brianc

I personally am a big supporter of the Stack and Tilt. I just started taking the game seriously this season and found myself to be a player with alot of potential but also one that was vastly inconsistent: I could regularly shoot 40 on the front and than card a 50 on the back. Every round I played I would sit there and rattle off 4, 5, or 6 pars in a row and follow them up with 5 double bogeys. As a result all of my scores were between 90-93. About a month ago I read up on the Stack and Tilt and decided to give it a shot. I played my first round using it a week ago and shot an 84. I had never broken 90 before that. Coincidence? Probably not. It yielded consistency for me and allowed me to play a full round striking the ball well for the vast majority of my shots. I don't think that it should be dismissed as a fad. If you are having trouble with consistency give it a serious look....it is an easy method to learn and it is a very simple swing to repeat. I also believe that if you are successful with what you do than don't fix what isn't broken. Point being that there isn't one way to hit a golf ball correctly.

Hey everyone. I'm looking for some tips (preferably from the better players amongst us) on how to keep myself calm and loose on the course from the first tee to the eighteenth green. I, along with my teaching pro, am convinced that my issues on the course are all mental. On the range and during the course of lessons I can't seem to hit a bad shot: Not a stretch to say that I can hit the ball consistently as well as any single digit player. But as soon as I step foot on a course I fall apart. It has become infuriating to me because with my swing i should be playing to probably no worse than a 10 hc and because of all my mental anxiety I can't even break 90......Why can't I swing the way I do every sing practice session on a friggin golf course!!!! ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks all.

Keep in mind that the Burners are a progressive set. The short irons have smaller heads and less offset and the offset and head size progressively get larger as you move up to the mid irons and increase again as you get up to the long irons. This makes them very diifferent from the tour burners....

Thanks for the replies everyone.....finally resolved this issue....back to playing a nice controlled fade.... 1. Moved ball forward to inside front heal 2. Turned right hand over more on grip Still playing an open stance and getting the ball flight I want again.....thanks guys.

[QUOTE=kleraudio;375841]Thanks a lot dub! I have not ruled out anything as of yet. Didnt even know they made 07 burner irons! I just wanna know the difference in Tour vs. regular... The Taylormade iron lines over the past few seasons look like this: 2007: R7 2008: Tour Burner 2009: 09 Burner There are also some variations such as the R7 cgb max and tour preferred versions as well....go to the taylormade website for the specs on all the lines. I have done a ton of research and will be buying the 09 Burners next season when the price drops.....I wouldn't worry about getting a "players iron". Get a nice forgiving set that will allow you to develop consistent ball striking at proper distances which will build confidence and a repeatable swing and ball trajectory....you can work the ball with almost any set if you learn how....for me I'll take dead straight every time.

The burners are in fact strong lofted clubs....45 PW....50 AW....the only wedge setup that makes sense is either 45 50 54 58 or 45 50 55 60..... Burner 3iron is 19*.....as is the hybrid I'm looking at.....I can already hit a 3Iron.....but prefer a hybrid..... 9.5 stiff might be spot on considering I now hit a 9.5 stiff 2008 Tour burner and hit it very well.....about 265-275.... might be an 18 Hc but am not a hack.....just a beginner....my scoring is getting better every time i play.... ......don't argue guys......be merry.....

I need some simple drills to help correct a slice I'm experiencing with my driver. This is a new problem I've had for about three weeks and it only is happening with the driver. SOME INFO TO KEEP IN MIND: I used to hook the ball badly and play a draw when I hit the ball well. Took some lessons and changed my swing to play a fade: Open stance with the ball back in my stance. This works really well for me with all my clubs. Was hitting a beautiful and controlled fade with my driver about 275....now I'm hitting it about 225 straight and it drifts 40-50 yards right....don't think I'm blocking because ball always starts down target line....think my swing path is too steep and outside to in. Anyon have some simple drills I can do without changing my setup....want to play the open stance with controlled fade.

This is a very simple and effective method to fix your alignment. Please ignore my handicap (18) when reading this. This is a tip from my brother who is a former teaching pro and a scratch player. Stand behind the ball before address. Pick out your desired target and run a line from that target to a spot about 6 inches in front of the ball. Then without taking your eyes off of that spot, address the ball and align your clubface to the spot on the ground....once your clubface is square to that spot it is square to your intended target.....simple and effective.....hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply....will certainly keep it all in mind. As far as the wedges are concerned....the PW is 45* and the AW is 50* so the 54* and 58* should give the setup a nice spacing of 5* 4* and 4*.

Thanks for the input....the equipment I end up with will all depend on what is best suited for me through a fitting....I want to try the R9 but realize that the 460 will probably be the better fit.....thanks for the info....I appreciate it.

Definitely going to be pricey....I'm actually going to wait 6-8 months....by that time all the 2010 lines will be coming out and the 2009 line prices will drop significantly....

