dwade247

I used to hit at golfsmith too but I definitely got a sense that they hated me. And I purchased a membership for the hitting bays at the pga store when I bought my irons so they don't mind. I just take the mp4 to the practice bay and they love me at the pga store. That is until I ask them to put together a full set of TEs for me since the membership also includes unlimited free club repair. The work they do will pay for the membership itself.

I feel ya man. I am currently gaming Titleist 690.mb irons. I have gamed them all season and my scores dropped from the low 100s to an average of around 90 with my lowest score being and 84 although I did shoot a 41 but only played 9 holes that day. You don't need to be good to play blades. My irons are the best part of my game with my driver being the deciding factor most days and the fact that 2 putts are all I hope for. However a little bit of forgiveness would be nice. The only reason I am really looking to switch is because I want to treat myself to brand new irons but with my expensive taste for forged irons I had to look for a cheaper alternative to the big OEMs. I like the buttery smooth feeling of a pured mizzy (always mess around with the mp4 demo at the pga store) but honestly any pured shot feels good to me no matter what club. I mostly prefer forged irons for the solid feel of one piece of metal rather than the feeling of a thin face and plastic. Hopefully some day I can purchase a new set of mizzys.

WOW! That is great! I can't find any specs about sole width of any big OEMs so I couldn't really tell what .781" really looked like. But there is very little there and those soles are definitely thin enough for me. Thank you so much for the pic! You bag the TEs over the MP60s? If so, what led to that choice?

Thanks for the info. What do you think about the sole thickness?

Thank you very much. Very interested in the pictures!

I hit a couple of Cleveland 588 cbs today with both DG s300 and r300. I seemed to hit them both about the same so I'm leaning towards the DG S300 because I don't think there is a more respected shaft at such a reasonable price and I think stiff will be more consistent especially if I can increase my SS at all. Kenstl How thick are the soles on the TEs? I can't find a good picture of them anywhere but it looks like they may be a little thicker. Can you compare them to any other club from a major OEM or a blade? Would you be willing to post any pictures of your TEs? - Thanks

First of all thank WUtiger for the info on the maltby and GW companies. Good to here they are respected. Kensti I love mark's videos, especially his thoughts on shafts. I had a guy give me a really quick sort of fitting at the pga superstore yesterday and he said I was righ in between the regular and stiff shafts. He suggested the TT XP95 in R because it gave me a little bit of a draw while the ProjectX 5.5 gave me a little fade. I am not really sold on his evaluation since I actually felt better with the project x and my dispersion was actually tighter even though it was a little right. I have also thought about going with the FST shafts, pro or non-pro but I don't think the pga store has those and I have $150 in gift cards to the pga store. So I was thinking about buying the shafts and grips there and having them t the clubs together. Although I suppose I could use he gift cards on a new 3 wood lol. Did you have any issues going to a stiffer shaft? Do you know what your SS is with a 7/6 iron? My 7/6 iron SS is about 85-90 with a fairly quick transfer. Anyone have shaft suggestions based off that?

Thanks for the response. I have used a few mizuno and titleist iron sets but I have been wanting my first set of new golf irons and with my expensive taste for forged blades I had to look for a cheaper alternative to the big names. I wanted to buy from a respected company that wasn't a clone company. I thought that the Maltby irons looked as original as a forged cb could and have been excited about building a set with them. I have also heard that they are pretty forgiving for a forged cb which is good because honestly I have no business playing players irons, but I don't really have any business playing any irons lol. Glad to hear a positive review from someone who has a good amount of experience with them. What shafts did you use with them?

Thinking about putting together a set of irons with some heads from Maltby (golfworks). Does anyone here have experience with them? I am specifically looking into the Maltby TE forged irons. Also if you have any other component companies that around the same price as the golfworks stuff that would be appreciated too.

Driver: PING G20 w/ standard PING stiff Fairway: Titleist 910F w/ 82g Diamana stiff Hybrid: Mizuno Tzoid Fli-Hi 18* w/ DG S300 Irons: Titleist 690.MB. (3-PW) R flex Wedges: Callaway Vintage X Forged 53*, 58* Putter: Odyssey White Hot #1, 33in, Superstroke Ultraslim 1.0 Ball: Wilson Staff 50/50 Elite

http://www.cobragolf.com/amp-cell-pro-irons Cobra amp cell pro. Not much cheaper but basically the same club as the AP2 with a different name on it. I'm pretty sure Cobra used to be owned by Acushnet which is the company that owns/manufactures Titleist clubs.

That is not what people are saying. He has some logical thoughts such as that it would be detrimental to a players game if he had huge gaps between his wedges. All the people are saying on this thread are that there is different ways to shrink those gaps. Your buddy should buy irons that fill the distance gaps he wants them to fill. As the better player in your group was saying....your buddy doesn't need 10 clubs that hit the ball 200 yards and he would be better off having a few more options inside 150 that will help his stock shot land close. There are some very forgiving "players" irons that I believe would be great for your buddy. Just a couple examples are ap2s, mp54s, jpx 825 pro, callaway apex/apex pro, taylormade tour preferred cb/mc, i20s, and I'm sure there are many more. Your buddy definitely doesn't need extra distance so he should just concentrate on forgiveness and filling the gaps he needs to.

