SpacklersEdge

I would like some clarification on this one....are you telling me that any 10 HDCPR averages LESS than 30 putts per round?

I had a hard time even reading this.

He really did look good today. Every time he was over one, it seemed you would have been shocked had he missed. He made a 30+ footer on one hole in particular, and he made it look like a 6 footer. Maybe he was motivated by one of the young guys setting the course record in the morning round?

My problem is not getting "back" to the left side, it's getting to the right side at all. My problem is that I was keeping my weight on my front foot too much, and then swinging steeply down and across.

Small amount of background. I have worked myself down into the 12-13 hdcp range. However, I had gotten to a point where I was getting as much out of a round score wise as possible with my swing. I was missing a lot of fairways, my normal shot would be pull fade, or even a pull slice. This type of shot I felt was not getting maximum distance. (This was worse with longer clubs, and not really an issue with wedges etc. due to the shorter club). I worked hard to correct this by trying to flatten my swing, as I knew I had a tendency to be over the top. So, I worked for the last month or so on taking a flatter backswing. When I would get it right, I could hit some good shots or drives, but many times it would be a dead pull, maybe 20-30 degrees left of target. So this week I went and had another lesson with my teacher. After taking some swings we looked at the video. The first thing that jumped out was my impact position. At impact, my right (I am right handed) foot was parallel to the target line. This is to say I was pivoting this foot 90 degrees by impact. So, what my teacher pointed out was that even though I was trying to flatten my swing by working on my backswing, the real problem was that I never got any weight to my right side/foot during the backswing at all, and my first move would be to throw my right shoulder around and pivot. My teacher worked with me and I ended up swinging about 60% during my practice swings, thinking only of getting the weight to my right side during the backswing, and then back to the left through the swing. This was veery difficult for me at first and I had a tendency to fall forward. Also, it felt like I was swinging like an old man, and I would never be able to hit the ball as hard as I would like. After some time of focusing only on weight shift, I hit a few balls. To my surprise, the ball was going as far as my usual drives, but with a much lower ball flight. Also, they were not fading or slicing, but flying much straighter, but sometimes just pushed. When we looked at these new swings, I was surprised at how much better they looked. The pivot was gone, and my overall balance and finish position is much better. Also, the best part was that my DOWNSWING was now flatter, and was not across the ball. It was really revealing that working to get my backswing flatter really did nothing to flatten the downswing for me (classic over the top I know!). So now I have played two rounds working on this, and here is what I would like help with. 1. I am hitting a lot of balls off the toe of the club now, this occurs with every club from driver to wedges. What can I do to fix this issue, or why is this now happening? 2. If I move closer to the ball fix issue #1, I end up hitting behind the ball. This is something I never did before. I know both of these issues are related to the weight shift, so what I am really looking for is any videos or especially drills I can work on related to weight shift. I need to engrain into my brain what the correct shift and subsequent finish position should feel like. I know what is should LOOK like, but making my brain do that is not easy. I need to FEEL it first with some sort of drills. TIA!!

Timastyle, for sure mention the video. Like TNZ says, it's a big help, at least for me. If you are anything like me, what you "feel" when you swing, or what you think you are doing is many times not right. With the video, you will know what you want it to look like, or what it should look like. So, you keep trying until you see one that is correct, and you are then able to remember what is ACTUALLY feels like to do that motion or thought.

Good, I'm glad I am not the only one. Must be something those darn kids are doing these days....and I am not even that old!

I understand what you're saying about traffic etc. If I were you though, if you felt even a little uncomfortable, or it wasn't what you expected, find someone else. Maybe ask your golfing buddies if they suggest anyone, ask around at work, neighbors? I left my last lesson so happy, it's like a breakthrough everytime I go, and I just know it is helping me to get better. Maybe this will help? http://www.playgolfamerica.com/index...arch&zip;=90254

This entire thread baffles me. Why would someone take MP67's, one of the sexiest looking clubs in my opinion and paint the numbers red like some cheap prostitute?

I am sure Trump National will be $$$$$. Let me try and help you... http://www.golfthelakes.com/lessons/ -- offers video!! http://www.pvgc.com/lessons.htm -- is this close to you? I did a quick search on yahoo local. GOOD GOD are there a lot of shops, driving ranges and courses in CA!!!! I need to move!!!

I had never heard of him until this post. Where did you read that about him being 0 from both sides? That is just incredible.

