tpcollins

When I choke down on the grip - let's say a full inch between the rear pad of my top hand and the end cap - I hit the ball more flush and straight. This does cause me to stand a hair closer to ball with a more upright swing. When I get out on the end of the grip, I seem to hit pulls more often than not. I realize this is subjective but how far is the back edge of your upper hand "suppose to be" from the end cap? Thanks.

If you take "u" and "me" out of the word assume - what's left?

I'll see if I can find an old "tank top".

Curiosity got the best of me . . . I'll see how this works.

Not sure I want to cough up $150 - $300 for a golf GPS but I was wondering if I took my Garmin Venture e-Trex and marked the center of every hole at my local golf course as a waypoint and label them 1 -18, I would theoretically have a golf GPS. I know, us retirees have to much time on our hands. (I've been using Google Earth to check yardages on various holes so I don't see why it wouldn't work. :-)

I'm looking to pick up a used gap wedge that will match my irons that have Dynalite Gold R300 shafts. The majority of shafts I see in used wedges are listed as stiff flex. Am I really going to notice the difference between the two shafts with a 100 yard club? Thanks.

I've been playing graphite shafts in my irons for about 15 years off and on. My last set was new Cobra S9 irons with graphite R flex shafts and hit these as well as anything I have in the past. I just bought a used set of Mizuno MX20 steel shafted irons and played with them Wednesday - the same day they arrived. We have a par 3 that's listed at 176 yards - I usually hit my Cobra 4 iron and either leave it short left or pin high in the trap on the left. Wednesday I striped the MX20 4 iron and hit the middle of the green on the fly and it rolled about 2 yards off the back. Every MX20 iron I hit went dead straight, I have a tendency to draw the graphite Cobras along with a pull left at times. I weighed both 8 irons, the Cobra is 390 grams, the MX20 weighed 438 grams - just over 12% more. So I'm wondering if the heavier steel shafted irons are slowing my swing speed down to where I can hit it more squarely or if it's just the "new girlfriend" affect? Thanks.

I do things bit differently but with reasonable results. When I use to play more, I depended a lot on feel - now I just use math. I remember a golf series on tv years ago pitching - whereas you learn what the PW, 9, 8 iron carry is for a horizontal to horizontal swing. I still use that to some extent sort of. But what really helped my short pitching/chipping around the green has to do with distance of the ball to one yard onto the green and the distance from that spot to the hole. I pace the steps from my ball to one yard onto the green, lets say it 4 paces. Then I'll pace from that one yard onto the green to the hole, lets say that's an addition 12 paces. I divide the first number into the second - 4 into 12 = 3. So if I have a 1-1, I use the PW, 1-2 ratio the 9 iron, 1-3 ratio the 8 iron. In this case I use the 8 iron and hit the ball enough to hit one yard onto the green and the lower loft (roll) will carry the extra distance to the hole. Then I just compensate for more uphill or downhill.

Golf shafts are like women - some play a lot better than others. I use to have all regular flex, I tried out a close-out sale Cobra driver at the pro shop one time with a Mitsubishi Basarra senior flex shaft - striped it right down the middle. It was $125 and I was able to get matching 3-5-7-9 woods on eBay with the same identical shaft - and I can take a really good whack on occasions with no ill affects. When I got the driver, Golfworks wanted $250 just for the same identical bare shaft.

I had a set of used Mizuno MX20 arrive yesterday and I shot within 1 stroke of my best round this year in my league last night - and I had 3 offline tee shots with my driver that cost me at least 3 strokes total. Every shot I hit with these irons went straight and felt pure. I would think if a different set of clubs fits, they should work immediately - imo.

I left the 3 iron home tonight to carry 14 clubs - but we have another 200 yard par 3 on the front 9 that I think I could put in front of the fringe with it off the tee. These clubs sweet - I just need to come up with a gap wedge. I carried my S9 gap wedge tonight and chunked it twice that cost me at least one extra stroke, maybe two - bummer.

I won the bid a set of Mizuno MX20 irons with steel shafts on fleabay, they came today, and after warming up with them before my league tonight, I decided to play with them. Holy crap - these went STRAIGHT to the target! My only issue tonight was a couple of offline tee shots but these irons went exactly where I pointed them. And the steel shafted irons went as far as my Cobra S9 graphite irons. The 9th hole is a 180 yard par 3 and I normally hit my Cobra 4 iron a couple yards short of the green, A smooth swing MX20 4 iron was 2 yards over the green and damn hear hit the flag on it's way by! I feel like a kid again, these clubs are sweet!

