tradewind_golfer

How about the Tour Edge Exotics XLD? (The first one). Someone gave me a 12* senior shaft and I tried it out for fun. Amazingly easy to hit, straight, long enough and very forgiving. The specs say it's a square face--very rare for such a high loft. You can get them for around $150 brand new (rockbottom?) AND you get a free XLD fairway wood too.

Don't re-shaft a graphite-shafted, titanium driver with a steel shaft--trust me, I've done it twice. You'll love the first three swings with it until you notice that it's about 20 yards shorter than it was with the graphite shaft. The weighting just feels weird--think heavy shaft, light head. Just look on Ebay and find something used; preferably something that came originally with a steel shaft (975 D had a few as well as the old Cobras). Or have a club builder make you a cheap component head, weighted correctly with a steel shaft--should come out less than $100 for sure. Best of luck and let me know if you ever find the PERFECT driver!!!

I would not get your current irons re-shafted. I believe the heads were probably weighted to work with graphite shafts--if you stick steel shafts in their you might seriously mess up the balance and swing weight. Just pick up a used set of MP-14's, 33's, 37's or some Hogan, Titleist blades. You can find decent used sets for $100 to $200 on Ebay. Keep your current irons and just play around with the blades for a while. The nice thing about forged blades, is even if they're used, you can still get them bent to fit you and you won't have spent tons of money. Start by playing with just the PW-7iron or something. If you like them, switch over to the blades. But if you hit your current irons ok, DO NOT re-shaft or trade them in--just keep them in the closet until...? Trust me, I've done this and still kick myself when thinking of all the great iron sets I let go for nothing. Also, if you re-shaft, you'll still be wondering what it feels like to play blades and I bet you'll still want blades eventually anyway. Happy hunting!

I don't think they actually sell "Petite" golf clubs. Most women's clubs are 1/2 to 1" shorter than men's. My "other" is 5'2" and swings regular women's irons with no problem. Depends on how much you want to spend, but you could either buy a used set of women's irons (Mizuno, Cobra, etc...) and just grip down on the club an inch or so. The other club maker pro's on this board can correct me on this, but I think for every 1/2" shorter, your lie will be .5 degrees flatter. Or, if you're really not sure, just pick up 3 used women's irons have them cut down an inch. You won't be able to tell much of a difference between a 6 or 7 iron in the beginning anyway, and you can always move "up" to better clubs later. Good luck!

I just traded in the 588 56* SW I've been playing with for the past 14 years for a Vokey spin milled 56/10 SW. Differences: -588 does feel "softer" and has an old familiar feeling (obviously) -Vokey SM has a straighter/square (not rounded) leading edge--which helps alignment -Vokey has a touch less bounce (10* vs 12*) and seems to make a little cleaner contact on slightly fat/thin shots (the 588 could feel a bit "chunky" at times when off--flop shots especially) -Vokey SM does have a bit more spin I like the Vokey after having played the 588 for so long.

Try one of the older R5 draw versions with a regular shaft (see review on this site--well done and accurate). It definitely has some major left-bias and can be picked up for around $60 on E-bay. I played draw drivers forever thinking it would help with the fade/slice. It definitely helped; however, once you really start hitting the ball well and FULLY releasing the club, you'll get frustrated with it ALWAYS going left--or, you'll over compensate and push it way out to the right. Think about getting both a draw and a neutral version of a decent used driver (like the R5). Then E-bay the one you don't like. Also, I don't know if it's only me, but I always felt like draw-weighted drivers lost a bit of distance compared to neutral drivers??? Happy ho'ing!!!

I purchased a driver that was listed as "Used" and a "9" in terms of condition. I was surprised when I finally got it as they had sent me a brand new one instead (plastic wrap and stickers still on it). I wrote to them to thank them and thought they had made a mistake, but they were very cool and wrote me back personally just saying they appreciated my business. Three purchases from them so far, no problems at all.

