tdinneen

So how do the rep points work? can't find anything in the FAQ.

This is getting out of hand. In my original post I gave my opinion on the r7 TP's I tried versus the Mp-60's, which is what this thread was all about. My opinion that's all. If that doesn't agree with your opinion then either reply giving your own opinion and not trying to discredit mine. With respect to saying the R7's were a little too much of a game improvment for me. What that means to me is that just like the MX-25's that you ditched is that they hit a little too high for me. As for the MP-32's versus the 60's and 67's. Of the three I found them the best for me. Yes, again that's just for me. You might be different. The 60's and the 67's didn't feel that great to me, not compared to the 32's and the X-Tours. That's all I said and calling me names isn't going to change that!! Also, I never said that I found the short game tough. No where did I say that. For me coming back to the game from 3 years off is that my short game takes the longest to come back to me. That's a personal statement, your game might be different. I find that 30, 40, 50 meters out when you can't take a full swing is hard to judge without putting the hours in, which I clearly haven't given it's my second time out in ages. As for Mr. 280 yards. If you read my post that's what I used to hit. And I never said I can't hit a fairway wood. A three wood from 230 yards is my favourite shot in the game of golf. My old clubs are in Australia, I'm in Canada, to get back into the game I just bought 3-PW's with a couple of wedges and a putter. So I don't have a driver or a fairway wood right now. If I had one I know where I'd put it right about now!!! And what's all this about lying about how good I am. I never claimed to be good. I hit in or around 18 over at the moment (used to hit 12 over, which is the same as this guys hits and he wanted to move from MX-25's straight to 755's or MP-60's??? just doesn't add up to me). What's so hard to believe that a guy can par 6-7 holes and mess up the rest with bad shot choices, distance guess issues and putting woes from being out of the game for 3 years, for me in the last two rounds if somethings goes bad it goes very bad... again what's so hard to believe.

I completely agree with you (nice post by the way). I can go out and hit 8 or so GIRs with maybe 6-7 pars out of that and still hit in the 90's. I'm like a light switch, I can par 3 or 4 holes in a row and then double or triple bogey the next 3-4. It's all in my head (and my short game, must actually start applying that David Pelz's book I got). I must admit that I suffer from the Seve Ballesteros at times, if I can go for the glory shot I'll give it a try... more often that not I'll end up in a bunker or over the green but hey part of the fun are those couple of glory shots per round that work out I have to work on my course management a bit, which as you say is between the ears.

Hello from Canada. Although I'm Irish, so when growing up I could play till 11pm in the summer (4.30 in the winter , not quite 24/7 golf... must be awesome not to have to ditch work early mid week to try and get a round in. You could probably go home, have dinner, watch TV and then go I'd fancy a round at 9 in the evening .... awesome!!!

Just thought I'd quote you on a couple of previous posts you made "you gotta be kidding me....you hit it 280+ and you are also a 24 handicap....u either work for Callaway or have the worst short game ever..." So you admit that a guy can bomb it and still have a crap short game, slightly contrary to calling me a lier and blaming my short game on my mid 90 scores. "My journey goes from Callaway Big Bertha to TM RAC OS2 to Mizuno MP32 to Titleist 735CM to Mizuno MX25 to TM R7 TPs....you need to find a set of cavity backs with minimal offset....ie MP 60s, Titleist 755, Callaway X forged or TM R7 TPs.....unless you need help getting ball up in the air you really should stay away from game improvement clubs...." So you admit that a guy should try all these clubs (including MP-60's!! which I wouldn't exactly call cavity backs) if he doesn't have issues getting the ball up in the air.. which I don't, so in effect you are suggesting that I try all these clubs!!! "Just dumped my set of Mizuno MX-25 ....had too much weight down low and with the combination of dynalite shafts was ballooning my irons ....... I am thinking about either Titleist 755 vs Mizuno MP60..." So you play off 12 which is what I used to play off, even so I'm only 6 shots off at the moment. Even my 12 was from playing maybe 10 times a year. Yet you are quite happy to dump the MX-25's (which I also didn't like 'cos they ballooned on me as well, and that was with DG S300's) and move straight to 755 or MP-60's!!!!! Sorry but seem to have double standards.

