JPBayern

I agree completely with the statements given here before mine; a hybrid is definitely the way to go. Similarly, I have a difficult time making consistent shots with my three iron. Some of the time I don't make good contact, other times I blast it 200 yards; usually the prior. To correct this I picked up the Taylormade Burner Rescue 21* 3 Hybrid and I to this day think it was one of the best purchases I've made yet. It swings much like an iron, but is the equivalent of a 3 iron and has the carry of a lower fairway wood (a 5 FW if I recall correctly). It is so easy to hit, and when you connect well with it there is a high trajectory with great carry and a soft landing with just a bit of roll to it (unlike the long flight / long roll of fairway woods). Great for making shots where controlling distance is paramount.

I've been browsing around and seen Nickent hybrids and fairway woods for extremely cheap prices; somewhere in the neighborhood of $30.00. Does Nickent make quality clubs? Any testimonials out there from people who currently use them? I'm just curious to see what everyone thinks of them since I know very little about them.

Thanks for the advice! I use Bridgestone e5+ and e6+ balls for the record.

Two quick questions: 1. My 3 hybrid is a 19* loft but doesn't replace a 3 wood in terms of loft, correct? Does the number of a hybrid correspond to a different fairway wood or iron than is indicated on it's sole? 2. As for fairway woods, are there any brands or models that are particularly great? I just noticed a price reduction on Callaway Hyper X fairway woods and Taylormade Burner fairway woods and I'm not looking to break the bank with a new club addition - do either of these clubs have reputations for being high quality? If you have any other suggestions too I would be more than willing to hear them!

I understand what you mean by wrist hinge mechanics and I agree completely! As for take away, are you referring to backswing particulars? Could you maybe elaborate slightly on how this affects the shot? Maybe briefly describe what different take aways do to your shots (generally)? Also, doesn't opening or closing the clubface (and opening or closing your stance to match) to an appropriate degree also affect the spin and thus the result after the ball lands? Any and all advice is appreciated!

I think what I'm really looking for is being able to control the amount of spin I need. I have a hard time just dropping my shots on the green without having a bunch of roll to them and find that at distances under 40 or so yards, this is something that I'm leaking strokes on. Sometimes the roll isn't bad, other times it hits and ends up rolling to the edge of the green. Maybe not so much focusing primarily on getting the ball to spin back after landing, but being able to control spin in a manner that I can control the amount of roll I put on shots (from zero spin to having it spin backwards). I hope I'm making sense here

I've been fiddling around with my two wedges trying to learn to consistently hit two distinct roll patterns. The first, to get the ball to land on the green and then bite and spin backwards; the second shot being a flop shot where the ball lands and stops nearly immediately. I assume both are related to the amounts of backspin created by the stroke, but I'm relatively new to the game so I don't want to make incorrect assumptions. Any tips or advice on how to perform these two shots would be greatly appreciated!

I'm not sure what the next thing I'd pick up would be. I have a driver, a 19* 3 hybrid (taylormade burner rescue), and then my irons range from 3 on...for distance clubs, what would be a good thing to add? another hybrid or perhaps a fairway wood in the range of driver - 5 iron? Any suggestions? I find that at my current home course I find myself using my hybrid quite extensively.

I also have quite a few of these as well, and they really are an interesting training aid...a cylindrical golf ball? WHAT BLASPHEMY! I used these up until I got the AlmostGolf balls that I currently use. I find the birdie ball is good to indicate whether or not you get a clean hit, but it isn't as good as the AlmostGolf balls at indicating the direction, fade, draw, slice, etc. that is the result of your swing. These don't fly as far as the AlmostGolf balls either, so if you are VERY limited on space you can pick these up. I hit my 3 Hybrid about 60 yards with these if I remember correctly.

Way ahead of you mate! (read the first page of responses when you get a chance) - seriously though, they are fantastic practice aids and I would recommend them to anyone who needs a solid practice ball with the comfort of knowing they aren't going to annihilate a window or windshield or what have you.

It all depends on the club you are using. When I use my 3 hybrid, I usually end up hitting around 100 yards (roughly). I believe they market that a true driver hit won't go past 150 yards. I found that a wiffle ball really was not an good indicator of my swing, whether it be a good contact or a bad contact. They are about 65% of the weight of a standard golf ball (which is around 62 grams)...

I was introduced to a great product last year by my instructor called "AlmostGolf". They are foam balls that are more true flying than wiffle balls and also carry a bit further due to their heavier weight. They don't break windows, and they really do reveal whether or not your swing is dead on or if you slice or fade. I think Dick's sells them as a pack of 36 for around 25 bucks. They are really good training aids in my opinion. Since I have a small back yard, anything above practicing with my wedges begins to get risky (as in, I might break someone's window with a real golf ball). That's when I use these! http://www.almostgolf.com/ Hope this helps!

