cm70056

I used Shipsticks.com and it was extremely pleasant. After you setup your trip, put the dates in ship sticks to get costs and delivery dates. After that, all I had to do was print the ship sticks provided shipping labels and have my clubs boxed. Ship sticks schedules a delivery pickup (or you can drop-off at many locations) both ways. I think I paid about $75 total for shipping to and from for my vacation from Illinois to Phoenix, AZ I highly recommend them

I appreciate the input from everyone. Thank you for the help.

Hello all! After about a year's worth of research I have decided that I want to construct my own putting green at home using Pencross bentgrass. I have decided to do this because I have recently had a new baby daughter and I am not able to get to the course 2-3 times a week for 4-5 hours like I used to. I do not see that changing for the next few years. Between my daughter and my job, it is getting more difficult to get golf in. I believe I have found a good solution by building a putting green at home with a chipping area. I firmly believe that if I can just get outside a few nights a week and practice some short game for an hour....my itch will be satisfied until I can get out for my round on the weekend. You might be thinking, heck a putting green is going to to take up more time per week maintaining it than playing a round of golf. Maybe true.....but the way I see it is, at least I will be at home in the yard and can have my daughter outside with me and spend time together. I plan to start small. I have a great spot available in the side yard that will make a perfect home for a 15' diameter green. Here's where my question starts. I know in Illinois the best time for seeding new grass is when the weather is consistently 75-80 degrees. Realistically that means my ideal time to sowe is going to be mid-September. I do not think I will be able to buy a good reel mower until this winter. What kind of trouble can I get in if I plant in September and can't mow to what we would consider a greens-height until next spring when I have the reel mower? I was wondering if I can plant this fall, mow with my regular push mower at the lowest setting, and then come in and spring and cut to about 3/16?" Please do not lecture me on putting in a synthetic green or "you don't know what you're getting into - it's so much hard work." I like yard work and I have a genuine interest in Agronomy. Not to mention I think it will be a beautiful addition to the home when complete. I just have a unique question that I have not been able to find a specific answer for.

Picked up a dozen of these a couple weeks ago and thought I would share my experience with them. I have currently been gaming the Q-Star most of the year with great results. I bought these because I was intrigued by the marketing from Wilson being "long and soft." I paid less than $20 for the dozen with hopes of finding a new ball in the $20-25 range. I took the balls to the putting green for practice. I was thrilled at the soft feel of the ball while putting and chipping. Spin and bite performance was excellent and very tight. I felt the Wilson had a slight edge in bite performance over the Q-star when chipping & pitching. I was impressed and ready to take the ball to the course. Normally at my home course I can usually hit 70-80% of fairways with the Q-Star driving the ball on on average around 245-255 yards. With the Wilson, I only hit one fairway and it was close to the edge of the rough. Off the tee box, this ball spins a lot! I did not get a straight ball flight on any drive. Most balls had significant pull draws that I could not control. I would consider my "normal" drive a baby 10yd push-draw. I made a few changes during the round to try and correct the ball flight with the Wilson, but could not minimize the spin enough to be effective. I feel that the cover of these balls are so soft and sticky that they make it difficult to be long and straight off the tee box. From around 150 yards and in, the balls played well, but were a little too soft feeling on the face of my Mizuno MP-54s for my liking. I did not get good feedback on my iron strikes with this ball. Stopping performance with my irons was good. I have suffered with these balls through 3 rounds, with the only negative impact still being very inconsistent driving. My scores have been higher by 2-3 strokes a round because of missing so many fairways. I retired these balls and went back to my Q-Stars. Driving returned to normal accuracy and my scores did the same. In my opinion, the Q-Stars are extremely tough to beat for the price and the Wilson's just weren't the ball for me. Summary Positive: Great soft feel on and around the green Decent/good stopping performance with irons Price Good looking ball Summary Negative: Poor feedback on irons due to softness High-spinning makes driving extremely difficult (in my situation)

Awesome! Being a Manufacturing Engineer, I love the behind the scenes look of manufacturing facilities. I see Ping has implemented a lot of MES Systems and mistake-proofing procedures to help with quality and delivery.

Got to meet Wes Roach and Ricky Barnes at work on Wednesday. Pretty cool guys got to sit down and talk for about 45 minutes. Wes had a good round Thursday.

Thank you for the advice. I will try that next time at the range.

