bhp1404

Originally Posted by RPMPIRE I have the Nike VR Pro blades and I chose them over the Titleist 710/12 mostly because I prefer to have a thinner top line and the Nike VR had the thinnest one. There are more grooves on the Nike irons, which doesn't take long to get used to or revert back from if you decide to change irons. 710 is chrome, 712 is satin, and Nike is chrome. Most of the differences are aesthetics and if everyone says that they perform the same, then I think that's what you probably have to chose from. I chose the one with the thinner top line, which is my preference. Thats good to know. Thanks -Your kidding right? You know i said the exact same thing as him, right before he did just worded a little differently. He just happens to own his clubs where i have only hit them.

"For the record i have hit both of these clubs many times, i just dont have them in my bag because there is not much of an advantage to have a MB blade higher than an 8 iron. There is only so much Titleist and Nike can do do differentiate in such a compact design. The only ones that would feel and possibly perform differently are Scratch Blades (1018 Carbon Steel) or maybe a custom Muira Forged iron." That was post #6, do your research before you make statements.

I have hit about 100 balls with each of these clubs, like I am saying for the 2nd time. If that doesnt count as playing then obviously you dont want a honest opinion. You came here for help, which is what i was trying to do, and i gave you facts and experiences to prove the only differences are looks and perception. Again you said "you know the difference" which you clearly dont because you wouldnt ask for our opinions if you did or even if there was a difference between them(which there isnt). For some reason you dont value my opinion and experiences, which is odd because you asked for it.

Im not trying to argue with you, but there is only one difference between the Titleist MB 710 and the Nike VR Blades and that is the groove pattern of the Nikes, there is more grooves on the face. I have Nikes with the same groove pattern and it doesnt feel any different than any other iron. They are both chrome, they have the same loft, same 1025 steel, and same design. Well the 6 iron lie angle on the Nike is 62.5 instead of 62, if that is the deal breaker between the two clubs then you got me. The only difference that you are going to find are ones created by your own mind because they are THE EXACT SAME CLUB. I went through this buying process and figured out how most of these clubs are the same except for looks. Considering you said these clubs "are very different," how do you know they are very different if you havent hit them and clearly havent done research on them.

Obviously you dont care about the few people who give you accurate information and you also dont understand why people are grilling you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw-sJ37AutE There is no difference other than look and perception. Some of the comments were a little over the line but you kind of set them up for it. Watch the video and you will see that we were right.

I am not sure if it would acutally make a difference, i just thought if there was one club that would feel and perform different it would be a club made from a softer 1018 steel. And as for Muira, they are just really high quality irons. These were just educated guesses, not factual.

For the record i have hit both of these clubs many times, i just dont have them in my bag because there is not much of an advantage to have a MB blade higher than an 8 iron. There is only so much Titleist and Nike can do do differentiate in such a compact design. The only ones that would feel and possibly perform differently are Scratch Blades (1018 Carbon Steel) or maybe a custom Muira Forged iron.

Those 2 clubs are pretty much the same thing. You probably wouldnt notice a difference performance wise, so it is pretty much up to what you like standing over. I know the MB 712 is a satin finish, which is probably the best looking iron on the market but i dont know if the 710 is chrome or not. I love the satin finishes over the chrome ( my preference). I dont know your iron set up but i wouldnt get MB long irons no matter how good you are. There is no advantage.

Where ever you go to get a fitting make sure you hit off a lie board to make sure you actually need 2* flat. Just because you are 5-6 doesnt mean you automatically need it flattened. Like i said earlier i am 5-5 and i have standard. It is based on more on your swing path than your height. With S3 and any other cast club you cant just bend tthem as much as you want. If you get 2* flat then realize that is not right, it is risky to bend it again, because the metal will crack. One free way to tell if you need a club bent is to go to the range and hit some iron shots. Look at the divots. If the divot is steeper/taller on heel side then you need it flattened and if it steeper on the toe side you need it upright. If the divot is the same on both sides, then you dont need it bent.

Did the fitter have you hit off a lie board or did he just base it off your height? I am like 5-5 and i have standard length and lie. Yes lie does vary with some manufacuters. I think mizuno is 1* flatter than others. Lie is not as important with woods and hybrids unless you are a better player. It is not recommended to bend cast clubs anywhere other than the manufacturer for warranty purposes. Getting clubs cut down will affect the flex of the club by making it a little stiffer. Alot of fitters i have been to say to just choke down a little. Your taller than me so that should be an option too. If you get it cut down and get 2* flat, it might not be correct.