I had this happen to me on my X-14 graphite shafted 9 iron. Perfect, solid hit. What I thought to be just a scratch at the bottom of the shaft just above the hosel was apparently more than just a scratch. After impact, the head of my iron went sailing down the way. This was while practicing at a driving range, and they never found where my iron head went. Hence, I'm now the proud owner of an X-22. Just be careful and monitor how the mark looks after use in the future.

You know, now that you mention it, I feel as though sometimes when I get that pure clean strike on the ball it not only goes far, but also climbs up REALLY high into the air...I assume you mention this because it would begin to hold back the distance that I can achieve on my iron shots? As far as stiffness equivalency, I believe the "light flex" to be comparable to "senior flex" (I'm not sure if that is "A" flex as you refer to it in your post).

Any other input or advice on this topic? Just curious as to what other experienced golfers think.

My X-14's are fitted with Big Bertha Light Flex Graphite shafts - I bought them used at Golfsmith and as such didn't really have a choice as to what shaft style I wanted with my budget (paid ~$150 since I didn't want to blow hundreds if I found out I didn't enjoy golf...which clearly isn't an issue!). They hit well, but I wonder if some of the problem I'm having finding consistency among other things is due to the shaft flex. I'm a 6'2'' 195lb. young man and probably have a swing speed that exceeds optimal light flex shaft speed (while testing out hybrids at a fitting center I was told I swing in the low to mid 80s). I'm sure that with the proper instruction I should be able to work around this, as well as try and "contain myself" from grip it and rip it speed...but what are your thoughts on shaft style? Is this a huge problem or is it ok?

Also another question - my X-14's are fitted with Big Bertha Light Flex Graphite shafts - I bought them used at Golfsmith and as such didn't really have a choice as to what shaft style I wanted with my budget. They hit well, but I wonder if some of the problem I'm having finding consistency among other things is due to the shaft flex. I'm a 6'2'' 195lb. young man and probably have a swing speed that exceeds optimal light flex shaft speed (while testing out hybrids at a fitting center I was told I swing in the low to mid 80s). I'm sure that with the proper instruction I should be able to work around this, as well as try and "contain myself" from grip it and rip it speed...but what are your thoughts on shaft style? Is this a huge problem or is it still ok?

As for the pricing, you're telling me!? I actually checked back with the two places and apparently they altered their charges since . It's $55USD for a 1/2 hour lesson + video analysis and take home DVD of your lesson. It's with "an 11 year PGA professional Robert Mauer". Not sure if that gives him significant credibility or what, but that's the cost. The second place (home course) is $65USD for a 45 minute lesson with an assistant PGA professional, $75 with the head PGA professional at that course. Seems expensive compared to the clarinet lessons I used to take...is this generally the going rate? Again, thanks for all the comments and advice!

Good point...would you recommend tracking things like putt strokes, bunker shots that hit the fairway / green, tee to fairway %, etc?

Are you talking about reinforcement on your own time? If so, that makes tons of sense. I'm not steering away from putting in the hours to get something right...I know what that's all about as I pursue other hobbies and sports that require the same regimen. I am pretty certain though that the actual instruction only lasts as long as I originally stated...at least according to the golf shop attendants. I've yet to take a lesson from a professional, so perhaps there's something I haven't been told yet :P

What size fairway wood would you recommend then? As far as a gap wedge, perhaps another recommendation for loft angle? My X-14 PW is 46* if that helps any. As far as hybrids, I already use a TaylorMade Burner Rescue 3 hybrid 19*, so I'd assume that suffices enough to remove my 3 and 4 irons from my bag (I shoot pretty poorly with both).

Thanks for the advice so far! I have been contemplating taking a few lessons at my home course (Heron Glen), or at the driving range that I go to most frequently. Prices are $65USD for a 45 minute lesson and $45USD for a 60 minute lesson respectively. The allure of a new stick is just so tempting though! haha

Hey all - I'm a new member to this forum so first I'd like to say hello! I'm new to the golf scene (this is my third season out), but I've become somewhat addicted to this game... So, I'm trying to build a decent bag for myself to utilize while I'm out golfing with my friends and family, and I've received helpful tips from them in regards to which clubs to add to my set as I go along. However, I'm sure that the many people here on this forum also have great advice! So I ask; what should I add next to my bag? What I currently own is listed in my signature; I know that it is missing what I am told to be key elements, such as a 3 or 5 wood, several more wedges, etc. Just your thoughts, what would you recommend a novice golfer add to his bag next? I will re-list my bag's contents here in case anyone is unable to see my signature: In my bag: Driver: Callaway 454 Titanium Big Bertha 9* Hybrid: TaylorMade Burner Rescue 3 Hybrid 19* Irons: Callaway X-14 Steelhead Irons 3-8, PW Callaway X-22 9 Iron Wedge: Callaway Forged 56* Putter: Odyssey Tri-Ball SRT Thanks so much!

I'm a huge fan of Tiger - his putting abilities (at least pre-surgery) were incredible. I love watching him snipe around the green from a few yards out.

Here it is - fun course with a ton of fescue to avoid. Fairways are broken up pretty well by it. The course is actually built in and around a bird "sanctuary", hence the name http://www.heronglen.com/