Jon Robert

I have been trying for 25 years to solve the "issues" this year I was almost there. (I used mega tape under standard grip to produce fat no taper grip and 1 tablespoon #8 lead shot epoxied in shaft/hosel.) I was convinced my problems were due to slop in the connection of hand and grip. I discovered the Jumbomax and tried an XL i liked it in terms of no more slop. I figured that they might be a bit too large in circumference so I tried the small. I will be replacing all my clubs grips with Jumbo max small size. My hand fits perfect, no contorting, no slop. I did circumference analysis: an image search for Jumbomax and used an online circumference calculator to analyize what size to buy. ( https://www.hirekogolf.com/jumbomax-grips-jumbo-grips-created-equal ) After doing that I see no real point in the Jumbomax medium or large sizes. small is 7/16 bigger circumference than common +1/8, and XL is 6.2/16 bigger than small. The Med and Large are 3 and 5/16 larger than small. Jumping 7/16 seems like a meaningful gap, 3/16 and 5/16 not really. My hand fits on them silky smooth with no slop, 25 years of trying to make under sized "jumbo grips" work has failed and is solved with the Jumbomax size small. ps the lead I use in the shaft means no concern about swing weight, with or without these grips.

You are 17 you need to keep gramps irons talent will be revealed with them if you have any, Save your money for a CAR! It is amazing how few golf courses can be played without wheels. Also insurance, chicks (assume you are male), , college, chicks, green fees, chicks, clothes, chicks, big screen TV for video games, chicks etc etc etc, chicks etc etc etc.......................

"Just clarify that for me." No. I have written you off as a mental case. I will likely just block you so I never see your posts in the future. They are not worth reading being the endless bickering and contrarian for contrarian sake idiocy.

"Also at 6'2.5 cutting down a driver 4-5 inches would be uncomfortable as hell" You must have one H of a time suffering through the use of the 7 wood throught the wedges.

ps long grass can be used as well bu the witness obviously vanishes quickly after you brush through bonus: My theory: I am very right handed and in fact my natural unforced swing arc peak seems to be around my right foot. Hmmmmm????? Could it be that truly balanced ambidextrous people have a swing arc peak near the body center and left dominant have theirs near the Left foot? Hmmmmm? Don't know

"very cheap" You bet Callaway never lets me down. I have seen them used around here as low as $50.00 with no head cover compared to what your "very cheap" means Stiff? I don't notice much difference between stiff and regular.

"I don't understand what the hell you're talking about with regards to a progressive set" I guess if the photos in post 27 can't turn the light on then you are clearly a deliberate and intentional hopeless case that just likes to endlessly bicker. Write Titleist and all the other manufactures and tell then to stop making progressive cavity sets, maybe they could use a chuckle as well.

Good point, technically quite correct but a poster can likely visualize a "flier" better than a "thin" And I GUARANTEE that if you hit a 60 degree wedge thin due to bounce on hard fairway the ball will be flying to far and distant lands that you never intended to visit. Result is the same. thin or flier. "less spin and an unpredictable (but longer) distance."

The objectionist cannot fathom a driver made the length of a 7 wood. There is nothing sacred about 45" but the objectionist just wants someone to decree that he is correct and that is final. It wouldn't matter if a midget had a driver the length of a 5 iron the objectionist would demand that the midget use a 44.5" driver

Good point but if I were OP iI'd check local fitter availablitiy and cost. If that out weighs just buying a dirrerent set then...?

Enlighten me.

WOW! I wish I could answer that. I would be rich. I suggest that you go to the sand box and play. Observe your swing arc witness in the sand and work out your front to back position. Observe the repetitiveness of the in to out arc at various positions and work out the how far from the body ball position, but the lie angle of the club also determines how far from the body. You also want to perfect the "lag" of the swing otherwise your positioning is a frustrating effort in futility. Use your torso as reference points to duplicate points later.

Most likely a good choice but be aware that a poor swing on hard fairway and the bounce may cause a "flier" so keep the hands ahead of the club head and don't flip the head under the ball like trying to scoop it up. I love Cleveland wedges.

There will not be a noticeable improvement you can bank on that. Take a test board with you and masking tape. Insist that you be allowed to tape the club and hit the board several times to get a mark on the tape. The mark should be mid point hosel to toe indicating the lie is OK for you. Paint the board scrap with primer paint and dry for better witness mark If he says no then forget the clubs. Who knows what the lie is to you. The price? Look them up on eBay in the completed listing tab http://www.ebay.com/csc/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=Titleist+AP1&LH;_Complete=1&rt;=nc

Unwieldy clubs produce swing flaws. But you are a insistent opinionated person that declares everyone who disagrees with you to have a problem, so I am quite sure that you will declare that unwieldy clubs do not create swing flaws.

