Jon Robert

From the link you provided: .... as the club gets shorter (cut from the butt end), the club actually remains the same flex.... [or gets slightly softer]

NOBODY on this planet can feel the shaft flex in their hand. That is flexing between the ring finger and the middle finger of the left hand as if you were trying to bend a pencil. Cutting off one inch changes nothing in flex. You probably cannot make a machine to flex it one inch from the end.

I don't know where you live but it is rummage sale season. Clubs are everywhere here in Milwaukee. Arm your self with $75 bucks and you can come back with a killer deal. Look on Craigslist for rummage sales that list clubs near you. You can even email them and ask for more details before the sale date. lots of rummage sales have club sets. (1990ish) I bought my fist complete set ever in my life, irons, woods, putter, balls, glove, AND CHANGE IN TH POCKET for FIVE BUCKS! Actually $3.65 factoring in the change. There are a lot of frustrated golfers that never want to see the clubs again. For distance on irons shorten the shafts so that you hit the sweet spot more often and when that is done then heavier clubs are better. For example I think Pings are lighter than Callaway. Light is supposedly good for getting swing speed BUT what would you rather hit a golf ball with A flyswatter or a baseball bat?

I have Hogan Apex Edge. They have very wide rounded bounce soles. They are great for most everything. I also have Hogan 1963 IPT blades that have as equally wide of sole on the shorter clubs at least. However they have zero bounce and a knife blade edge where face meets sole. You had better be a rather accurate striker of the Ball. You have 2 choices. You take a divot where you want or you take a divot where you don't want. It will knife out a divot one way or the other. Comparing the two extremes is one is for divot wanters and one is for no divot wanters. Also one is for plowing through the sand and one is for knifing into the sand where you want OR NOT where you want. Likewise width of sole can produce similar effects where wide plows and narrow digs. Wide may bounce/skip on hard earth while narrow may dig/slide It is really common sense applied physics.

Come on you are a college kid and should be smarter than that. Just kidding everyone has to start some place. Buy neither. Buy clubs that are a few years old on eBay or Craigslist at a deep discount. They are several things in one. Cheaper, top of the line if you want, disposable/rejectable due to low investment, experimental as you work out your preferences and needs etc, etc. I have bought a lot of clubs that I was certain I was going to need/use/keep that have long since found other homes. I will very seldom buy new unless I simply cannot get them used. The putter will be the first to be tossed then the Driver. That being said - Callaway

First of all you are going about this all wrong. You have all the makings of a star but you have no agent to manage you. You need to take your technical leanings and harness them better. Change your all out, all or nothing approach. You can remove grips and shorten what you have one club at a time using masking tape to identify sweet spot strike % as you cut off the inches. Do not throw this opportunity out by just removing shafts and replace them on speculation and assumption. You may find chart lengths to be bogus based on your actual testing. You may find that women's length minus 1 inch results in you never missing the sweet spot. Have one club altered as you "THINK" you need. Then hit it on the test board to work out your lie angle. I am rather certain that any in to out or out to in will not be a factor. One you have identified that lie angle you can build the clubs a bit on either side. the longer clubs or shorter.may have a different lie angle. ALL THE CHARTS SAY BASED ON MY HEIGHT THAT I NEED 4 DEGREES UPRIGHT - I ACTUALLY USE 6 DEGREES FLAT YOU CANNOT USE CHARTS AND GRAPHS TO BE CERTAIN ABOUT END RESULTS Take you best guess and then proceed incrementally proving the assumptions as you go. This is much less eye opening than ending up with a complete set of OOPS

There is about a 97% likelihood that 8.5 degrees is nowhere near the correct loft for you.