I haven't played golf for a few years. I've been to the driving range 2-3 times and played 2 full courses since I've been back. The driving range helps with... well driving the ball, it doesn't do much for the short game. Hitting the ball straight and long is not an issue for me (at the moment most of the time, but then again I've only hit maybe 400 balls in the last 3 years!!!). The short game however is all about feel. It's all fine knowing that you can hit a PW 115 yards if you're at 115 yards, it's when you're 50, 40, 30 yards that's the problem for me right now. I'll hit it too hard and it won't stick on the green. It'll hit that flop too soft and it'll go into the bunker. So to call me a bullshitter 'cos I got 8 GIRs and 6 pars on my last round but still shot in the mid 90's is a little heavy handed given you don't know me. In fact on my last round I was 6 over on the front 9, with 6 GIRs, then I blew up on the 10, 11, 12, 13 (yes with double and triple bogeys) but got it together and par'd the 16th and 17th. It was my first time playing that course as well, and had trouble reading the greens, hit 36 putts (16 two putts, a triple and a single). So suggesting that the clubs (that I got fitted for incidentally over the course of 4 weeks in GolfTown where the guys don't get commission on sales!!) are too good for me based on nothing else but my current handicap of two rounds in three years is a little harsh. Also, for what's it's worth the longest club I hit that day was a 5 iron 'cos a) I haven't bought hybrids or woods yet and b) just forcing myself to course manage rather than trying to always hit it as far as I can off the tee with a 3 as I can. I've always had that problem so I'm trying to calm myself down while I'm still getting back into it. Sorry to whom ever started this thread, I just can't resist putting ass#oles in there place.

I really liked it. Tried the 19 degree if memory serves. Tried a couple that day. The Nickent 3DX, TaylorMade Dual TP, Cobra Baffler and the Mizuno CLK's. Would put the Nickent and the Callaway on top, and if I had to make the choice between the two I'd go for the Callaway's just based on look at address. Incidentally tried them all out on a launch monitor. Would love to get them all out in the rough and see what happens. I reckon the Callaways would come out on top, again just based on the look of the sole plate. Now you've got me thinking, maybe I'll just go out and buy the X's tomorrow

Actually I have to own up to the fact that I haven't tried graphite shafts on clubs in years. So it could all be a better experience now have to say that the stock shafts on some of the hybrids I've been trying recently have been quite nice. So maybe ignore my graphite over steel and try them all out. At that end of the day it comes down to a clubhead / shaft combo that delivers a consistent flight (only a driving range or golf simulator will give the info you need, hitting into a net at a golf shop doesn't really give you much feedback). Also, note that graphite shafts are lighter (70-80 grams versus lets say 130 for a Dynamic Golds which seem to be the goto steel shaft's these days), so the overall club weight is less (albeit the clubhead will be heavier to match the swingweights, but overall it'll weight less). Which means you're swingspeed will be faster. Which translates to distance. Not always a good thing if you have to give up on accuracy. So again try them all out on a launch monitor. You can change colours for each club and see the trajectories / distances / carry etc... etc...)

I just have one word to say... "ass#ole". While I'm currently playing off of 18 or so, I'm just getting back into the game from a few years off (I've been back about 2 months). I used to play off of 12 which is what you seem to play off My swing is still there but it's a little inconsistent. I get 8-9 GIRs per round which translate to 6-7 pars which is pretty good for what you call a "bogey player" but I blow up on a couple of holes which skews my score. It mostly has to do with my short game which is a little slower coming back to me that my iron play. Thanks srjorion and ActionJackson for defending me. As for listing those clubs, I tried other cavity style backs and hated all of them. I prefer a more traditional looking club, which is why I didn't really like the r7's but they are still a good club, I've nothing really bad to say about them other than they weren't for me (I also note that you play r7's, if you don't like people giving your clubs bad reviews they maybe you need to get a thicker skin!!) I also don't buy into this blade's are for single handicapers. Out of all the clubs I tried, game improvements included the Mizuno MP-32's gave me the best results. I don't think someone should be judged on the clubs they use just because they are supposed to be for so called better players. If they are the best clubs for you they are the best clubs for you. And just to annoy you I used to bomb my drives 280 yards (albeit with about a 6/10 fairway hit... but hey it's fun to bomb although I've decided for now to stick to irons until I get back down into the mid 80's.

