mjgraniero

I've been playing the Titleist 909H, 21 degree, Diamana shaft this year and absolutely love it. The ball gets up quickly and levels off, no balooning. It has a nice feel at impact and cuts through the rough pretty well. My league partner has the TM Raylor which he loves. He hits it well from the rough and fairway. The only thing I noticed is that he has a draw to serious hook most of the time while he hits a slight fade with most of his other clubs.

Just a warning to everyone out there to buy from a reputable vendor. Our local golf shop had a guy come in after purchasing a brand new set of AP2's online for $499 only to find out the clubs were counterfeit. Under $500 seems "too good to be true" for a new set. Then again maybe I'm just not looking in the right places.

Mizuno T-Zoid Pros that I owned back in the '90s. My AP2's are as close as I've been able to get to the same feel without sacrificing some forgiveness. Unfortunately my game isn't what it used to be.

I know there's a lot of knowledge about bags on this forum so I'm asking for help/suggestions to replace my BagBoy Clip-Lok. What I dont like about the cliplok is the clubs aren't tiered from back to front, making it a nuisance to pull clubs that are near the back (when riding). The cart canopy/rain shield and head covers of other clubs always gets in the way. Here's what I'm looking for: Full length dividers, more than three sections Putter tube (no exterior clips) A set-up that will reduce bag chatter Stand bags considered but would prefer a cart bag. Thanks in advance for all recommendations.

I'll cast a vote for the Lamkin Torsion Control. Awesome tackiness and feel. The only issue I found is they wear faster because they are soft.

I've got six words for you: Tommy Armour Titanium Tommy Gun Driver Everything about this driver was just wrong!

Your other option is to get a different bag. Check out BagBoy bags that hace the clip-Lok feature. The clubs don't make contact with each other as much so you wouldn't need the iron covers. You could also try threading a towel or two among the oring heads.

Ryo- I can answer that for you. Go see a clubfitter! That's about all the input I can give after all our back and forth. Confusing as hell but I think it all depends on what point of view you're taking. Ultimately it sounds like you should add the inch to the shaft then get fitted for the lie. Most fitters can adjust the lie for you on the spot.

$300 for my Scotty Fastback (don't trust eBay enough to try buying from a non-authorized retailer), $140 for my Odyssey Marksman, $80 for my Odyssey Dual Force (1990's) and $40 for my Titleist Bullseye (wish I still had it)

I agree. I was calling the resulting lie to be too upright. Ryo was, I believe, stating the need for a flat lie. I think we both had the same idea in mind. I also agree with your later statement. I was approaching it from the point of view of an individual holding a longer club than needed.. Thanks for chiming in!

I think I know where we're getting our "lines crossed." You're right that throughout the set manufacturers set the lie flatter as the shaft gets longer. My point is that if you take a 6 iron and add length, the manufacturer won't adjust the lie to compensate, therefore the lie actually becomes upright. This would be the case throughout the set because the manufacturer won't adjust the lie based on the added length of the whole set. They use the same standard lie regardless. So if my 9 iron has 64 deg lie and I add four inches to the shaft, the toe will be pointing more up at address and the club is likely to hit heel first when I swing, thereby causing a draw/hook. If a fitter measures you on a standard length shaft and says you need 2 deg up then says you need a two inch longer shaft, that's incorrect. The lie should be measured once the proper club length is determined and the lie measured on a club of that length. When a longer club is used an upright lie may not be needed because the extra length may compensate.

Wish I had a website or more factual evidence but I believe I'm right. Flat and upright aren't the angle of the shaft if that's what you were thinking. Try this- Take a 12" dowell and attach it to the end of your club. Grip the club at the grip, then slide your hands off the grip and onto the dowell. The further the clubhead gets from you the higher the toe will be, hence, a more upright lie. You can also look at the club specs for the titleist AP2 (or any other irons for that matter) http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/AP2.asp?bhcp=1 You'll see the lie is flatter (lower in degrees) in the long irons than the short irons due to the length of the shafts.

Just curious but did he measure your lie angle after giving you a +1.5" longer club to swing? I know a lot of fitters don't do that and the upright lie that's measured only applies to the shorter club used during the fitting session. It would be nice to know some fitters are doing it the right way.

Have you tried the Scotty Squareback? It comes in lefty , unlike the fastback.

Interesting, he's 6'8" from the side mugshot but only 6'7" from the front. Does he get taller or shorter when he has his back to you? Side note: Per my Pro, for every 1/2 inch longer the club the lie goes up one degree. So, if I had standard lie clubs but added one inch, it would push the lie to 1 deg up. If he's at a 2 or 3 inch longer shaft he may not need the upright lie. Just a thought. Maybe some of the more experienced clubmakers/fitters can chime in on this.