Testing the Performance of Drivers of Different Eras by Chris Mile, President of Miles of Golf on January 15, 2010 http://www.milesofgolf.com/blog/golf-clubs/vintage-vs-technology/ Do current drivers perform better than hickories from the 1920s? How much better? How about early steel shafted clubs from the 1930s, or drivers from the 1950-60s, or the early metal drivers? This was the impetus for a test we conducted in the Miles of Golf Cluboratory in Ann Arbor, Michigan using a TrackMan ball flight monitor. The results are not surprising, current clubs do perform better. We have measurements of distance and accuracy for seven (7) different drivers that span the years from 1920 to the present. The details of testing along with a video are very interesting and follow: The Testing Process. Club Fitter. Brent Norton conducted the test. Brent manages the Miles of Golf Cluboratory and is recognized as one of the very best club-fitters in the country. Major club manufacturers like Titleist, Cobra and Callaway send prototype clubs to Brent for his evaluation. Club Testers. In the video, we had two players test each club. One player, Doug Davis, has an outstanding amateur record, is a former captain of the University of Michigan Golf Team and an all Big-Ten player. Doug is one of the owners of Miles of Golf. Doug is not a long hitter. The other tester was Scott Hayes. Scott competes professionally and also teaches at the Kendall Academy located at Miles of Golf. Scott is also a past captain of the University of Michigan Golf Team. Scott’s ball striking numbers are comparable to a PGA Tour player. We gathered data from 4 additional players making the total number we tested six. All players were consistant ball strickers with club-head speeds ranging from the 80 to 110 mph. Test Clubs. The clubs tested were supplied by Gene Bolden. Gene has a huge collection of clubs and is one of the most knowledgeable collectors in the country. Gene is the ex-basketball coach of Div I Oakland University. During the shooting of the video, Gene adds interesting and colorful information on the vintage clubs. 1. MacGregor persimmon head and hickory shaft from 1923. 2. Schavolite Composite head with an early steel shaft from the 1930s. 3. MacGregor Tourney persimmon head with True Temper Tour shaft from 1949. 4. Cleveland Classic (MacGregor M85 copy)persimmon head with Dynamic Gold shaft from the 1970-80s. 5. Taylor Made Burner Plus 9.5 with a stainless steel head and Dynamic Golf shaft from the 1980s 6. Taylor Made R9 9.5 with a Titanium head and stock graphite shaft, a current 2009 club. 7. The driver the player currently plays. These were 2009 drivers fit to the player. After warming up to get a feel for each club, players hit 6 balls with each club. The same procedure was followed with all 7 drivers. The ball used was the Titleist Pro V1. The monitor used was the TrackMan, considered the most accurate in the industry. It is a Doppler radar device used by every club manufacturer to test and develop new clubs. Test Results. How do clubs of different eras compare when we measure the distance and accuracy of each? Distance . Comparison of total distance to include carry distance plus rollout. 1. From the hickories in the 1920s to titanium drivers of 2009, there was an average increase of total distance of 26%. For the testers, the smallest increase was 37 yards and the biggest was 73 yards. 2. Each era showed increases in distance with one exception. The early stainless steel drivers of the 1980s did not show increased distance over persimmon clubs of the 1970 and 80s. 3. The greatest improvement from one era to the next came with the titanium drivers. Roughly one-half the increase in distance (13%) took place between the late persimmon / early stainless steel drivers of the 1980s and the current titanium. 4. Higher club-head speed players had a greater PERCENTAGE increase in distance. Slower swingers had low 20% range increases while faster swingers had increases in the low 30% range. 5. Launch angles remained relatively constant. 6. Spin numbers decreased substantially, approximately 41%. This is a major factor in increased performance of new drivers. 7. Club-head speed increased 5%. 8. Ball speed increased 12%. 9. Efficiency, or the ratio of club-head speed to ball speed, increased 6%. 10. There was noticeable improvement in distance with the club fitted for the player over just a random 2009 titanium driver. Accuracy. Comparison of the right and left dispersion of shots from the intended target. 1.From the hickories in the 1920s to titanium drivers of 2009, the accuracy improved 34%. This was computed by measuring the standard deviation of shots hit with each driver. 2.There were no great improvements in accuracy from 1940-1990. About two-thirds of the total improvement came with the current titanium drivers. 3.There was noticeable improvement in accuracy with the club fitted for the player over just a random 2009 titanium driver. Drivers fit for a player improved accuracy more than distance. Summary. Both distance and accuracy of drivers has improved with each successive era with the exception of the distance of early stainless steel drivers. Drivers from the 1920s to 2009 saw distance improved 26% and accuracy 34%. The major advances in both distance and accuracy took place with the introduction of titanium drivers. Download Miles of Golf Vintage Test Results Share and Enjoy:

