danpark

any idea how much this costs?

i agree with batman. you should get fitted to find a shaft that's right for you. each clubmaker tends to have different characteristics for the shafts they make for certain clubs. therefore, regular flex for one club maker may be closer to a stiff flex for another club maker. just get on a launch monitor or try demoing some clubs at the range. see what feels best. don't quote me, but in general... flex: if it's too flexible, then it'll feel whippy & accuracy goes down (may have a tendency to slice). if it's too stiff, it won't feel responsive, and loss of distance may result. on avg, reg flex for ~80-95mph swing speed & stiff = 95-105mph. this is usually the most critical component. most people will warrant a regular flex.... unless they swing very quickly. i'm a tweener where i can get my swing to be 95-100mph... but i like to swing a bit slower and so i went to a regular flex. if you tend to swing slow, i'd recommend a regular flex. if it's too stiff, then you might start trying to compensate and that'll mess up your swing, rhythm and tempo and you'll tend to lose distance since you can't get the shaft to flex enough or properly. kickpoint: point at which shaft bends... higher the kickpoint (closer to the grip end), lower the trajectory/ball flight & vice versa. usually comes as high, mid or low. pick the one that you think that will help you acheive the ball flight you want (remember, think opposites. high kickpoint = low ball flight). also, the loft on the club makes a difference for ball flight. torque: how much a shaft will twist (feeling of the clubhead turning around the shaft). the lower the number, the lower the torque, and the less it'll twist. i had a 905r stiff flex with a ys-6 shaft... which is a low torque shaft... and i wasn't generating enough clubhead speed to get it to square at impact and so i kept pushing the ball. here's some articles: http://www.golf.com/golf/equipment/a...566804,00.html (overview) http://golf.about.com/cs/tipslessons/a/shaftflex.htm (stiff vs regular) http://www.purelygolf.com/E/Shaft.htm (a bit more technical) hope that helps. gluck

suggestions for the best way to ship irons? i've been looking to sell a set of irons and this would be my first time, so i was wondering if anyone had any tips or methods they found most successful (i.e. carriers, type of box, packaging methods, etc.). any advice would be great. thanks in advance. btw, in case anyone was wondering, they're mizuno mx25 (4-GW) w/ DG S300. i'll probably post in the marketplace once i figure out the best way to ship.

which works better? silicone spray or baby oil? and where can i buy either? i just own the oil cloth that comes with the putter. haven't reapplied anything or used anything else to clean the putter. wondering which would work best.

have the #2 model in the gunblue finish. if you have the charcoal mist finish, then it's much more resistant to rusting. from what i know, there shouldn't be a problem with putting the headcover back on. when you rub it down, the oil basically acts as a thin protective coating or layer that helps prevent it from rusting. i dont think oil dries up or evaporates (you want that thin coating on there) so no need to worry about drying it off or anything after you've applied the cloth. when they say to keep the putter dry, they mean don't let it get wet from water or rain or damp conditions. make sure you dry it off and then apply the oil cloth to the putter. you can (and should) put it back in the headcover as to further protect the club from nicks, dings, scratches & extra humidity, but make sure the headcover doesn't get wet. if so, you'll need to dry that out before you can use it. for during play (if it's too wet outside, i don't even take it out to the course, i just switch to a different putter)... either way, you should always make sure to dry it off if it gets wet and then have the oil cloth available to wipe down after use after every hole (better safe than sorry)... and then put it back in the headcover. hope that helps. anyone have a particular brand or type of oil they like to reapply on the oil cloths?

2006 circa model has gunblue finish (shiny) while the 2007 model is the charcoal mist. you can differentiate the two by the head as well. has yellow lettering on the sole for the 2006 while the 2007 CM finish has red lettering (matches the headcovers)

anyone have any tips for the best way to measure iron distances?

Thanks for all the awesome replies so far. They're very helpful. Keys taken away so far: Will practice the short game more: pitching, chips, putts -Will try to keep focus & try to get more up & downs in order to "salvage" hole. Usually tend to lose intensity/focus on remaining shots once I've hit an errant drive (as listed at bottom), which either ends up with having to play a safe approach or punching it out from the trees or carding an OB. -Hole more putts (esp within 5-6 feet). I tend to 2 putt everything, rarely do I hole a putt or get up and down unless I get it really close. -Learn better bunker technique. Sand = disaster zone. I can get it out, but I don't practice this much either, which explains why my shots are so errant. I usually have a knack for avoiding bunkers but when I do find my ball in there, my brain is definitely 'a-spinnin'. Strengthen course management skills - I like the "Par 5 18x" approach. I'll use that next time. Thanks Maverick! - Play Par 5s better. I have a tendency to, as Sonicblue said, to just grip and rip on my 2nd shot and try to get it as far as possible. Third shot deals with whatever is left over. Again, with my 2 putt average, that tends to run up the score. - Believing I can score low. So the biggest two tips regard short game practice & course management skills. I've noted below that I blame my game on my uncooperating driver. If anyone has any other tips, I greatly appreciate it Aside from needing to practice short game, current state of game: - Distance & iron play not a problem (Driver = 280 yds; 7 iron = 150 yds +/- 10yds/club) I'm definitely very confident with my irons. I'll hit an occasional errant shot, but I feel like iron play is the least of my worries. - Consistently push my drives . 80-90% = push. I just consistently bomb it to the right significantly, which has caused much anguish. Being stubborn, I spend the majority of my time trying to find the right driver swing even though I know my short game needs a lot of work. I've tried employing all kinds of swing tips but I can't seem to command as much control over my driver or my swing as when I hit my irons. I have no idea how I will hit it or where the ball will go. I just know that when I do what comes natural, it results in a push. I've been contemplating whether my shaft is too stiff or too low kick (YS-6+ S) or not right for me. Anyway, I started hitting duck hooks, which I corrected by clearing my hips faster. But, once I fixed that, now its back to the good ole push. So everytime, I go to the range, I keep telling myself that once I can get my driver to be somewhat consistent (or not consistently a push) then I'll focus on my short game because right now, standing on the teebox is not fun when I worry about hitting out of the rough, or punching out of the trees or hitting one OB

