proff49

Played several rounds with a couple Bridgestone j36 hybrids and loved them. Problem is I don't know what lofts to get. My irons are Mizuno MP-57's and the 5 iron is 27*. The Bridgestone hybrids I tried were 19* and 22*. Should I stick with these and have a 5* gap or get the 22* and 25* and have a 2* gap? I easily hit the Bridgestones farther than my current TM hybrids which are the same lofts as the ones I tried.

I play in the 90's, usually mid to high. About a month ago I traded my TM Burner Plus irons for a set of 57's and don't regret it one bit; probably one of the best decisions I've made. I may be the exception instead of the rule but my mis-hits aren't any worse than with the TM's. The 57's seem to have made my game more consistent. My highs and lows are much closer to my average score than with the other clubs. It probably took me about 2 months to decide to trade. Everything I had read said the 57's were players irons. I'm sure glad I decided to go against everything I read and go with what I liked.

"The process that is used to make the club has no effect whatsoever on how soft the club feels." The process can have a lot to do with the hardness or softness of steel. You can take the same metal and apply different processes to it and you will have different degrees of hardness. This is done all the time in different manufacturing processes.

I just switched from Taylormade Burner Plus irons (sgi I believe) to MP-57's about a week and a half ago. My game hasn't suffered at all and may have become a little more consistent. Not better just more consistent. My mis-hits aren't any worse than with the TM's. When hit perfect I can hardly feel the ball come off the face. I'm sure everyone would have different results but I am glad I made the switch.

I got a Rife 2-bar hybrid last fall and love it. Had an Odyssey 2-ball before and my putting instantly improved after switching. To me the feel is so much better. I installed an oversized Winn grip before I ever used it only because I like larger putter grips. The stock grip felt good, just too small for me. I do like the new black version a little better but not enough to spend the money to switch. I see myself keeping this putter for a long time.

That's what I was thinking but I'd still like to hit them before I spend $300 and find I got the wrong one.

Guess I really need to hit them both before I buy something. Just hate to make a 1-2 hour drive to hit a couple clubs. My swing speed is also in the mid 90's. Most of the time I don't have any trouble getting my driver up but everything else is usually a line shot. Cutting the ball isn't a problem for me. My normal shot is nice draw. Every now and then it turns into a nasty snap hook that might go 75 yards. I currently have a stiff shaft in my driver and regular shafts in everything else.

Thanks for the info.

Maybe a dumb question but what is meant by the low-mid and mid-high flex point?

I have a pw(45*), aw(50*), 54*, and a 60*(getting bent to a 58*) and am very happy. My actual hp is around 27 and having 4 wedges lets me have more full swing wedge shots, which I think helps me a lot. I don't to too bad with the 60* but I do have to keep practicing with it, probably more than any other club. I also don't have an arsenal of shots with it; it's either a smooth, full swing or a little chip if I don't have much green. Unless I completely misjudge the distance having 4 wedges keeps my misses closer to the flag.

I'm using Golfcard from the app store and really like it. It tracks just about everything; GIR, tee club, putts, bunker shots, penalty shots, and more. You can also store different courses and players plus keep your handicap. I think it was only about $6.99.

I've found a used matching "A" wedge and it is 50* This and couple Bridgestone wedges may be the way to go. I could probably get by with the gaps this would leave and not have any problems. I am going to talk to the local club builder about the bounce of bent clubs. Changing the bounce of longer clubs might not make much of a difference but I can see how changing it on some, if not most, wedges might not be a good thing. Thanks for bringing this to my attention before I ruined some good clubs.

Now I understand. My problem is an 11* gap between my pw and sw. My pw is only 45*. I've found some wedges that I like and hit very well but they only go down to 52. I'm thinking of having my 7,8, and 9 weakened 2* and having the pw weakened by 1*. This will allow me to get a 52*, 54* and 60* and have the 52* and possibley the 60* strengthened by 2*. This will give me a 4* gap between everything from my 7 up except between my 9 to pw, which will be 5*. Hope all this makes sense. I could hunt for wedges from othe manufacturers but I won't have the oppertunity to play them on the course like I do these. Plus, I can get these wedges at about a 45% discount. I don't mind taking some of the savings and having it put into haveing some lofts changed if it isn't going to hurt the clubs any.