Golf instruction is infuriating because...contest. Can you beat the left wrist? VISUALIZE! Beginners on the range or course contorting their bodies to hit a golf ball while trying to have the watch on the left wrist facing the earth. I hope the community has enough ambulances and plaster to make casts for broken bones. People try to explain something but all they accomplish is to thoroughly confuse the situation beyond repair. For example a 3 year old child knows that the wrist can make a circular movement to any degree on a 360 wheel until the outer range of movement is reached. As well as any spot withing that circle. Not only that but the wrist can spin on any one of the spots it is located. And spin at various rates while changing position within the out limits of movement. So what do we hear about the wrist in the golf swing? According to the LAW's chart https://mywebspace.wisc.edu/pasdirtz/web/golf/GOLF_LAWs_Chart.html the wrist should be straight or concave. There is no concave position on a 360 degree circle. Is the vein side concave? The back side concave? or the side side concave? for every concave the opposite side is convex. While the side side is angled. To understand how to make the wrist "concave" requires searching for answers. This results in people trying to explain something but all they accomplish is to thoroughly confuse the situation beyond repair. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ What does our meaning of concave search discover? " In the April 1956 issue of Golf Digest, Hogan wrote, "I've noticed one thing that all good golfers do and all bad golfers do not. The good ones have their left wrist leading at impact. It seems a small thing, but I've found it to be universally true. At impact the left wrist of a good player is slightly convex, while that of a poor player is generally concave... This is all easier said than done. Proper supination with a flat or bowed left wrist is an advanced concept and one that it very difficult for the average golfer to learn. The vast majority of golfers instinctively flip their left wrists forward through impact believing that such an action will produce the optimal results: maximum distance and trajectory. Unfortunately, this couldn't be any farther from the truth. As with most things in golf, intuition must be thrown out the window. Instead, think of rotating your left wrist without breaking it." http://www.grouchygolf.com/2006/11/supinate-wrist-key-to-solid-swing.html *********Well surely this teacher knows what they are talking about after all they have included a photo of Tiger************** But they also included a helpful link about supination which says: "A good drill that I've come across to teach this action is the wrist watch drill advocated by David Leadbetter. It relies on the simple image of a wrist watch on your left wrist. Concentrate on maintaining the watch face facing toward the ground at impact." http://www.grouchygolf.com/2006/12/tips-supination-through-impact.html Lets review the "facts": the wrist should be straight the wrist should be concave The good ones have their left wrist leading at impact while that of a poor player is generally concave... (don't look at fact 2 above) Proper supination flat or bowed is an advanced concept golfers instinctively flip their left wrists Instead, think of rotating your left wrist without breaking it wrist watch on your left wrist facing toward the ground at impact IF I WERE TO CONTINUE THIS EXERCISE WITH MANY MORE SOURCES OF INSTRUCTION A CLUELESS BEGINNER WOULD BE CONFUSED BEYOND REPAIR. Does anybody ever question stupidity? You would end up in the hospital trying to get your watch to face the ground while attempting to hit a golf ball Golf instruction is infuriating because...contest. Can you beat the left wrist?

Here is some more interesting tid bits: "Back-weighting clubs is not knew. Jack Nicklaus back-weighted clubs, as do a number of tour players. The process of back-weighting clubs has been somewhat cumbersome, requiring drilling through the end of the grip. The Secret Grip accomplishes the same thing simply by changing the grip. "None of the average golfers know anything about back-weighting," Boccieri said. "Jack Nicklaus used it in his day and people throughout the tour do it, but it's kind of behind closed doors, basically...." Read More http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equipment/blogs/newstuff/2012/01#ixzz22hG5d0nr "

" where do you buy the stuff for this? the silicon and the other thing?" The torch, small level, and small tube of silicone caulk can be found at any hardware store. Home Depot, Menards etc. The ladle there maybe and check the kitchen section. Try a hardware store for the ladle and lead. If not get a heavy metal ladle from a kitchen store. Of course some gloves safety goggles etc. If no lead there then go to a fishing store and buy cheap lead sinkers. You may want to buy a ladle from a mail order fishing store. they sell them for making your own sinkers. In my case I would need 22 ounces to do my 11 irons.

Bravo brilliant ingenuity!!! "So now how do I convert 14.4 oz to a swing weight? I understand I don't need to know the swing weight but it would be nice." The surest way is to measure your clubs as is on your scale And then take them to a SW scale somewhere. You can then try to figure out a pattern/relationship maybe. But at least you have a known equivalent. You would need to add say 1/2 ounce to the club and get two measurements to try to identify a SW scale conversion to your 2 readings. You could assume that the advertised SW for the factory club is correct and make that your 14.4 equivalent. (if your club is factory- or borrow a known factory unaltered club) And then add weight per the various manuals that says "One swingweight point equals 1.7 to 2.2 grams of weight, depending on the club's length. For example, adding 2 grams of weight to the grip end of a D-9 club would reduce the swingweight to D-8; adding 2 grams to the clubhead side would increase the swingweight to E-0." http://golftips.golfsmith.com/change-swing-weight-golf-club-20370.html the resulting notes becomes your scale conversion to SW I doubt that there is any other method besides what I describe. The only other way would be to duplicate the supports and pivot points of a current scale. If that were the quest then you would be better off just buying one. Buy the wheel instead of inventing an identical wheel. Your device is perfect now all you need to do is transfer your measurement to the SW scale reference. Time to connect with someone who has a SW scale in your area to compare your findings for accuracy

