Sacman

When I'm hitting from a mat I work on feel. Whether you flush a ball from the mat or grass its still gonna be a flushed shot.

I have seen multiple people say hitting the ball higher on the club face would help reduce the spin on my drives. I got out to the range after work friday and made a conscious effort to hit it higher on the face. I felt like this caused me to make an even steeper downward strike. I need to see my numbers on a simulator but I think that my numbers have gone up. I am still hitting the high center of the club face so the strike is still good.

my guess is that the torques might be different in them. Although they should be fairly similar. The weights look to be the same. I would try to find out where the kick point on either is. That info could make the clubs totally different in flight path and trajectory.

I have been told that having a driver launch angle around 13 or 14 is optimal. While keeping spin under 3000. I recently adjusted my titleist d3 and got my stats to be 11 degrees launch angle and 3300 spin. I could still adjust it to give the club more loft. My question is should I continue to tweek my driver or continue to work on my swing to get the launch up?

I have had a problem with my ball spin for my driver being in the high 3000's. This has caused me to lose distance and some times hit the ball off line. Does anyone have any tips for reducing ball spin with the driver?

I'm struggling with the shanks. I tend to get to flat in my swing and my back shoulder likes to drag behind me. This makes it real tough for me to get the club head square. Does anyone have a drill to help me square up the club head better?

I did see a fitter and they had me stay with the standard lie. I am just curious what effect the lie angle could have on my shots. I really hit them straight just haven't quite been able to hit them as solid yet. I know that it will take me some time to adjust to the new clubs but I wasn't sure how the different specs on the new clubs would effect me.

I really like the idea of the RBZ 3 wood but i would try to work on your release on the driver. More consistent contact and lower trajectory tend to lead to a longer drives. Also try putting the ball farther forward in your stand and lower your back shoulder. I added 20 yards to my driver doing this.

Nike nds irons: NDS Irons #3 21° 59.5° 39'' Nike NDS Irons #4 24° 60.5° 38.50'' Nike NDS Irons #5 27° 61.5° 38'' Nike NDS Irons #6 31° 62.5° 37.50'' Nike NDS Irons #7 35° 63° 37'' Nike NDS Irons #8 39° 63.5° 36.50'' Nike NDS Irons #9 43° 64° 36'' Nike NDS Irons PW 47° 64.5° 35.75'' Nike NDS Irons SW 55° 65° 35.50'' Mizuno Mp-53 irons: Club LH Loft ° Lie ° Offset " Bounce ° Length " 3 Yes 21 59.5 0.142 1 38.75 4 Yes 24 60 0.134 1 38.25 5 Yes 27 60.5 0.134 2 37.75 6 Yes 30 61 0.13 2 37.25 7 Yes 34 61.5 0.126 3 36.75 8 Yes 38 62 0.126 3 36.25 9 Yes 42 62.5 0.114 4 35.75 PW Yes 46 63 0.102 5 35.5 I have had nike nds iron for the last 7 years and have gotten down to a 10 handicap with them but decided my game would improve with some new technology and the mizuno irons were the best fit for me. One this that I realized after I bought the clubs was the the lie angle of the two sets were different. What effect will I see in the two sets of clubs due to the lie angle? Should I have my new irons adjusted to the lie angles of my old irons? Thanks for the help

it looks good to me. although I am scared of buying clubs off ebay

check out the burner 2.0 irons those are pretty cheap now

I am not a fan of the project x shafts. I feel like I am hitting rocks with these shafts. It's like playing a blade. The DG shafts are so much more forgiving and the feel is like none other.

I just started playing the Aldila about 2 weeks ago and love it. The lower torque in it helps me a ton. I am so much more accurate now. Plus I gain about 5 miles an hour in swing speed with the lighter shaft. My opinion is get what you like best but for me the aldila is the one I hit best.

I would look into getting a shaft with a lower torque. I switched to the aldila 60 gram rip shaft and my driving is so much more consistent. I had a Nike Dymo 2 driver.

I am a big fan of the MP-53's. I don't hit the ball pure enough for me to play the 59's. Although the look and feel are great.

I recently hit the G20 and it felt pretty good. I have been trying to get the ball to the 13 degree launch angle without adding the extra spin. Something that helped me was getting the aldila rip shaft. It has less torque than most shafts and really has lengthened my drives. It also has made me way more accurate. If you like the G20 check out the titleist D3. I love mine.

I was playing the Nike Dymo 2 driver for 2 years and hit the ball way to high. it was giving me way to much loft. I also figured out that I was coming down on the ball with the driver like an iron shot. i switched to the titleist d3 with the aldila shaft about a week ago. I hit that driver so much lower and rarely slice it ever.

I think the rule is the flatter your swing is the sooner you have to open your hip to get the club square again.

I have a tendency to kick my right foot back when I try to rip a driver. This tends to make my shots go right. Does anyone have a tip for stopping this?

I am an 8 handicap and my next irons will be the MP-53. I have struggled with this decision myself. Then I hit the Project X and S300. I felt like I was hitting rocks with the Project X. While the S300 was like hitting a pure shot over and over again. It's just my opinion but project x shafts are overrated. You have to hit them absolutely pure every time to get a good shot. I know that's not going to happen so forgiveness is always welcome.

I actually had a hard time hitting the R11s. It just didn't feel that good in my hands and the RBZ was much better. I am still curious if the R11s with the aldila phenom 60 in it is the same as the one in the titleist d3 drivers?

I thought that the shafts for the R11s were the rip phenom shaft? I saw what you are looking at on aldilas website. I have hit those shafts in the titleist driver and it acted completely different. Strange if they are the same

I have been looking online and I can't get the torque, kick point, weight, or frequency for the shaft on the R11s. I was hitting the R11s today and i didn't like the way the ball came off the face. My launch angle and spin rate were crazy high.

I am curious what the other degrees on your irons are. You should have a 3-4 degree gap on them from the driver down. The thing that I would be interested to find out is your swing speed with your driver. If it is really low then the graphite shafts you have would be fine. Yet, if it's above 95 mph I would look into steel shafted clubs. The flexibility of the graphite shafts may be hurting your accuracy and length. Work on consistency and ball striking with those clubs. It wouldn't hurt to take a few lessons. It would be cheaper than replacing them.

I hit the RBZ 3 wood 15 degree today. Amazing. I toned it down and hit multiple over 280. I turned it up a notch and blew some out there over 300. Now I'm not sure that I would want my 3 wood to go that far but it was still crazy that I could even do that. My current R9 3 wood maxes out at 260 or so. I thought the feel out the club was better than most people had said. Now i also hit the r11s clubs and didn't see that much of a distance from the current one. I needed a stiffer shaft on the club which golf galaxy wasn't able to do. I am gonna stick with my current set up but anyone looking for a boost in distance would really benefit from the RBZ.