All I'm wanting to do is weaken or strengthen some irons and wedges to get a more usable gap between my clubs. Why would I need to have the lie angle checked for that. I'm not sure my swing is where it needs to be for a fitting. I'm working on it and hopefully sometime next year I will be comfortable getting a full fitting. For now I would just like to have the loft adjusted to bring some gaps closer together.

If you have the loft of irons and wedges changed does it have to be checked or done again every-so-often? Also, what is the most increase or decrease a club should be bent?

The only reason I'm against a pw+3 wedge set-up is the price. It seems like most quality wedges are around $100+. I can get the Bridgestone liquid copper wedges for $65 each. They are usually $109.99 at most golf shops. Problem is they only go down to 52*. Plus, I've been able to play with the liquid coppers on the course and hit them very well. There are probably other wedges out there that I can hit just as well but playing them on a course before buying them just isn't an option. Guess I could get a 52* liquid copper bent to 50* and get a 54* and 58*. This would still be cheaper than most other wedges in this range.

Weakening the pw a couple degrees would be better than strengthing the g/a couple?

I have a set of Taylormade Burner plus irons and the pw is only 45*. This leaves an 11* gap between my pw and sw. What wedges should I get to fill this gap. I don't hit a 60* very well at all so I don't want to go any higher than 58*. Also, what is the difference between a cnc milled face and one that isn't? I really like the Bridgestone west coast design wedges. The liquid copper model has a milled face but the satin doesn't. The price for both is the same so I was wondering if one is better than the other. I've played the liquid coppers (hit them really good) but not the satin.

I tried out a set of Taylormade CGB Max irons with reg flex black steel shafts and loved them. I have since found a set (cheaper) with Rifle Project "X" 5.5 firm flex shafts. Has anyone compared the two or have any experience with the 5.5 shafts. The clubs with the 5.5 shafts have to be ordered so I can't try them. Thanks.

Without driving several hours, the "fitted" clubs I have available are component clubs from the website in my first post. They deal in McGregor, Srixon, Wishon, Infiniti, Swing Science, SMT, and Eidolon. Basically my choices are a fitted set from them or a brand name set off the shelf. A fitted set from one of these would be better than an off the shelf set? Right now, if I were to go this route, I would probably go with Wishon because I have been able to find more info on them than the others. Thanks, TC

I'll give you a little history first. I started playing golf again earlier this year after about a 6 year layoff. I have no idea what my handicap is but I play most courses between 105 and 120. My clubs are; 9* Tour Edge Geomax driver, 8* Calloway 454 driver, Tour Edge Bazooka QL hybrids (3-pw), Tour Edge sand wedge, and an Odyssey center shafted two ball putter w/ Super Grip (I believe that is the name). I probably hit the TE driver farther but I've developed a bad hook and hit the 454 straighter. I'd say I make solid contact about 50% of the time with the long to mid irons. Not saying it goes where I intended, just solid contact. The other 50% of the time I hit it thick, thin, off the toe, etc,etc.... Usually make good contact with short irons and wedges but tend to pull them left. Over the last few weeks I've been reading alot about custom clubs and being fitted. After reading some articles I'm completely sold on the idea. Then I'll read another and have seriouse doubts. There is only one fitter/builder within a reasonable driving distance. Here is a link to their website if anyone would like to check them out and give me some feedback. http://www.mcgolf.net/ I had looked at their Tom Wishon line mainly. My questions are: 1. Do you think custom fitted clubs will make a noticable difference in my game? 2. Are component clubs like Tom Wishon (and others on the above site) as good in quality as pro-line clubs? For woods, irons, and putter it looks like it will be at least $900+. I was looking at a new set of Big Bertha irons for $599. I don't want to spend what will probably end up well over a grand if the quality isn't there. I'm fairly sure that custom fitted clubs would help my game (a little) but I have no idea to what degree. If anyone has any experience with any of the component clubs on the above site and/or custom fitting, you input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, TC

I'll be 38 the end of the month.

Gotta go with Tiger. Don't remember much about Jack.

Been a firefighter for almost 10 years.