ps here is a 4 iron that has no caulk in it. I filled the entire cavity and determined that it was too much. I chiseled out enough to equal 2 ounces remaining and then added a little lead tape to make it perfect. I just never got around to putting the caulk in yet. Same with my three iron. I'll get to it someday.

In the angle shot you are looking down into the hollow pocket. You are seeing the clear silicone caulk. Beneath the silicone caulk is 2 ounces of lead that was poured into the hollow cavity. As I said the alteration is hardly noticed and the club remains "pretty" looking as opposed to ugly The finished result is similar to the Apex Edge PRO The PRO has no hollow cavity and comes "full" of steel. I could not do this to the "PRO" version

Informational Club Database The USGA has received numerous inquiries from golfers wishing to know whether or not their clubs will meet the new groove and punch mark specifications effective from Jan. 1, 2010 (the "New Groove Rules"). Many of these inquiries have come from golfers who plan to play in events where the condition of competition is in effect, requiring that the player's clubs conform to the New Groove Rules (the "Condition of Competition"). As a result, the USGA and The R&A; have created a reference resource called the Informational Club Database (the "Database"). How to Use The Informational Club Database The purpose of the Database is to assist golfers in determining whether their irons, hybrids and fairway woods comply with the New Groove Rules. The Database is a searchable database of irons, fairway woods with lofts of 25 degrees or higher, and hybrids with lofts of 25 degrees or higher, submitted to the USGA and/or The R&A; prior to Jan. 1, 2010 and evaluated to determine whether they meet the New Groove Rules. If it is indicated in the Database that a club does not comply with the New Groove Rules, it does not mean that the club does not conform to the Rules of Golf. Irons, hybrids and fairway woods available prior to Jan.1, 2010, which conform to the 2008-2009 Rules of Golf, are permitted for use until at least 2024, provided that the Condition of Competition is not in effect. etc etc http://www.usga.org/InfoClubsDB/intro.html http://www.usga.org/InfoClubsDB/search_results.asp If an ATR (Additional Testing Required) indicator is displayed in the "Meets 2010 Groove Rules" column, it signifies that based on the samples submitted, there was insufficient information available to provide a definitive answer regarding the status of the club or set of clubs relative to the New Groove Rules. As a result, the player assumes the risk that his club or set of clubs does/do not comply if the player chooses to carry the club or set of clubs when the Condition of Competition requiring conformance to the New Groove Rules is in effect, unless the player has the individual club or set of clubs tested and they are found to meet the New Groove Rules. Club Type: Irons and Wedges Manufacturer Product Name Loft Club # Markings Meets Pre-2010 Rules of Golf Meets 2010 Groove Rules TaylorMade-adidas Golf 320 6 View Markings Yes No SOLE: (club number/letter) BACK: (T logo), (line), 320 HOSEL: TaylorMade (w/ T logo) TaylorMade-adidas Golf Burner '09 (Version 1) 4 View Markings Yes ATR SOLE: (club number/letter) BACK: (cavity badge w/ circle) HOSEL: TaylorMade (w/T logo) TaylorMade-adidas Golf Burner '09 (Version 1) etc etc etc

The 11 iron is like a gap wedge. Hogan irons use different names as well. E,F,S,L where the F would be the 11 equivalent. Hogan PW is an Equalizer, F is Fairway