I have been playing some Titleist 690.MB irons 3-pw this season. I am an extremely high handicapper (if I cared to keep a handicap). I shoot in the upper 90s most of the time. These blades have not cost me any strokes, my scores have gone down if anything...however I would say my significantly lower rounds are due to much improved putting and drives that are playable. I do not find blades to be a killer, especially for high handicappers. Misses go straight still which may actually save me some shots. And I believe blades would not hurt any high handicappers due to the fact that we are so bad we will find many other ways to screw up our scorecard no matter what clubs we are using. And this study/article has some design flaws but it is more technical and unbiased than anything I have ever seen regarding the never ending blade vs cavity back debate. http://3jack.blogspot.com/2010/02/blades-vs-game-improvement-irons.html Please read this if you ever post about blades being an instant scorecard destroyer! According to this, it may be the opposite :O And to the OP. Glad you are enjoying your 68s. Those are sweet clubs and I'm super jealous. I can't wait till I run into a nice set of used mizuno blades for a good price. I feel the same way about playing blades....they are fun for me and fun is the only reason I play the game so I love my blades!

This is interesting! http://3jack.blogspot.com/2010/02/blades-vs-game-improvement-irons.html

This is with irons but it may be helpful for you.

I would say used for sure. I have been going through the same situation myself. I had a beginner no name set that I used for about 8 years when playing about once a month. Last year my driver head flew and that was the worse thing that could have ever happened to all aspects of my life except golf lol. I have been obsessed with the game since then and the equipment. Used clubs have been my choice. I am fortunate to have a golfsmith, golf galaxy, and pga tour superstore within 3 miles of my apartment right now so I can easily check for any new trade in they get. It is very fun to find a gem at a great price! Plus I have bought multiple iron sets from these stores, tried them for a bit, and then resold them on ebay....sometimes for a profit. If you buy a box set the resale value will be pretty much nothing. I have put together a bag except my 3 wood and hybrid for about 400 bucks. And it is only that high because I bought my driver new before I discovered the wonderful world of used clubs and it cost me 200 itself. I have never tried the online sites you mentioned but many people have given them good reviews. It is a little more risky, but I have also had good luck buying a few clubs off ebay.

I actually saw a set of Hogan Apex blade/cb combo set for around 100 bucks at Golfsmith once

Hey guys, I must have missed a lot of these responses when they were first posted somehow. I'm glad to see that people have posted their opinions and no rude comments have been posted. I actually have some personal experience to add to this thread now. After a long cold winter in Chicago, I could not resist the temptation to buy a new to me set of irons. And while battling with the blades vs GI clubs I ran across an excellent set of Titleist 690.mnb blades for a $110 so I couldn't pass them up. And so I have been gaming them for the past few weeks and probably have about 5-6 rounds in with them. And here is my experience with them compared to my old GI clubs....not much difference. haha. But seriously my scores have dropped some, shot my lowest score ever for 9 holes with a 43 yesterday, and all my other scores have been just a few strokes better than with my GI clubs. But my swing is much better this season and my putting has improved tremendously, so I don't think the irons are the reason for my lower scores but I also don't think they are hurting me. However this experience has led me to believe that a player's cb set would be the best set for me. Such sets I'm thinking would be AP2s, MP52,53,54, etc. I really feel better at address with a club that has a smaller head, thinner sole, and not too much offset but I definitely have the feeling that a little bit of help on mishits would be beneficial.

thanks mvmac

Does anyone have an info on how these three models compare? Looking to purchase a set of them used and I'm not sure if one would be better than the others.

Putters are an extremely personal club I think. When I started looking for a putter I just wanted something brand name because I had more trust in the big brands to make a quality club. That being said I did not think I needed to spend 100 dollars on a putter so I started looking at used ones. Found an odyssey white hot for a steal, cut it down to 33 in cause I like a short putter and slapped a super stroke grip on it all for under 30 bucks. So as for my advice, I would say look at used putters if you aren't someone who absolutely must have new. Putters usually don't take too much beating so they are usually in great shape used. And other than that I think it is mostly personal but I personally like simple anser style putters or something similar.

Just got a new set of these a couple days ago. I hit them for one round and although I don't think I had more than a few perfect strikes they still got me close to where I was aiming. Yesterday I hit them on the launch monitor and it seems like the spin numbers were much higher than the titleist mbs I was hitting next to them. This good for me since I am not worried about the ball spinning up to high but I would love a little extra stopping power on the greens. The only bad thing is that they are D3 swing weight. Which I still seemed to get about the same swing speed but they feel heavy. Just wondering if anyone else has/is playing these irons and what your thoughts are on them. Here is the link to the website: http://reidlockhartgolf.com/

Totally agree with this. Game improvement clubs won't make a big difference and I think the clubs you have are very nice and should suit you well

I actually like what you are doing here. The number of the club doesn't matter, all that really matters is the distance you hit it and that you hit it that distance consistently. And that you have clubs you can score with.