"Do you think he should his ball position? " Only he knows by looking at his swing arc but I would guess 6 inches to the rear of present to accommodate the swing change of extra hip rotation. But a huge factor is how is the club face altered by this hip change. Personally I would not even be discussing this with myself because I would not introduce a hip change until I figured out how to fix the slice. The point being hip change means bigger trouble and many adjustments. That is the basic point of my comments. Hip change means other problems to go along with the slice. As far as carry and roll. No blanket statement can be made. http://www.pgatour.com/2008/r/02/04/radar2008/index.html

If the sand is like wet concrete from rain then high bounce can be a problem. Zero bounce like on my 1963 Hogans IPT would be great because I could lay the club open and slide so wonderfully along right under the ball. High bounce may not get under and produce a bit of a flier effect especially if the club is not opened. The zero bounce in soft fluffy sand would be like a butter knife in butter - not good.

No need to rethink anything. The golf industry has already done that and produced the progressive cavity set. So on an Olympic scoring system I would score your Sniping as only a 2.7

I am thrilled for you. And you did it on specs and data rather than looks. I could probably be happy with those. They have a pocket for me to pour 2 ounces of lead into. They have conforming grooves, cavity back, Mizuno name, largest MOI / forgiveness numbers for Mizuno irons, long irons larger than short irons, There is very little not to like. "...and the forged will make jon robert happy" The only thing I would be concerned about the JPX800 is my compulsion to bend lies to be correct. The "hot metal" might snap so I would probably pay someone else who is insured to do it rather than myself. Then if they break it their insurance can buy me a new one. Otherwise BRAVO! Great choice. In fact I have 11 clubs that I will be bending this afternoon to be about 4 degrees flat.

A picture is worth a thousand words then a video is worth a million. But you need to know what to look at. Johnny Miller: How to analyze a swing sequence The trick is knowing what to look for. Here is a frame-by-frame guide Read More http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-instruction/full-swing/2007-09/miller_swinganalysis#ixzz23vk3uQ2y

There is no sacred cow swing weight any more than there is a sacred cow shoe size. A D4 46" driver at 42" would be about C0 Neither D4 nor C0 is a a sacred number to be maintained. I like to have GO-ish or heavie. I max out the SW scale and beyond.

You do not need to get the club parallel to the ground nor do you need to keep the left arm straight.. There are many teachers who will say this, do a web search and find them. It is much better to have an effective tension free golf swing with good result than a tension filled contortion trying to chase someones idea of the ideal one size fits all. I just love this video so I keep referring to it. there are many misconceptions and misapplications in the golf swing.

When it comes to High Low handicap wedges. The game improvement cavity backs certainly help prevent twisting on longer clubs. But as the loft gets greater the clubs delivers a more glancing blow and less side ways twisting forces. Thus we have the progressive set concept. Non cavity back wedges progressing to cavity back long irons. With a wedge and the glancing blow being a vertical thing rather than a horizontal the cavity should prevent the wedge from tipping over backwards. This is no concern since the shaft is being held and no tipping over back wards is going to happen I find only one purpose in having a cavity in the wedges as mine do, Hogan Apex Edge, and that is so I can add 2 ounces of lead in the pocket. When done you never see the alteration. Otherwise there is really very little to discuss when it comes to wedges. Head sizes, weight, grooves, surface finish etc. But cavity or not is really rather irrelevant.

Try aligning the ball in your stance off of your torso. Left arm pit, center right ear etc. Then it don't matter where your feet are on any kind of slope etc. Your weight will take care of itself if you position the ball on a torso location. Hitting down is probably a function of the mysterious "lag" or better stated - timing. To hit down ie hit with proper timing STOP STOP STOP trying to hit the ball with your hands. Rather allow the motion of the torso to pull the arms which in turn pulls than hands which in turn pulls the club which in turn causes the brain to freak out!!!! When the brain freaks out from the sudden realization that the arms hands club have been pulled into "THE LAG POSITION" then it suddenly throws the club from the lagging position around to hit the ball before it is too late. This magically produces a "down" hit (whether it is really down or not it is a good hit) The opposite of this is that the brain says if I am going to hit that ball I had better start getting this club turned around right away to get there on time. This also can work quite fine but tends to result in shorter distances, more directional error and stuff like hitting fat and other yucky things. If you really need to go very high over very short distance then either learn to open the face of your indicated PW or AW to effectively increase loft or buy a 60 or 64 wedge.