I am 6'4" and use plus three wedges. This results in a lie angle of 6 degrees flat. You can easily tell if your lie angle is wrong by masking taping the club and making several strikes on a board. If the strike marks are centered then no adjustment is required. My 1963 Hogan IPT extended to plus 3 results in strike markes right at the hosel. Obviously these irons need bending flat. If you are striking the irons in the center between the score line ends then look elsewhere for your ball flight cause. Like a slightly out to in swing path

copied from: http://blog.hirekogolf.com/2007/11/what-length-golf-clubs-do-you-need/ A few years ago I fitted an individual that presented a unique challenge. His name was Mike and a professional in the medical field.Through referrals, he contacted me for a fitting.He explained on the phone that he had a birth defect in which his whole arm length was only the length of that to a normal person’s elbow position.He wanted to play golf, but physically could not bend far enough down to grip a club.I asked him to stop by as I had some ideas that I thought would help him out. Mike was approximately 5’ 8”, but a WTF measurement of 43”.To put this in perspective, his WTF might be more equivalent of someone standing 7’ 4”.In addition, he was of average strength at best and not built like that of an individual much taller and physically stronger in which to compensate for heavier weights caused by the need for longer clubs.After some calculations, experimentation and fast-stetting epoxy we ended up making a partial set – a few of which I would like to share.His driver was only 2” longer than normal (47”), his 5-iron was 43.5” (5.5” longer than average) and his PW was 42” (6.5” longer than average). Today, what I remember most about Mike was not his unique physique or the challenging fitting process, rather he was by far the happiest customer I could every remembered who picked up their clubs.He was so proud of “ his ” set of clubs. Finally he had something that fitted him that he could enjoy that the majority of golfers take for granted.

If you remove wheel weights forever try GOOP waterless handcleaner globs to soak overnight to remove evidence of glue. note: OBVIOUSLY MOLTEN LEAD AT HUNDREDS OF DEGREES REQUIERES SAFETY GLASSES / PROCEEDURES.

The 2 club pictures show clubs with hollow pocket design. I have never actually seen inside the Taylormande but it may be space free of plastic, rubber etc. 1) I place the club in a vise making sure the scoring lines are level to a spirit level. (level to gravity and not the vice) another person may want to tilt it one way or another so the liquid lead will favor the toe or heal. Mine is level. 2) I take a scale of some sort to weigh out the lead. I am using 2 ounces and this will fill the club pocket about 1/3 full thus it stands to reason that if I filled the Hogan Apex Edge full I would have added about 6 ounces. (I did do that but it was too much) Obviously the more accurate the scale the more perfect the result but a cheap small 1# kitchen scale will work I have collected lead over the years from plumbing sewer pipes, wheel weights etc. 3) I have an actual lead ladle but a metal kitchen ladle can suffice. I use an ordinary propane torch that is sold in every store. I melt the lead and then move the flame under the ladle to keep it molten as I pour. 4) I pour in the lead, turn off the torch set aside and about that time the lead has solidified. I remove from the vice and dunk it in water. I cool it so any heat does not soften the epoxy holding the head to shaft. 5) Dry it out with a hair dryer or whatever. I place clear silicon caulk in the remaining 2/3 of the pocket and smooth with my finger and let dry. You would never notice the weighting unless looking carefully. The entire process takes about 5-10 minutes per club. But a first timer should take their time as there is no reason to rush anything except the heating pouring combination. I have removed the lead to experiment several times. I use a drill and bit to drill holes in the lead at an angle that is allowed to do it.. This provides reliefs and voids to allow movement when I pry the lead out with a narrow screw driver. For flat back clubs I have contact cemented lead to the back. The contact cement is a bear to remove if removing the lead. I have tried to burn it off and high speed wire wheel it off. I learned to soak them overnight with GOOP waterless hand cleaner globbed on the cement. The cement softens into yuck and then wipes off. I don't remember now 15 years later but I think I glued about 6 or 8 ounces to the backs to experiment.

I don't know the design of your clubs, blade or cavity. I also take note of the dislike of lead tape so I say this thinking it is really unacceptable. Stick on wheel weights. You can get substantial weight via glue/stick on wheel weights. (Auto parts store) If nothing else to determine that you have solved or not solve the issue and work out how much weight. I have also been frustrated but that nose dived when I discovered Hogan Apex Edge. The pocket allows me to pour in lead and distribute it as I see fit. Clear silicon caulk seals it. I have seen some irons lately that are hollow. I bet I could drill a hole fill with lead and reseal. My Hogans are just fine and prevent me from going down that path right now. In the future when these are cheaper on the used market I may try experiments with these hollow variations.