Advice on breaking 90? I've been playing for about 4 yrs and have yet to break 90. Been close. I'm pretty sure a lot of it has to do with my short game. But just wanted to see what advice you have and what's worked for you.

Seem to be having this problem as well. I'm just bombing stuff right into the trees. During play, I've just been compensating by always aiming for the left side. Then, started hitting these nasty duck hooks for the first time in the past month, which I had never done before. With my new push/hook combo, I was having to worry about going left AND right. Been trying to fix it on the range. Recently, got ride of the duck hooks but still fighting the push. As mentioned in someone's earlier post, when I also hit the ball, it feels really effortless & clean. It's annoying that it has to be a push. Does anyone think the shaft has anything to do with it? I play a 905r with Stiff YS-6+. Here's what I've tried: 1. Alignment Initially, I thought it was an alignment issue. But when I line up straight or slightly open, end up hitting a pull & sometimes fade (almost slice). 2. Stand closer to the ball Read that a push is probably swinging too much inside-out (as ppl have mentioned). So, tried standing closer to the ball, which has helped me swing more upright and less wanting to swing on a flatter plane. 3. Grip I've been varying between using a strong grip & neutral. I've been trying to stay neutral since I do that for everything else. But I'm still in the process of correcting my tendency to align myself to the right. So when I align myself to be straight or slightly open... I've been using a strong grip to compensate & not slice. 4. Swing plane Found I was thinking to swing too much around. I have a pretty upright swing for my irons. But I've been having to watch out for swinging too much outside-in now (which results in the fade/slice). Going to get my first lesson in years. Take advantage of the free 10-minute lesson for this month. I've been wanting to start lessons anyway. Hopefully that'll help me start to fix all the issues and help me have a consistent repeatable swing. Any comments appreciated. Thanks!

on average, ~275-280... now if i can only get it to go straight instead of pushing it right into the trees so often...

Major goal: Break 90 Reduce wayward tee shots - Reduce O.B.s (curr. avg 2-3) - Make drives more consistent. Seem to be fighting a push. Just recently turned into a nasty duck hook every so often. Hit a draw/pull every once in a while. Basically, distance not a problem but not sure which way the ball will go or end up. - Eliminate one side of the golf course Improve putting - Eliminate 3 putts (curr. avg 2-3) - Improve lag putting - Sink 3-4' footers Improve pitching/chipping - Increase GIR (curr. avg 1-2) - Increase getting up & downs (curr. avg 1-2) - Reduce missed pitches/chips (not hitting green) Improve concentration - Stay focused for 18 holes. Always seem to blow up on a couple holes. - Commit & execute on every shot. - Decrease double bogeys & eliminate anything higher Start taking lessons - Get instruction from a teacher - Keep better track of stats Improve fitness/endurance -START working out -Swim to get in shape

804s vs 775s anyone? I know that the 775s are an upgrade... but is it worth the money to get 775s over 804s?

can anyone tell me the differences between 804 and 775s? other than the 775s being an upgrade? is it worth the money to purchase 775s over 804s?

Hey everyone, My initial question is: Is there a big difference between the Titleist 804s vs 775s? I know that the 775s are an upgrade to the 804s... I was wondering if anyone knew if the 775s have become geared towards a slightly lower handicapper, or are harder to play than the 804s? I was thinking of getting the 804s because I've read and heard so many good thigns about the 775s but cant seem to afford the price tag at the moment. Is there a big difference? I know that 804s are definitely cheaper right now... ($450 brand new on tgw & dirt cheap on ebay). I'm also a highcapper (~25) who feels on the brink of a breakthrough (lowering HC to ~15). I know that I'll require practicing more, which I'm willing to start doing, yet I feel that I haven't been able to shoot lower because of my current set of clubs (hand me down Mizuno T-zoid Pro Forged). I like the feel of my Mizunos but I know I'm in need of an upgrade to newer clubs at least (the grooves are all worn out) and I think those are a bit above my skill level. Like I said, I'm willing to put in the practice to get better and I want clubs that have good feedback. Currently looking into Mizunos or Titleist but open to other club suggestions... Any feedback or comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks~