lawrosa

Do yourself a favor and do not spend a lot of money... Go with the di 100 line from wilson... Once you start hitting better and play with them a couple years and shoot in the 80.s consistently then you can look at more blade like... I could say go right to the ci 11s from wilson but the di 100's should be great and you will have more fun out there...

Hit the wilson CI 11's... Thin top line... Plays like a blade in feel and forginess of anything out there in cavuty back... Nice shafts matched perfect... And dont hurt the wallet... Wilsons are way underrated... I still hit my 99 set better then anything out there... Gave my callaways away.. x 14's.. No feel at all... The only thing is my wilsons are 17-4 stainless steel... Ping is the only one still using that... But none of the pings are smaller and narrow except the s 56... If you got the money go with them... On a budget the CI 11.s are the choice...

My PW on my 1999 wilsons is 49 degrees... Just that them to a shop... They will tell you.. Just bring the wedge and the 3... You can figure the rest as they were 4 degree different.. The old tour clubs played these lofts.. Dont understand the loft game to pretend you hit farther...LOL.. Take the CI 11 wilsons. The GW is 48 so that will play like my PW now... So will someone say WOW you hit a gGW that fair??? And I say now its really a PW....And if I get the 3 iron it would really be a 2 iron from back in the day... After the GW in most sets the SW is so far away to fill the void... Best buying a Volkey or callaway forged to fill that... Should only be for sand and flops anyway... Just my opinion though.... Take pics of these clubs... The old clubs from that era were actually pretty good and better then the huge cavitys they have today... Here is my old wilsons that play very well in forgivness but play like a blade... I gave my callaways away and went back to these.. Looking at the ci 11's but cant get past the blackness...

You have this from what your post says... U grroves and easy lite... Lighter swing weight, smaller head... Its all written in black and white.... 1984-1985 EZ Lite. A version of the "U Groove" featuring a lighter swingweight, the result of a slightly smaller head. The shaft featured an "EZ-Lite" band. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985.

Ping eye 2 came out in 1982... These were a super game improvment club and real easy to hit... If black dot and you are standard and they fit you I would play them... They have a MPF ( maltby playability factor of 724.. Means big sweet spot...) Here is the info you want I belive.. 1982-1984 Original. The first Eye2 iron. Made from 1982-1984. This patent pending design featured "V" grooves. 1984-1985 U Groove. The second Eye2 iron featuring "U" grooves. The result of the 1984 USGA ruling allowing square grooves. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985. US Patent D276644. Other patents pending. 1984-1985 EZ Lite. A version of the "U Groove" featuring a lighter swingweight, the result of a slightly smaller head. The shaft featured an "EZ-Lite" band. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985. 1985-1990 Square Groove Design is identical to the "U Groove" with the only change ocurring in the grooves. The change involed modifying the groove by creating a slight radius at the top of the groove. This new model is referred to as the "Square Groove". This change reduced the amount of surface area between the groove but did not change the distance between the inside edges of the grooves. Made from the fall of 1985 to the spring of 1990. US Patents D4512577 and D276644. 1986 Eye2 Beryllium Copper. Patent pending design identical to the stainless steel "Square Groove" but made from Beryllium Copper. 1987 Eye2 Beryllium Copper Patented design identical to the "Square Groove" design but made from Beryllium Copper. US Patents D4512577 and D276644. 1989-1990 Eye2+ No+ (Plus No Plus). New head design featuring a "scalloped" sole. The scalloped refered to the design process where metal was removed from the center of the sole and redistributed in the inside of the cavity near the toe. Additional design features included a more rediused sole, a modified bounce and grind, a slightly thinner topline, a slight increase in clubhead size, a little higher and more rounded toe, and slightly stronger lofts. The grooves were the same as the "Square Groove" model. Made from the fall of 1989 to the spring of 1990. 1990-present Eye2 Dot. Same design as the "Square Groove" model but with increased groove width as a result of the agrrement reached between Ping and the USGA regarding grooves. Distinguished by the raise dot or drill mark within eye in cavity. Made from spring 1990 to present. 1990-present Eye2+ Same design features as the "+ No +" model but with increased groove width. Available in stainless steel and copper. Made from spring of 1990 to present. Distinguished by the "+" in the cavity underneath the patent numbers. US Patents 4512577 and 4621813. Ping ceased production of the beryllium copper model in 1999 due to environmental regulations.

Get these for $249...Thats cheap... http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=23478076&ab;=TopNav_Golf_MensGolfClubs_IronSets&jsessionid;=gKwLSDLBghL9SvMzqkJCYp5bdLDdL9GbhqpshwRp0L71lQs2x3L5!-577594085&cp;=4413989.4414118

There are two j 40's.... One is a V cavity conventional with a MPF of 455... A players club really... And a straight cavity with a MPF of 682... Game improvment... Your r11's have a MPF of 508 conventional...Players club... ( not forged right?) But I dont believe the maltby thing to some extent... Dont know which one you have but there is no reason you should not be able to hit it coming from the r11's...( espeacially the straght cavity) Its my experience with old blades, blades, and forged clubs that the sweet spot is more towards the hosel... So when you set up you should be like cupping the ball if you know what I mean.... I hit the callaway x forged at a demo and that has a 373 MPF... I hit that better that any club out there... Even the ultr game improvments... Just my opinion...

Corrected s/n wilson # L371499201DC0 I guess I could call wilson... I think they have an online chat.... Maybe its a ladies club.... The L?????LOL....Probably why I play good with them....

I am removing all grips today off the Wilson pro staffs... ( Dicks sporting goods has free grip install day on Saturday) Ironically I found a s/n on the 3 iron.. Anyway to find info with this? I assume with these #'s this set is 1999.. L071499201??0 0.00" I think those two missing #'s are 00... Good think I wrote it down because using water and sponge the # came off... I am up to the 7 iron now with no other #'s so far... Again Brunswick head speed shafts... Anyone?

Oh and here is the 1996 staff mid size came out same time about my Wilson set.. Compare.... These RM's have a MPF of 387... ( Means hard to hit???? LOL) Its like a shovel... how can you not hit it... ha ha.... And here is the x31 tour from 2000... Mine were from around 1995 to 2000.. I can remember when I got them... These x 31's have a MPF of 320... So with my set of Wilson's and the 17-4 steel would we consider it a type of players clubs???? IDK... No body commented on the Brunswick head speed shafts .. I cant find any info on that...

I went to dicks sporting goods and hit the forged irons they had there... The callaway x forged, ping 56 and the ping anser.. All in all I hit the callaway the best... I dont understand the maltby factor. They list it as a 373 on his scale... Noway...I hit that good and consistant sweet spot...I think the mpf is a crok... Just my opinion... If you like the offset the newer forged clubs have little or no offset and might turn your fade into a full slice. I actually hit all the shots left of the center line on the shot screen...Could not tell if fade.. I think they started left and faded slighly but none ever crossed right of the line. The simulator look like this one. With the 6 iron x forged my launch angle was 18 degrees or so... A few 20's and such. I would say out of 40 shots..( And I was sweating towards the end) 30 were all good hits at the 160 yard mark give or take 5 yards... Bad hits for me were usually thin but still got 140 yards... The otheres were duffs hitting way before the ball... those few went 100 yards or so... A quick regrip/choke up a little fixed that fast... And what I was happy to see was the dispersion tracks when I was done had good grouping... Like this pic... Best I can find to explain what I mean... My problem is I dont have $1300 bucks for the x forged... They show as a conventional club in the MPF... The previous years show as a GI... So know what to find out there...IDK... Still researching.... Oh and here is the MPF chart on how easy a club it to hit... I think its a crock of crap IMO.. http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/2011MPFRatingsChart.pdf

I'm same as you... 33" and 5' 8'... Forget distance... I hit 7 130 too... But accurate... I have older club's high lofts like old days... Don't feed into the hype on distance with these 4 - pw sets with low lofts.... Those clubs are GI and will mess you up... Play a true feel and fly club and that's more important IMO... Sure my friends take an 8 at 150 yrd and I take a 5.... They all miss the grn and Im 5 ft from pin... Who laughs....? Me.... I play with 17 yr old wilson prostaffs/// Not long but accurate distance... GI will not get you that....

What set was that and how did you hit them??? What did you shoot and what were the issues??? Most its not their irons.. Driver gets you there... If not long then hybrid... Then close to the hole wedges... Some who struggle never use irons much in course of play IMO...

What did you play with the 5 times???? IMO look on craigs list but get older technology IMO.... The new stuff sucks unless your going forged...

Trevor if your shooting 80's I would get none of the clubs you suggest... Go with a better club like callaway x forged... wilson FG forged... Titlest CB...ect Basically dont get clubs with inserts and crap big cut cavity in the back.. Want to play better... Its the only way IMO......These for example...