tpcollins

Thanks Adam, that’s probably what the pro shop said yesterday but I’m not wanting to do that. I just ordered some Tour Velvet Lite grips that hopefully will run as listed and 10+ grams lighter than what I have on it now. I’ll see what that does first and then move to a minimum amount of lead tape on the head. Thanks once again.

Thanks Adam, can you describe this hotmelt process a bit further? I assume that would go inside the head?

Thanks for the reply Saevel25. I think I might try a 43 gram Tour Velvet Lite grip (my regular grip is 53 grams) first and see what that 10 gram reduction does with the SW. Then maybe I can manipulate just one lead tape on the head without messing up the dynamics of it.

I’ve butt trimmed 1/2” off my 6-PW,& GW and have the swing weights back to where they were originally. I took my driver over to the pro shop Monday along with a vial of 12 grams of lead powder, wanting it put down the shaft and corked after 2 different 1/2” trims years apart. Got a call back and the club guy did not want to do that thinking it might compromise the 45 gram shaft. They suggest inserting some “liquid metal” in the head based on whether I slice, hook, or hit it straight. Well I can do all 3 within the same round so I just went back and picked it up. I would have preferred it be neutral and I’ll control whether I hook or slice. I did order some 3 gram each lead tape but I’m going to need 4 of them to get to my needed 12 grams. I know where to place them for various effects but 4 of them is going to seem like a lot. I would have thought at the least they would have suggested pulling the shaft and install those lead/tungston inserts in the bottom of the shaft but they never did. I need to come up with a Plan B. I love the driver and the Bassara shaft. I’ll contact Golfworks and see what they suggest and at the end of the year I’ll just bite the bullet and send it in to be done right (I hope).

I’m bummed. I pulled the grip off and noticed it felt heavy - a Golf Pride at 57.74 grams. I had one Cobra grip left and it weighed 5.3 grams less at 52.43. I taped 2 quarters (11.25 grams) on top of the driver right in front of the hosel and taped the lighter Cobra grip under the shaft and measured the balance point and new weight. I got a C8 which the calculator said was for a senior. So I rounded up to 180 grains on my powder scale (11.66 grams) and trimmed down a cork plug. I had a 2’ length of 3/16” rod (1/4” wouldn’t go to the bottom) and chased it with a 1/2” rod to seat it. I had a lot of trouble getting the 3/16” and when I did, the cork and powder fell out. I think the rod imbedded into the cork and pulled out with the rod. So I guess I’ll take it over to the Pro Shop in Ann Arbor and let them put the weight in the bottom of the shaft - I assume they have better tools than I do.

Thanks for the reply. I weighed a quarter and it’s about 5.7 grams, and I taped it to the top of the head near the shaft. It moved the balance point a fat 1/4” closer to the head and the SW calculator moved it from C2/C3 to a solid C7. If I replaced that quarter with lead powder and a cork, it would be further up the shaft and may only be a C6 or so. Since I’m more concerned with accuracy than distance, I plan to gnaw another 1/2” off for an overall length of 44”. I’ll tape 2 quarters on top of the head, use Scotch tape to hold the grip in place and see what the swing weight looks like. I might need a snitch more than 11.4 grams. I think somewhere around a C8-C9 would work best for me. We’ll see how it goes.

After thinking more about this, I think I did trim a 1/2” off long ago so I’ve lost 3 swing weight points right there. I was thinking of trimming down to an even 44” so that would drop 6 points total and need 12 grams of lead powder to get back to what it originally was. I’d probably need a 1/4” to get a trimmed down cork to the bottom of the shaft. I used to crush this driver about 10 years ago but I’m sure I’ve shrunk in height a bit more over the that time period.

I trimmed 1/2’ off my 6, 7, 8, & 9 irons and played with the powdered graphite in the bottom of the shaft and got them all at a D2 swing weight. 😀 I was having trouble with my driver last Sunday and I may have already trimmed a 1/2” off long ago as it’s at 44.5” now, but the swing weight is right between C2-C3. I was striping my 43 1/4” 3 wood and it’s swing weight measures about a B7/B8 if I’ve measured correctly. What should the swing weight be on metal woods? I have all Cobra LD Speed heads with Mitsubishi Bassara senior flex shafts that play more like regular flex. Thanks.

I have some lead powder and swing weight corks in transit as I’m going to cut my 7 iron 1/2” at the butt. This reduces the SW by 3 points and I’ll add the sufficient amount of powder to correct the SW back to D2. Going into .355” tapered shafts, should I sand down the overall height of the corks to reduce the top diameter or just take a 5/16” rod and push like crazy? Thanks.

Thanks Adam, after some thought, I’m going to trim the butt end 1/2" on just my 7 iron first. I’ve been choking down that much or more lately so I see how that works out. I just ordered some lead powder, corks, and grip tape from Golfworks. A 1/2” shorter shaft should drop it down 3 swing weights so I’ll need at least 6 grams of lead powder plus another 1.4 grams when I add a layer of 10” long build up tape to get back to D2 that I had before pulling the grip. If this works out I’ll do th 8 iron next.