Hahaha....I won't forget a putter....I promise. After alot of research I narrowed my choices down to what is listed because I want clubs that are forgiving and easy to hit straight and consistent....the fitting is definitely key....shaft type, flex and length (I'm 6' 1''). Seems like you think I might have the right idea.

Hey everyone. Looking for your feedback on the following. I'm a 29 y/o 18 handicapper. Now I started "playing" golf when I was 16 but never took it seriously. I would play once or twice a year and never paractice....I just didn't care for it all that much. That all changed this year....I have the golf bug and have it bad. I took a few lessons from my brother (former teaching pro) and got myself playing consistently around 90....not bad for my first real season from what I have been told. I have also done this playing with essentially a different set of clubs every round because I don't own my own yet. I feel very strongly that with the right equipment that is fitted to me and an entire season (next season) of lessons from my bro I can easily drop 8-10 strokes and play to an 8-10 HC. So in conjunction with the full season of lessons here is the EQ I'm going to get fitted for: R9 or R9 460, R9 3W, 2009 Taylormade 3 Hybrid, 2009 Burners (4-AW) and Vokey 54* and 58*....what are your thoughts?

That will probably work just fine....don't be afraid to seek some input from folks at the local golf shops....eespecially if you have access to a teaching pro....they won't stear you wrong....be sure to do some research on bounce with wedges as well....you can readd up on what bounce is online.....it is important to know when purchasing wedges.....

The 50* may be too close to the 47* being that they are only 3* apart....take a look at the 47, 52, 56, 60 setup. That would give you a nice consistent seperation of 5* 4* and 4* and will probably serve you better. This way you only have to buy one new club (the 52) instead of two (50 and 54). It's really going to come down to personal preference but you can't go wrong with 4-5* gaps.....3 is just too close.

Sorry....got cut off..... Find out your current pw loft and then increase in 4 to 5 degree increments for the remainder of your wedge setup from there. Hope this helps. Brian

Essentially you are currently carrying four wedges but in an improper setup....what you currently have is a pw, sw (56) and two lob wedges (58 and 60). Your best bet has already been sugested: Pick up a Gap Wedge (52) and ditch the 58. Another thing to be aware of is the loft of your PW. The degree gaps from your PW through LW should be 4 to 5 degree gaps to provide consistent distance between clubs. So, if your PW is 48* you can then go 52, 56 and 60 for even 4* gaps. Some iron lines are now going stronger. for example: I play 2009 Burner irons which have a 45* PW. So my wedge setup is 45 (pw), 50 (gw), 55 (sw) and 60 (lw) for even 5* gaps between all wedges. On average, two degrees equals about five yards so 4* gaps should give you about 10 yards between wedges where 5* gaps will give you about 12 to 15 yards between each: THIS IS APPROXIMATE AND VARIES SLIGHTLY FROM PLAYER TO PLAYER AND CLUB LINE TO CLUB LINE. Bottom line is to find out the loft of your current PW and configure your

I'm an unemployed rock musician working as a caddie....so much for that $100,000 education from Villanova and the four years of active duty service as a lieutenant in the Marine Corps.....the economy is awful......my experience and education mean nothing right now....though it probably doesn't help that I chose music as a career path....but until (more appropriately "if") it starts to pay the bills in the form of a recording contract I need a big boy job....

Def not the Burner driver....I play a 2008 Tour Burner 9.5 and can pull it off. It just takes some time to get used to it....it is essentially completely changing the way you swing at a golf ball. My suggestion would be to reach out to the pro at the local range or pro shop and take a few lessons from them on how to accomplish what it is you want to accomplish. The only reason I am able to pull this shot type off is because my brother (former assistant pro) spent several teaching sessions with me. Those guys (teaching professionals) can see what us amateurs cannot. Keep after it man....you'll get it.

Playing a fade is actually quite simple and it is a much easier to control and more consistent shot than a draw. 1. Play the ball back further in your stance than you normally would : For example: Instead of playing the ball even with the inside of your left heel with a driver(for righties), creep it back to split the difference between the inside of the left heel and your zipper. This rule applies to all of the clubs. Long irons would be played about center of stance, mid irons just right of the zipper and short irons (9I and wedges) way back splitting the difference between your zipper and inside of your right heal. 2. Open your stance : Do this by keeping your right foot in place and creeping your left foot back so the toes of your left foot are about even with a quarter of the way back on your right foot. 3. Use a high takeaway : This will not work with a flat swing plane. The take away needs to be parallel and high. This applies for all clubs: Wedges up through driver. Please let me know if this explanation is too confusing and I will try and clarify. I learned how to play this type of shot a few months ago from my brother who once upon a time was an assistant pro and a scratch golfer....I knocked about 10 strokes off my game and went from shooting in the 100s-110s to an 18 handicap in about two months (this is my first year really taking golf seriously). This setup may not work for everyone but it works for me. I literrally could not even hit a driver a few months ago and now am consistently about 275 off of the tee and always in play. Hope this helps.