lawrosa

Do yourself a favor and do not spend a lot of money... Go with the di 100 line from wilson... Once you start hitting better and play with them a couple years and shoot in the 80.s consistently then you can look at more blade like... I could say go right to the ci 11s from wilson but the di 100's should be great and you will have more fun out there...

Hit the wilson CI 11's... Thin top line... Plays like a blade in feel and forginess of anything out there in cavuty back... Nice shafts matched perfect... And dont hurt the wallet... Wilsons are way underrated... I still hit my 99 set better then anything out there... Gave my callaways away.. x 14's.. No feel at all... The only thing is my wilsons are 17-4 stainless steel... Ping is the only one still using that... But none of the pings are smaller and narrow except the s 56... If you got the money go with them... On a budget the CI 11.s are the choice...

My PW on my 1999 wilsons is 49 degrees... Just that them to a shop... They will tell you.. Just bring the wedge and the 3... You can figure the rest as they were 4 degree different.. The old tour clubs played these lofts.. Dont understand the loft game to pretend you hit farther...LOL.. Take the CI 11 wilsons. The GW is 48 so that will play like my PW now... So will someone say WOW you hit a gGW that fair??? And I say now its really a PW....And if I get the 3 iron it would really be a 2 iron from back in the day... After the GW in most sets the SW is so far away to fill the void... Best buying a Volkey or callaway forged to fill that... Should only be for sand and flops anyway... Just my opinion though.... Take pics of these clubs... The old clubs from that era were actually pretty good and better then the huge cavitys they have today... Here is my old wilsons that play very well in forgivness but play like a blade... I gave my callaways away and went back to these.. Looking at the ci 11's but cant get past the blackness...

You have this from what your post says... U grroves and easy lite... Lighter swing weight, smaller head... Its all written in black and white.... 1984-1985 EZ Lite. A version of the "U Groove" featuring a lighter swingweight, the result of a slightly smaller head. The shaft featured an "EZ-Lite" band. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985.

Ping eye 2 came out in 1982... These were a super game improvment club and real easy to hit... If black dot and you are standard and they fit you I would play them... They have a MPF ( maltby playability factor of 724.. Means big sweet spot...) Here is the info you want I belive.. 1982-1984 Original. The first Eye2 iron. Made from 1982-1984. This patent pending design featured "V" grooves. 1984-1985 U Groove. The second Eye2 iron featuring "U" grooves. The result of the 1984 USGA ruling allowing square grooves. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985. US Patent D276644. Other patents pending. 1984-1985 EZ Lite. A version of the "U Groove" featuring a lighter swingweight, the result of a slightly smaller head. The shaft featured an "EZ-Lite" band. Made from the middle of 1984 to the fall of 1985. 1985-1990 Square Groove Design is identical to the "U Groove" with the only change ocurring in the grooves. The change involed modifying the groove by creating a slight radius at the top of the groove. This new model is referred to as the "Square Groove". This change reduced the amount of surface area between the groove but did not change the distance between the inside edges of the grooves. Made from the fall of 1985 to the spring of 1990. US Patents D4512577 and D276644. 1986 Eye2 Beryllium Copper. Patent pending design identical to the stainless steel "Square Groove" but made from Beryllium Copper. 1987 Eye2 Beryllium Copper Patented design identical to the "Square Groove" design but made from Beryllium Copper. US Patents D4512577 and D276644. 1989-1990 Eye2+ No+ (Plus No Plus). New head design featuring a "scalloped" sole. The scalloped refered to the design process where metal was removed from the center of the sole and redistributed in the inside of the cavity near the toe. Additional design features included a more rediused sole, a modified bounce and grind, a slightly thinner topline, a slight increase in clubhead size, a little higher and more rounded toe, and slightly stronger lofts. The grooves were the same as the "Square Groove" model. Made from the fall of 1989 to the spring of 1990. 1990-present Eye2 Dot. Same design as the "Square Groove" model but with increased groove width as a result of the agrrement reached between Ping and the USGA regarding grooves. Distinguished by the raise dot or drill mark within eye in cavity. Made from spring 1990 to present. 1990-present Eye2+ Same design features as the "+ No +" model but with increased groove width. Available in stainless steel and copper. Made from spring of 1990 to present. Distinguished by the "+" in the cavity underneath the patent numbers. US Patents 4512577 and 4621813. Ping ceased production of the beryllium copper model in 1999 due to environmental regulations.