Those distances are normal, its about what i hit. Also brand probably wont affect distance, but could affect spin and feel. If you get a cavity back wedge, like one that comes in an iron set, then that could affect distance.

Taylormade Burner 2.0, Callaway Razr, Ping G15, Cobra S3. These are all good and pretty cheap. They are all easy to hit and great beginner irons. For drivers, you want to get something relatively new because technology has changed so much. Taylormade Burner and Callaway Octane or Diablo are good and cheap as well. The driver is more important than irons, so i would spend a little more time getting fitted for the right driver but still take time on the irons. Try Rockbottomgolf.com, they have a great selection of cheap clubs.

I have the Combo's and i couldnt disagree with you more. Yes they have a smaller head, but they are still surprisingly forgiving. The sweet spot is probably bigger than the MP 59, i have hit the MP 59 many times and they dont have that same "mizuno feel" because of that gold weight in the back. They feel great but i dont think significantly better than the Nike. The long irons with the pocket cavity are also surprisingly forgiving. I am not even that good of a ball striker and i hit these great. Also if the clubs are light then you could just put a little heavier shaft in like a DG S300. And you can order almost any grip you want, I ordered Golf PRide Tour Velvet for no charge. The MP 59 is a great club but it is not that much better.

I am always a fan of a person upgrading to better players clubs, but as an 18 hcp, im not sure it is the best idea. Unless there are alot of dings, scratches, and the grooves are worn down i dont think getting new irons will lower your hcp by 8. You said yourself that your swing isnt right, so getting new clubs wont magically fix it. I would fix your swing then at that point decide if you want new clubs or not. As for you club choices, there is a pretty big range you have. Adams Pro A12 is on the better players side and Cobra S3 is a very forgiving GI club. If you do decide to get new clubs, i would get the CB2. They are a little more forgiving than the A12 but still an upgrade from the R7. The Burner 2.0 is good too but they strengthen the lofts by about 3* so they give this false sense of distance. Now if/when you get to that 10 hcp range then Pro A12 will be a great choice. As a higher hcp you want your long irons to be easy to hit and the A12 might be a little tough. Of course if you try out all the clubs and the A12 works for you, then by all means get them.

If you are happy with your game, and you can do all the shots you want then there is nothing wrong with the irons. If you feel like you have hit a wall and want a little more out of irons, then maybe look at new irons. I dont think you are "losing" anything with MX 100. If you do decide to get new irons, dont expect your hcp to just go down.

Justin Rose -3 Lee Westwood -3 Mahan -3

What ever you do you have to get a steel shaft. Your swing speed is way too high for a graphite shaft, especially regular. I might be wrong but a carry of 180 doesnt seem like a lot for a 102 mph swing. I carry 170 with a 85 mph swing. Maybe the whip of the graphite shaft affected your ball striking. You definately need a Stiff or X-Stiff shaft. Driver wise you should look at Ping i20. It is probably the best low spin driver on the market and you can get it in a Project X Black shaft, which is also low spin. Again you probably need a X-Stiff shaft. I am not from Pa. but you should find a local golf shop. They usually have things that the big stores and clubs dont have.

A scam? Really? Just because it's a stupid club that they legally can sell you doesnt make it a scam. I dont like them either but its not a scam. Saying this makes real scams, which happen alot with golf, look pointless.

They are all great clubs and all do pretty much the same thing. The burners and the S3 max might have stronger lofts, but that might be the only difference. The Nike Pro Cavity probably has the thinnest topline. I know someone who has these and he thinks they are great. They are progressive so they are a little thicker in the long irons and a little smaller in the short irons.

It seems like you have the skills to work the ball, so you probably could work any club. Most new forgiving irons are, like you said, built to go long and straight. The shaft is probably more important to getting trajectory you would like. With the skills you have you would be better off getting a players cavity in the short irons (TM MC, AP2, MP 59) and maybe the burners or S3 in the long irons. You would be doing yourself a disservice having the short irons in such a forgiving club. You could look at Nike VR Pro Combo. They have a small cavity in the 3-5 and a "players" cavity in the 6-PW. I can get the long irons up in the air and flight them down when needed and are surprisingly forgiving. The 6-PW are very workable and also surprisingly forgiving (not as much as burners or S3 of course.) If everything you say about your iron skills are true, you should look into better players irons. At least in the short irons.