Thanks, folly! I haven't been this impressed with a driver for at least the past 50 trade-ins !!! The .5* open face had me a bit concerned, but now I'm seeing there's nothing to fear...big difference--lot's of potential!

I had a 52* Carnoustie for a while. Played just fine but it felt a bit "harder" at impact than the Cleveland 588 and Vokey. Also, look up the specs because at least the 52* had pretty low bounce. Not really a "feel" wedge, but it looks good and goes good. If "soft forged feel" is what you want, you can't go wrong with the older Clevelands (haven't tried anything since the 588 though).

What kind of Wilson's are they? I had Wilson Staff blades (FG-17?) for 10 years and now wish I hadn't sold them for beer money while in college. If you want an old club to feel "brand new," just get some decent grips put on the 5-PW and they will feel much better. DO NOT buy a new "beginner" set because you'll hate them when you improve and resale value is nothing. Get a used, non-premier brand (no Callaways...). Look at Tommy Armour 845's. You can find them used on E-bay for under $100--solid solid irons. And, you can probably sell them for almost the same amount if you decide to "move up" to something later. Good hunting and welcome to the world of the club ho!

Ok, thought I owed you guys an update. The FT-5 draw was a serious draw machine. This was fine when I was just taking it easy, but once I got warmed up and started just letting it go, I was hitting some mean draws/hooks. The funny thing was, contact felt terrific, but the ball just took off straight then started turning to the left. Picked up the FT-5 Tour 10.5* neutral with the stiff E-360(?) shaft. This is definitely a "tweaked" version of the standard model. Ok, here's what I notice: 1. It's a bit heavier and feels even more "stable" throughout the swing 2. The COG does seem just a touch higher (the 10.5* tour launches a bit lower than the 10*) 3. Misses tend to be spread out more evenly left and right of center (not all left and more left like with the regular FT-5). 4. The .5* open face is hardly noticeable but perhaps subconsciously it looks like you can let it go. I never understood why guys liked square or slightly open clubs, but now I kind of understand. Distance is fantastic, impact is great, and I like the sound. I would say that anyone who fights the ball going left when really cranking one would like the tour version a little better than the regular. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm praying to the Volcano Goddess that this driver is THE ONE!!! (pleasepleaseplease!!!)

Yes, that's what I'm seeing, and the shaft is a few grams heavier, also swing weight is D3 vs. D2 (not sure I could tell the difference). I'm just wondering how much that 1.5* difference will make (regular FT-5 is 1* closed). Just wondering if any of you guys tried the FT-5 Tour in the DRAW version. How does that work? .5* open face and draw biased weighting. I'm hoping that it wouldn't be as wicked a "hooker" but haven't really ever tried a "tour" version driver before. Thanks for the input!

Thanks, that's good to know.

Any comments out there on the differences between the two? I picked up an FT-5 10* draw with the stiff E-150 shaft and really like it. However, I notice that I'm getting more distance and actually starting to lose balls left. (Going to the standard FT-5 in neutral bias is not an option as the the shop I trade at does not have any used ones--but they do have neutral Tour versions and draw bias Tour versions as well). I see that the FT-5 tour is .5* open and shaft is a few grams heavier. I know a lot of you guys prefer a square or slightly open face--any feedback on why you like this? I've goog'd this but can't come up with many head-to-head comparisons of the tour and non-tour version. Mahalo for any feedback!

I had ditched my T-zoid PW for a while and played a Cleveland 588 RTG 49* special. Had it bent to 47* but found that there wasn't enough bounce--so had it bent back. A few weeks ago I traded it (and half a closet full of club ho trophies) in for a new driver. Playing the matching PW from your set has the feeling that you're hitting an iron, whereas playing a wedge-like PW is obviously more like a wedge. If you want more feel around the green, you should try the MP-T. However, if you want consistency with full shots down to 100-125 yrds, I would just stick with the MP-57 PW--it's a very nice club and probably a touch more forgiving than a blade wedge. Good hunting!