club head speed because of the rule of the lever (our arms are type 3 levers). That is simple physics.And the clubs use physics too. Those clubs you swing were actually engineered with the ideal swing as its basic starting point. They create a club to do a couple things, but the reality is that you have to swing it properly to garner what it was designed to do. At setup, our hands at address are centered in our bodies. But at impact, we are no longer static, but are moving. We are turning rapidly, generating a great deal of energy, the club is flexing, and torquing, and the shaft is actually supposed to align with our leading shoulder at impact. That alignment, coupled to our body tilt, changes the loft of the club, making it stronger than at setup. At address, both wrist have an angle, and the club is resting on its bounce ( the flange behind the club face). But at impact, the lead wrist has lost that angle, and your right wrist should exhibit more angle. What this does is it stands the club face slightly more erect, meaning the leading edge has rotated downward slightly, and the loft has been lowered. That lowering does a couple of things. Most importantly, it allows the club to cut a divot without the bounce of the club interfering. The divot is thus cut, and not gouged out of the ground. The only way this occurs is when the shaft aligns with that lead arm. If you can take a perfect divot, about the size of a dollar bill, and the sides are clean too, then you stood the club properly.This position is what gives the player the proper loft that was intended in its design. It also is how you can get very consistent yardages too. When we move off of this, we are hiting finesse shots, and not standard shots at all. Your body has limits of course. How your spine rotates is very important to understand. Not all vertebrae rotate. and of those that do, the sections are different and some can rotate more than others. Knowing this, and staying within the limits is how you can insure you don't hurt yourself. Most people don't know this but the part of your spine that rotates is only in the upper spine, near your neck. Your neck vertebrae rotate the most, then below that they rotate a bit less. And the bottom isn't meant to rotate at all. That is why it is important to bend at the hips. Your legs piston during the swing, and that movement is what gives you the sensation that your lower spine is turning, but it isn't because it can't. You have a pretty solid swing, However, it can get better. You lean a bit too much towards your target during your back swing. And you don't get that right elbow over your front pocket at the delivery position. You haven't kicked that right knee towards the center of your stance either. Watch the videos and compare where you are against either of them. Stop Phil's swing at 38 seconds for a minute, and look at his left elbow, and how far in front of his body it is. .At 38 seconds in , his elbow is over that front pocket, and that knee is on line with that elbow. That is pure power. I am not too sure why a 1.4 capper would come here to adjust his swing. But I guess you know what you're doing.
  6. Ok I know a few things you may need to consider. Most players over swing. And by that I mean in two distinct ways. Not only do they swing way too hard, but most have an over extended takeaway. If you want distance, you need width in your swing. That comes from behind to out front. When you get your hands too far wrapped around your body, you are effectively getting above the swing plane. This is actually known as a two-plane swing position. If you have enough patience to allow your hands to drop back onto plane, no problem. If not you are going to get stuck. From a stuck position, your body is in the way of your elbows moving the clubhead towards the target. You have to do two things then, either push away from your body, or cut the ball. Both slough off clubhead speed. Finding out if this is your issue is easy. Just stand with the sun behind you and swing. Look where your hands are when you come to a complete stop at the back of your backswing.Your hands should be behind your original stance, and not over your head. If they are up high, learn to"drop" into the slot prior to rotating forward with your upperbody. The release in golf is a natural movement that happens for two reasons. First is that unlike during our set-up, we are rotating our upperbody to generate force and clubhead speed. Secondly, if your hands are positioned correctly, the two wrist work in unisom, and the release is just a full extention THROUGH the ball.Don;t think roll, think extend. The two together insure you do in fact roll though and up during your followthrough. Stop thinking so much over the ball. If you hit it fat, try to keep doing that. You learn the feel what causes that fat shot (try getting the club to align with the lead arm at impact). A fat shot is needed from time to time. The same is true for thin shots too. During play in wet conditions, you want to hit a bit thin. When you need to kill speed quickly hitting a ball a little fat may help. If you hit thin, try to keep doing that. Once you have a feeling for what you are doing wrong, make adjustments that alter the feeling. Try to play by feel. Stop trying to be technical when over the ball. Be technical in your pre-shot routine, but over the bal quit thinking if you possibly can. Relax, swing at about 75-80%, and extend through to the finish. Don't rock back in your swing. It is a turn, not a sway. Plus that adds a timing element to the swing that almost no one can become expert at performing on any consistent basis. At 75-80% it is easy to actually see the clubface power through the ball's position. If you are extending fully, and that shaft aligns with the leading arm, the shaft will be leaning slightly forward at impact, This exact position is what the club was engineered to be in at impact. They design clubs with a technical position in mind, not thousands of different swing styles. These positions actually sets the proper launch angle (loft coupled with your spine angles) of the club in hand. That proper positioning brings the leading edge down into position (not lying on the bounce of the club) and it cuts a divot instead of gouging out chunks of grass. Your divot should be about the size of a dollar bill. And the edges should be clean if the leading edge is correct at impact. Your divot can tell you a lot about where your hands were at impact. The mental side of golf is a lot harder to perfect Your problem may be that. If it is, it will take a lot of work to lose. You want to try to quite your mind during the swing. It forces your subconcious to execute the shot, and it is very good at doing just that. But to do so, you will have to learn a few tricks to shut your concious mind up. That you can read about in books. It is a long subjct, and better left for another day. Best of luck. Think width, 75-80% swings, and proper shaft location at impact. You will not hit fat, or thin if you can get that leading edge down. You will trap the ball, as you should be doing.
  7. The fact that any green would have a hazard in its design shouldn't be a problem. The idea when we hit onto the green, is to play to areas. Not just the whole green. The greens are just like the rest of the hole, meaning you can get out of position on a green just as you can get out of position on the fairway. On your approach shot, you should be doing a couple of things during your pre-shot routine. The first is establishing your target, but also your landing spot itself. They are not the same. You want to leave yourself the best possible angle to the hole. Usually that is from below the hole, with as straight of a putt as is managable. However, sometimes that position is intentionally made to be an out of position spot. Designers use a lot of things to trip you up if you are not paying attention. That is one more reason almost everyone could use a better pre-shot routine. While you are standing behind the ball checking all the variables, you know what conditions are dictating to you. Your choices are derived by those dictates. Perhaps a thin or fat lie is making your shot less than desireable, but you still have to hit that shot anyway. So you learn a few things, like what a partial swing does compared to a full swing. Things like how far the ball will release, given a cut or leaning the shaft more forward. They do different things to not only the flight, but to the run out as well.. Sometimes the best shot is NOT onto the green but to an opening, allowing the ball to roll-out into the desired position. So when you are looking at a green that has a trap, you know you don't want to have that trap between you and the hole. If the flag is located behind the trap, you had best error long. If it is in front of the trap, a short shot is your error spot. It isn't brasin surgery, but you do need to keep aware of conditions (and that trap location is just a condition) on every shot. That takes some mental toughness. But honing that pre-shot routine is what builds that mental focus. If you don't go down your entire checklist behind tha ball, your pre-shot routine feels off, just step back and start again. A trap within the borders of a green may be seldomed played and strange to many, but with some logic, and focus, it shouldn't cause much of an issue.
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