I doubt it $10, BIO MECH II (2) 5I REG GR http://golfgaps.tripod.com/knock.off.htm Bio Mech II Golf Club Iron Set 4-PW,SW $49.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=390445743667&item;=390445743667&ttle;=Bio+Mech+II+Golf+Club+Iron+Set+4-PW%2CSW&vectorid;=229466&tc;=US On Monday, December 10, 1984, a U.S. federal trademark registration was filed for BIO-MECH by Ralph Maltby Enterprises, Inc. , NEWARK 43055 . The USPTO has given the BIO-MECH trademark serial number of 73512812 . The current federal status of this trademark filing is CANCELLED - SECTION 8 . The correspondent listed for BIO-MECH is JAMES W. PYLE of REESE, MCNENNY, PYLE & DRAKE, 36 NORTH SECOND STREET, NEWARK, OHIO 43055 . The BIO-MECH trademark is filed in the category of Toys and Sporting Goods Products . The description provided to the USPTO for BIO-MECH is GOLF CLUB HEADS . http://www.trademarkia.com/biomech-73512812.html

" For those of you who play/have played clones which do you feel is the best clone brand? The two that I have looked at are Pinemeadow and Gigagolf ." The truth is that marketing is the majority of the golf industry. When every iron out there is examined truthfully they are all basically the same. IN FUNCTION AND FORM Each cavity back that has similar hosel is virtually identical. Etc Center of gravity, swing weight, total weight everything. Often the much hyped millimeter shift of weight is completely meaningless. It is advertising shtick. Yes there are some parameters that do have substantial influence. I remember the story of the electric motor salesman who traveled from trade show to trade show. In discussions with other exhibitors he revealed that nothing has changed in motors for many years. They simply paint each new production a different color and it subconsciously convinces the consumer that there must be a difference. Any clone has equal potential to be great,good, garbage. One very important factor to be concerned with is public response/sales. For example I will only buy forged irons so that I can bend the lie I will not buy brittle cast as they break. Even so I have broke many and I am keenly aware that metal has bending limits. Cheap quality forged may have defect and they will break. I play the odds and try to get good metallurgy so I don't have surprises. I realize that they are probably all made in basically the same factories in China now days. There have been many clones that are no where near the quality of the original but the maker don't care. They will continue to sell the same volume of cheap metallurgy as they would if they cut into profits to use good metallurgy. Why bother sales will not improve. Name brand makers have more at stake they are top of the heap players and don't want to get a reputation as cheap junk I use Golfsmith all the time for components besides heads. For experiments, shaft extension, lead weight etc. I have used their component heads in the past until it dawned on me that I can buy top of the line used clubs at less price than new component clubs. To answer your question, Golfsmith.

Can you actually hit a golf ball 99% of the time on the sweet spot? From what (I THINK ?) you said you don't and blades would be foolish. Wishon - Search for the Perfect Golf Club page 58 "If you are, however, a mere mortal and don't hit it on center 99 percent of the time, then get smart and get a cavity back. I mean, over half of the tour pros use cavity backs,so that should tell you something..." ============================================== If you are not an expert caliber striker are you loaded with $? From what you said you are not If blades don't work out then you have $ sitting un-used. On the other hand blades are fantastic for use on the practice field as they provide instant feedback via the signiture ball flight based on how you hit it. I cannot justify hundreds of dollars for pretty blades just to kick around for practice. I have a 1963 set of Hogan IPT blades. they are in like new condition due I suppose to guality metalurgy and plating back then. they are pretty but I don't care really as I use Cavities for playing. Although When I do use these on short beginner courses for giggles they are proudly perched in my bag even if they do hit 2 clubs shorter. I have a Mizuno MP-30 sitting next to me as I type that I tried one day. It lauched 2 balls directly over the tee box on the hole to the right. there are no magical qualities in Mizuno irons. They are like fishing lures. Designed to catch fisherman and not fish. I agree Mizuno are beauties but the LUST must be tempered with wisdom. That women may be gorgious but the rest of your live would be hell if you take the bait. Plan of attack. 1 ) Get a set of cavities to play with 2) get a relatively cheap set of Hogan blades off ebay to fulfil this itch that needs scratching http://www.google.com/search?q=hogan+irons&hl;=en&rlz;=1T4GZGN_enUS484US484&prmd;=imvnsfd&tbm;=isch&tbo;=u&source;=univ&sa;=X&ei;=o9EbUOqXE6rD0QH2pIHgDA&ved;=0CF8QsAQ&biw;=1441&bih;=621 ====== You can buy older top of the line modles used much cheaper than building new component stuff. Golf clubs are like cameras, TV's etc. People read magazines and stuff and are convinced that last years model has been rendered completely obsolete by this years. They simply cannot be seen with last years and they sell it.