oct411

Your nonsense is getting boring and I am bored of messing with your head. lol. yawn... zzz... Not even going to bother responding to anything you have to say. Too boring... You're ignored. Thanks. Sorry. No, the main factor in maximizing distance in driving is swing speed at impact, the kind of golf ball you use, and the ball need to be hit on the sweet spot of the driver head and the shot must be taking a straight or slightly draw flight depending on where it's aimed. Not launch angle or spin rate, those affects are minimal. All modern driver head are produce to create minimal spin for maximum distance, regardless of loft. You can also adjust those depending on where you hit on the club face. FYI, 1 or 2 degrees difference (example 8.5 or 9.5) in driver loft does not make that much difference, it only promote very slight lower or higher initial launch repectively. The shaft being used actually has greater effect on overall flight path than the loft of the driver. The GD YS-6+ shaft is like an Aldila NV 65 which is a light weight shaft that promotes med to high launch and has good feel feedback as with all the GD YS+ shafts. It's made for smooth/med swing speed players. Don't know much about the Accuflex shaft. The Grafalloy comes in 65 or 85. You're talking about the 65 version it's similar to Aldila's new VS shafts with nanotube in the resin system which produces a lighter weight but still is a strong shaft. So it's lighter but yet plays as strong as previous models like the popular Grafalloy Blue. As with any shaft, you need to know what weight you would like to swing with in your driver and woods. They come in 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, 100s gram classes. As the shaft gets heavier they are lower in torque (resistence in shaft twisting) depending on which brand and models torque difference varies. As the shafts gets heavier they also have a lower launch trajectory. 50s gram class shafts = high launch trajectory and for slow swing tempo 60s gram class shafts = med/high launch trajectory and for smooth/med swing tempo 70s/80s gram class shafts = med/low launch trajectory and for med/fast swing tempo 90s/100s gram class shafts = low launch trajectory and for fast swing tempo To pick the right shaft in the weight class you perfer in your wood and driver you should try out different brands as they all feel different because they are all made different. I would recommand Aldila, Fujikura, GD, UST, those are my top brands, there are other brands like Grafalloy, Mitsubishi etc... Also you need to differentiate what models within a brand and in the same weight classes are for high-performerance/tour while some are more for the regular joe. For example the Aldila NV and VS are more high performance vs the Aldila NVS while the Aldila VX/VL are cheap value shafts. http://www.aldila.com/product14.html Another example would be that Fujikura put their different shafts in 4 different categories (E, T, M, and Classics) E is for the masses, T are high performance tour shafts and most are tour proven, M is the Taylor Made models made exclusively for TM, Classics are the Pro Vista and Pro Tour shafts that Fujikura used/test since 2000 to develope their current line... You can always check the lastest driver shafts at titleist.com http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...bhcp=1#pagebot Most of the shafts there are high/performance except a few... GL find the shaft that best fit you and your swing and preference in your driver and woods, as I have already found my. I still have this feeling that some of the bored a55e5 on this forum is going to trip about this post, even though it has nothing to do with them and it talks about something they don't know much about... rofl, I guess it's just their annoying nature to do so and they don't like looking dumb and seeing someone else talk about something they don't know. alot of jealousy... lol...

How about we just move on? lol Anyone else have played the 906F2 please share your thoughts, love to hear them good or bad, thanks.

Don't go with a Hi-bore, I heard it's unforgiving compare to other driver heads out there. I would go with TM 425, TM 460, Titleist 905R or Ping G5. TM usually don't have alot of exotic shaft options but their own shafts though. UST Proforce V2 75 shaft is ok, a poorman's version of the Real Speeder 757. The V2 feels hollow and is lighter, less dense than the 757. The 757 and V2 75 are more of a dead/firm feeling shaft, if you like that go for it. I wouldn't recommand the 757 since it's for heavy hitters... If you like more feedback and feel, go with the Aldila NV 75 or GD YS-7+ GL. Again check the shaft option here: http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...hash=1#pagebot

That makes alot of sense... Blah Blah Blah... Hmm... That's why 80% of top PGA Pro players including the best, Tiger Woods, used Driver lofts 9.5 or lower and 75g or heavier X-Stiff shafts on their driver which all promotes a lower ball launch and flight...

Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us buddy. This guy cracks me UP!!! You know that 61.40% of the member voted "No way steel is superior" ? According to you, I guess we're not only not entitled to our opinion, we are ALL wrong too for having one. Majority doesn't win here, I am beginning to think this forum is run by a Nazi...

That was not an advice It was an opinion, a point of view. That's the essentiality of a online forum, to have your own opinion, thanks. What a shame, I thought that you would know that by now after what, let see... 4,883 posts? The truth is that, I can care less if you agree or disagree to ANY of my opinion. If you like to spend $400+ to reshaft your irons to Graphite shafts or buy a new irons set with Graphite shafts and pay $200 or $300 more than the steel shaft version, GO RIGHT AHEAD BUDDY Waste your money, it's not my money. Like I have said. I do just fine with 15+ yr old original ZZ-lite steel shafts in my Ping Eye 2... FYI I paid less than $200 for the set and it probably plays better than 90% of the iron sets the members own on here Wait wait, are you going to rip on my old ass Ping Eye 2 irons next??? lol... 2Pac Babe, West Coast Babe, Thug Life!!! All eyez on ME! Oh my eyes are on you, to see if there are any useful information here, if at all that is...

Hello, to anyone that has experienced or owned the newly release Titleist 906F2 fairway woods I would like to hear what you think of it good or bad! Also let us know what shaft you have on the Titleist 906F2. If you have also play with the Titleist 904F, how does the 906F2 compare to the 904F? It is better or worst? I'm in the market to pick up a 906F2, but would love to hear about what thoughts people have after playing them first. Thanks alot for any info

Sorry, didn't know you are 48 and have elbow and wrist problems, if I were you I probably get the some thing too... Just glad I'm still young playing and enjoying this game. Yea I explained earlier that golfers that are healthy and in the age of 18-45 should be using steel shafts in irons, they are cheaper, works just fine and most stock shafts on brand name irons are steel, unless you go to the local Wal-Mart and buy a set that's $199 or less they often have cheap graphite shaft for the whole set ROFL!!! And if you can't swing a golf club more than likely you will break one of these at the hosel within a few outings to the range... I have seen tons of people do that before. Nice graphite shaft ehh? As for the more expensive graphite iron shafts, I don't doubt they work good or as good as DGS or Rifles. As they say, you get what you paid for and that's alot of $$$ for iron shafts. The disadvantage here is cost, again most of us aren't pros that gets sh1t for free and steel is just as good as graphite so why bother? Cheers

ROFL!!! You must be very special to have those aren't you? How far are you hitting with those in your irons? And if you perfer those on your irons what is so great about them as compare to steel shaft like DGS or Rifles? I have no doubt everyone on this forum would love to know the answers. So let us know

Agreed, but I still don't know what the hell you are talking about... ROFL!!! Goto Garfalloy's website and look under iron shafts, there are only: http://www.grafalloy.com/grafalloy/products.asp Prologic 3.8 - 3.0 torque ProLaunch 3.3 torque ProLite 3.3 torque No Blue. I'll stick to my steel shaft and you to your w/e Garfalloy blue crap

lol... I have no idead what the hell you are talking about... I SAID whether or not you use steel shaft or graphite shaft on your irons doesn't matter much in distance. (i.e. even if some new bad ass techno advance graphite shaft was developed for irons you wouldn't want more distance on your irons because each iron is used for a specific distance and steel shafts serves its intented purpose just fine, not like a driver or wood that's used to gain more distance which is perfect for graphite shaft, that's why graphite shafts company started poping up in the 1990's and Pros started to use them in driver and woods.) FYI only recently in 2003 did Tiger Woods switch from steel to graphite shaft on his driver and alot of PGA Pros still play TT or Rifles steel shaft on their woods. The comment I made about using my old set of Ping Eye 2 is to say that the old TT Stiff ZZ-lite steel shafts that are 15+ yrs old are still doing it's intent job just fine, now why would I go with graphite shaft on my irons when clearly there isn't a need for it? In regards to torque and control, the original TT Stiff ZZ-lite steel shafts on my Ping Eye 2s irons are Weight: 115.0g Torque: 1.9, they only hit slightly higher than TT DGS S300. READ: http://community.pinggolf.com/commun...owledge_id=431 And your Grafalloy blue shaft probably on your driver has: 2.8 torque and a weight of only 63g CHECK: http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...hash=1#pagebot If John Daly and Rich Beem plays graphite shafts on their irons that's great for them, but I have no problems using 15+ yr old steel shaft on my irons, it serves its purpose just fine. It's a matter of choice and I don't see in the near future that graphite shafts are going to replace steel shafts on irons, more over steel shafts are cheaper for everyone and us common folks that pays for their golf clubs. Cheers!

