golfire6

I have a Pat Perez black boxing glove on my driver , a stock Nickent on my 4 wood , and stock Hogan covers on my hybrids . Same goes for the stock cover on my mallet putter , but I'm sure I will find something to replace the putter cover eventually ... -- K.

A great site to look at to determine the lofts of your current ( or prospective ) clubs : http://www.golfclubspec.com/ Enjoy ! -- K.

Three words for you : DEMO DEMO DEMO ! It's really difficult to give you a definite answer on here for a question like this . A lot depends on how you currently shape the ball , whether you like to hit irons or woods , and whether you are most content with steel or graphite shafts . For me , while I like hitting woods , I prefer to hit irons for accuracy and angle of approach into a green . I also find it easier to get fitted into a steel shaft rather than graphite . You have to determine what works for you BEFORE you pull the trigger on a purchase , not after ... -- K.

My current PW is 48* , but it makes it tough for me to look at new iron sets where the 9 iron is so strong that it would leave a sizable gap between clubs . I have a 43* 9 iron now but there are definitely stronger ones out there currently . -- K.

Actually , the shorter hitter you are , the more 200 yard shots you may be looking at in a round , depending on which tees you end up playing from ... -- K.

Ben Hogan suggested opening one's stance as a way of altering the distance of a wedge shot . You maintain the feeling of a full shot but you end up making a shorter swing . The more your body gets in the way as you open your stance , the shorter your shot will travel . It takes some practice to get a feel for it , but it works very well IMO ... -- K.

Most balls on greens stop because of the angle of descent , not due to spin . Spin has an effect to be sure , but it's a secondary factor to the angle of descent . That being said , one of the most effective ways to get the ball to "bite" more quickly is to ensure that you are not delofting the club too much at the point of impact . To guard against this , try moving the ball slightly ahead in your stance . You still want to have the feel of a descending blow , but not quite as much as a normal shot . Then make sure you swing thru to a full , high finish . Think of more of an "arms"-finish rather than a body finish . This assures that you maximize the loft used in the shot . -- K.

I think that your level of success may depend on where you are starting from in the first place . I think it is possible if you truly apply yourself , but few of us have that much time to dedicate to the sport . -- K.

I think you're asking a lot to get one club to replace 3 in the high end of the bag . I'd look into getting at least two and possibly three hybrids . You might be better served by dropping a wedge and going with ~ 6 degrees gaps at the bottom of the bag . IMO it's far easier to make a partial wedge swing than a partial swing in a club that requires a lot of swing speed to get it to work properly . Hope it helps ... -- K.

Here's an option that is different from what the rest have posted . Try the Apollo Hump shafts in an S flex . The reason I recommend these shafts is that I use these and my avg driver SS is ~115 , with a high of ~120+ ( launch monitor ) . I also play extended length shafts ( I'm 6'5" ) . Seeing that you play Maltby irons right now , the Apollos would work since they are .370 parallel tips . They are a VERY different shaft . They are a fairly smooth shaft for a stronger swinger , yet they are difficult shafts to overpower due to their unique tip design . Pick one up and reshaft one club with one and try it out . Good Luck ... -- K.