Get these for $249...Thats cheap... http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=23478076&ab;=TopNav_Golf_MensGolfClubs_IronSets&jsessionid;=gKwLSDLBghL9SvMzqkJCYp5bdLDdL9GbhqpshwRp0L71lQs2x3L5!-577594085&cp;=4413989.4414118

There are two j 40's.... One is a V cavity conventional with a MPF of 455... A players club really... And a straight cavity with a MPF of 682... Game improvment... Your r11's have a MPF of 508 conventional...Players club... ( not forged right?) But I dont believe the maltby thing to some extent... Dont know which one you have but there is no reason you should not be able to hit it coming from the r11's...( espeacially the straght cavity) Its my experience with old blades, blades, and forged clubs that the sweet spot is more towards the hosel... So when you set up you should be like cupping the ball if you know what I mean.... I hit the callaway x forged at a demo and that has a 373 MPF... I hit that better that any club out there... Even the ultr game improvments... Just my opinion...

Corrected s/n wilson # L371499201DC0 I guess I could call wilson... I think they have an online chat.... Maybe its a ladies club.... The L?????LOL....Probably why I play good with them....

I am removing all grips today off the Wilson pro staffs... ( Dicks sporting goods has free grip install day on Saturday) Ironically I found a s/n on the 3 iron.. Anyway to find info with this? I assume with these #'s this set is 1999.. L071499201??0 0.00" I think those two missing #'s are 00... Good think I wrote it down because using water and sponge the # came off... I am up to the 7 iron now with no other #'s so far... Again Brunswick head speed shafts... Anyone?

Oh and here is the 1996 staff mid size came out same time about my Wilson set.. Compare.... These RM's have a MPF of 387... ( Means hard to hit???? LOL) Its like a shovel... how can you not hit it... ha ha.... And here is the x31 tour from 2000... Mine were from around 1995 to 2000.. I can remember when I got them... These x 31's have a MPF of 320... So with my set of Wilson's and the 17-4 steel would we consider it a type of players clubs???? IDK... No body commented on the Brunswick head speed shafts .. I cant find any info on that...

I went to dicks sporting goods and hit the forged irons they had there... The callaway x forged, ping 56 and the ping anser.. All in all I hit the callaway the best... I dont understand the maltby factor. They list it as a 373 on his scale... Noway...I hit that good and consistant sweet spot...I think the mpf is a crok... Just my opinion... If you like the offset the newer forged clubs have little or no offset and might turn your fade into a full slice. I actually hit all the shots left of the center line on the shot screen...Could not tell if fade.. I think they started left and faded slighly but none ever crossed right of the line. The simulator look like this one. With the 6 iron x forged my launch angle was 18 degrees or so... A few 20's and such. I would say out of 40 shots..( And I was sweating towards the end) 30 were all good hits at the 160 yard mark give or take 5 yards... Bad hits for me were usually thin but still got 140 yards... The otheres were duffs hitting way before the ball... those few went 100 yards or so... A quick regrip/choke up a little fixed that fast... And what I was happy to see was the dispersion tracks when I was done had good grouping... Like this pic... Best I can find to explain what I mean... My problem is I dont have $1300 bucks for the x forged... They show as a conventional club in the MPF... The previous years show as a GI... So know what to find out there...IDK... Still researching.... Oh and here is the MPF chart on how easy a club it to hit... I think its a crock of crap IMO.. http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/2011MPFRatingsChart.pdf