What I meant by "junk" is a figure of speech and is obvious. The NVS 55 or 65 is meant for slow and at most med swing speed players respectively. Ask anyone knowledgeable with these shafts or Aldila themselves if you don't believe my words as I have already said it once. It's call marketing. Matching lower performance stock shafts with thier drivers makes a bigger market for thier driver to the masses. Personally I think it's kind of weak. I don't bother posting something on a forum if it's uselss information. It's not my style. Of course not, but most better players would not touch those shafts. Those shafts are meant for slower swing players. What I am saying is that if you are serious about golf then it is best for you to buy a driver with shaft that you can grow into... Even my GF that has a lesser swing can hit my X-Stiff driver and wood with out problem or lost of distance, that says alot lol... GAS CAN owns or works at a golf shop and he thinks he knows alot about all golf products... Granted from his posts I think he knows about trimming and fitting clubs "the labor part". But I know for a fact he doesn't know alot about shafts... In particular performance shafts that are widely used on the PGA Tour. It's the shaft that Phil plays on his FT3. It's also $400 retail. From GD's site: "The low trajectory and torque of this shaft lend towards play by better players with an extremely fast swing speed and quick tempo." The post was about hitting higher, this shaft would not fit the bill in hitting higher or price wise or availability as it is more of a Prototype tour shaft available to tour players. For the same performance I would take any of the other shafts I have already pointed out in the previous post. They are readily available and tour proven and used on tour plus you can grow into them. I never said their product is phony overall. I said by them using weak shafts as the stock shaft is phony. I said and I am sure the FT3 driver head is decent or good as I have never use it. If it was a total phony driver head + the weaker stock shaft, Callaway would be out of business... lol. I had a FT3 BB 3 wood with NVS 55 that retails for $299 which I only paid $110 for on eBay, I can tell you it's a wood for NOOBs. I sold it fast back on eBay for $150+ once I hit it a few times. I think it's "phony" for Callaway to charge $299 on a 3 wood with a crapy shaft like the NVS 55. My conclusion is that Callaway with this kind of marketing is targeting old man or NOOBs. Yes I do see on the range and course that most new Callaway product buyers are old man and NOOBs... It fits them LOL! For instance, look at your drivers: Callaway FT3 Tour 9.5° (Matrix Ozik) Cleveland HiBORE 9.5° (UST V2) TaylorMade R7 425° 10.5 (Harrison Mugen) Although 2 of them have older and less known shafts on them, do you see a NVS 55 or NVS 65 on them??? After hitting the shafts you have on your driver, I doubt you will ever go back to hitting a NVS 55 or NVS 65 or even a NV 55 or NV 65 or any other shafts in that class. (The NV 65s or NV 65x at most is a shaft for a LPGA tour player. FYI that's what Paula Creamer plays with in her Pink Aldila shaft. If you are a man in the age of 18-45, I think you can do better than that in your driver if you are anyway serious about golf or have a decent swing...) I rest my case...

Going back to the original question on this thread, you shouldn't be hitting low shots with an Aldila NVS 65s paired with a 9.5 FT3. As I have said NVS in particular NVS 55 and 65 promotes high launch read form Aldila's site: "The Aldila NVS features the same unmatched performance and incredible feel of the original NV, with a higher launch. While the NV is a tip-stiff, low launch shaft, the NVS features a more responsive tip for those seeking a higher ball fight." http://www.aldila.com/product15.html You said you use to hit your FT3 high but lately you been hitting low shots, this means your swing path has changed from before and probably for the better as long as you didn't lose distance. Like I have said you can work a ball high or low with a 9.5* driver and you are probably hitting the ball a little on the bottom of the sweet spot as oppose to the top of it. I see no reason why hitting low isn't good for driving. Most pros perfer to hit their drives low for more control and roll on the fairway. Hitting lower is a good thing. But if you still perfer hitting higher you can go to a 10.5 loft driver and if you like the weight and feel of the NVS 65s and like your driving shots to be high, stick with the NVS 65s or anything in the 60s gram weight class.