I've been Playing Golf for: 2.5 years My current handicap index or average score is: 9.4 My typical ball flight is: Baby-Fade The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Pull and Straight-Draw Videos:

Since the driver is physically the longest club in most bags, it's going to be the hardest to hit if you have swing flaws. Since the club is longer, any small flaws in your swing mechanics are more dramatic because the head gets further out of line. Try to make sure you are keeping your arms in that nice "V" shape and concentrate on your swing path. To do this, you are going to have to slow your swing speed down. Make sure the club head is square at impact and you aren't on an out-to-in plane (cutting across) when coming across the ball. I used to have the same problem, but I am much happier with a 250-260 yard drive that finds the fairways 80% of the times vs. crushing a drive 280ish and only hitting a couple fairways a round. My instructor gave me some really good advice once that stuck with me. On the range, hit balls with your driver, but only take the back swing back about 2 feet. Do this very slowly and then accelerate through the ball. Try to imagine you are "pushing" the ball off the tee with a square face instead of hitting it off the tee. The ball needs to be flying straight. If it isn't, you are breaking your wrists on the backswing and not getting them back before contact. This drill is going to train your wrists and muscles what position they need to get to before contact. After you've mastered this from 2 feet, keep taking the club back further and further until you are back to around a 3/4 swing. Anytime I start to see flaws in my driving, I go back to the range and hit hundreds of balls using this technique. Regarding the balls, there are higher spinning balls out that may amplify your swing problem, but the root cause is the swing.

The most important question is.....if you don't spend the money on fitted clubs, are you constantly going to be wondering if your game is lacking because you don't have "properly" fitted clubs? For me, the extra money seemed worth it because I could take the clubs out of the equation. I knew I had been fitted properly, so now I know if I get a bad result, it's because I made a bad swing. I spent a lot of money and time putting my bag together and since completing it, I have yet to wonder if I've got the right clubs in my bag. When I first started golfing with lower-grade equipment, I was constantly blaming the clubs because I had that doubt in my head that better/fitted clubs would help me improve. They have, but I firmly believe a lot of my improvement is because I'm not worrying about proper clubs anymore. Just focusing on making good swings and proper technique.

I played with my settings almost every time I went to the course for the first month I had the driver. After that, I found that I had the best average results at 10.5 degrees and I haven't changed the loft in over a year. I loved the idea at first, being able to dial in the loft to match every hole distance, but for the average handicap player who is already hitting inconstant distances, it basically negates the purpose of the adjustable loft. From my testing, I just didn't see much difference from 11-2.5 degrees of adjustments when I am getting a difference of +/- 20-25 yards on a non-changing loft setting. When I am through with this driver, I wouldn't hesitate to go back to a non-adjustable driver (that is, if any of the OEMs are still making any non-adjustables!)

I am always paranoid of losing clubs. I try to make a conscious effort of counting all 14 clubs every 3-4 holes. That way if I do forget one, I don't have to back track very far to try and find it, and it reduces the amount of groups behind me who may have come across it.

I have made the switch to Pro V1s this year and have been experimenting. I started off buying OEM Pro V1s and obviously I got the best balls with this. I then began experimenting with X-outs and refurbished balls. I could definitely notice a difference when comparing the OEM ball to a refurbished ball. The refurbished ball just does not have the some consistency from ball to ball. I am sure that this is because you are not getting the same year, model, or run of ball like your getting in the OEM package. The refurbished balls gave me a bad impression and it only took 1 dozen to decide I wouldn't buy them again. I then switched to the OEM X-Outs and had pretty good results. I have bought 4 dozen X-Outs so far and I only found 1 tiny paint imperfection on 2-3 balls. Most of the balls could pass as brand new mint condition. The X-Outs played very well for me and are very consistent. My only complaint with the X-Outs is I'm never sure what's going to be in the sleeves. I have gotten Pro V1 and Pro V1X. I prefer to play a Pro V1 over the V1X and feel I have noticeably different results with each ball, so I am thinking about just sticking with the OEM packages of Pro V1. I may continue with the X-Outs since they are usually less than $30, but only for practice rounds. When I am playing a serious round, I ALWAYS want to put an OEM Pro V1 in play.

Ernest, I warm up with both my SW and gap wedges, while doing so, I am trying to get a feel for how firm the ground is that day. My SW loft is 50, same as my 50 gap wedge, but i've got significantly different degrees of bounce between these two clubs. Whichever club is suiting the ground conditions better on that particular play will be the club I leave in the bag to play with (usually i just always carry 15 clubs because I don't play competitively and my playing partners don't care) Sometimes I am amazed at how much difference I can get between the two different bounces depending on the ground condition.