mjgraniero

I've been playing the Titleist 909H, 21 degree, Diamana shaft this year and absolutely love it. The ball gets up quickly and levels off, no balooning. It has a nice feel at impact and cuts through the rough pretty well. My league partner has the TM Raylor which he loves. He hits it well from the rough and fairway. The only thing I noticed is that he has a draw to serious hook most of the time while he hits a slight fade with most of his other clubs.

Just a warning to everyone out there to buy from a reputable vendor. Our local golf shop had a guy come in after purchasing a brand new set of AP2's online for $499 only to find out the clubs were counterfeit. Under $500 seems "too good to be true" for a new set. Then again maybe I'm just not looking in the right places.

Mizuno T-Zoid Pros that I owned back in the '90s. My AP2's are as close as I've been able to get to the same feel without sacrificing some forgiveness. Unfortunately my game isn't what it used to be.

I know there's a lot of knowledge about bags on this forum so I'm asking for help/suggestions to replace my BagBoy Clip-Lok. What I dont like about the cliplok is the clubs aren't tiered from back to front, making it a nuisance to pull clubs that are near the back (when riding). The cart canopy/rain shield and head covers of other clubs always gets in the way. Here's what I'm looking for: Full length dividers, more than three sections Putter tube (no exterior clips) A set-up that will reduce bag chatter Stand bags considered but would prefer a cart bag. Thanks in advance for all recommendations.

I'll cast a vote for the Lamkin Torsion Control. Awesome tackiness and feel. The only issue I found is they wear faster because they are soft.

I've got six words for you: Tommy Armour Titanium Tommy Gun Driver Everything about this driver was just wrong!

Your other option is to get a different bag. Check out BagBoy bags that hace the clip-Lok feature. The clubs don't make contact with each other as much so you wouldn't need the iron covers. You could also try threading a towel or two among the oring heads.

Ryo- I can answer that for you. Go see a clubfitter! That's about all the input I can give after all our back and forth. Confusing as hell but I think it all depends on what point of view you're taking. Ultimately it sounds like you should add the inch to the shaft then get fitted for the lie. Most fitters can adjust the lie for you on the spot.

$300 for my Scotty Fastback (don't trust eBay enough to try buying from a non-authorized retailer), $140 for my Odyssey Marksman, $80 for my Odyssey Dual Force (1990's) and $40 for my Titleist Bullseye (wish I still had it)

I agree. I was calling the resulting lie to be too upright. Ryo was, I believe, stating the need for a flat lie. I think we both had the same idea in mind. I also agree with your later statement. I was approaching it from the point of view of an individual holding a longer club than needed.. Thanks for chiming in!

I think I know where we're getting our "lines crossed." You're right that throughout the set manufacturers set the lie flatter as the shaft gets longer. My point is that if you take a 6 iron and add length, the manufacturer won't adjust the lie to compensate, therefore the lie actually becomes upright. This would be the case throughout the set because the manufacturer won't adjust the lie based on the added length of the whole set. They use the same standard lie regardless. So if my 9 iron has 64 deg lie and I add four inches to the shaft, the toe will be pointing more up at address and the club is likely to hit heel first when I swing, thereby causing a draw/hook. If a fitter measures you on a standard length shaft and says you need 2 deg up then says you need a two inch longer shaft, that's incorrect. The lie should be measured once the proper club length is determined and the lie measured on a club of that length. When a longer club is used an upright lie may not be needed because the extra length may compensate.

Wish I had a website or more factual evidence but I believe I'm right. Flat and upright aren't the angle of the shaft if that's what you were thinking. Try this- Take a 12" dowell and attach it to the end of your club. Grip the club at the grip, then slide your hands off the grip and onto the dowell. The further the clubhead gets from you the higher the toe will be, hence, a more upright lie. You can also look at the club specs for the titleist AP2 (or any other irons for that matter) http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/AP2.asp?bhcp=1 You'll see the lie is flatter (lower in degrees) in the long irons than the short irons due to the length of the shafts.

Just curious but did he measure your lie angle after giving you a +1.5" longer club to swing? I know a lot of fitters don't do that and the upright lie that's measured only applies to the shorter club used during the fitting session. It would be nice to know some fitters are doing it the right way.

Have you tried the Scotty Squareback? It comes in lefty , unlike the fastback.

