jd4vt1998

im usin a 64 14 right now from the sand. works well when your close.

I'm in Myrtle Beach on vacation this week, and yesterday I was playing at the Wicked Stick golf club in Surfside. At the Pro shop, I bought a brand new box of 20xi's for only $30. Pro V1's were $58 a box. Penta's and Hex's were at $35 a box. I have no clue why anyone would pay almost double for the same ball, but that's name recognition for you. Anyways, I just wanted to know if anyone had any idea why this was?

Quote: I would highly recommend looking into a hybrid. I like them off the tee better than higher lofted fairway woods. .... well depends how well you hit that hybrid... Just pick a club you hit straight but a hybrid would be good because of the shorter shaft, i.e. a lot easier to control.

That's not a bad idea, but I play from the members tees at my home course and there's only one dogleg you can drive through completely. Quote: On doglegs, I shoot the distance to the rough if I would blow the ball straight through the dogleg. Then I select a club that will land me short of that in case it happens.

Sounds like the balls that shatter when you hit them or the ones that roll a little then explode. Those would be hilarious until someone got you unnoticingly. Of course, if I start my backswing and mid shot notice that the ball isn't the one I want to hit, I always hit a terrible shot anyways...

Oh yeah and if you are as new to the game as you say, you will DEFINITELY want to get a 3 wood designed for more inexperienced players or a 4 or 5 wood which will make it easier for you to get the ball off the ground. And do you know if your 909 comp is more of a tour model? because if it is, then that might be part of your problem since you're hitting a club designed to be less forgiving... but it can be done... my first driver was a Callaway 460 x tour model that I learned to hit 250+ every time... until I snapped the head off on the range.

I use a 3 wood alot on holes with doglegs that don't appreciate my jack nicklaus-esque power fade but I just read something in golf digest about 4 woods being better than 3 woods especially off the tee do to the fact they cause more roll... but your best bet is most likely to go get fitted and find a club that you like and can hit without much turn in its ballflight.

I have an old Macgregor Jack Nicklaus 3 wood. How much is a club like that worth? To my knowledge everything is original. I'm doing some research and trying to find the year and model. I believe it is persimmon and not laminated maple because it has black stripes in the wood under the finish. So what's a rough estimate on how much it would be worth? P.s. its in fairly good condition, no rust or chips. only some paint wear on the bottom of the metal insert.

Quote: I like a little bit of a cross...I play forged (I like forged feel) and I used to have a set of TaylorMade rac LT irons and they are skinny (features like blade) but yet they had a little cavity. They had a great feel when struck well. Right now I am playing a set of Ping i3 O-Size which I got from my uncle and they are more of a cavity back. The Ping's are more forgiving Yeah that's about how my dad feels about his cleveland Ta2's. Which are the clubs he used when he quit using Mp14s.

I'm sure this has been hashed out a million times on here, but if you were to have the option, of your perfect set of blades, or your perfect set of super high tech brand new game improvement rocket amping irons, that you had to play with for the rest of your life, which would it be, which do you think is better, and why? For me it would be a brand new set of MP-14s if I could find them. My dad has 3 of them I hit on the range sometimes and nothing feels better than solidly hitting a nice straight shot with those.(this is coming from an avid AP1 player too.)

53!

Today on the range, I snapped the clubhead off my driver... and the worst part was that the clubhead went farther than my ball.

On sunday I came up to the 8th tee box, a par 3 with a 140 yd carry over a lake, I popped my first shot into the water, then I took a drop, and put that one in the water, and then I did it again. And then, on my 4th swing, I hit it low right. The poor cart girl who was just sitting there patiently, probably got a good scare when I broke the glass on her cart. But she wasn't quite dead at least.

You should really listen to your buddies. Unless you've spent hours on the range your not going to break 100 on an easy muni, or even 120 on a harder private course... BUT, that definitely doesn't mean you can't still have a ton of fun with the game. I'm 14 now, but I've been around the game with a Dad who could break par occasionally my entire life. It wasn't until this year that I started to get serious and push myself, but I still go out there and play 18 holes and love it. The hardest thing for some people to do to laugh at themselves, but if you can't do that, you'll probably explode within a week. And if you're playing a municipal course, I don't think the city wants to clean up you're strewn afar extremities.

1. The ball will probably fly lower and shorter for any given loft, compared to a properly fit shaft. 2. The ball may tend to go to the right, or fade side, for right-handed golfers because with a too-stiff shaft the clubface is harder to square (the clubface is more likely to be open at impact, in other words). 3. The shot may feel less solid, more like a mis-hit even if you make contact on the center of the clubface. And, you'll have more of those painful vibrations if you hit fat or way behind.

Well, I'm kind of a dick sometimes in that, I won't talk if you beat me, but as soon as I get in the lead you won't hear the end of it.(too bad this doesn't happen that often )

I absolutely can't stand when you get paired up with an unsocial quiet type. The whole round they just walk with you minding their own business, and they always have a weird smile on their face. Creepy.

I'll try that next time, thanks!

After swinging at about 500 balls on the range today, I ended up with a couple nasty blisters on my glove hand. Is there any way I can avoid this next time I have a serious practice session?

thanks! I'm using a few season old set of AP1's and just wanted to know the difference.

Quote: BTW, what kind of stake was it? It was a plastic one used to mark off where the carts can and can't go.

I'm amazed that there are any other soccer fans here! but that's what I was pretty much thinking as well.

well that sucks. Technically, you could say I was playing a match against him. What would the ruling be in that case?

What is the difference between AP1's and AP2's?