Yea someday... It will be a long way trust me and we don't really need it. Again, unless you a senior, lady, or kid. Aldila VS shafts has nanotube tech in it. Retail for about $175 per shaft vs thier NV shaft which is still $99 without nanotube. I don't see any reason for it to cost cheaper to make nanotube shafts in the near future unless they figure a way to manufacture it faster and or cheaper somehow which is unlikely. Just imagine putting $175 shaft in everyone of your irons though rofl... Like I said, a long way and I do just fine with my Ping Eye 2 with 15+ yr old ZZ lite TT shafts on them... 4 iron around 220 yds is pretty good I think, do I need graphite, I don't think so.

When I refered to the NVS as a shaft for "slow swing noobs." It's obvious I was talking about the ones they use in Callaway FT3 driver in particular NVS 55 and NVS 65. Trevor Immelman is like 1% of all Touring Pros lol most 99% of all other PGA Touring Pros that uses Aldila in their driver and woods uses either NV or NV prototype or the new VS. Do some research before you yap thanks. And I know even without looking it up if Trevor Immelman plays a NVS in his T60 3 wood it's at least a NVS 75 or heavier NVS shaft with his swing speed. The only reason he would choose to use that over the NV is he wants a slightly higher launch. I would not recommend NVS 55 or 65 on any driver if you are serious and skilled. Since the wind would just chew your shot up and you have less control on your shot. GL if you want to stick with the NVS and is mainly the reason why you are defending this shaft cause you probably got one in your driver. Get a reshaft thanks lol! Lumping no body to any loft. If you want higher launch with your driver head go 10.5 or higher If you want to control you launch go 9.5 If you want to hit low launch go 8.5 or lower Trust me noob, if you get a 10.5 driver, most likely the stock shaft on it will be setup for high launch reg or stiff flex at most (i.e. you won't be hitting low much with it). If you get a 8.5 or lower driver, most likely the stock shaft will be setup for low launch the shaft will be at least Stiff or better x-stiff. With 9.5, you can go either way, stiff or X-Stiff. FYI, most 80% PGA Pros plays 8.5 or lower on thier drivers and 99% of them play X-Stiff shaft. Wake the f*ck up and do some research you freaking noob... I posted the Titleist driver shaft description page on the post you can at least use it before you yap your ignorant mouth. rofl total useless dumb mofo... http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...Custom#pagebot LOOK IT UP NEXT TIME BEFORE YOU YAP NOOB. YS-7+ IS SOFT/MED BUTT, TIP STIFF the semi-soft butt provides more control than Aldila NV in the similar weight class i.e. NV 75 IS MED BUTT TIP STIFF. READ UP UR SH*T BEFORE YOU ADVISE OTHERS NEXT TIME THANKS NOOB. The only reason why you don't agree with what I posted is cause you are ignorant and don't know jack about shafts. Advising someone to get a GD PM702 rofl!!! have you even try that shaft out yet? NOOB... Just in the last 6 month I have tried every shaft I talk about in my post and I know exactly what each and everyone of them can and can't do. Plus I have research all of the info on web of every Major shaft website. Let me ask you something, have you tried ALL of the shafts you talked about in your 1st post to this thread? AND did you research all of the characteristics of each shaft you have talked about? IF NOT, AND I ALREADY KNOW FROM ALL OF YOUR POST FROM THIS THREAD YOU DO NOT, YOU ARE AN IDIOT THAT'S NOT WORTH ANYONE'S TIME. I only posted to this thread not to persuade anyone on anything but simply explain, from what I have learned and it was alot of info, what are good shafts to check out if you are even a decent skilled golf player with a good swing. You should have thank me for doing all the research for you and I thought about not even bothering to waste my time with this and let people like you waste your time and money on buying sub-par and NOT CHEAP golf equipment made for golf noobs push out by phony companies such as Callaway. Enjoy wasting more time and money on junk, NOOB.