I'm same as you... 33" and 5' 8'... Forget distance... I hit 7 130 too... But accurate... I have older club's high lofts like old days... Don't feed into the hype on distance with these 4 - pw sets with low lofts.... Those clubs are GI and will mess you up... Play a true feel and fly club and that's more important IMO... Sure my friends take an 8 at 150 yrd and I take a 5.... They all miss the grn and Im 5 ft from pin... Who laughs....? Me.... I play with 17 yr old wilson prostaffs/// Not long but accurate distance... GI will not get you that....

What set was that and how did you hit them??? What did you shoot and what were the issues??? Most its not their irons.. Driver gets you there... If not long then hybrid... Then close to the hole wedges... Some who struggle never use irons much in course of play IMO...

What did you play with the 5 times???? IMO look on craigs list but get older technology IMO.... The new stuff sucks unless your going forged...

Trevor if your shooting 80's I would get none of the clubs you suggest... Go with a better club like callaway x forged... wilson FG forged... Titlest CB...ect Basically dont get clubs with inserts and crap big cut cavity in the back.. Want to play better... Its the only way IMO......These for example...

If your a new golfer and you want to learn with the right clubs then buy those pings....If you start off with GO or super GI you will never know what it takes to learn to hit the sweet spot... Play with them then see how you do.. Post back.. Worst case you practice with the pings and maybe...I mean maybe... go into a game improvemet... IMO it you cant hit those pings its your stricking and not the club...Going to GI you will probably do the same thing that your doing with the pings... Learn with them and you will improve IMO...

What do you consider cheap??? You pay for the name... with the higher priced stuff... Im a wilson fan.. Played with hagens which were really wilsons and then staff midsized... Looking at forged now because thats as close to old technology as you can get.. Like callaway x forged or FG wilsons...

Just went to dicks and hit the 3 forged models they had... calloway x , ping 56 and anser forged... IOut of all I hit the callaway besy. Had the best soft feel IMO.. I hit it consistantly. Sweet spot on these clubs are more towards the heel from what I experienced.. This was my first time hitting forged... It took me 3 hits to find the sweet spot.. Once I found it it was great butter soft feel. You knew when it was right on... Dispersion was best also with the callaway... The visual was also better IMO then the other two... After I hit some of the game improvment like the X hots... I could tell you I had a harder time finding the sweet spot...Its more middle and low and thats not how I swing.. I know it sound odd and I should hit GI's beeter but I dont... Note: You need to know I have been playing 30 yrs and only had two sets of clubs... Walter hagen blade...1972 set and 1995 staff mid size wilsons.... I am looking to upgrade myself and after today with hitting the forged, this is what I am getting for christmas... Why go backwards.....???

Stay away from any callaway except the forged line... Just my opinion... Callaways have no feel and will not help your game IMO...Not a fan of any of the x series non forged

the wilsons probably have loads of offset... Your pulling them left right? Try the less offset x forged... Or try a larger grip... It will keep your hands from turning... Just my opinion....

Play them.... Try to stay away from all that game improvement crap out there in my opinion.....Keep your other set incase you dont like them, but I am sure you will... You will only get better....IMO

Geez these look similar in design shape wise.... I never hit forged... How hard could they be to hit compared to the wilsons??? Looks like the same type shape with the notch on the bottom, although my wilsons have a larger notch. I think this whole game improvement thing is hog wash and any cavity back is game improvement... I ican find older forged callaways like new 2009 set for $500. But I see there is a wilson forged... I will have to research older models as price is an issue.... But I need to hit these somewhere or somehow.... I actually like the wilson look better... Probably because I grew up in the hagen/wilson dyna era.....Maybe I need to get that out of my head.... Still reseaching... Anyone have any ideas please respond... Possibly I am being anal....LOL