I am in the Chicago Suburbs. This is at a park district owned course, but the teacher is good. I just checked the site, and it lists it as 45 per lesson, but when you buy in bulk it's cheaper!

Mine are 4 for $150, so I guess 37.50 each, and last about an hour. I always get balls before hand to warm up, and usually 2 buckets after to practice, and these are all free. The video is really the key for me, I don't think I could go to a lesson without it now, would be a MUCH slower process. It's good to look at your old swings on occasion too, it will remind you what your old issues were should you start having problems on the course.

How much did this lesson cost? The reason I ask...I had a lesson today too, my 4th or 5th this season. When I have a lesson it is me and my guy one-on-one. He has a camera and can record my swings and watch them back on the laptop frame by frame right there one the range (both down the line and face on). So, he sees me hit live and then on the video also. He uses the video to show me some other peoples swings to point out what it is I am doing, then he helps me to "learn" how it should be. And we go back and forth hitting real balls off of grass (a lesson on mats?!?) and recording every swing should we choose to look at it. The lesson you described sounds like a VERY beginners group type of lesson.

I think you missed my point, I never said I was going to do that. I am simply asking if people who do put a lot of spin on shorter and full shots notice a loss in the amount of spin after time, and what that amount of time is.

I don't doubt that some do it, like Phil, he can spin a 5 foot shot. But most probably don't. I have heard of these sharpening tools, but phyicall speaking the only way to sharpen your groove would be to remove some material (small amount sure), which makes the groove even bigger. Eventually you will not be able to do it anymore and I always assumed this was not really legal either, maybe some here have info on this?

I had a lesson today, and on a side note I mentioned how last yeaar I was able to get some spin on chips/pitches, and would be able to back the ball up on occasion, and how this year I am not able to do that too much. My teacher said that while the ball being used will be a factor, it is mostly based on how new your wedges are. I bought them last year, when I was spinning the ball. He said the tour pros probably changes wedges every two weeks or so, maybe some do it more often. Do you feel his information was correct? How often are you changing wedges (expensive!)? How much play do your wedges get before you notice this drop in performance.

Changing this topic back to a helpful one... I think having a neutral grip will allow you to...in the LONG run...learn to have a neutral swing. What I mean is you will be able to draw the ball, and fade the ball with a neutral grip when that shot is needed. With a stong grip you may have trouble hitting a controllable fade, or even worse a controllable draw. If you try to draw with a grip that is too strong you may end up shutting the face down so much it turns out to be a low hook instead of a nice high controlled draw. Also, with a strong grip you may have trouble fading the ball at all.

I don't understand this entire thread, and the above post. If you are hitting them straight with a strong grip, or as you said "right at the pin", then why are you taking lessons? If you are hitting it "right at the pin" with this grip, then you should be lower than a 36. Are you suffering from lack of distance? Short game? I guess I am asking what is the main problem you had with this strong grip that made you go take a lesson?

I saw a link to Ian Poulters Twitter feed in another post. Does anyone know of any other guys posting to twitter from the tour?

I currently play with irons 3 (20*) and up. I also carry a 3w(15*) and a 5w(18*). I rarely hit a 3I. I would opt for the 5W which I can hit pretty well, and I have gotten decent at open it up a bit to shorten the flight while at the same time hitting it higher. Sometimes when I am in the rough though, with 200+ to go this is not the best club to hit. So my question is, if I were to get a hybrid to replace the 3iron, what degree would I be looking for? What I mean is what degree would replace a 20* 3 iron distance wise? And would a hybrid be easier to hit from the rough? I guess what I am getting at is would it be pointless to have a 5w and a hybrid? Or would it be better to just drop the 5w, and get a hybrid? But in that case I still have the 3i which i almost never use.

From what I know, it is intended to get the head "behind" the shaft. This give you a split second long to square it up before it hits the ball. If someone who has been playing clubs with 0 offset were to pick up some Game Improvement irons with a lot of offset, they would probably hit large draws or pulls. It is mostly intended for beginners who tend to slice/push, and should allow them more time to square the clubhead before impact.

Now that's funny. I live real close to Elgin, and I would never play that course! I have never played it to date, and I never will. PM me if you want some better suggestions in that area.

BUMP for an answer hopefully.

I am not sure what most of this means. I was planning to buy a set of 13 .600 Grips, and re-grip every club I play with. Is that going to work? Where can I find what size my current shafts are? I am assuming that a .60 Grip will fit on most any club, but might need a little extra tape to remain tight on a .58 shaft?