Shaft flex isn't just based on swing speed (incidentally what club measured 105mph? driver / 6 iron 'cos swing speed differs with club length / weight). It depends as much on tempo, trajectory etc. Generally a stiffer flex will give you accuracy and a softer flex distance. You sometimes hear people say get the softest flex that you can control. Which means if you can control a regular shaft just as well as a stiff shaft the regular should give you more distance in the long irons and less distance (more accuracy) in the short irons ('cos the decreased flex allows the shaft to bend forward more on impact, which increases loft). And who doesn't want more distance in long irons and more accuracy in the shorts. Back to tempo. If you've got a smooth swing, you can go softer flex. If you have a quick snappy swing, go stiffer. So if you feel the club bending a little too much at transition (back to downswing) go stiffer. How does the club feel at impact? spongy / soft... maybe try a stiffer shaft. If it feels like a 4x4 block of wood then try softer. On to tragectory. Tip flex is important as well. If the shaft feels like the right flex for you, so not too bendy at transitions. Good contact / feedback but the ball flies low or high, then getting the same flex shaft with a stiffer or softer flexed tip may ne the way to go. At the end of the day you want a shaft that give you a good accuracy with consistant tragectory / distance control. Sounds simple but I'd really find a golf shop that's got a launch monitor. It helps heaps to see different tragectories with different shafts. Personally I'd stay away from graphite shafts in irons, unless you have trouble generating speed (which you don't).

Yeah, a good shoulder turn and that x-factor a the top of the turn where you start to rotate your hips just before finishing your backswing (really coil up the shoulders against the hips) will do more for distance than weights. Delaying the wrist release on the downswing can add more then bulking up as well. Check out slow-motion videos on YouTube, most pros don't release till there hands are in front of right hip. But assuming you've got a good power swing, then the muscles to work on for golf are lats, triceps and hip flexors. A good core for balance is essential as well, although it's more balance and stability than the source of power in a swing. So chin-ups, dips and side lunges. Throwing a medicine ball to a mate on your left is good (for right handed golfers) 'cos it works everything. A weighted club is good to hit as well. Stretching is essential, you don't want to build bulk and loose flexibility. Also, muscle will build the way you train it. So doing heavy weights slowly will make you strong but with little speed (remember power = strenght x speed). Doing more reps of lightly weights faster (not too fast that you lose form) will build muscle... not as much... but it'll be a faster more powerful muscle than what you had in the first place.

Tried both when I went hunting for new clubs a few weeks back. The r7 TPs were a really nice club, very forgiving but hit a little high for me. I guess maybe a little too much game improvement for my ability? long irons were easy to hit off the deck. Found the r7's didn't give a whole lot of feedback either, hard to tell where you hit the ball. Thought they were a bit clunky as well, great off the fairway but I reckon they'd scare me in the rough I'm a fan of Mizuno, so tried the MP-60's, 67's and 32's as well (along with Callaway X-Tours and X-Forged, Ping S-58's, GC2's and 4's etc.) Didn't overly like the MP-60's or 67's? I think they were a little too much club for me! well the 7-PW were just about right but found the 3-6 a little eratic (more to do with my swing I imagine having said that the MP-32's were awesome, just the right mix for me (ended up getting these but replaced the 3 and 4 with MP FLI-HI's). If I were to rate all he clubs I tried, just to give you a comparison MP-32's 9.0 X-Tours 8.5 r7's TP 8.0 MP-60's 7.5 X-Forged 7.5 MP-67's 7.0 Ping S58's 6.5

I like the two baseball drills. Baseball drill 1 - hold club straight out in front of you, swing back and forward. Swing plane is parallel to ground (just like baseball swing). Add 10 to 15 degrees every couple of swings until you reach normal address positions. Good warm up and helps establish the correct plane to take the club back on. You should fell the same relative arm swing to upper torso. You just bend at hips to angle the plane more and more. Baseball drill 2 - normal backswing, at top of swing bring left leg in to meet right calf. This makes sure you've got good weight shift to right on backswing. Then down swing and simultaneously move left leg back to address position (just like a baseball swing). This makes sure you've got weight shift back to left on downswing.