IDK.. I see no real difference in the shape of the cavity back per club... They all look the same... For 17 years wear is minimal... I am just trying to understand the design and which way I should go from these... Apparently the callaway x 14's are not the direction... I assume this is perimeter weghting.... Again I am not a clob specialist.. I only had blades and these... I think I am looking for something without a face insert... These are cast???? IDK just says 17-4 ss on the hosel. I found this. It would seem these are professional? Were these irons made before wilson really went to crap? http://www.golfinstruction.com/features/pinemeadow-metal-test-870.htm 17-4 and 15-5 Stainless Steel are harder steels found in professional style iron and wood heads. It is less common in iron heads, but popular material for woods. While the harder material will decrease the soft feel found in 431, it makes up for it by creating better ball compression and essentially generating better distance. Here is better angles on the backs and faces...

Hello all. First post but I am lost... First off I have been playing golf for 30 + years... I never broke 80.. Best round was an 80... I play every Sunday. I have only had 3 sets of clubs in this 30 years of playing. My first set I learned on was a 1972-1974 Walter Hagen players set... I hit these reasonably well but I was a lot younger then.... I played with them for 15 years from 1980 to 1995... My grandfather bought me a set of Wilson's in 1995... I cant find any info on these clubs. My best round this year with them was a 84. Here is a pic of them. They are 17-4 SS with Brunswick head speed shafts... No rating I can find as the labels are worn off. I hit them good and always had a thin top line... Are these worth still playing. Even though they are 18 years old they have minimal wear as I believe because of the 17-4 SS that they are made of... Sweet spot is like butter. Mis hits resonate up the shaft. Its a hard hit but lots of feel... Here they are...showing 4 iron. I have 3 -PW Now since I was reading all the hype on new technology I went out and researched clubs... Not a lot of money since I am a stay at home dad at 47 years old...LOL So I researched callaway and found the older x 14's to be the most popular...Though they were game improvement but I think they are super gamers or ultras... Anyway IMO these new clubs suck. I got them in new condition for $180 out the door on used callaway site.. There is no feel to them.. Just a click and off it goes. Plus I cant control really. left, right, straight.. No consistency.. Plus I just cant get over the fat top line... No feel etc.. Shafts are constant weight uniflex... I think I am going to sell them... The thing is too what I found is the bounce may be way different then what the Wilson's have...This may be why I cant hit them... Will it take time to get used to them? Here is the top line...compared to wilsons Its just a big fat clunky club... So here is my thinking... I don't know what the Hagen's were made of but I assume I like the hard feel. 17-4 may be hard but I read better ball compression. So I am used to that with the Wilson's... I don't see many who make 17-4 SS but ping. Does Wilson still make 17-4? I think shafts are important. The uni flexes are not working IMO. I swing 90 mph or less. Also the wilsons are high lofts.. I only hit 5 iron 150 yards. But that 150 yards it right on every time...Plus they stop on a dime. The callaways could fly or roll 10 yars after it hits the green. I also need the offset and I think the Wilson's have that. I come outside in and have a normal fade. I have been doing it all my life... Can only draw the driver if needed but play the fade... Hey I know where its going...LOL I would like to upgrade but am having trouble finding something if you know what I mean.. Some tell me these old Wilson's are good sticks. Others laugh that I still play with them. But when I shoot an 84 to another guys 90 with $1000 forged crap I laugh all the way to the 19 th hole... So I am sorry this was long winded and if anyone can shed light on these Wilson's I will appreciate it... I was looking for some MPF on them but to no avail... I cant even find a used set of these anywhere on line. My grandfather is 97 years old now and all he remembers is he bought them from the commissary from fort Dix here in NJ...back in 1995 I think... Could be up to 2000 I cant remember... All I remember I retired the Hagen's for these. Oh since I switched clubs for the x 14's my game went to crap... shooting 96,96,96,97 the past 4 times out... Any help or suggestions????