glueguy

My wife wanted to start playing, and I was thrilled. I bought her a decent starting set and we ventured out last weekend. I was fully prepared to buy her some lessons with a real coach early on, but wanted to get her on the driving range when it was just the two of us for her first time. Very quickly I ran into a problem that I don't know how to address. I tried to show her that the shot is in the wrists and not lots of body rotation, arm muscling, etc. I stood over the ball and showed her to move the club straight back from the ball (so that she wouldn't lift up right away) and then start to hinge her wrists. When she tried this, standing in what I would call a typical posture (slightly bent, club at comfortable length) her, um, chest got in the way. We worked for a little while, and she migrated to a posture that had her leaning a lot, and her feet not positioned relative to the ball where I wish they were. This was what she needed to do to be able to let her arms move free. She was hitting the ball, but not far because she wasn't getting good wrist action. I'll leave that to a pro to figure out how to get her to do that. She said that next time she will wear a much more compressive sports bra, but I still think that there will be an issue relative to a guy's body. Any advice? Will the average male pro be able to work with this or should we look for a female or anything else specific?

Looking for opinions on Distance Master clubs. I want to get a set of clubs for my wife to start, and I want something that is nicely weighted and good quality, and hopefully at a decent price. I found a set of women's lefty DM clubs for sale used. I was looking for an older Callaway/Ping/etc but these came along pretty cheap.

Newb here, but maybe I'm missing something. If the $2-3 apiece labor is correct, then a set of seven clubs is $15-20 for labor plus the price of the grips. Why would I even bother doing it myself for $2-3? Is that an accurate estimate? What's the advantage to doing it at home?

I think that the shaft is still OK - just the head separated itself from the shaft.

This is my first real year of playing. I bought a used TaylorMade R7 3W (with TM ReAx 60 S shaft) from Golf Galaxy in June. Playing alone to do some thinking, hit off a tee and at point of impact I knew something was way wrong. Weight balance moved very quickly, hand speed picked up. I lost sight of the ball as the spinning club head about 10 yards out caught my attention. I knew that clubs consisted of multiple pieces, but have never thought about the assembly/construction. As a fairly competent DIY'er, can I fix this myself? Take it back to Golf Galaxy? Pro shop? Should I have inspected for this failure? If there are links, please let me know. I wasn't even sure what the proper search term should be.

Thank you!

As a new player, do I need to carry both a 3W and a 3I? When / how do I use one instead of the other? Whenever I have a long fairway shot, I grab the 3W. Thanks for being patient with a newbie.

Thanks all!

The club is markes with an "S". Is this because technology has marched on since the clubs were new and the designations have changed?

I agree with the $119 price, I was going to use the $60 to offset to bring the price that I have to pay down to "cheap." Figure a new wedge for $60 beats just using the gift certificate on a glove and some balls.... It looks like there is only one choice for bounce - a 56 / 14. Am I not understanding my options?

I am relatively new to the game (approx 6 rounds) and shoot 100-110. I have a set of Ping Zing 2 irons, including PW and SW (from Google I think that these are 47 and 52). Drivers are good (TM R7) and putter is good. I have a gift cert to Callaway worth about $60. I was thinking about using on a wedge. I've searched here and am still slightly confused. I believe that I should probably go with a 56 SW but wanted to get opinions on my set of conditions. Should I get a 48 or 52 to replace one of the current clubs? Would that be better? I would guess that going to 58 or 60 would leave too much spacing? Or should I stay with the two that I have and spend the Callaway money on something else?

Thanks - are 2g and 14g the original weight amounts? Is there any benefit to trying different amounts?

I bought a used Taylor Made R7 465. I'm guessing that the movable weights are more gimmicky than real, and I am aware that my mechanics are way more important. Since I am new to this club, I am trying to make sure that I am not chasing from the beginning. What were the original weight amounts and locations (2 positions here, I've got a 2g and 14g, can't remember their positions)?

A little bit of a net search leads to believe that they all have serial numbers, all the way back. I looked at the Zing2's again, and they are there, just very faint. I guess I expected it to stand out and didn't factor in the age wear.