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ldehtiar

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About ldehtiar

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    Grand Rapids, MI

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  • Index: 16
  • Plays: Righty

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  1. ldehtiar

    ldehtiar

  2. You could "test drive" either the 5w or 2h from Bridgestone here: http://testdrive.bridgestonegolf.com/
  3. I agree with you completely that this segment was a mess. Your conclusion that ball position is the primary influence of dynamic loft is spot on. I don't know why he was bothering with the shaft plane stuff. I think the biggest point of confusion was due to the difference between the target line and the swing path. In my opinion, swing path and the position of the club face relative to it are all you need to understand in order to move the ball left and right. I think that is where this gets goofy: "To hit a playbable draw, the face needs to be pointing RIGHT of the target at impact. Michael gets it RIGHT in drawing his X on the LEFT half of the golf ball, but gets the "closed face" part wrong. He'll make this mistake later on as well in a confusing way." Yes, the face needs to be pointing right of the target at impact to allow the ball to start to the right, and contact the ball on the left half, relative to the target. The club face needs to be closed relative to the SWING PATH to generate the counter-clockwise spin necessary to produce a draw. I think my biggest complaint with the show is the lack of good visuals. He will try to draw a circle on that tv 4 times before he gets an egg he can live with. Why not have somebody work up a proper drawing prior to the show so that it looks like it should? Here is mine:
  4. That's the idea. I don't know if "stopping power" is the best term, but I had to make something up. The number in the "value" column also corresponds to the size of the circles in the chart, in case that wasn't clear.
  5. I was looking to play a ball that held the greens better than the economy balls I had been playing, but I wanted to know what I had to spend to get the performance I was looking for. I extracted the data from Golf Digest’s golf ball spin chart (May 2012) and added in the cost for each ball. I know GD separated them into 3 categories, but I didn’t really agree with the way they broke them up. Also, I wanted to get a good grasp of the value of each ball relative to its "stopping power" and cost. Here is what I came up with: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AvliI7Zi1OjYdDFoc19DWGd4bWZvU2REUzg3SFp3M1E Now, this is in no way a scientific assessment. I explain the calculations I made on the spreadsheet and why. You are welcome to save a copy of the sheet for yourself and play with the numbers as you see fit. Also keep in mind that “value” in this case is only relative to how much "stopping power" a ball has. Distance, side spin reduction and feel do not weigh into it. To be clear, I am not suggesting that you should use this exclusively to select which ball to play. I was looking for a ball with more spin, so that is how the sheet is set up. Anyway, I hope this is helpful or at least interesting to some of you.
  6. I just went through this same decision a few weeks ago. I ended up selecting the CG16s because they made my final list and were offering a $200 instant rebate on an 8 club set. Here is a link to the rebate info: http://shop.pgatour.com/promotions/cleveland/c_oid-546.aspx (I didn't buy them here, just an example of the rebate language.) Keep in mind that these clubs have stronger lofts than most. My shop let me drop the 3 and 4 irons and substitute the CG16 wedges instead. I am not sure that meets the rebate wording, but they were able to do it for me. I already had 52 deg and 56 deg wedges in my bag, so I added the 48 deg and 60 deg to get to 8 clubs for the full rebate. It worked out great for me.
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