I guess what i was referring to was sometimes people say i need a "gi" or "sgi" and they end up limiting themselves to categories either created by the hotlist or MPF. I also dont really like the MPF because something is just not right about it. Ex: R11 iron has 508 and AP2 has 504 and Nike Ignite has 314. MPF is based on playability which doesnt really mean much because R11 and AP2 are completely different clubs and how is an Ignite at 314. Most if not all amatuer players should be basing their decison on forgiveness not playability. Your right that it does give you a rough estimate of clubs to test out. I just think going to a demo day or golf store and hitting every club that catches your eye is the best way to make sure you have the right club whether it is in a "gi" "sgi" or "players" category. I just got new clubs a month ago and did all the research in the world to figure out what is best. Im glad i didnt loook at the MPF before i bought them because that would probably have turned me away from alot of clubs. Everyone was telling me, based on what i told them about my ball striking, that i should get G20 or AP1, but i dont like those big chunky clubs. So i just hit every club that looked and felt good. I had an idea of what i wanted based on internet research, then at my demo day i narrowed it down to 3 sets and would have been happy with either of them. I didnt pay attention to categories or ratings and just hit what i wanted. You might not be ready for a less forgiving "gi" club or "players" club, but dont exclude them just because people on here(including me) tell you not to. The most important thing you can do is find a set that has long irons that are forgiving or hybrids. You should give a good look at the Mizuno MP 53, they have a full cavity in the 3-6 and a smaller cavity 7-PW. These are perfect for a transitioning player.

It depends on the condition of both (grips, grooves, scratches). In general they are pretty much the same club. The burners are black and probably would wear a little faster. Also the burners lofts are probably a little stronger, but im not 100% on that one. Its probably a pretty even trade but i wouldnt just trade my clubs unless i didnt like them. If you like the callaways better then you should do it, but if you think they are the same, dont bother with the switch.

I am not a big fan of the terms "sgi" and "gi" because there is not really a difference and there is no standard for what "sgi" and "gi" are. My philosophy for clubs is that anybody CAN hit any club but NOT everyone SHOULD hit any club. It seems like you like AP1 and those are very easy to hit and are very good clubs. However, there is no club that will make you more consistent. Usually clubs that are easier to hit just mask problems like hitting off the toe. When you go to the range and it balls you think you will be hitting them good but you are really hitting them off the toe or something like that. I like my Nike's because i know when i dont hit the center of the club and it is a sign for me to change something. I am sure there are people who will disagree with me but hitting "gi" clubs like AP1 will have good results but could mask some minor problems. Again there is nothing wrong with AP1 or any other "gi" club, but if you really want to be a better ball striker, you should look for a forged cavity back such as Mizuno MP 53, MP 59 or Ping i20. Also make sure you get a set that has long irons that are easier to hit. Anyone can hit a blade 8 iron but long irons should have a cavity or even a hybrid. Go to a demo day and hit some clubs that you think are out of your range and you will be shocked how easy to hit and forgiving they are. Its why i chose my Nikes over some other "gi" clubs.

What do you mean by transition? AP1 is a great club but i dont think you would be transitioning to anything you would just be getting a club thats really easy to hit. If you want to transition to a better players iron you could try AP2 or even a combo of AP1 and AP2. I always suggest Nike Pro Combo CB which has a pocket cavity in the long irons and a smaller cavity in the 6-pw. I am a 13 hcp and have no problem hitting these. Also if you get AP1 you should just get the 710, there is really no difference from the 712 and it will be cheaper. And like you said, get fitted for shafts, loft, lie, etc.

X 22 is probably one of the safest choices you can have with irons. They are easy to hit and usually on the cheaper side. They wont feel like blades but they are solid clubs. If your looking for more of a "players" club but still want forgiveness, you have to look at Nike Pro Combos. I am a 13 hcp and i have no problem hitting these. The long irons have a small cavity that really helps get the ball up in the air. I just got them a month ago and they had a deal where you get a free wedge and $100 additional trade in value. I got $1000 worth of clubs for $720.