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Philbo

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About Philbo

  • Birthday 11/30/1982

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    Hacker

Your Golf Game

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  1. hi.. has anyone here or used the new Ping G10 fairway. What do you think? I'm looking to upgrade from my G5 3 wood. What shaft have to used/have installed?
  2. i switched from a TM mezza monza to a Ping Ug-Le due to my putting stoke also be straight back and through. I tried manipulating my stoke to the more traditional swinging door like pathway under the direction of my coach but it just didn't sit right with me. Himinez and Carrie Webb have both used this putter. As the name suggests, probably not for the traditionalist, but it works !!! I swtiched to the face balance, centre shafted Ping and it works brilliantly. Fits my eye very well and it just makes sense. I guess these are the things you want in your putter. The only thing i can advise you of is to make sure you hit A LOT of puts with a few different putters as they will all feel different. You may shank a few when you first start off but as you get your groove, the right putter will really jump out at you. Hope this helps.
  3. i'm hanging out for Cobra's new baffler hybrids and they are coming out in November... the marketing team is probably trying to release their new line in time for Christmas. I would presume the new drivers would be out then as well... awesome stock shafts on the L4v though
  4. hard to put a finger on it exactly... the answer may potentially lie in where you end up hitting the ball. Being a mid-high handicapper, you ball striking is probably not going to be as pure as lower handicap players, thus, you would probably missing the sweet spot more often than not. Hitting a straight shot should theoretically mean that no side spin is imparted on the ball, whereas a draw is hit with a mild degree of right to left rotation (right hander) and inevitably top spin as well. Based purely of physics, if the ball were hit on the same spot on the club and one with imparted with draw and the other neutral, you would that that the straighter ball would carry further, but the draw ball should roll further (due to top spin upon hitting the ground). All things being equal (ie. same swing speed on both swings) and your ending up with and increase in carry and roll with a draw bias ball flight, then the only other variable would be ball speed (determined by amongst other things, how well you hit the ball out of the center of the club)... I'm sure there could be other reasons but in my mind this would be the most logical...
  5. Cobra drivers absolutely annihilate the ball... supreme set ups with the best stock shafts money can buy. I hear the new LV4 drivers will be no exception...
  6. MOI absolutely matters... the short game is where you lower you score so the most help you can get here, the better. Blade like putters (depending on which model and brand) tend to have a smaller MOI, thus, don't tend to resist twisting on off center strikes as well as mallet style putters. For a low handicapper, this is fine because it gives them better feedback and feel, more for distance control and speed than direction. A mallet putter typically has a higher MOI, thus, if you don't hit the ball directly in the center, you still get similar distance control without much loss of direction either. I've tried a million different putters and the reality is that mallet putters do really work. I find them helpful not only in the above mentioned factors (distance control and speed is the absolute key) but also providing really good alignment aids as well. Although a blade putter does suit my eye very well, i'm just not as accurate with them as a mallet. The thing is with putters is that what works for me by no means will work for you so you really do need to go into the shop and hit as many balls as you can with as many putters as you can. It's vital !!!!
  7. Not entirely true... the reality is that to be a major player in a market that is really only dominated by a few brands, you must be able to differentiate yourself in some way from competitors. In Nike's case, they obviously have a massive marketing advantage in the form of Tiger, but they must also continue to provide great products in order for the general public to purchase them, and thus, generate revenue for the company. Endorsements, R+D etc... are a necessary evil in the world of equipment manufacturing, not to mention golf. The revenue they generate then goes back into the company to develop even better products and thus, continue to innovate. Without being in the industry, there is a reason why most of the big manufacturers set prices around the same price point, that is, because they are working along very similar margins. We have to remember that golf clubs are a luxury item and these club manufacturers cannot generate sufficient revenue by selling at high volumes and low cost. It just cannot happen, thus, they must set a high price, thus high margins and inevitably have lower turnover. "Clone" manufacturers obviously don't do this. They have no endorsement costs, use inferior products, have next to no R+D costs, and thus, are able to sell at a lower price point, albeit, i would imagin selling at a similar % margin compared to the big names. Tiger probably represents a large portion of their endorsement expenses, however, if you look at the names in the Nike stable, there aren't really that many. Compared to other brands, it seems as though others have a much larger representation, at least in terms of sponsored athletes than Nike, so cumulatively, without knowing exact figures, endorsement costs arguably be seen as being much the same across all brands. That is probably why nearly all the brands price their clubs at a similar level. Although i do partially agree that the Tiger factor will probably make the clubs more desirable for some, they still must set them at a price that represents their value. Ie. just because Tiger uses them doesn't mean you can set them at $1 million dollars, nor does it mean that they can set prices below cost. the price of clubs, whether consciously or subconsciously will create some degree of status and pedigree to the untrained individual. If they were to price cheaply, people would automatically assume they are of inferior quality. The reason we pay the price we pay is because companies spend a great deal of money marketing products to make them desirable, and the reality is, we pay it!!! It a matter of striking the balance between the positive and negative effects of pricing high and low. You cannot tell me that a clone company will sell the same quality product as the big names. It just does not happen...