Steel is still better than graphite in irons and will probably always be true. Why? Cause even if you put the most expansive and best performing graphite in irons you still won't get better distance in irons and you don't need to, it's not the purpose of the irons. Unless you are a senior, lady, or kid, graphite might benefit. You can get better distance with graphite in drivers and woods. Moreover it's unnecessary as irons should not hit as far as woods since that's their purpose. So distance is not an issue, and steel has lower torque and better control than graphite anyways.

First I would let you know that the stock Aldila NVS shafts on the FT3 is a junk shaft and according to you swing info it doesn't fit you. It's a higher launch higher torque version of the original NV for slow swing noobs. Check and compare the shaft specs at Aldila http://www.aldila.com/product15.html http://www.aldila.com/product14.html That is one of the main reason I hate Callaway woods and driver, they used noob golf shafts, but I think FT3 is a decent 460 driver head. The best driver heads right now and the most used on Tour are probably, Titleist 905R (905S less but good if you like to hit low), TM 425 (460 less easier to hit) and Ping G5 460 (easy to hit). The TM R7 Quad is still very popular also. As for what loft to choose for the driver head, you should choose lower loft (8.5 or lower) if you like to hit penetrating shots into the wind. Else you can go 9.5 which is an average loft that's good for working it high or low depending on where you hit the ball on the driver head. 10.5 or higher promotes initial high launch. Also you should understand that some driver head are design to launch initially a little higher and some initially a bit lower, example Titleist 905R is 0.5* higher than 905S. So a 905R 8.5* is like a 905S 9.0* With regard to spin, the bigger the driver heads the more spin it produce, not by much but in small increments of like 100~200 rpm. Most driver heads today are desgin for low spin. Low spin in driving produces more distance. http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...arison#pagebot With your Fast swing tempo and 100-110 swing speed the shaft that would fit you would be: Aldila: NV 65X med swing speed, higher launch, 68g NV 75X med/fast swing speed, med launch, 78g NV 85X fast swing speed, low launch, 88g Here I would go for the NV 75 X it's very solid shaft NV 65 is more of a noob shaft while NV 85 is a bit heavy. You can try to get your hands on the new Aldila VS shafts but those cost $175+ alone and you will need to get a re-shaft. They are made with the newer nanotube technology and lighter weight lower torque than NV. Aldila NV has great feel and feedback. Graphite Design The YS-7+ Similar to the Aldila NV 75, but slightly higher torque at 3.0 but with probably better feel. Fujikura Real 757 Speeder X-Stiff or Stiff not the Titleist version which hits a little less firm and less powerful. That is, if you can handle this shaft. It is very balance and made for a strong hitter but feels very firm and heavy at 79g. Produces low penetrating shots. Real Rombax not the TM version, not available in USA but better than speeder on feel, it's Fujikura's next top tour performance shaft. http://www.fujikuragolf.com/ UST: Proforce V2 75 X-Stiff or Stiff Hit similar to the Fujikura Speeder 757, like a poor man's version of it lol. Promotes low penetrating shots. With it's super low torque of 2.2 it promotes tight shot dispersion and with a weight of 76g promotes easier swing. Those are the driver shafts I would consider for better players with 100-110 swings. If you still have question you can check the shaft description at titleist.com IMO, Titleist has the best and widest shaft selection for thier driver, unlike Callaway and TM. http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/dr...hash=1#pagebot

Go with what tiger woods have, a 56 SW and 60 LW. You can also add a 52 GW if you want and take out one of your long iron in your bag...

Go for the R7 460, it's hella cheap on eBay right now. I saw one sold for less then $175 recently and I have heard that it's easy to hit and straight even on mis-hits. You can look for a stiff flex or if you don't hit far or has a slower swing, get regular flex. But I would go for stiff flex in case your swing and or swing speed improves in the future.

Go get a set of Ping Eye 2, they will make you hit better. lol! I think you are having swing problems, try going to the range and work on your swing to get it consistent again. That would help you.

Sounds like you are swing a little too hard with the driver and maybe topping the ball hitting the bottom face of the driver head and probably need a lower tee or adjust your swing... Also you should not hit the driver more than 15 balls per range session, that would be too much work on your body.

I think you should try to keep your elbows in, but try to do a take away path that is straight/square from the ball in the impact zone and come down on that same path through the ball in the impact zone, which is not too much in-out or out-in, given your grip setup was good from beginning.