I’m aware of Ping’s static testing - never understood if the height and wrist to floor measurement was based on bare foot or wearing shoes. Barefoot I’m on the edge of using 1/2” shorter shafts than standard. Now for my original question - butt trim 1/2” making the staffs stiffer or move the 4 iron shaft into the 5 iron head, etc., etc., and butt trim 1” for a net 1/2”?

Haven’t played for several years but was on a really tough course Sunday. After switching to my 3 wood, my drives were straight down the middle. Butmy irons suffered as I was chunking just about every one even with choking down on the grip. I have Mizuno MX20 TZOID irons regular flex with the 5 iron at a standard 38” from grip cap to leading edge. I know I’ve lost some height over the year - I used to be 5’10” 30 years ago but struggle to make 5’7” now. What’s the best way for a static test on what length irons I’d be best suited for? I measured the shaft tip just above the short ferrule and got .369” so I assume their the standard .370” tips. If I pull the grips and trim a certain amount off the butt, I assume that would stiffen the shaft. If I wanted to start with 1/2” shorter shafts, I’m wondering if I should pull for example the 4 iron shaft, put it in the 5 iron head, and cut an inch off for a net length of 37 1/2”? Any help would be appreciated.

I'm looking for a Cobra 10.5 Speed-LD driver with the Mitsubishi Bassara Lite flex shaft in standard length. Thanks.

They also said there would be additional shipping charges on top of the $175 plus whatever it cost me to hip to them initially. I might have been able to find a new one for that kind of money! Payng $75 seemed good enough for me.

PM sent

PM sent.

Got it back, I'm impressed for $75 . . .

I haven't gotten it back yet, here's a pic before I sent it to him. The last time it rained in my league, I was planning to dry it off when I got home. But I had too many beers with my cheeseburger basket in the clubhouse and I forgot all about it until a couple days later. I'll post an "after" picture when I get it back.

I found a guy that does the shiny black oxide finish and sent my Catalina to him last week - $75 for the finish and paint fill. He just emailed me and said he shipped it to me this morning, he's 100 miles from me here in Michigan so I should see it Monday. My fingers are crossed . . .

Scotty Cameron wants $175 plus tax plus shipping to restore my Catalina. Tom Slither wants $119 plus $19 shipping. I assume it doesn't get any cheaper than the Tom Slither route?

I sold them earlier this year but I can't remember if I ever found out or not - Old Timer's disease. I may have called Golfsmith but I don't remember if I got an answer or not - getting old is tough.

After seeing numerous post here about the Mizuno MX20 being some of the easiest irons to hit, and having own a set on Comp EZ years ago, I found a very nice used set on fleabay at a really good price - dang these clubs go long and straight! Best irons I've ever owned. Two weeks ago I was playing with my son-in-law who was using either Titleist or Pings and sliced his 5 iron into the wind on the last 175 yard par 3. I had already carved my 4 iron pin high. I handed him my 5 iron and he proceeded to knock it stiff and looked at the club in amazement! He said he'd like to have a set of these instead of doing the trade-in program with his current set. I found him a set on fleabay last weekend, they came this past Monday and he played with them in his league Wednesday. He said he'd have to adjust his distances since they go a bit longer than normal but they went straight every time! So there's two of us that are happy golfers with these past model MX20 irons . . .

Even though I'm doing more things right than I have in a long time, and the fact I'm hitting the both straighter and maybe a hair longer, I continue to have my divot start behind the ball instead of in front of it. While at the range today, I tried to move the ball a tad back from center but seemed to want to pull the ball left. So I played around with rotating back more on the backswing and a bigger effort on my hip rotation and that seemed to get the divot started more at the ball. But every once in awhile I'm plagued with that dang hit about a 6" behind the ball, takes half a yard of sod, and it goes 20 feet. It would make sense that I'm moving my core to the right and my swing is bottoming out behind the ball but I just can't catch myself doing that. If I could only solve that . . .

Thanks to mvmac and some tips from a few other golf instructors, I was able to shoot my best round in a long time last night in our league - a 39. I should had a 38 but I left the 53 wedge home in favor of the 5 wood and had to stand on a SW from 86 yards out - pulled it left and didn't get up and down. Now if I can always remember to: - strong grip - don't move head - upper arm contact same at address (mvmac's tee under armpit) - on backswing club head stays outside of hands until shaft is horizontal - hands stay centered in front of sternum during backswing and downswing (this helped immensely) The proof in the pudding will be how I do next week!

Well duh - I called the pro shop and talked with the guy that bends lies and lofts and he said he could do it. I was there in 20 minutes, bought another wedge at their "garage sale" while I was waiting, guy did an excellent job. The sole lies flat as a pancake at address now - I'm feeling it!