kfowler

If there were white stakes for OB, he should have played stroke plus distance or at least dropped his ball on his side. I play on several courses that have this and they have the OB stakes for a reason. Typically because the fairways are tight and they don't want golfers slowing play by hitting from adjacent fairways. IMO, you should never hit from anywhere considered to be OB. That being said it sounds like you approached the situation wrong and didn't do anything to help it. It sometimes makes sense for a player who to an adjacent fairway to hit first before you do as to not slow play. Both players need to be courteous and considerate to the other player.

Had one of the better rounds I've had at Pheasant Run. Shot an 81. Really solid back nine. I was +1 and could have gone sub par had I made two 5' putts. That being said I did drop a 40' for birdie so can't complain. Irons were much better. Had one shank that killed me. Driver got me into real trouble twice. Need to get better at damage control. Putting and chipping were really good. Greens were slow though.

I was echoing what you said previously.

Wow that's great! Closest I've had was recently looking for a TM Burner FW #3 and #5 in R flex. I'd been watching them on eBay and most were going for closer to $100. I was playing at this country course in the middle of no where over July 4th and lo and behold, they had both woods sitting in the used bag area. They were $75 each which was an ok deal considering their shape but I was too excited to have found the exact ones without having to go on-line.

Shindig - I assume you're talking about the regular A7 and not the A7OS?

I'm looking for a specific type of GI irons and would like some suggestions. Here's the criteria: - Neutral bias. I hit a natural draw so no draw bias. - Max forgiveness for off center hits. My misses are more toward the heel so that would be preferred. - A prior years model would be great. Off hand, I was thinking of like Ping G10/15 or Adams A4. Any thoughts?

I've been to three different instructors in my life. I think I've taken something away from all of them. As I've become much more informed about swing theory, I can certainly look back and question some of the things I was told. Here's an example. I spent 20+ years of my life as a horendous slicer. I had the classic over-the-top swing with a wide open face. When I first started taking lessons, the first thing we worked on was eliminating the casting and maintaining lag. After four lessons, we the started working on getting the club on plane. I now firmly believe that lag is created by good fundamentals and putting the club in a good position. I think he was teaching it backwards. So yes I think there's some truth to what you say. That's also why I like 30 min lessons instead of 1 hour.

I was talking to my dad earlier today and he said the exact same thing. He said as soon as you get into real trouble, you should start playing for bogey. If you end up with par, great! Seems like a pretty good approach.

So getting into specifics, what are your go to clubs for getting out of trouble? For instance, I like using a 6i with a punch shot. Easy to make good contact and easier to control. I'll have to check out Dave's book. I've read his Putting Bible. Thanks for the reply.

I had an interesting round yesterday. Shot an 81 and was only +1 on the back nine. I had 2 Birds, 10 Pars, 2 Bog, 3 Doubles, and a Triple. This was a great round for me but it could have been spectacular had I better managed one of the doubles and the triple. For instance, on one of the doubles, I pulled my drive into the left rough on a hard dog leg right Par 5. I had a bad lie in the rough on a sloped mound. I tried to play is smart and just use a 4 hybrid to lay up. I ended up topping the ball and knocking it about 30 yards closer into rough. So I hit out of trouble into more trouble. Looking back at it now, I should have just punched out with a 6i or 7i. This same similar problem occurred on the triple. So my question is, any advice on better managing holes where start out in trouble?

Exactly. Idea of rating and slope is to make everything equal.

Bad thing was he did the same thing to me on the last hole. He'll definitely not be one of my regular golfing buddies.

Absolutely. We started playing a course regularly this year that according to rating and slope, is easier than another course I play regularly. The course has a lot of rolling hills and small greens with lots of undulation. This really does not fit my game well. I actually tend to do better HCP wise on tougher course. I think a lot has to do with my ability to keep the ball in play.

I was playing with some family and friends over the 4th. I'm the only serious golfer while my brother-in-law (BIL) is semi-serious meaning he's plays pretty close to the rules. My other two partners play infrequently. BIL and I were in a friendly stroke play against each other. My BIL was teeing off and right during his back swing, our friend, starts talking really loudly. Totally oblivious to my BIL's swing. MY BIL proceeds to banana slice it into OB. He's has to hit a provisional but I tell him to go ahead and just a take a free re-hit from the tee box and not count it as a stroke. I searched the rules and I didn't see any kind of provision that addresses interruptions during your swing. Besides being really bad etiquette, how do you handle this? I recall several years back a kid brought an air horn to the Master's and set it off during someone's back swing. I don't recall if they gave the golfer a free re-hit or not. My gut feeling is technically you'd get no relief.

I spend a lot of time at either Miles of Golf in Ypsi or Carl's Golfland in Plymouth. Both have a heated stalls. Miles is a little better but more expensive.

mcman1 - I've mentioned this before but you really need a way to adapt this to be used with mats at a driving range. Something that would perhaps mount on the stall wall next to you. My issue with using this on grass would be getting a clean lie every time. At some point, your divots are going to get in the way. If you could add this options, I'd be all over it as the moving head is something I really struggle with. Good luck

At the range: 9/10 - Everything looks great at the range. On the course: Once per round. Seriously, I'd say 1/10 at the range. Maybe higher if I'm in the groove. Course I may hit one per round. Mine definitely go further because it's when I really pinch the ball. I think it was Hogan who actually said he only hits one or two perfect shots per round.

Not a member but I've looked at it. I just can't justify the cost. I tend to hit small buckets when I practice now so I don't think unlimited balls would be helpful.

IIRC, their "free" club costs $25+ to ship which is about the value of the club.

Anyone use a 7 wood instead of a 3 iron or 3 hybrid? Advantages or disadvantages. How does it perform in the rough compared to a hybrid? Thanks

Wow, that's a really good video. The breath and mouth thoughts are something I haven't heard before. Makes a lot of sense. Something has really helped my that I've read on here was the 4" focus drill. This is where you focus not on the ball but 4" in front of it. I have the same mental problems as you. When I video myself without a club, my head stays still and I have tremendous lag. Add a ball and my head moves forward and I start casting. Mind is a powerful thing.

I can deal with either of these three on their own and be fine: Rain, Wind, or Cold. Put either of them together though and I'm miserable.

Good course management often comes when you've played a course several times. We have one hole on the course near me that's a Par 5. It's a strong dog leg right with water running all along the right side up until the green. It's a fun hole to play because it's a real sucker hole. The first mistake is people always try and cut the water off the tee. The problem is even you hit a great shot, you're still 200+ yards to the hole and have to carry water again. It's a not a high probable shot for most people. So the reward for a great drive is not the good considering the risk. The smart play is to poke it out straight off the tee where you have plenty of room for error. Hit a nice mid iron on your second shot and it leaves you 100 yards out with no water in play unless you push it hard. Took me a couple of rounds to figure it out but it's definitely the smart play.

I believe it was the Burner. They ran out before I got mine. My neighbor got one and ended up buying a whole set b\c he liked it so much.

No one's going to be able to tell you that but you. My old driver was a TaylorMade Burner. I swapped last fall to the G15. I tried the R9 and thought it was ok. I was actually pretty disappointed since I do like TM drivers. Just didn't feel right. That being said, it may be the perfect driver for you. In my experience, the best way to buy a driver is to have a totally open mind and demo as many as you can. Forget the brand and buy the one that speaks to you.