I think the first thing you should do is to sell that Driver on eBay since it's a wimpy regular shaft. Go get at least a stiff shaft driver (a titileist or tm since it looks like your other clubs are one of those brand, tm are more expansive) with 67g+ or better on eBay with the money. You can even get rid of your 3 wood since it has a steel shaft and get a stiff graphite shaft that can get you more distance. Then practice your long game in regards to distance and accuracy by hitting the driver and 3 wood until you have confidence with them. If you already have good game with your irons, and short game (wedges and putting) then you have a more complete game with an improved long game you will be able to get to the hole faster and easier on par 4 and 5s. If you are going to just play once a week, I don't think it would be easy to improve fast or improve at all. I think most people should play/practice at least 3 times a week to get any improvement on their game, what ever they are working on driver/woods, irons, wedge, putting... But to start, you need to sell the driver and 3 wood and go kick some ass with your long game and show your friends what a bad ass you are...

I'm right-handed golf. When you say the weak or weaker position in girp/hand/fingers what do you mean? Do you mean my fingers are towards the left of the grip or right? Are you talking about my left hand or right hand? I figure that the weak is towards the left (front of the shaft) of the girp and strong is towards the right or inside for the left hand and back side for the right hand on the grip if you align it to the club head. As with Flex, I have 2 drivers right now that I use, Titleist 9.5 983k stock Fujikura Speeder shaft Stiff flex (use mainly by my GF now) and Bridgestone J33R 8.5 420cc Fujikura Speeder 757 real tour spec X flex. I get a normal flight with the 983k/stock stiff, while I get a lower penatrating flight with the J33R since it's 8.5 and with a real low torque Shaft in X the lower flight is expected. The Real 757 Speeder plays stiffer and it's a little heavier than stiff (2g). I still have slicing problems and had not fully figure out what is causing it although I did have better hits trying the girps they have mention above. I had a few awesome hit with the J33R one down the middle so straight and so fast like a bullet that hit at around 275-300, I couldn't see where is landed as it zoom past the fence at the back of the range in less than 1~2 second. That shot was all feel, as I had no tension in my hands and I feel my backswing slowly to the top and down and let it have it on the impact zone. That's enough to convince me I can hit X-Flex without a problem, now I just need to figure out what cause my slices and fades (even if I fade 10 or 20 yards on my drives, I am not happy)...

lol... I can't hit worth sh*t with stiff... Can forget about wimpy regular... Brought a Callaway BB Fusion 3 wood with weak a** Aldila NVS-55 stiff shaft, retails $299, which I got for $110 on ebay. Sold it quick on eBay for $150+ since the only time I can hit it is to slow my swing down dramatically to a old man swing. I also started with a 3 wood clone that had generic Aldila shaft stiff shaft (probably cost less then $20 for that shaft) and I paid $72 for that club. Never buy a clone club again since I can get brand name woods/driver with good brand name shafts for about the same on eBay. Regular and most stiff shafts especially 60g or lower in weight are for slow to medium swing speed players (seniors, ladies and smooth weak swingers) for wood/driver. Now I don't even touch that clone club and can't sell it on eBay since it's a clone... If you have the swing speed always at least go for stiff or X and at the very least a Aldila NV-65 stiff, even my GF plays stiff and can hit my X woods, as she has a good speed and a more natural swing than mine. There is a reason most all Pros and even the older Pro players play with X in their woods and drivers and when you watch them, they do not swing any faster than most health golfers that are in the ages of 16-45. I would say don't be afraid to use X in wood/driver if you aren't a old man, a girl with weak upper body strength, younger than 16 or older than 50 beginners. Better yet if you can hit a driver over 250+ yds always choose X flex for your wood/driver shafts, because obviously you have the swing speed to use X-flex. With regards to shaft weight I would say use what ever that's more comfortable to you, if you can only handle anything below 60g, it probably won't be good for you to get X. Regarding a shaft's torque, it all depends on how high you want your ball flight to go. Lower torque (below 3.0) = lower flight and more control, higher torque (equal or greater than 3.5) = higher flight and less control. FYI, increase in shaft weight = decrease in shaft torque on a particular shaft brand/model. Slicing/Hooking is not a flex issue, it's a swing issue and in particular errors in the downswing, which is probably the hardest thing to figure out and correct if you have a complicated downswing.