Children and short people do not need to take lessons so they can hit standard length drivers. They need non standard length drivers. The longer the club the harder it is to hit the sweet spot. Pros ave max is 45.5 DUH unless you are one of the best in the world then look at shorter lengths. This is so good I am just going to C&P; the whole thing "What all this means is this. Somewhere between 10 inches and 10 feet is the correct length for a golf club to hit the ball solid with distance and accuracy. But, I'll guarantee the right length for you is far closer to 10 inches than 10 feet!" The Search for the Perfect Golf Club The Search for The Perfect Golf Club (excerpt) From Chapter 1 - Getting a Head The loft, lie and lengths of your clubs all interact with one another and your swing speed to give you the direction, distance and trajectory of your ball flight. In terms of accuracy, the most important of these three is club length, followed by lie and loft. Let's look particularly at length. Length and accuracy is a no brainer. Think about it. If I put a club head at the end of a 10 inch shaft and ask you hit a golf ball straight down the fairway, it would be a pretty easy task. OK, so you'd only get to put one hand on the club, you'd be on your knees to address the ball, and the ball wouldn't go very far. But, it would be easy to make solid contact and to hit the ball straight. Now, let's say I switch you from a 10 inch to a 10 foot club and ask you to do the same thing. What do you think's going to happen? Right. The 10 foot long club would be almost completely uncontrollable. I remember when long drive competitions had just started, and golfers were in awe of the humongous long drivers these gorillas used. All of a sudden there was so much interest among regular golfers in super-long drivers that many shaft companies began to manufacture specially designed super-long shafts to meet the demand. One day I built a 60" long driver with a graphite shaft finished in a bright fire engine red. My wife Mary-Ellen happened to work with LPGA Tour player Tammie Green's brother at the time. We were headed out for a picnic at the Green family farm outside the quaint little town of Somerset, Ohio that weekend. I knew Tod would just love to get his hands on that club, what with all the talk at the time in golf about super long drivers, so I shoehorned all 60 inches of it into the car. The 9-hole golf course where all the Greens learned to play bordered the family's farmland so as soon as I pulled this 60" driver out of the car , Tod and Tammie got this gleam in their eyes and said, "let's go over to the club." In a flash the three of us hopped on the family John Deere, headed out across the fields and over to the Perry County 'Country Club'. Some vehicle to head into a golf course parking lot with, eh! As soon as we rolled in, Tod hopped off the tractor, took the 60 inch driver and strolled into the "clubhouse." Conspicuously waggling the driver in front of him, Tod hollered out, "Tammie'n me got us a new driver here and we're a'wonderin' if any of you boys want to give it a whack." Sure enough, the "boys" all jumped up and insisted on heading outside the front door to the 1st tee to try it out. Once there Tod posed a little proposition–you know, a group of guys hanging out drinkin' beers in the shop can't possibly do anything golf-related without "putting something on it"! Tod said, "OK, you guys give me a buck for each swing you take with this driver and I'll give you two bucks if you hit it over the ditch out there in the fairway." I took a look and figured the ditch that crossed the first fairway was out there about 210 yards, and probably a hazard most of these guys feared with their "mini-drivers." With visions of massive drives from this 60" driver, tongues were hanging out and hands were reaching into back pockets before Tod could finish uttering the challenge. Of course, Tod's "shill" was sister Tammie. After several of the "boys" paid the buck and topped, heeled, or dropkicked the driver, Tammie would step in and say, "Tod, you sure there ain't nothing wrong with that driver that's causin' the boys to hit it so short"? At which point Tod promptly handed the club to his tour player sister Tammie who blew the ball WELL over the ditch on the fly. Well that just stirred things up even more with the boys of Perry County C.C. To make a long story short, Tod and Tammie walked away with over $100 that day! And the guys all left with a lesson about long drivers, on-center hits and accuracy. The most heard phrase that day? "Gimme that damn thing again, I know I can fly the ditch." So Tod, Tammie and I all headed to the Somerset butcher shop and grilled steak at the picnic instead of burgers and dogs! What all this means is this. Somewhere between 10 inches and 10 feet is the correct length for a golf club to hit the ball solid with distance and accuracy. But, I'll guarantee the right length for you is far closer to 10 inches than 10 feet! Do NOT assume that the "standard" length found on the clubs in the golf shop, especially the woods, will be right for you. 98% of the men's drivers these days are built to a "standard" length of 45 or 45.5 inches; and I am here to tell you that a 45 inch driver will not fit 90% of all golfers and will never allow them to achieve their best combination of distance AND accuracy. Let me put it another way. Tiger Woods has swung a 43.5 inch driver most of his career on tour. If he could hit the ball straight with a 45 inch club–he would. He can't; so he doesn't. And he knows if he did use a longer driver, he'd have even more trouble keeping it in play. The average driver length for all the other pros on the PGA Tour today is 44.5 inches. Now if Tiger and the rest of his pals know they can't control a 45 inch long stick, what are the chances that you can? © 2003 - 2012 Tom Wishon Golf Technology. All Rights Reserved