Interesting, he's 6'8" from the side mugshot but only 6'7" from the front. Does he get taller or shorter when he has his back to you? Side note: Per my Pro, for every 1/2 inch longer the club the lie goes up one degree. So, if I had standard lie clubs but added one inch, it would push the lie to 1 deg up. If he's at a 2 or 3 inch longer shaft he may not need the upright lie. Just a thought. Maybe some of the more experienced clubmakers/fitters can chime in on this.

His old clubs were slingshots (not the current model). The fitting center was Nike so I imagine they set him up with slingshots again or the VR full cavity.

I don't use covers any more but I have to agree with you on this one. When I had used them: Pull the club then, as I'm walking to my ball to line up the shot, I put the cover in my pocket. After the shot I would wipe the club and slide the cover back on. The only addition to the time is sliding the cover on after wiping which, since it is in my pocket, takes only a second. Granted there are players who will fiddle with covers and take a ton of time, but these are the same players who will take extra time fiddling with their driver cover, putter cover, etc as well as the rest of their equipment. A lack of awareness of their own pace of play makes them slow players, not the iron covers themselves.

Not covers. I was referring to the irons being fine without covers if given reasonable care. The worst damage comes from clubs banging around on the back of a riding cart. Walking and pull carts aren't as harsh on clubs in my opinion. Unfortunately, due to a knee surgery and a partial achilles tear I am unable to walk a full round. Before I bought the clip lok bag I would just slide a towel in and around some of the irons. It worked fine.

Not an overstatement at all.. It depends on how well cared for the clubs are. I've seen some forged irons that had so many dings that they looked like a little hammer was taken to them, repeatedly, for years. And I'm talking about the entire clubhead, not the face. I've never had that problem because I've always taken care of my clubs. For those that don't, forged irons will get beat up pretty bad. That's why I said "...if not given some reasonable care."

I assumed people would know which ball I was talking about when I typed ProV (meaning ProV1). The "tour model" was a reference to the B330. My fault for not putting the B330 in there. I was thinking faster than I could type.

I had the same problem with my T-Zoid Pros back in the 1990's. Once I found out it was the iron covers I ditched them and decided to use towels to protect them. For my AP2's I didn't even consider iron covers, I bought a clip-lok bag which does a good job of limiting the amount of abuse they take from riding in a cart.

First, as far as the Bridgestone models we're talking about all being tour models I think you're trying to read too much into my post. I was simply referring to the B330 model only and chose to express it that way. Second, I wasn't calling the ProV a tour model, hence the comma. I was referring to the bridgestone B330 (tour). Since you've had so much trouble understanding my posts to begin with I can understand why you would assume I was calling the ProV a tour model. My fault for not saying Tour B330. Third, you must work for bridgestone since you're so offended that I didn't like the Tour B330S (added the 'tour' just for you). I can respect the fact that you like this ball but why call me out for not liking it? Also, to say you don't think I know why I like one ball over another is just another way for you to try to put me down, rather than foster a discussion about preferences. Do you really think I care what you think about my ball preference? Do you have a preference for one ball over another? Since many premium balls are so close performance wise, why would you choose to play the Tour B330S (once again, added the 'tour' just for you) if you could afford it? Should I criticize you for liking that ball over the others? If you were really interested in what I thought about the B330S compared to the others you would have/could have asked. Instead you decided to start some sort of message board pissing match. Really, this conversation is getting ridiculous. Good luck to you and your equipment of choices.

No new revelation there. I'm talking about the B330 Tour ball, otherwise I would have called it the B330S. The RX is a tour version too. Tour version or not there is a difference between the S, RX and the 330 tour models otherwise they wouldn't make them. As far as not liking the ball, why is that so hard to believe? Everyone has a preference to the type of ball they play. I didn't like it when compared to the ProV, Tour model or the Callaway, all of which I've played. I thought my post was pretty much to the point and not vague. Sorry you were confused.

I received a dozen B330S for xmas and had a chance to use them in Florida a few weeks ago. To be honest I wasn't impressed. I like the B330 Tour and will use that as a back-up if I cant get my hands on some ProV1's. The tour model just performs better than the S. My top 3 are the ProV1, Callaway Tour-i and the Bridgestone B330 Tour

Skip- It may not seem broke but if you're continually having to compensate, it is broke and you're putting a band aid on it by compensating. It's in your best interest to get the right clubs and start grooving a proper swing for the long haul. You'll benefit in the long run. I see from some of your later posts that you started seeing some better shots as you've worked with the clubs. It'll take some time, patience and a shoulder injury or two but it will come. Good luck!