Thanks Tourspoon, that link is really neat.

Based on a previous thread about shortening drive shafts I got to thinking about putting on a midsize grip and just choking down on the grip to achieve the same affect. So I pick up a midsize tour velvet today and put it on my driver and I really like the feel - even though my finger length measures supposedly for a standard size grip. I've put layers of masking tape over the shaft before to increase the size but what about putting a .58 grip on a .600'" shaft? I had a new .58 tour velvet and just put in on a .600" shaft and I really like the feel. In comparing to other clubs. the .58 grip on a .60 butt measures right between my standard grips and the one midsize. Just wondering if anyone does this on purpose (and not by accident) as a way to increase their grip size? Thanks

I've gnawed off 3/4" - 1" on several drivers and for some reason they never felt right over time afterwards, I wound up putting a graphite extension back on. But I do grip down on a regular length driver and it feels better. However, gripping down puts your hands around a "smaller diameter" section of the grip. So if I almost think if I wanted to constantly grip donw, I should install the next size larger grip to get back to the regular feel.

I sent Mizuno an email and they responded with using the JPX 825 Pro gap wedge as well. However, after sifting thru photos. the MX25 gap wedge actually looks pretty close as far as the sole perimeter and open plain cavity back - no insert. I've got a lead on a MX25 gap.

Ah - the JPX might work, thanks.

I was the high bidder on a nice set of Mizuno MX20 steel shafted irons off of fleabay and was wondering what Mizuno gap wedge would fit in the 50-51 degree range? The MX20 PW is supposedly 46 degrees and I have Cleveland model 588 wedges in 53 and 56 degrees. I'd like to get something around 50/51 degrees as a gap wedge but I'd really like something as close to the MX20 PW type head as possible. I was wondering if a standard MX20 PW at 46 degrees could have the loft bent back to 50 degrees or so? Thanks.

Instead of buying a used set of Callaway Diablo irons for something different, I just bought a good looking set of used Mizuno MX20 irons - duh. I used to have a set of Comp EZ irons and regretting selling them - I think. I'm looking forward to hitting these MX20s.

Well, I am retired. If I don't keep myself busy, my wife will find something for me to do . . .

I saw online where someone took a McDonald's plastic straw, wrapped some thin foam around it, and then pushed it down the butt end of the shaft - similar it to the Sensicore inserts Golfsmith offers. Doesn't seem to difficult to make. http://www.golfsmith.com/product/30028716/true-temper-sensicore-inserts-8-pack

I'm thinking of picking up a set of Mizuno forged irons - just because. I had a set of the Comp EZ with steel shafts years ago, I should have kept them. I'm looking at used Mizuno sets again and noticed a set with the Exsar Blue graphite shafts - just wondering if anyone can offer some input on these shafts - yeah or nay? Thanks.

It is my understanding that offset hosles allow the slicer more time to square up the club face. I have a set of Cobra S9 irons and I can see they have progressively more offset from SW to the 4 iron. I'm back to a strong right hand now trying to prevent from rolling my wrists too early prior to impact. Some of the best irons I've ever played with was a set of Golfsmith Professional Grind blades that I assembled myself - really sorry I ever let them go. Just wondering if offset irons are problematic for us "quick wristers"? Thanks.

I'm thinking of picking up an extra used set of steel shaft irons - just because. It's similar to getting a new girlfriend - exciting at first until the newness wears off! I've had Big Berthas and X-16 Steelheads in the past but the oversized heads were usually a bit difficult when playing from the rough. I was looking at the Diablo irons yesterday and really noticed the amount of offset these irons have , along with the wide sole. The X-Hot heads look a bit smaller. The Diablo was favored over the Taylormade Burner 2.0 in a few online reviews but I sort of like the smaller sized Burner 2.0 - I just didn't like the darker colored heads. Just wondered what the thoughts are from the Diablo users here? Thanks.

The more I got to thinking about this, the more I think I played better when the ball was no further back than the middle of my stance for my shorter clubs. Yesterday afternoon I went out to the median in front of my house where I can chip short shots back into my yard. When I put the ball in the middle of my stance and hit half wedge shots, the ball "jumped" off the club with a nice trajectory - duh! I wonder if that will fix my "pulls" as well . . . My golf league is tonight - we'll see how theory stacks up against reality. Thanks.