  8. simple yet incredibly frustration lack of etiquette again displayed by amateurs: Not YELLING 'fore' when they hit a ridiculously terrible shank off course, knowing that you are somewhere in the vicinity of where the ball will land. Don't be an ass and tee off when the group in front is only 100m away, that's just plain stupid If you hanging out on the course with a couple of mates, that's fine just don't hold up 10 groups behind you. Repair your divots and rake the bunkers.... Not really rules as such but just common courtesy things really
  9. i'm after the G5 3 wood.... tip size needed for shaft replacement
  10. my take on it is this... If you spend say $500 (double your budget) on a decent set of clubs, it has many advantages: You have a better set of clubs compared to clones, guaranteed of quality ( i have purchased on ebay and so long as you purchase from a reputable dealer with good feedback, you can pretty must be rest assured that they will not rip you off - that's the whole point of feedback from customers and in a lot of ways, these businesses only sell on line, so feedback and return customers are vital to their survival. Buying better clubs early saves you forking out AGAIN a few years later when you get better. Ie. $250 now, few years time $500 and you've pain $750 over the years. Aren't you just better off spending $500 now and not upgrading for the next few years (you already have decent clubs !!!) I guess it does really come down to what you can afford though, and if you can't part with larger sums of money from the get go, then i guess your reasoning seems logical.
  11. from the one i have used (a flat net and a 1/2 dome) neither of them is particulary convenient to pack up and put away. However, if i had to pick one, the 1/2 done was easier to set up and put away as there are less individual pieces. The frame is created by a flexible series of interconnected poles about 75cm long each. All you need to do is connect them together, thread it through net and bend them to set it up. It does take a bit of practice but after a while it only takes a few minutes
  12. I think there has been some really good advise already put up in this thread. However, one issues is that the camera angle isn't really conducive to a really good analysis... ie. its not directly behind you. If it was, we could probably have a better idea as to what plane. I trick that really helps be get my striking correct is a really simple one. You really just need to focus on the ball intently, not only at impact, but also after you have made contact. The good thing about the range that you are at is that you have a parallel line to the direction you want to hit the ball. For all intents and purposes, if you are in fact only pushing the ball out right and not fading it as well, you will actually see the ball not follow the same path as the parallel line on the ground. What i visualise if firstly to pick a target that is in line with the line on the ground. When i come to address, i align my feet and club face to that line. That way, you insure everything is in line with the target. When you swing and contact, imagine train tracks running parallel with this line and hit in between the train tracks. If you get it right, the ball after impact should only travel on this line and the club head should pass right through the middle. Difficult to explain but works well with me, keeps our head down. focuses on contact, keeps things real simple (ie. don;t worry too much about swing plane, wrist position, turning over wrists etc...) Also, try swinging a little less aggressively and learn to release you follow through a bit better
  13. There are some decent ones on ebay believe it or not. However, it is ebay.... enough said. What you need to look for is a net that is almost like a 1/2 dome instead of the flat nets. They cost a bit more, but believe me, they are more than worth the little bit extra that you need to pay. All these nets should come with pegs that you push into the ground to stop the impact and moment of the ball pushing the net over. This solves your problem instantaneously. If you want the name of the brand on ebay... i can dig it up for you. good luck !!!
  14. Don't worry too much about the offset thing... the reality in, unless you are an absolute natural or your natural beginner swing is a hook (unlikely), then having too much offset is never going to be an issue for you. To be honest, i started off with a pro set of King Cobras, bad idea because they were too hard to hit for a newby. So i switched to the Callaway Big Bertha 04 and haven't looked back since. In fact, i'm still playing with them and i'm currently playing off 10. So i guess the lesson is you naturally become adept at whatever you start playing with and it just gels, even if you start getting beyond the mid-handicapper range. From past experience, i can only comment on wedge clones. I cannot remember the names but i have tried a clone of the cleveland 588 and titleist vokey oil can. The cleveland clone worked well but the titleist clone was a shocker... so you will probably get a mix of good a bad. pot luck maybe??? Words of warning... steer clear of the clone drives and woods... they are absolutely rubbish. This is ware the technology lies and where R+D put all their money so buying a clone will probably make things worse than say buying a 5 year old + driver from a big brand. you could probably pick up, say a Taylormade R580 or even an R7 for next to nothing these days. In saying that, my recommendations would be this. Grab youself a second hand set of clubs from a reputable brand. Go for the super game improvement side of things because it makes the game heaps more from when you learning and makes you want to keep playing instead of turfing the clubs in the next lake you see. Clones are a risk, some may do the job while others may not. Don't worry about whether the clubs will be appropriate when you lower your handicap because you do get used to clubs, better player clubs are harder to hit and thus less enjoyable, in a few years time when you do reach this level, the clubs you have now will be outdated etc... the list goes on. Hope this helps... good luck
  15. Hi all, Does anyone know what tip size the Ping G10 3 wood is? I have a sneaking suspicion that it may possibly be .350 but not entirely certain? Anyone have any idea? Thanks
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